The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Africa, by John T.McCutcheonThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and withalmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away orre-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License includedwith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.orgTitle: In AfricaHunting Adventures in the Big Game CountryAuthor: John T. McCutcheonRelease Date: April 29, 2007 [eBook #21254]Language: EnglishCharacter set encoding: ISO-8859-1***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA*** E-text prepared by Rudy Kettererand the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team(http://www.pgdp.net) IN AFRICA[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. One Morning's Bag]One Morning's BagIN AFRICAHunting Adventures in theBig Game CountryBYJOHN T. McCUTCHEONCartoonist of the Chicago TribuneILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND CARTOONSBY THE AUTHOR INDIANAPOLISTHE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANYPUBLISHERSPRESS OFBRAUNWORTH & CO.BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERSBROOKLYN, N.Y. TO THOSE ADVENTUROUS SOULS WHORESENT THE RESTRAINT OF THE BEATEN PATHTHESE OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMATEURARE DEDICATEDPREFATORY NOTEThis collection of African stories has no pretentious purpose. It is merely the recordof a most delightful hunting trip into those fascinating regions along the Equator,where one may still have "thrilling adventures" and live in a story-book atmosphere,where the "roar of the lion" and the "crack of the ...
The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Africa, by John T.
McCutcheon
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: In Africa
Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country
Author: John T. McCutcheon
Release Date: April 29, 2007 [eBook #21254]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***
E-text prepared by Rudy Ketterer
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
(http://www.pgdp.net)
IN AFRICA
[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. One Morning's Bag]
One Morning's Bag
IN AFRICAHunting Adventures in the
Big Game Country
BYJOHN T. McCUTCHEON
Cartoonist of the Chicago Tribune
ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND CARTOONS
BY THE AUTHOR
INDIANAPOLIS
THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY
PUBLISHERS
PRESS OF
BRAUNWORTH & CO.
BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERS
BROOKLYN, N.Y.
TO THOSE ADVENTUROUS SOULS WHO
RESENT THE RESTRAINT OF THE BEATEN PATH
THESE OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMATEUR
ARE DEDICATED
PREFATORY NOTE
This collection of African stories has no pretentious purpose. It is merely the record
of a most delightful hunting trip into those fascinating regions along the Equator,
where one may still have "thrilling adventures" and live in a story-book atmosphere,
where the "roar of the lion" and the "crack of the rifle" are part of the every-day life,
and where in a few months one may store up enough material to keep the memory
pleasantly occupied all the rest of a lifetime. The stories are descriptive of a four-
and-a-half months' trip in the big game country and pretend to no more serious
purpose than merely to relate the experiences of a self-confessed amateur under
such conditions.
JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
August, 1910
CONTENTS
CHAPTER ONE
The Preparation for Departure. Experiences with Willing
Friends and Advisers
CHAPTER TWO
The First Half of the Voyage. From Naples to the Red Sea,
with a Few Side-Lights on Indian Ocean Travel
CHAPTER THREE
The Island of Mombasa, with the Jungles of Equatorial
Africa "Only a Few Blocks Away." A Story of the World's
Champion Man-Eating Lions
CHAPTER FOUR
On the Edge of the Athi Plains, Face to Face with Herds of
Wild Game. Up in a Balloon at Nairobi
CHAPTER FIVE
Into the Heart of the Big Game Country with a Retinue of
More Than One Hundred Natives. A Safari and What It IsCHAPTER SIX
A Lion Drive. With a Rhino in Range Some One Shouts
"Simba" and I Get My First Glimpse of a Wild Lion. Three
Shots and Out
CHAPTER SEVEN
On the Tana River, the Home of the Rhino. The Timid are
Frightened, the Dangerous Killed, and Others
Photographed. Moving Pictures of a Rhino Charge
CHAPTER EIGHT
Meeting Colonel Roosevelt in the Uttermost Outpost of
Semi-Civilization. He Talks of Many Things, Hears that he
has Been Reported Dead, and Promptly Plans an Elephant
Hunt
CHAPTER NINE
The Colonel Reads Macaulay's "Essays," Discourses on
Many Subjects with Great Frankness, Declines a Drink of
Scotch Whisky, and Kills Three Elephants
CHAPTER TEN
Elephant Hunting Not an Occasion for Lightsome
Merrymaking. Five Hundred Thousand Acres of Forest in
Which the Kenia Elephant Lives, Wanders and Brings Up
His Children
CHAPTER ELEVEN
Nine Days Without Seeing an Elephant. The Roosevelt
Party Departs and We March for the Mountains on Our Big
Elephant Hunt. The Policeman of the Plains
CHAPTER TWELVE
"Twas the Day Before Christmas." Photographing a
Charging Elephant, Cornering a Wounded Elephant in a
River Jungle Growth. A Thrilling Charge. Hassan's Courage
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
In the Swamps of the Guas Ngishu. Beating for Lions We
Came Upon a Strange and Fascinating Wild Beast, Which
Became Attached to Our Party. The Little Wanderobo Dog
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
Who's Who in Jungleland. The Hartebeest and the
Wildebeest, the Amusing Giraffe and the Ubiquitous Zebra,
the Lovely Gazelle and the Gentle Impalla
CHAPTER FIFTEEN
Some Natural History in Which it is Revealed that a Sing-
Sing Waterbuck is Not a Singing Topi, and that a Topi is
Not a Species of Head-dress
CHAPTER SIXTEEN
In the Tall Grass of the Mount Elgon Country. A Narrow
Escape from a Long-Horned Rhino. A Thanksgiving Dinner
and a Visit to a Native Village
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
Up and Down the Mountain Side from the Ketosh Village to
the Great Cave of Bats. A Dramatic Episode with the
Finding of a Black Baby as a Climax
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
Electric Lights, Motor-Cars and Fifteen Varieties of Wild
Game. Chasing Lions Across the Country in a Carriage
CHAPTER NINETEEN
The Last Word in Lion Hunting. Methods of Trailing,
Ensnaring and Otherwise Outwitting the King of Beasts. A
Chapter of AdventuresCHAPTER TWENTY
Abdullah the Cook and Some Interesting Gastronomic
Experiences. Thirteen Tribes Represented in the Safari.
