Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By the Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During the Years 1846-1850. - Including Discoveries and Surveys in New Guinea, the Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. to Which Is Added the Account of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition for the Exploration of the Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist to the Expedition. — Volume 1
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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative Of The Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By The Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During The Years 1846-1850. Including Discoveries And Surveys In New Guinea, The Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. To Which Is Added The Account Of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition For The Exploration Of The Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist To The Expedition. In Two Volumes. Volume 1., by John MacGillivray This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: Narrative Of The Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By The Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During The Years 1846-1850. Including Discoveries And Surveys In New Guinea, The Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. To Which Is Added The Account Of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition For The Exploration Of The Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist To The Expedition. In Two Volumes. Volume 1. Author: John MacGillivray Release Date: May 25, 2004 [EBook #12433] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE *** Produced by Sue Asscher NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, COMMANDED BY THE LATE CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. ETC.
Informations
| Publié par | mosir |
| Publié le | 08 décembre 2010 |
| Nombre de lectures | 47 |
| Langue | English |
| Poids de l'ouvrage | 1 Mo |
Extrait
The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative Of The Voyage Of H.M.S.
Rattlesnake, Commanded By The Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During The Years 1846-1850. Including Discoveries And Surveys In New Guinea, The Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. To Which Is Added The Account Of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition For The Exploration Of The Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist To The Expedition. In Two Volumes. Volume 1., by John MacGillivray
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever.
You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: Narrative Of The Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By The Late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During The Years 1846-1850. Including Discoveries And Surveys In New Guinea, The Louisiade Archipelago, Etc. To Which Is Added The Account Of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's Expedition For The Exploration Of The Cape York Peninsula. By John Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist To The Expedition. In Two Volumes. Volume 1.
Author: John MacGillivray
Release Date: May 25, 2004 [EBook #12433]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE ***
Produced by Sue Asscher
NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE
O F
H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE,
C O M M A N D E D B Y T H E L A T E
CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. ETC.
D U R IN G T H E Y E A R S 1 8 4 6 -1 8 5 0 .
IN C L U D IN G D IS C O V E R IE S A N D S U R V E Y S IN
NEW GUINEA, THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO,
E T C .
T O W H IC H IS A D D E D T H E A C C O U N T O F
MR. E.B. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION
F O R T H E E X P L O R A T IO N O F T H E C A P E Y O R K P E N IN S U L A .
BY JOHN MACGILLIVRAY, F.R.G.S.
N A T U R A L IS T T O T H E E X P E D IT IO N .
P U B L IS H E D U N D E R T H E
SANCTION OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE
ADMIRALTY.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOLUME 1.
L O N D O N :
T . & W . B O O N E , 2 9 , N E W B O N D S T R E E T .
1852.
TO
MRS. STANLEY,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED
AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT TO THE MEMORY OF HER SON,
UNDER WHOSE DIRECTION THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS
OF THE
VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE
WERE SUCCESSFULLY ACCOMPLISHED.
C A N O E A N D N A T IV E S O F B R U M E R IS L A N D , N E W G U IN E A .
T . H u x le y , d e lt. H u l m a n d e l & W a lto n , L ith o g ra p h e rs .
T . & W . B o o n e , P u b lis h e rs , L o n d o n . 1 8 5 2 .
PREFACE.
It w a s o rig in a l y in te n d e d th a t a n a c c o u n t o f th e S u rv e y in g Vo y a g e o f H .M .S .
R a t le s n a k e s h o u ld h a v e b e e n u n d e rta k e n c o n jo in tly b y th e la te C a p ta in O w e n
S ta n le y a n d m y s e lf, in w h ic h c a s e th e n a r a tiv e w o u ld h a v e b e e n c o n s tru c te d
fro m th e m a te ria ls a f o rd e d b y th e jo u rn a ls o f b o th , a n d th e n e c e s s a ry re m a rk s
u p o n h y d ro g ra p h ic a l s u b je c ts w o u ld h a v e b e e n fu rn is h e d b y th a t o f ic e r, w h o s e
la m e n te d d e a th in M a rc h , 1 8 5 0 , p re v e n te d th is a r a n g e m e n t fro m b e in g c a r ie d
o u t. N o t h a v in g h a d a c c e s s to C a p ta in S ta n le y 's p riv a te jo u rn a ls , I c o n s id e re d
m y s e lf fo rtu n a te , w h e n th e L o rd s C o m m is s io n e rs o f th e A d m ira lty - in a d d itio n to
s a n c tio n in g th e p u b lic a tio n o f m y a c c o u n t o f th e Vo y a g e in q u e s tio n - d ire c te d
th a t e v e ry fa c ility s h o u ld b e a f o rd e d m e in c o n s u ltin g th e m a n u s c rip t c h a rts a n d
o th e r
h y d ro g ra p h ic a l
re s u lts
a t
th e ir
d is p o s a l,
a n d
to
R e a r-A d m ira l
S ir
F.
