Sep101Sepigel305-Tutorial

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• Publié par: Sawyung
• Nombre de lectures: 790
• Langue: English

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Basic Cream using Sepigel 305 Lets make a small batch as many of you may only have 1 oz of Seppigel. I recommend using a clear, 16 oz Pyrex measure bowl for todays class because the bowl is deeper than it is wide. When making a small batch like we are going to be doing today, you need to be able to use a deep container so the stick blender is blades are covered. You can also use a 16 oz Plastic Cup, the kind you often see at Keg Parties. I keep a new bag of these on hand at all times for these small batches or when I only need to do small batch tests. Here is what our cream formula will be. I have the percentage and then the grams based on a 200 gram batch (just less than 8 oz total): Oils & Butters of choice 15%(30 grams) SEPIGEL 305 3 - 4% (6 - 8 grams) Preservative, as directed by manufactuer (usually .01 - .1%) Fragrance, 1%(2 grams) Distilled water to bring the formula the total 100% value OPTIONAL: Actives such as AcquaCinque, Matrixyl, Water Based Botanical Extracts Ex). If including these extras, there weight should be included as part of your water weight above, but ADDED AT THE END OF FORMULATION. Phase 1: 1. AddSepigel 305 to vessel. Sepigel is so thick and viscous that it is easier to tare your vessel on your scale first and then add the Sepigel 305 slowly until you reach the gram/ounces needed. 2. Slowlyadd Sterile Water to bowl in increments.using stick blender to mix well.We are adding the water to the Sepigel 305 first as I have found this dramatically reduces the cottage cheese or lumping effect that is a normal part of the gel activation structure. Phase 2 3. Measureloose oils and any previously melted butters into the bowl with the Sepigel & water mixture and stick blend well. Wait about 5 minutes for full gel matrix activation. If desired consistency has not been achieved, add SEPIGEL 305 in .5% to 1% increments until desired consistency is achieved. Phase 3 4. 4.Note: Phenoxyethanol breaks the structure of Sepigel emulsions if you add this preservative before the Sepigel emulsion is fully stabilized. Since many active ingredients that you will use as optional ingredients contain phenoxyethanol, it is best to avoid using a phenoxyethanol based preservative as your formulas primary preservative. You can add your phenoxyethanol preserved actives and extracts at the end of the formulation period AFTER you have fully stabilized your sepigel emulsion.We will discuss this next.

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.

Phase 4: 5. Addingyour botanical extracts and actives (Optional).Now is the time to add your additional, optional ingredients if you have allowed part of your water weight be in the form of these botanical extracts or active ingredients. Remove a small portion of your cream as set aside in a small glass bowl (I use a small glass custard dish). Add each active ingredient or botanical extract individually to this small portion. You must qualify each active or botanical extract in this small portion of cream so that if one is incompatible you do not ruin your entire batch of cream. Finishing 6. Makesure your cream is blended well. It should be satiny smooth. Fill your jars and label. This basic Cream Formula can be expanded upon with the addition of IPM, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Squalane, and many other fancy ingredients.We made a basic cream. Below are some basic formula variations for making Lotions, Creams, and Body Butters using Sepigel 305 as your emulsifier:      Oils of choice10 - 20% SEPIGEL 3052% Preservative Asdirected by Manufacturer Sterile Deionized waterto make up 100% Fragrance*

1. AddSEPIGEL 305 to bowl. 2. Slowlyadd water, using stick blender mix well. 3. Measureoils into your Sepigel/Water mixture and mix well. If desired consistency has not been achieved, add SEPIGEL 305 in 1% increments until desired consistency is achieved. 4. AddPreservative. 5. Additionalbotanical extracts or actives can be incorporated in this basic formula. 6. SkinSafe fragrance or cosmetic approved color can be added to personal preference.

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.

     Oils & Butters of choice30% SEPIGEL 3053-4% Preservative Asdirected by Manufacturer Sterile Deionized waterto make up 100% Fragrance* *note: use skin safe fragrance if desired. 1. AddSEPIGEL 305 to bowl. 2. Slowlyadd Sterile Water to bowl in increments.using stick blender to mix well. 3. Measuremelted butters and/or loose oils into bowl and stick blend well. If desired consistency has not been achieved, add SEPIGEL 305 in 1% increments until desired consistency is achieved. 4. AddPreservative. 5. Additionalbotanical extracts or actives can be incorporated in this basic formula. 6. SkinSafe fragrance or cosmetic approved color can be added to personal preference.     Butters and/or Oils of choice30% SEPIGEL 3055% Preservative Asdirected by Manufacturer Sterile Deionized waterto make up 100% Fragrance* 1 AddSEPIGEL 305 to bowl. 2 Slowlyadd Sterile Water to bowl in increments.using stick blender to mix well. 3 Measuremelted butters and/or loose oils into bowl and stick blend well. If desired consistency has not been achieved, add SEPIGEL 305 in 1% increments until desired consistency is achieved. 4 AddPreservative. 5 Additionalbotanical extracts or actives can be incorporated in this basic formula. 6 SkinSafe fragrance or cosmetic approved color can be added to personal preference. NEXT:I will show you how to use Sepigel 305 with Alcohol and Acetone and those formulas will also be uploaded to the files.

