A Wanderer in Venice

E. V. (Edward Verrall) Lucas

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• Publié par: endrio
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 15
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 3 Mo

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Title: A Wanderer in Venice
Author: E.V. Lucas
Illustrator: Harry Morley
Release Date: September 17, 2005 [EBook #16705]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WANDERER IN VENICE ***
Produced by Pilar Somoza and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.netTHE GRAND CANAL FROM THE STEPS OF S. MARIA DELLA SALUTE
A WANDERER IN
VENICE
BY
E.V. LUCAS
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
HARRY MORLEY
AND THIRTY-TWO PHOTOGRAPHS FROM PAINTINGS AND A MAP
New YorkTHE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1914
All rights reserved
COPYRIGHT, 1914,
BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1914.
Norwood Press:
Berwick & Smith Co., Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
"In like manner I say, that had there bin an offer made unto me
before I took my journey to Venice, eyther that foure of the richest
manors of Somerset-shire (wherein I was borne) should be gratis
bestowed upon me if I never saw Venice, or neither of them if I
should see it; although certainly these manors would do me much
more good in respect of a state of livelyhood to live in the world
than the sight of Venice, yet notwithstanding I will ever say while Ilive, that the sight of Venice and her resplendent beauty,
antiquities, and monuments, hath by many degrees more contented
my minde, and satisfied my desires, than those foure Lordships
could possibly have done."—THOMAS CORYAT.
Map: A Bird's Eye View Of Venice
PREFACE
For a detailed guide to Venice the reader must go elsewhere; all that I
have done is invariably to mention those things that have most interested me,
and, in the hope of being a useful companion, often a few more. But my chief
wish (as always in this series) has been to create a taste.
For the history of Venice the reader must also go elsewhere, yet for the
sake of clarity a little history has found its way even into these pages. To go to
Venice without first knowing her story is a mistake, and doubly foolish because
the city has been peculiarly fortunate in her chroniclers and eulogists. Mr. H.F.
Brown stands first among the living, as Ruskin among the dead; but Ruskin is
for the student patient under chastisement, whereas Mr. Brown's serenely
human pages are for all. Of Mr. Howells' Venetian Life I have spoken more than
once in this book; its truth and vivacity are a proof of how little the central
Venice has altered, no matter what changes there may have been in
government or how often campanili fall. The late Col. Hugh Douglas's Venice
on Foot, if conscientiously followed, is such a key to a treasury of interest as no
other city has ever possessed. To Mrs. Audrey Richardson's Doges of Venice I
am greatly indebted, and Herr Baedeker has been here as elsewhere (in the
Arab idiom) my father and my mother.
E.V.L.
June, 1914.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Preface VII
CHAPTER I
The Bride of the Adriatic 1
CHAPTER II
S. Mark's. I: The Exterior 6CHAPTER III
S. Mark's. II: The Interior 17
CHAPTER IV
The Piazza and the Campanile 31
CHAPTER V
The Doges' Palace. I: The Interior 46
CHAPTER VI
The Doges' Palace. II: The Exterior 65
CHAPTER VII
The Piazzetta 78
CHAPTER VIII
The Grand Canal. I: From the Dogana to the Palazzo 91
Rezzonico, Looking to the Left
CHAPTER IX
The Grand Canal. II: Browning and Wagner 100
CHAPTER X
The Grand Canal. III: From the Rio Foscari to S. Simeone, 110
Looking to the Left
CHAPTER XI
The Grand Canal. IV: From the Station to the Mocenigo 119
Palace, Looking to the Left
CHAPTER XII
The Grand Canal. V: Byron in Venice 130
CHAPTER XIII
The Grand Canal. VI: From the Mocenigo Palace to the 143
Molo, Looking to the Left
CHAPTER XIV
Island Afternoons' Entertainments. I: Murano, Burano and 151
Torcello
CHAPTER XV
On Foot. I: From the Piazza to San Stefano 162
CHAPTER XVI
The Accademia. I: Titian, Tintoretto, and Paul Veronese 168
CHAPTER XVII
The Accademia. II: The Santa Croce Miracles and 179
Carpaccio
CHAPTER XVIII
The Accademia. III: Giovanni Bellini and the Later Painters 187CHAPTER XIX
The Canale di S. Marco and S. Giorgio Maggiore 195
CHAPTER XX
On Foot. II: Three Churches and Carpaccio again 206