B e a u fo rt, C .B ., C o m m a n d e r C .B . Yu le , R .N ., a n d L ie u te n a n t J . D a y m a n , R .N ., I
b e g to e x p re s s m y th a n k s fo r th e lib e ra l m a n n e r in w h ic h th e y c a r ie d o u t th e ir
L o rd s h ip s ' in te n tio n s .
To th e o th e r g e n tle m e n w h o h a v e c o n trib u te d A p p e n d ic e s to th is w o rk - G e o rg e
B u s k , E s q u ire F.R .S ., D r. R .G . L a th a m , P ro fe s s o r E d w a rd F o rb e s , F.R .S ., a n d
A d a m W h ite , E s q u ire , F.L .S .- I h a v e a ls o to o f e r m y b e s t th a n k s . It a ls o a f o rd s
m e g re a t p le a s u re to re c o rd m y o b lig a tio n s to T. H u x le y, E s q u ire R .N ., F.R .S .,
la te A s s is ta n t-S u rg e o n o f th e R a t le s n a k e , fo r th e h a n d s o m e m a n n e r in w h ic h
h e
a l o w e d
m e
to
s e le c t fro m
h is
c o l e c tio n
o f d ra w in g s
th o s e
w h ic h
n o w
a p p e a r a s il u s tra tio n s ; a n d I m a y e x p re s s th e h o p e , w h ic h in c o m m o n w ith
m a n y o th e rs I e n te rta in , th a t th e w h o le o f h is re s e a rc h e s in m a rin e z o o lo g y m a y
s p e e d ily
b e
la id
b e fo re
th e
s c ie n tific
w o rld . M y
o w n
c o l e c tio n s
in
N a tu ra l
H is to ry h a v e b e e n s u b m it e d to th e e x a m in a tio n o f v a rio u s e m in e n t n a tu ra lis ts .
M a n y o f th e n o v e ltie s h a v e a lre a d y b e e n d e s c rib e d , a n d th e re m a in d e r w il
a p p e a r fro m tim e to tim e .
CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1.
C H A P T E R 1 .1 .
Objects of the Voyage.
Admiralty Instructions.
Hydrographer's Instructions.
Sail from Plymouth.
Ar ive at Madeira.
Funchal.
Visit to Cur al.
Try for Deep Sea Soundings.
Crossing the Line.
Ar ive at Rio de Janeiro.
City of Rio and Neighbourhood.
Dredging in Botafogo Bay.
Slavery.
Religious Processions.
Brazilian Character.
Cross the South Atlantic.
Temperature of the Sea.
Oceanic Birds.
Pelagic Animals.
Ar ive at Simon's Bay.
Survey the Bay.
Caf re War.
Observations on the Waves.
Ar ive at Mauritius.
Port Louis.
Visit to Pamplemousses.
La Pouce Mountain.
Try for Deep Sea Soundings.
Ar ive at Hobart Town.
C H A P T E R 1 .2 .
Ar ive at Sydney.
Bramble is at ached to the Expedition.
Survey Entrance of Port Jackson and Twofold Bay.
Sail upon our First Northern Cruise.
Ar ive at Moreton Bay.
Proceedings there.
Natives at Moreton Island.
Ar ive at Port Curtis.
Set lement of North Australia.
Excursions made in Neighbourhood.
Natural Productions.
Cal at the Percy Isles.
Port Mol e and Cape Upstart.
Unable to find Fresh Water.
Return to Sydney.
Recent Occur ences there.
Sail for Bass Strait.
Visit Port Phil ip and Port Dalrymple.
Inspect the Lighthouses of the Strait.
C H A P T E R 1 .3 .
Sail on our Second Northern Cruise.
Entrance to the Inner Passage.
Ar ive at Rockingham Bay.
Land Mr. Kennedy's Expedition.
Commence the Survey at Dunk Island.
Communication with Natives.
Barnard Isles.
Botanical Sketch.
Examine a New River.
Frankland Isles.