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.

Basic Aftershave Splash using Sepigel 305 Basic Formula for Aftershave for a 200 gram mini batch. Again, use the clear 16 oz Pyrex measuring bowl or another Keg Party Cup, :) Alcohol 70% (140 grams) NOTE:(perfumers like SD 40, Everclear is often a controlled substance when used in resale products so checkwith your state before using Everclear) Oil 1% (2 grams) SEPIGEL 305 1 - 2% (2 - 4 grams) Dimethicone 2% (4 grams) Preservative (as directed by manufactuer) Distilled water (to bring formula to 100%) This will be at least 25% or 50 grams. Fragrance and Color* Phase 1 1. Add Sepigel 305 to vessel. Sepigel is so thick and viscous that it is easier to tare your vessel on your scale first and then add the Sepigel 305 slowly until you reach the gram/ounces needed. 2. Slowly add Sterile Water to bowl in increments.using stick blender to mix well.We are adding the water to the Sepigel 305 first as I have found this dramatically reduces the cottage cheese or lumping effect that is a normal part of the gel activation structure. Phase 2 3. Measuremelted oil and Dimethicone into mixture and blend well. Mixture will be VERY THICK. 4. Slowly add Alcohol in small portions, blending well with each addition. Let sit to stabilize, about 5 – 10 mins. 5. If desired consistency has not been achieved, add SEPIGEL 305 in 1% increments until desired consistency is achieved. Phase 3 6. AddPreservative. Mix well. 7. SkinSafe fragrance and cosmetic approved color to personal preference. Finishing You are now ready to pour your hydro alcoholic gelled liquid (it should be runny, but still thick) into bottles and label!

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.

Using Acetone with Sepigel 305 You can make your own thick, emoillient nail posish remover gels using ACETONE in the exact same manner as how we just used Alcohol. You can actually take the same formulation and substitute Acetone for the alcohol. 4-5% Sepigel will let you put this nail polish remover gel into a jar. The 1 - 2% will let you put it into bottles. FORMULATING NOTES: Formulating note regarding preservatives containing phenoxyethanol or other hydrophilic ingredients: There are a few raw ingredients that will break the Sepigel 305 emulsion. If you choose to add Sepigel 305 to the oily phase of the gel-cream, it is important to check before hand that this phase does not contain any strongly hydrophilic ingredient which might cause early reversal of the polymer (examples: phenoxyethanol, such as Liquipar, Optiphen, etc). Hydrophilic ingredients can be added at the end of the formulating phases without breaking the gel emulsion. As a general rule it is best to add preservatives, actives, botanical extracts, and other additives at the end of the formulation. Formulating note regarding hydroglycolic/hydroalcoholic/acetone gel: It is advisable to prepare the aqueous gel first and then add the solvent (hydroglycolic, or hydroalcoholic, or acetone) gradually, with just gentle mixing. Some known ingredients that are NOT COMPATIBLE with SEPIGEL 305: Cosmocil CQ Tinosan Phenoxyethanol based preservatives as PRIMARY Sepigel Emulsion preservative (Sepigel can handle the small amounts in the actives and extracts when they are added at the end of the formula) BTMS OSC CR PRESERVATIVES w/ Sepigel 305 Since we know we should not use phenoxyethanol as a primary preservative, we have to now look as what we CAN use. First, check the inci of the preservative you want to use. The Liquipar family of preservatives are phenoxyethanol based. The Opiphen family of preservaties are also phenoxyethanol based. Phenonip is phenoxyethanol based. So... we are left with Gemaben II, Germaben II E, and the Germall Plus family.

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.

If you are wanting non paraben based preservative for your Sepigel emulsions, I recommend either the Germall Plus powder or the Liquid Germall Plus. Another option that will soon be available at Southern Soapers Fragrances is the Geogard Ultra. It is also a powder, but very easy to work with. The only difficulty posed with working with powders is that you need a scale that can measure very VERY tiny amounts. I use a jewelers scale that I used to measure out single grams of saffron with. It measures in troy and gram. You can get one for about $30 - $40 if your scale does not already measure accurately to .000 (hundreths) of a gram. CLASS RECAP Now, you learned to make a BASIC CREAM using sepigel. Remember, more butters and more Sepigel = a rich body butter. Less Oils/Butters and less percentage of Sepigel = a lovely lotion. A bare minimum of oils and a very small percentage of Sepigel gives you a fantastic lotion serum. Alcohol added to a thick Sepigel emulsion will give you an aftershave if you add fragrance to it. You should include something to offset the drying nature of the alcohol... glycerine at small percentage is good, cyclomethicone is better. Acetone added to a thick Sepigel emulsion will give you a thick nail polish remover gel, or you can thin it down to a liquid version. Glycerin and a 1% oil is important to add to this formula also to nourish the nail and keep it from being over dried. I will now upload the PDFs for todays class into the SEP101 Folder in the files section.

 2007 Kelly J. Bloom, BloomWorks Soap Company, LC & Southern Soapers Fragrances & Supplies all rights reserved, not for publication without express permission.