Stonesetting for Jewellery Makers (New Edition)

Melissa Hunt

Description

GreenLight status awarded. Checklist Internal Pages (Final) ran on Wednesday 4 May 2022 at 12:05

Sujets

• Precious metal

Informations

• Publié par: Search Press
• Date de parution: 30 novembre 2022
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781800930780
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 76 Mo

Extrait

SEARCH PRESS

Stonesetting for Jewellery Makers

Techniques, inspiration & professional advice for stunning results

Melissa Hunt

E V I R S E D

E D I T I N O

Melissa Hunt

Melissa Hunt Melissa Hunt was awarded a BA (Hons) in Jewellery, Silversmithing and Allied Crafts from Sir John Cass School of Art, Whitechapel in 1995. She then ran a jewellery making business in West London and taught adults at The City Literary Institute near Hatton Garden. Melissa relocated to Ludlow in 2014 and now teaches and works to commission from her converted barn on the Shropshire/Herefordshire border. She specialises in setting unusually shaped stones and working with found materials.

“Whether you are new to setting stones or just want a refreshing look at settings this is the book for you.” MAKING JEWELLERY PROFESSIONAL (ISSUE 125)

“The methods here have been tested by time but the tools and settings, many readymade, are contemporary and designed to appeal to today’s jewellery maker and wearer.” MYSHELF.COM

Stonesetting for Jewellery Makers

Search Press

Revised edition published in 2022 by Search Press Ltd. Wellwood, North Farm Road Tunbridge Wells Kent TN2 3DR

This book is produced by The Bright Press, an imprint of the Quarto Group, The Old Brewery, 6 Blundell Street, London N7 9BH, United Kingdom.

T (0)20 7700 6700 www.QuartoKnows.com

© 2013 Quarto Publishing plc

All rights reserved. No part of this book, text, photographs or illustrations may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means by print, photoprint, microfilm, microfiche, photocopier, internet or in any way known or as yet unknown, or stored in a retrieval system, without written permission obtained beforehand from Search Press.

ISBN: 978-1-80092-085-9 eBook ISBN: 978-1-80093-078-0

Publisher: James Evans Editorial Director: Isheeta Mustafi Art Director: James Lawrence and Emily Portnoi Managing Editor: Jacqui Sayers Editors: Abbie Sharman and Katie Crous Cover Design: Emily Nazer Art Editor: Jennifer Osborne Layout: Emma Atkinson Picture Research: Heidi Adnum Illustrations: Anthony Atkinson, Peters & Zabransky, Emily Portnoi Photography on pages 38–59: Michael Wicks

Tools and Metals supplied by Cookson Precious Metals Gemstones supplied by A. E. Ward & Son Cover images: (front cover, top to bottom, left to right) Jennifer Briggs Jenkins, Erin Staples, Melissa Hunt, Erin Staples, Melissa Hunt, Lori Linkous Devine (back cover, top to bottom, left to right) Lucie Veilleux, Janna Culbreth, Goodman Morris, Kara Aubin and Daniel Juzwiak

Stonesetting for Jewellery Makers

Techniques, inspiration & professional advice for stunning results

Melissa Hunt

Search Press

Introduction

1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

T O O L S & M A T E R I A L S

CHAPTER 1 EQUIPMENT • The Bench and Studio • Measuring and Marking Tools • Punches, Blocks and Rolling Mill • Hand Tools • Cutting Tools • Hammers and Mallets • Files • Soldering Equipment • Stonesetting Tools • Electrical Equipment • Burrs • Wire Wrapping • Optical Aids • Micro Pave • Glue • Pearl Stringing • Precious Metal Clay

CHAPTER 2 CHOOSING STONES • Stone Types • Lapidary • Characteristics of Stones • Popular Minerals and Organics • Selecting a Stone • Metals for Stonesetting

06

10 11 12 14 15 16 18 19 20 22 24 25 26 26 26 26 26 27

28 29 30 36 39 61 62

2

S E T T I N G S & T E C H N I Q U E S

CHAPTER 3 BASIC FABRICATION & FINISHING TECHNIQUES • Measuring and Cutting Metal • Filing • Annealing • Pickling • Texturing and Forming • Soldering • Finishing Techniques