Find the Cocoanut Palm.
Fitzroy Island.
The Wil -o-the-Wisp and her Story.
Trinity Bay.
Animals of a Coral Reef.
Stay at Lizard Island.
Howick, Pelican, and Claremont Isles.
Bird Isles.
Meet party of Natives in Distress.
Cairncross Island.
Ar ive at Cape York.
C H A P T E R 1 .4 .
Water the Ship.
Vessel with Supplies ar ives.
Natives at Cape York.
Description of the Country and its Productions.
Port Albany considered as a Depot for Steamers.
Sail from Cape York and ar ive at Port Essington.
Condition of the Place.
History of the Set lement.
Would be useless as a Colony.
Aborigines.
Leave Port Essington.
Ar ive at Sydney.
C H A P T E R 1 .5 .
Fate of Kennedy's Expedition.
Sail on our Third Northern Cruise.
Excursion on Moreton Island.
History of Discoveries on the South-East Coast of New Guinea and the
Louisiade Archipelago, from 1606 to 1846.
Find the Shores of the Louisiade protected by a Bar ier Reef.
Beautiful appearances of Rossel Island.
Pass through an opening in the Reef, and enter Coral Haven.
Interview with Natives on Pig Island.
Find them treacherously disposed.
Their mode of Fishing on the Reefs.
Establish a system of Barter alongside the Ship.
Description of the Louisiade Canoes, and mode of management.
Find a Watering Place on South-East Island.
Its Scenery and Productions.
Suspicious conduct of the Natives.
Their Ornaments, etc. described.
C H A P T E R 1 .6 .
Leave Coral Haven.
Brierly Island.
Communication with the Natives.
Description of their Huts.
Bartering for Yams and Cocoa-nuts.
Suspicious conduct of the Natives.
They at ack the Surveying Boats.
Calvados Group.
Further communication with the Inhabitants.
Stay at Duchateau Islands.
Their Productions.
Proceedings there.
Duper e Islands.
Unable to find Anchorage.
Pass out to Sea, and proceed to the Westward.
Western termination of the Louisiade Archipelago.
Reach the Coast of New Guinea.
C H A P T E R 1 .7 .
Brumer Islands.
Catamarans and Canoes.
Friendly relations with the Natives of New Guinea.
Are wel received at their Vil age.
Tatooing and Dress of the Women.
The Huts described.
Large Canoe from the Mainland.
Tassai ladies return our visit.
The Natives described.
Their Weapons, Ornaments, Food, etc.
Cul de Sac de l'Orangerie, and Communication with the Natives.
Redscar Bay and its Inhabitants.
Leave the Coast of New Guinea.
Ar ive at Cape York.
C H A P T E R 1 .8 .
Rescue a white Woman from Captivity among the Natives.
Her History.
Bramble and boats complete the Survey of Tor es Strait.
Wini and the Mulgrave Islanders.
Intercourse with the Cape York Natives.
Nearly quar el with them at a night dance.
Witness a Native fight.
Discover some fine country.
Incidents of our stay.
Many new Birds found.
Remarks on the Climate, etc. of Cape York.
A P P E N D IX .
OBSERVATIONS ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE SEA, MADE DURING
THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, DECEMBER 1846 TO JULY
1847, BY LIEUTENANT J. DAYMAN, R.N.
ABSTRACTS
OF
MERIDIAN
DISTANCES
MEASURED
DURING
THE
VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, 1847 TO 1850, BY CAPTAIN OWEN
STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S., AND LIEUTENANT C.B. YULE, R.N.
OBSERVATIONS OF THE MEAN MAGNETIC INCLINATION, MADE ON
SHORE IN THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, BY LIEUTENANT J.
DAYMAN, R.N.
ACCOUNT
OF
THE
POLYZOA
AND
SERTULARIAN
ZOOPHYTES,
COLLECTED IN THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, BY GEORGE
BUSK, ESQUIRE F.R.S.
LIST OF PLATES. VOLUME 1.
C A N O E A N D N A T IV E S O F N E W G U IN E A .
C U T T IN G T H R O U G H T H E S C R U B A T R O C K IN G H A M B A Y .
T . H u x le y , d e lt. H u l m a n d e l & W a lto n , L ith o g ra p h e rs .
T . & W . B o o n e , P u b lis h e rs , L o n d o n . 1 8 5 2 .
L IM E C A L A B A S H A N D S P A T U L A .
