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In the Tail of the Peacock

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402 pages
The Project Gutenberg EBook of In the Tail of the Peacock, by Isabel SavoryThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and withalmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away orre-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License includedwith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.orgTitle: In the Tail of the PeacockAuthor: Isabel SavoryRelease Date: February 7, 2009 [EBook #28016]Language: English*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE TAIL OF THE PEACOCK ***Produced by Michael Ciesielski, the Project GutenbergOnline Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.netand the booksmiths at http://www.eBookForge.netIN THE TAIL OF THE PEACOCKBy ISABEL SAVORY.Author of "A Sportswoman in India" WITH 48 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHSAND A PHOTOGRAVURE PORTRAIT "The Earth is a peacock: Morocco is the tail of it"Moorish Proverb❦❦ London: HUTCHINSON & CO.Paternoster Row    ❧    ❧   1903 Isabel SavoryIsabel Savory PRINTED BYHAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD.,LONDON AND AYLESBURY PREFACEThis book contains no thrilling adventures, chronicles, no days devoted to sport. It will probably interest only thoseminds which are content with "the C Major of this life," and which find in other than scenes of peril and excitement theirhearts' desire.Such as care to wander through its pages must have learnt to enjoy idleness, nor find weeks spent beneath the sunand stars too long—that is to say, the ...
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The Project Gutenberg EBook of In the Tail of the
Peacock, by Isabel Savory
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no
cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it,
give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg
License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: In the Tail of the Peacock
Author: Isabel Savory
Release Date: February 7, 2009 [EBook #28016]
Language: English
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK
IN THE TAIL OF THE PEACOCK ***
Produced by Michael Ciesielski, the Project Gutenberg
Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net
and the booksmiths at http://www.eBookForge.netIN THE TAIL OF THE
PEACOCK
By ISABEL SAVORY.
Author of "A Sportswoman in India"


WITH 48 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
AND A PHOTOGRAVURE PORTRAIT


"The Earth is a peacock: Morocco is the tail of it"
Moorish Proverb


London: HUTCHINSON & CO.
Paternoster Row       ❧       ❧      1903


Isabel Savory
Isabel Savory

PRINTED BY
HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD.,
LONDON AND AYLESBURY

PREFACE
This book contains no thrilling adventures, chronicles,
no days devoted to sport. It will probably interest only
those minds which are content with "the C Major of
this life," and which find in other than scenes of periland excitement their hearts' desire.
Such as care to wander through its pages must have
learnt to enjoy idleness, nor find weeks spent beneath
the sun and stars too long—that is to say, the
fascination of a wandering, irresponsible life should be
known to them: waste and solitary places must not
appal, nor trifling incident weary, while human natures
remotely removed from their own, alternately delight
and repel. Those who understand not these things, will
find but a dull chronicle within the following pages.
If to live is to know more, and to know more only to
love more, the least eventful day may possess a
minimum of value, and even quiet monotones and
grey vistas be found and lost in a glamour born of
themselves.
In this loud and insistent world the silent places are
often overlooked, and yet they are never empty.
ISABEL SAVORY.
Westfield Old Hall,
   East Dereham.
       February, 1903.

CONTENTS
Page
Ch
a Tangier—Country People—The Pilgrimage to
p Mecca—Moorish Prisons—We Ride to Cape
t Spartel—Decide to Leave Tangier and Push
e Inland
r
I 1
C
h
a
Camp Outfit—A Night at a Caravanserai—Te
p
tuan—The British Vice-Consul—Moorish Sho
t
ps—We Visit a Moorish House and Family
e
r
II 27
C
h
a Difficulties of "Lodgings" in Morocco—A Spa
p nish Fonda—A Moorish Tea Party—Poison i
t n the Cup—Slaves in Morocco—El Doollah—
e Moorish Cemetery—Ride to Semsar—Shopp
r ing in Tetuan—Provisions in the City
II
I 63
C
h
a The Fast of Rámadhan—Mohammed—His Li
p fe and Influence—The Flood at Saffi—A Wal
t k Outside Tetuan—The French Consul's Gar
e den-House—Jews in Morocco—European Pr
r otection
I
V 97C
h Plans for Christmas at Gibraltar—A Rough N
a ight—The Steamer which would not Wait—A
p n Ignominious Return to Tetuan—A Rascally
t Jew—The Aborigines and the Present Occup
e ants of Morocco—The Sultan, Court, Govern
r ment, and Moorish Army
V 121
C
h
We Look Over a Moorish Courtyard House w
a
ith a View to Taking It—We Rent Jinan Doler
p
o in Spite of Opposition—An Englishman Mur
t
dered—Our Garden-House—The Idiosyncra
e
sies of Moorish Servants—A Native Guard—
r
The Riff Country
V
I 153
C
h
a Country People Fording the River—We Call
p on Ci Hamed Ghralmia—An Expedition acros
t s the River in Search of the Blue Pool—Moor
e ish Belief in Ginns—The Basha—Powder Pla
r y—Tetuan Prison
V
II 181
C
h
a
p
Missionaries at Tetuan—Poisoning in Morocc
t
o—Fatima's Reception—Divorce—An Expedi
e
tion into the Anjeras—An Emerald Oasis
r V
II
I 217
C
h
a We Leave Tetuan—A Wet Night under the St
p ars—S`lam Deserts Us—We Sail for Mogado
t r—The Palm-Tree House—Sus and Wadnoo 249
e n Countries—The Sahara—The Atlas Mount
r ains
I
X
C
h
a On the March Once More—Buying Mules—A
p Bad Road—First Camp—Argan-Trees—Coo
t s-Coosoo—A Terrible Night—Doctoring the K
e haylifa—Roughing it Under Canvas
r
X 281
C
h
a
A Parting Mona—Fording Sheshaoua River
p
—Jars of Food—First Sight of Marrakesh—A
t
Perilous Crossing—Ride into Marrakesh—Th
e
e Slave Market
r
X
I 311
C
h
a The Thursday Market—We Might have gone p to Glaouia—Leave Marrakesh and set out on
t Our Last March for the Coast—Flowers in M
e orocco—On the Wrong Trail—Arab Tents—
r Good-Bye to El Moghreb
X
II 339

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Except where otherwise stated, the Illustrations are
from photographs by ROSE A. BAINBRIDGE.
Page
Frontis
Photogravure Portrait
piece
The Road to Fez 6
R. on a Pack 12
Two Sheikhs 18
Tangier 24
Photo by A. Cavi
Tetuan 30
lla, Tangier.
Ourselves and Baggage 34
Clouds Over Tetuan 44
Photo by A. Cavi
Alarbi Abresha's House 54
lla, Tangier.
Our Camp Outside Tetuan 60A Veiled Figure Outside the
66
Gate
A Mohammedan Cemetery 80
Out Shopping 90
Shops in Tetuan 94
A Cluster of Country Wome
100
n
Photo by A. Cavi
A Typical Moorish Street 108
lla, Tangier.
A Street in the Jews' Quart Photo by A. Cavi
116
er, Tetuan lla, Tangier.
Refuse Going Out of Tetua
124
n
A Moorish Prison Gate 130
Photo by A. Cavi
A Peep of Tetuan 138
lla, Tangier.
A Saint-House, Tetuan 148
Jinan Dolero 158
Our Servants, S`lam and T
164
ahara
Two Women from the Riff
172
Country
Selling Earthenware Pots 178
A Ferry-Boat on Market Da
184
y
The Author Fording the Wa
188
d-el-Martine
The Basha Going to Pray 198

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