CHAPTER 4 PRONG & SNAP SETTING • Prong Setting with a Faceted or Cabochon Stone • Gallery

66 66 66 67 67 68 70 71

72 74 76

CHAPTER 5 PRECIOUS METAL CLAY  78 • Setting a Cabochon Stone into Precious Metal Clay 80 • Claw Setting into Precious Metal Clay 82 • Firing a Cubic Zirconia into Clay 84 • Gallery 86

CHAPTER 6 BEZEL, RUB-OVER OR CABOCHON SETTING • Bezel Setting • Gallery

88 90 94

CHAPTER 7 TUBE & COLLET SETTING 96 • Tube Setting 98 • Collet Setting 100 • Gallery 102

CHAPTER 8 GYPSY, FLUSH OR BURNISH SETTING • Gypsy Setting • Gallery

104 106 108

CHAPTER 9 TENSION SETTING • Tension Setting a Ring Shank • Gallery

CHAPTER 10 CHANNEL SETTING • Channel Setting • Gallery

CHAPTER 11 CLAW SETTING • Single Gallery Claw Setting • Gallery

CHAPTER 12 PAVE SETTING • Traditional Pave • Micro Pave Setting by Carlos Orfao • Star Setting by Andy Moulang • Gallery

CHAPTER 13 WRAPPING BEADS & STRINGING PEARLS • Beading with Wire • Wire Wrapping a Cuff Ring • Wire Wrapping a Sized Ring • Wire Wrapping a Pendant • Pearl Stringing • Gallery

CHAPTER 14 SETTING IRREGULARLY-SHAPED STONES & UNUSUAL MATERIALS • Nailhead Riveting • Tube Rivets • Tabs • End Caps • Making Screws • Making Hinges • Gallery

110 112 114

116 118 120

122 124 128

130 134 136 138 140

142 146 148 150 152 154 158

160 162 164 166 167 168 170 172

3

R E S O U R C E S

CHAPTER 15 CARE & REPAIRS • Care of Stones • Health and Safety in the Jewellery Workshop

CHAPTER 16 REFERENCES • Designing and Making a Commissioned Piece • Charts • Collet Template • Useful Books and Websites

Index Contributors Picture Credits Acknowledgements

176 176 177

178 179 180 183 184

186 190 191 192

Introduction

6

OPPOSITE PAGE

Silver, diamond, 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white gold and found materials. Rings by Melissa Hunt.

INTRODUCTION

The opportunity to write a book about stonesetting enabled me to refine the techniques I was already familiar with, but also reminded me of how much more there is to know about the relationship between gemstones and metals.

This book begins with a guide to the essential tools and equipment you’ll need followed by a directory of the most commonly used gemstones. Both traditional and less-conventional stonesetting techniques are explained, along with valuable information about the compatibility of stones and metals. Each step-by-step tutorial has a recommendation about the skill level involved (beginner, intermediate or advanced), and includes handy tips for varying the setting and producing great results.

I spent my childhood on the South Devon coast in England, collecting sea-worn fragments and watching the effects of erosion. After training at the London Metropolitan University, I valued the opportunity of using my knowledge of jewellery fabrication techniques to create wearable pieces from the objects I had gathered as a child. I hope this book will inspire you to adapt the techniques and create your own beautiful designs.

7

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Tools & Materials

CHAPTER 1 EQUIPMENT

10

OPPOSITE PAGE

The author’s bench and studio.

Jewellery-making tools are objects for a maker to get to know and love – through time and wear, these tools develop unique curves, shapes and cuts produced by the way that their owner uses and stores them. Buying cheap tools is a false economy – treat yourself to the most expensive tool kit you can afford and you will see the superior results produced.

THE BENCH AND STUDIO THE JEWELLER’S BENCH:This should be 95cm (37in) in height and screwed to the wall to reduce movement. Sit so that you are at shoulder height to the bench, at around eye level or just above the work. Invest in a leather benchskin to hang underneath the scooped-out area in the bench: this will hold tools and catch metal filings and dropped stones.

An angle-poise lamp with a daylight bulb is a necessity.