IN T E R V IE W
W IT H
N AT IV E S
O F
R E D S C A R
B AY,
L O U IS IA D E
A R C H IP E L A G O .
S T O N E -H E A D E D A X E A N D F IS H H O O K .
P L A N O F P IR O N IS L A N D C A N O E .
L A R G E C A N O E O F T H E L O U IS IA D E .
V IE W
IN
W AT E R IN G
C R E E K ,
S O U T H -E A S T
IS L A N D ,
L O U IS IA D E
A R C H IP E L A G O .
T . H u x le y , d e lt. H u l m a n d e l & W a lto n , L ith o g ra p h e rs .
T . & W . B o o n e , P u b lis h e rs , L o n d o n . 1 8 5 2 .
T . H u x le y , E s q u ire d e l.
B R A C E L E T M A D E O F A H U M A N J A W .
H U T O N B R IE R L Y IS L A N D , L O U IS IA D E A R C H IP E L A G O
E N D V IE W O F H U T O N B R IE R L Y IS L A N D .
IN T E R IO R O F H U T O N B R IE R L Y IS L A N D .
C A T A M A R A N A N D N A T IV E S O F B R U M E R IS L A N D .
D R U M , B A IL E R , A N D C O O K IN G P O T .
V IL L A G E O F T A S S A I, N E W G U IN E A .
H u l m a n d e l & W a lto n , L ith o g ra p h e rs .
T . & W . B o o n e , P u b lis h e rs , L o n d o n . 1 8 5 2 .
S H IE L D , S P E A R S , B A S K E T , A N D C O M B .
P A N D E A N P IP E S .
W O O D E N P IL L O W .
N E W G U IN E A C A N O E IN A S Q U A L L .
N A T IV E S O F R E D S C A R B A Y .
P L A Y H O U S E O F B O W E R B IR D O F C A P E Y O R K .
N E W Z O O P H Y T E S .
C . B u s k , d e lt. W . W in g , lith .
T . & W . B o o n e , P u b lis h e rs , L o n d o n . 1 8 5 2 .
H u l m a n d e l & W a lto n , L ith o g ra p h e rs .
VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE.
CHAPTER 1.1.
O b je c ts o f th e V o y a g e .
A d m ira lty In s tru c tio n s .
H y d ro g ra p h e r's In s tru c tio n s .
S a il fro m P ly m o u th .
A r iv e a t M a d e ira .
F u n c h a l.
V is it to C u r a l.
T ry fo r D e e p S e a S o u n d in g s .
C ro s s in g th e L in e .
A r iv e a t R io d e J a n e iro .
C ity o f R io a n d N e ig h b o u rh o o d .
D re d g in g in B o ta fo g o B a y .
S la v e ry .
R e lig io u s P ro c e s s io n s .
B ra z ilia n C h a ra c te r.
C ro s s th e S o u th A tla n tic .
T e m p e ra tu re o f th e S e a .
O c e a n ic B ird s .
P e la g ic A n im a ls .
A r iv e a t S im o n 's B a y .
S u rv e y th e B a y .
C a f re W a r.
O b s e rv a tio n s o n th e W a v e s .
A r iv e a t M a u ritiu s .
P o rt L o u is .
V is it to P a m p le m o u s s e s .
L a P o u c e M o u n ta in .
T ry fo r D e e p S e a S o u n d in g s .
A r iv e a t H o b a rt T o w n .
H .M .S . R a t le s n a k e , o n e o f th e o ld c la s s o f 2 8 -g u n s h ip s , w a s c o m m is s io n e d a t
P o rts m o u th o n S e p te m b e r 2 4 th , 1 8 4 6 , b y th e la te C a p ta in O w e n S ta n le y, w ith a
c o m p le m e n t o f 1 8 0 o f ic e rs a n d m e n . T h e n a tu re a n d o b je c ts o f th e in te n d e d
v o y a g e w il
b e s t b e c o n v e y e d to th e re a d e r th ro u g h th e m e d iu m o f th e fo l o w in g
in s tru c tio n s fro m th e A d m ira lty, fo r th e u s e o f w h ic h I a m in d e b te d to L ie u te n a n t
C .B . Yu le , w h o s u c c e e d e d to th e c o m m a n d o f th e R a t le s n a k e , u p o n th e d e a th
o f o u r la te la m e n te d C a p ta in , a t S y d n e y, in M a rc h 1 8 5 0 , a fte r th e s u c c e s s fu l
a c c o m p lis h m e n t o f th e p rin c ip a l o b je c ts o f th e e x p e d itio n .