CHAPTER XXI
On Foot. III: The Merceria and the Rialto 217
CHAPTER XXII
S. Rocco and Tintoretto 231
CHAPTER XXIII
The Frari and Titian 245
CHAPTER XXIV
Ss. Giovanni E Paolo 254
CHAPTER XXV
S. Elena and the Lido 263
CHAPTER XXVI
On Foot. IV: From the Dogan to S. Sebastiano 270
CHAPTER XXVII
Churches Here and There 279
CHAPTER XXVIII
Giorgione 287
CHAPTER XXIX
Island Afternoons' Entertainments. II: S. Lazzaro and 299
Chioggia
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
The Grand Canal from the Steps of S. Maria Della Frontispiece
Salute
S. Mark's from the Piazza. The Merceria Clock Facing page 10
on the Left
The Campanile and the Piazza from Cook's corner " 28
The corner of the Old Library and the Doges' Palace " 54
The Ponte di Paglia and the Bridge of Sighs, with a " 66
corner of the Doges' Palace and the Prison
The Dogana (with S. Giorgio Maggiore just visible) " 88
Doorway of S. Maria della Salute " 112
The Rialto Bridge from the Palazzo dei Dieci Savii " 126The Rio Torreselle and back of the Palazzo Dario " 152
Traghetto of S. Zobenigo, Grand Canal " 198
The Grand Canal, Showing S. Maria della Salute " 218
S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari " 228
The Colleoni Statue and Ss. Giovanni e Paolo " 240
The Palazzo Pesaro (Orfei), Campo S. Benedetto " " 276
The Armenian Monastery and the Lagoon " 300
View from the Dogana At Night " 308
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN MONOTONE
ONE OF THE NOAH MOSAICS. In the Atrium of S. Facing page 18
Mark's
From a Photograph by Naya.
THE PRESENTATION. From the Painting by Titian in the " 36
Accademia
From a Photograph by Brogi.
BACCHUS AND ARIADNE. From the Painting by Tintoretto in " 48
the Doges' Palace
From a Photograph by Naya.
S. CHRISTOPHER. From the Fresco by Titian in the Doges' " 62
Palace
From a Photograph by Naya.
THE ADAM AND EVE CORNER OF THE DOGES' PALACE " 70
From a Photograph by Naya.
S. TRIFONIO AND THE BASILISK. From the Painting by " 76
Carpaccio at S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni
From a Photograph by Anderson.
S. JEROME IN HIS CELL. From the Painting by Carpaccio at S. " 82
Giorgio degli Schiavoni
From a Photograph by Anderson.
THE MARRIAGE AT CANA. From the Painting by Tintoretto in " 96
the Church of the Salute
From a Photograph by Anderson.
VENICE WITH HERCULES AND CERES. From the Painting by " 102
Veronese in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Naya.
S. JOHN CHRYSOSTOM WITH SAINTS. From the Painting by " 116
Piombo in the Church of S. Giov. CrisostomoFrom a Photograph by Naya.
THE DREAM OF S. URSULA. From the Painting by Carpaccio " 120
in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Brogi.
THE BAPTISM OF CHRIST. From the Painting by Cima in the " 136
Church of S. Giovanni in Bragora
From a Photograph by Anderson.
MADONNA AND SLEEPING CHILD. From the Painting by " 144
Giovanni Bellini in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Naya.
VENUS, RULER OF THE WORLD. From the Painting by " 158
Giovanni Bellini in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Anderson.
THE ASSUMPTION OF THE VIRGIN. From the Painting by Titian " 164
in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Brogi.
THE MIRACLE OF S. MARK. From the Painting by Tintoretto " 170
in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Anderson.
THE FEAST IN THE HOUSE OF LEVI. From the Painting by " 176
Veronese in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Naya.
THE DEPARTURE OF THE BRIDEGROOM AND HIS MEETING WITH " 182
URSULA. From the Painting by Carpaccio in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Naya.
S. GEORGE. From the Painting by Mantegna in the " 190
Accademia
From a Photograph by Brogi.
MADONNA AND CHILD. From the Painting by Giovanni " 192
Bellini in the Accademia
From a Photograph by Brogi.
MADONNA AND CHILD WITH SAINTS. From the Painting by " 208
Giovanni Bellini in the Church of S. Zaccaria
From a Photograph by Naya.
S. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON. From the Painting by " 212
Carpaccio at S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni
From a Photograph by Anderson.
S. CHRISTOPHER, S. JEROME AND S. AUGUSTINE. From the " 224
painting by Giovanni Bellini in the Church of S. Giov. Crisostomo
From a Photograph by Naya.
THE CRUCIFIXION (CENTRAL DETAIL). From the Painting by " 236
Tintoretto in the Scuola di S. RoccoFrom a Photograph by Anderson.