Consider where soldering will take place (torches are often held in the non- dominant hand), the location of power and electrical equipment, and where tools will be stored.

A screwed-down vice with easy access from all angles is also very useful. Make a quick drawing of your studio layout to find the best place for the pickle (should be warm, ventilated and close to a sink), rolling mill (will need clearance to wind), polishing motor (polishing dust must be contained and kept away from computers and liquids), pendant motor, bench drill and a safe area for storing chemicals.

11

Tools & Materials

MEASURING AND MARKING TOOLS

SCRIBER:Steel-pointed tool that scribes marks on to metal. Store on its side to prevent blunting the tip.

CENTRE PUNCH:Used with a cow hide mallet to produce an indentation in metal. Automatic centre punches are used without a mallet.

RING GAUGE:Used for taking an accurate ring size. The correct gauge should ‘walk’ over the second knuckle of the finger, and rotate when it reaches the base of the finger.

DIVIDERS:For drawing arcs, dividing circles and marking out lengths.

STEEL RULER:More resilient than a plastic ruler, these are invaluable for measuring and marking out.

12

ENGINEER’S SQUARE:For checking right angles and straight edges. Place the corner or edge of a workpiece into the inside of the square and hold up to the light to check for gaps.

VERNIER GAUGE:Used for scoring parallel lines, measuring stones, thicknesses of metal, internal dimensions and depths of tubing. Digital slide guides are more accurate than non-digital.

RING MANDREL:Tapered rod used for making rings to size. Available in wood, steel or aluminium.

ROUND MARKED GROOVED MANDREL:Useful for re-sizing and re-shaping stone-set rings. Has a D-shaped groove running along its length to house the stone while working on the piece.

BANGLE SIZER:Measures the length of metal required to make a bangle.

BANGLE MANDREL:Used for fabricating bangles. Available in wood or steel, round and oval.

13

DIGITAL SCALES:For weighing stones, weighing metal for hallmarking and quoting for commissions.

TRIBLETS:Available in round, oval and other profiles, these tapered steel tools are used for making settings round.

DIXIEME GAUGE:For measuring wall thicknesses – especially useful for a surface of an irregular density. Also measures internal areas, but not with such accuracy.

Tools & Materials

PUNCHES, BLOCKS AND ROLLING MILL

STEEL BLOCK:All-purpose flat, smooth block for checking straight edges, hammering textures and cooling metal.

LETTER AND NUMBER PUNCHES: Steel punches that make the impression of a letter, number or shape in annealed metal. Use with a hide mallet with the workpiece on a steel block.

DISC CUTTER:Punches that cut out circles or make circular marks on metal.

DOMING PUNCHES AND BLOCK: Spherical punches of different sizes make an annealed disc domed by placing it in an appropriately-sized cutout in a doming block and hammering with a hide mallet. Also useful for ‘trueing up’ rings by placing in the doming block and tapping with a doming punch on the ring’s horizontal plane.

SWAGE BLOCK:Used to produce tubing or half tubing from annealed sheet by using a former such as the handle of a doming block on its side.

14

DRAWPLATE:Used for straightening, work hardening and reducing the size and profile of wire and rod. Also used to make tubing. Needs to be secured in a vice.

ROLLING MILL:Used for making sheet metal and wire thinner and for impressing textures.

ROUNDNOSE PLIERS:Used in chain making, these are great for producing coils of wire that can then be cut up into jump rings. Tapered, so can produce small wire rings of different sizes.

SNIPENOSE PLIERS:Used for creating small angles in wire, such as square jump rings, and for holding work flat.

HAND TOOLS

DSHAPE OR HALFROUND PLIERS: One side of the jaws is cresent- shaped towards the centre and the other flat. When used with the curved side on the inside of a ring, they help encourage it into a round shape. Can also produce larger jump rings than round-nose pliers.

15

FLATNOSE PLIERS:Used to produce rectangular jump rings and for holding pieces.

PARALLELACTION PLIERS:These strong-jawed pliers work in a way that their jaws open in a parallel spacing, as opposed to the v-shaped action of the pliers described above. This makes them very strong jawed.