B Y T H E C O M M IS S IO N E R S F O R E X E C U T IN G T H E O F F IC E O F L O R D H IG H
A D M IR A L O F T H E U N IT E D K IN G D O M O F G R E AT B R ITA IN A N D IR E L A N D ,
E T C .
W h e re a s , it b e in g th e u s u a l p ra c tic e o f v e s s e ls re tu rn in g fro m th e A u s tra lia n
C o lo n ie s , o r fro m th e S o u th S e a , to p ro c e e d to In d ia th ro u g h To r e s S tra it; a n d
m o s t o f th o s e v e s s e ls p re fe r in g th e c h a n c e o f fin d in g a c o n v e n ie n t o p e n in g in
th e B a r ie r R e e fs to th e la b o u r o f fre q u e n t a n c h o ra g e in th e In s h o re P a s s a g e , it
w a s th o u g h t fit to s e n d o u t a n e x p e d itio n u n d e r C a p ta in F ra n c is B la c k w o o d , to
d e te rm in e w h ic h w a s th e b e s t o p e n in g th a t th o s e re e fs w o u ld a f o rd , a n d to
m a k e s u c h a s u rv e y th e re o f a s w o u ld e n s u re th e s a fe ty o f a l
v e s s e ls w h ic h
s h o u ld c o n tin u e to a d o p t th a t m o d e o f re a c h in g th e S tra it:
A n d w h e re a s , a lth o u g h th a t s p e c ific o b je c t w a s s u c c e s s fu l y a c h ie v e d b y th e
s u rv e y o f R a in e Is la n d P a s s a g e , a n d b y th e e re c tio n o f a d u ra b le b e a c o n th e re
to re n d e r it th e m o re a c c e s s ib le , y e t it a p p e a rs th a t m u c h is s til
to b e d o n e in
th o s e s e a s in o rd e r to m a k e th e a p p ro a c h to th e S tra it m o re s e c u re a n d c e rta in ,
a s w e l
a s to a f o rd th e c h o ic e o f a n o th e r e n tra n c e fa rth e r to th e n o rth w a rd in
c a s e o f v e s s e ls o v e rs h o o tin g th e la titu d e o f R a in e Is la n d b y s tre s s o f w in d , o r
c u r e n t:
W e
h a v e , th e re fo re , th o u g h t p ro p e r to
a p p o in t y o u
to
th e
c o m m a n d
o f th e
R a t le s n a k e , fo r th e p u rp o s e o f c a r y in g o u t th e s e o b je c ts ; a n d y o u a re h e re b y
re q u ire d
a n d
d ire c te d , w h e n
th a t s h ip
is
in
e v e ry
re s p e c t re a d y
fo r s e a , to
p ro c e e d in h e r to M a d e ira fo r th e v e rific a tio n o f y o u r c h ro n o m e te rs - fro m th e n c e
to S im o n 's B a y a t th e C a p e o f G o o d H o p e , fo r a s u p p ly o f w a te r, a n d to la n d th e
5 0 ,0 0 0 p o u n d s y o u h a v e b e e n o rd e re d to c o n v e y to th a t c o lo n y ; th e n to m a k e
th e
b e s t o f y o u r w a y to
th e
M a u ritiu s , to
la n d
th e
tre a s u re
(1 5 ,0 0 0
p o u n d s )
e n tru s te d to y o u r c h a rg e fo r th a t is la n d ; a n d h a v in g s o d o n e , to p ro c e e d to K in g
G e o rg e
S o u n d
fo r
th e
p u rp o s e
o f
c a r y in g
its
e x a c t
m e rid ia n
d is ta n c e
to
S y d n e y, w h e re
y o u
w il
lo s e
n o
tim e
in
p re p a rin g
fo r th e
e x e c u tio n
o f th e
im p o rta n t s e rv ic e e n tru s te d to y o u .
T h e s e v e ra l o b je c ts o f th a t s e rv ic e h a v e b e e n d ra w n u p u n d e r o u r d ire c tio n b y
o u r H y d ro g ra p h e r; b u t n o tw ith s ta n d in g th e o rd e r in w h ic h th e y a re p la c e d , w e
le a v e
to
y o u r o w n
d is c re tio n
th e
s e v e ra l p e rio d s
o f th e ir p e rfo rm a n c e , a n d
lik e w is e th e tim e s o f y o u r re tu rn to S y d n e y to re v ic tu a l a n d re fit- b e in g s a tis fie d
th a t y o u r z e a l in p u s h in g fo rw a rd th e s u rv e y w il
n e v e r o u ts trip y o u r a t e n tio n to
th e h e a lth a n d c o m fo rt o f y o u r c re w .