Abdi's Story of His Uncle and the Lions
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
Back Home from Africa. Ninety Days on the Way Through
India, Java, China, Manila and Japan. Three Chow Dogs
and a Final Series of Amusing Adventures
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
Ways and Means. What to Take and What Not to Take.
Information for Those that Wish, Intend or Hope to Hunt in
the African Highlands
IN AFRICACHAPTER I
THE PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. EXPERIENCES WITH
WILLING FRIENDS AND ADVISERS
Ever since I can remember, almost, I have cherished a modest ambition to hunt lions and elephants. At an early age,
or, to be more exact, at about that age which finds most boys wondering whether they would rather be Indian fighters or
sailors, I ran across a copy of Stanley's Through the Dark Continent. It was full of fascinating adventures. I thrilled at the
accounts which spoke in terms of easy familiarity of "express" rifles and "elephant" guns, and in my vivid but misguided
imagination, I pictured an elephant gun as a sort of cannon—a huge, unwieldy arquebus—that fired a ponderous shell.
The old woodcuts of daring hunters and charging lions inspired me with unrest and longing—the longing to bid the farm
farewell and start down the road for Africa. Africa! What a picture it conjured up in my fancy! Then, as even now, it
symbolized a world of adventurous possibilities; and in my boyhood fancy, it lay away off there—somewhere—vaguely—
beyond mountains and deserts and oceans, a vast, mysterious, unknown land, that swarmed with inviting dangers and
alluring romance.
One by one my other youthful ambitions have been laid away. I have given up hope of ever being an Indian fighter out
on the plains, because the pesky redskins have long since ceased to need my strong right arm to quell them. I also have
yielded up my ambition to be a sailor, or rather, that branch of the profession in which I hoped to specialize—piracy—
because, for some regretful reason, piracy has lost much of its charm in these days of great liners. There is no treasure
to search for any more, and the golden age of the splendid clipper ships, with their immense spread of canvas, has given
way to the unromantic age of the grimy steamer, about which there is so little to appeal to the imagination. Consequently,
lion hunting is about the only thing left—except wars, and they are few and far between.
And so, after suffering this "lion-hunting" ambition to lie fallow for many years, I at last reached a day when it seemed
possible to realize it. The chance came in a curiously unexpected way. Mr. Akeley, a man famed in African hunting
exploits, was to deliver a talk before a little club to which I belonged. I went, and as a result of my thrilled interest in every
word he said, I met him and talked with him and finally was asked to join a new African expedition that he had in
prospect. With the party were to be Mrs. Akeley, with a record of fourteen months in the big game country, and Mr.
Stephenson, a hunter with many years of experience in the wild places of the United States, Canada and Mexico. My
hunting experience had been chiefly gained in my library, but for some strange reason, it did not seem incongruous that I
should begin my real hunting in a lion and elephant country.
[Drawing: Getting Ready for Lion Shooting]
Getting Ready for Lion Shooting
I had all the prowess of a Tartarin, and during the five months that elapsed before I actually set forth, I went about my
daily work with a mind half dazed with the delicious consciousness that I was soon to become a lion hunter. I feared that
modern methods might have taken away much of the old-time romance of the sport, but I felt certain that there was still to
be something left in the way of excitement and adventure.
The succeeding pages of this book contain the chronicle of the nine delightful months that followed my departure from
America.
In the middle of August Mr. Stephenson and I arrived in London. Mr. Akeley had ordered most of our equipment by
letter, but there still remained many things to be done, and for a week or more we were busy from morning till night.
It is amazing how much stuff is required to outfit a party of four people for an African shooting expedition of several
months' duration. First in importance come the rifles, then the tents and camp equipment, then the clothes and boots,
then the medical supplies, and finally the food. Perhaps the food might be put first in importance, but just now, after a
hearty dinner, it seems to be the least important detail.
Many men outfitting for an African campaign among wild animals secure their outfits in London. It is there, in modest
little shops, that one gets the weapons that are known to sportsmen from one end of the world to the other—weapons
designed expressly for the requirements of African shooting, and which have long stood the test of hard, practical
service. For two days we haunted these famous gun-makers' shops, and for two days I made a magnificent attempt to
look learnedly at things about which I knew little.
[Drawing: Practising in the Museum]
Practising in the Museum
At last, aft