Yo u w il
ta k e th e B ra m b le a n d h e r te n d e r, th e C a s tle re a g h , u n d e r y o u r o rd e rs ,
a n d e m p lo y th e m
in th o s e p la c e s w h ic h re q u ire v e s s e ls o f a lig h te r d ra ft o f
w a te r
th a n
th e
R a t le s n a k e .
T h e y
a re
to
b e
a t a c h e d
a s
te n d e rs
to
th e
R a t le s n a k e , a n d to b e m a n n e d fro m th a t s h ip ; a n d s u c h o f th e p re s e n t c re w o f
th e
B ra m b le
a s
m a y
h a v e
s e rv e d
fiv e
y e a rs
c o n tin u o u s ly, a n d
v o lu n te e r to
re m a in
o n
th e
s u rv e y in g
s e rv ic e
in
A u s tra lia ,
a re
to
b e
e n te re d
in
th e
R a t le s n a k e u n d e r th e p ro v is io n s o f th e A c t o f P a rlia m e n t. T h e b o o k s o f th e
B ra m b le
a re
to
b e
c lo s e d ,
a n d
s h e
is
to
b e
c o n s id e re d
a s
n o
lo n g e r
in
c o m m is s io n ; a n d y o u a re h e re b y a u th o ris e d , a fte r b e in g jo in e d b y h e r a n d b y
th e C a s tle re a g h , to e n te r te n s u p e rn u m e ra ry s e a m a n fo r w a g e s a n d v ic tu a ls in
th e R a t le s n a k e (m a k in g h e r to ta l c o m p le m e n t 1 9 0 ) to e n a b le y o u e f e c tiv e ly to
m a n th e s a id tw o te n d e rs .
In s tre tc h in g o f
fro m th e B a r ie r R e e fs to th e e a s tw a rd , in o rd e r to e x p lo re th e
s a fe ty o f th e s e a in te rv e n in g b e tw e e n th e m a n d L o u is ia d e a n d N e w G u in e a ,
y o u w il
h a v e o c c a s io n to a p p ro a c h th o s e s h o re s , in w h ic h c a s e y o u m u s t b e
c o n s ta n tly
o n
y o u r
g u a rd
a g a in s t
th e
tre a c h e ro u s
d is p o s itio n
o f
th e ir
in h a b ita n ts , a l
b a rte r fo r re fre s h m e n ts s h o u ld b e c o n d u c te d u n d e r th e e y e o f a n
o f ic e r, a n d e v e ry p a in s b e ta k e n to a v o id g iv in g a n y ju s t c a u s e o f o f e n c e to
th e ir p re ju d ic e s , e s p e c ia l y w ith re s p e c t to th e ir w o m e n .
A n a tu ra lis t h a v in g b e e n p e rm it e d to a c c o m p a n y y o u , e v e ry re a s o n a b le fa c ility
is to b e g iv e n h im in m a k in g a n d p re s e rv in g h is c o l e c tio n s .
In th e e v e n t o f th is c o u n try b e in g in v o lv e d in h o s tilitie s d u rin g y o u r a b s e n c e ,
y o u w il
ta k e c a re n e v e r to b e s u rp ris e d ; b u t y o u a re to re fra in fro m a n y a c t o f
a g g re s s io n to w a rd s th e v e s s e ls o r s e t le m e n ts o f a n y n a tio n w ith w h ic h w e m a y
b e a t w a r, a s e x p e d itio n s e m p lo y e d in b e h a lf o f d is c o v e ry a n d s c ie n c e h a v e
a lw a y s b e e n c o n s id e re d b y a l
c iv ilis e d c o m m u n itie s a s a c tin g u n d e r a g e n e ra l
s a fe g u a rd .
Yo u w il
c o n s id e r y o u rs e lf u n d e r th e c o m m a n d o f R e a r-A d m ira l In g le fie ld , th e
C o m m a n d e r-in -C h ie f o f H e r M a je s ty 's
s h ip s
a n d
v e s s e ls
o n
th e
E a s t In d ia
s ta tio n , w h ile y o u a re w ith in th e lim its o f th a t s ta tio n ; a n d w e h a v e s ig n ifie d to
h im o u r d e s ire th a t h e s h o u ld n o t d iv e rt y o u fro m th e s u rv e y, n o r in te rfe re w ith
y o u r p ro c e e d in g s , e x c e p t u n d e r th e p re s s u re o f s tro n g n e c e s s ity ; a n d th a t u p o n
a l
fit
o c c a s io n s
h e
s h o u ld
o rd e r
y o u
to
b e
s u p p lie d
w ith
th e
s to re s
a n d
p ro v is io n s o f w h ic h y o u m a y s ta n d in n e e d ; a n d a l
o f ic e rs s e n io r to y o u rs e lf,
w ith w h o m
y o u m a y fa l
in , a re h e re b y d ire c te d to g iv e y o u a n y a s s is ta n c e
w h ic h m a y b e re q u is ite .
N o tw ith s ta n d in g
th e
1 6 th
a rtic le
o f th e
4 th
s e c tio n
o f th e
6 th
c h a p te r o f th e
A d m ira lty In s tru c tio n s , y o u a re , b e s id e s y o u r re p o rts to y o u r C o m m a n d e r-in -
C h ie f, to s e n d b rie f a c c o u n ts to o u r S e c re ta ry o f y o u r p ro c e e d in g s , s ta te , a n d
c o n d itio n : a n d y o u w il
m a k e k n o w n to h im , in d u e tim e , th e n a tu re a n d q u a n tity
o f a n y s u p p lie s o f w h ic h y o u m a y b e a b s o lu te ly in w a n t, a n d w h ic h m a y h a v e to
b e fo rw a rd e d to y o u fro m E n g la n d .
W ith o u r H y d ro g ra p h e r y o u a re b y e v e ry o p p o rtu n ity in y o u r p o w e r to k e e p u p a
c o n s ta n t
c o r e s p o n d e n c e ;
y o u
a re
to
re p o rt
to
h im
in
fu l
d e ta il
a l
y o u r
p ro c e e d in g s ; a n d y o u a re to tra n s m it to h im , w h e n e v e r p o s s ib le , tra c in g s o f a l
c h a rts
a n d
p la n s
th a t
y o u
m a y
h a v e
c o m p le te d ,
a c c o m p a n ie d
b y
s a ilin g
d ire c tio n s , a n d w ith n o tic e s o f a n y fa c ts o r d is c o v e rie s w h ic h m a y b e o f in te re s t
to n a v ig a tio n .
H a v in g
c o m p le te d
th e
s e rv ic e
h e re in
s e t
fo rth ,
y o u
a re
to
re tu rn
in
th e
R a t le s n a k e ,
a lo n g
w ith
th e
B ra m b le ,
to
S p ith e a d ,
w h e n
y o u
w il
re c e iv e
d ire c tio n s fo r y o u r fu rth e r p ro c e e d in g s . If th e B ra m b le s h o u ld , h o w e v e r, b y th a t
tim e b e in a n u n fit s ta te to u n d e rta k e th e v o y a g e to E u ro p e , it m a y p e rh a p s b e
p ru d e n t to d is p o s e o f h e r, u n d e r th e s a n c tio n o f th e C o m m a n d e r-in -C h ie f.
In th e e v e n t o f a n y u n fo rtu n a te a c c id e n t b e fa l in g y o u rs e lf, th e o f ic e r o n w h o m
th e c o m m a n d m a y in c o n s e q u e n c e d e v o lv e , is h e re b y re q u ire d a n d d ire c te d to
c a r y o u t, a s fa r a s in h im lie s , th e fo re g o in g o rd e rs a n d in s tru c tio n s .
G iv e n u n d e r o u r h a n d s , th is 1 s t D e c e m b e r 1 8 4 6 .
S ig n e d :
C H A R L E S A D A M .
J N O . D . D U N D A S .
T o O W E N S T A N L E Y , E s q u ire ,
C a p ta in
o f
h e r
M a je s ty 's
S u rv e y in g
Ve s s e l
R a t le s n a k e ,
a t
P ly m o u th ,
B y
c o m m a n d o f th e ir L o rd s h ip s ,
S ig n e d : H .G . W A R D .
H Y D R O G R A P H E R 'S IN S T R U C T IO N S .
In c o n n e c tio n w ith th e p re c e d in g g e n e ra l in s tru c tio n s to C a p ta in S ta n le y, it w il
b e n e c e s s a ry to g iv e a p o rtio n o f th o s e m o re e x p lic it d ire c tio n s fu rn is h e d b y th e
H y d ro g ra p h e r, R e a r-A d m ira l S ir F ra n c is B e a u fo rt.
E X T R A C T S
F R O M
H Y D R O G R A P H IC
IN S T R U C T IO N S
F O R
C A P TA IN
S T A N L E Y .
O n
y o u r
a r iv a l
a t
S y d n e y
y o u
s h o u ld
ta k e
th e
e a rlie s t
o p p o rtu n ity
o f
c o m m u n ic a tin g
w ith
L ie u te n a n t Yu le , in
o rd e r to
le a rn
h o w
m u c h
h a s b e e n
e x e c u te d , b y th e B ra m b le a n d h e r te n d e r, o f th e o rd e rs w h ic h h e re c e iv e d fro m
C a p ta in B la c k w o o d , a n d y o u w il
n o d o u b t a v a il y o u rs e lf o f h is lo n g e x p e rie n c e
in th o s e s e a s in d ig e s tin g y o u r p la n o f fu tu re o p e ra tio n s .
A le t e r fro m th e C o lo n ia l O f ic e h a v in g re c e n tly a p p ris e d th e ir L o rd s h ip s th a t it
is th e in te n tio n o f h e r M a je s ty 's G o v e rn m e n t to fo rm a n e w s e t le m e n t a t H e rv e y
B a y, a n d h a v in g re q u e s te d th a t it m a y b e d u ly e x a m in e d w ith th a t v ie w , y o u r
firs t u n d e rta k in g , a fte r le a v in g S y d n e y, s h o u ld b e to re p a ir to th a t p la c e , a n d to
m a k e
a n
e f ic ie n t s u rv e y
o f th e
w h o le
b a y, e x te n d in g
it d o w n
th ro u g h
th e
c h a n n e l in to W id e B a y, a n d m a rk in g th e b e s t a n c h o ra g e s , th e m o s t c o n v e n ie n t
la n d in g -p la c e s , a n d th e s e v e ra l p a rts w h e re w a te r m a y b e fo u n d . A n d a s it
a p p e a rs th a t C o lo n e l B a rn e y, R .E . is e n g a g e d in th e s a m e in q u iry, it w il
b e
p ru d e n t to a c t in c o n c e rt w ith h im , a n d to g iv e h im a c o p y o f s u c h p a rts o f it a s
m a y s u it h is p u rp o s e s .
In y o u r w a y to th is d is tric t, a n d in d e e d o n e v e ry p a rt o f th e s h o re s o f A u s tra lia ,
y o u s h o u ld lo s e n o fa ir o p p o rtu n ity o f v e rify in g th e p o s itio n s - o f m u ltip ly in g th e
s o u n d in g s - a n d o f im p ro v in g th e s m a l e r d e ta ils o f th e c o a s t a s la id d o w n b y
C a p ta in P.P. K in g in h is e x c e l e n t S u rv e y, b u t w h ic h h e h a d n o t tim e o r m e a n s
to e f e c t w ith th e s a m e a c c u ra c y th a t w il
b e in y o u r p o w e r. B y c a r y in g o n th is
s y s te m o f c o r e c tio n a n d im p ro v e m e n t in o u r p re s e n t c h a rts fro m H e rv e y B a y
a lo n g
th e
n a r o w
n a v ig a tio n
w h ic h
is
g e n e ra l y
k n o w n
b y
th e
n a m e
o f th e
In s h o re P a s s a g e , b e tw e e n th e c o a s t a n d th e B a r ie r R e e fs , a v e ry g re a t b e n e fit
w il
b e c o n fe r e d o n th o s e m a s te rs o f v e s s e ls w h o w o u ld b e th e m o re re a d ily
in c lin e d to a d o p t th a t c h a n n e l, if c e rta in p a rts o f it w e re s o c le a rly d e lin e a te d ,
a n d
th e
s o u n d in g s
s o
s p re a d
o n
e ith e r s id e
o f th e
tra c k s , th a t th e y
c o u ld
s o m e tim e s c o n tin u e u n d e r s a il d u rin g th e n ig h t. H o w e v e r n e c e s s a ry it w a s , a n d
is , to c o n trib u te a s m u c h a s p o s s ib le to th e s a fe ty o f th o s e v e s s e ls w h o c h o o s e
th e o u te r v o y a g e b y th e B a r ie r R e e fs , it is n o t th e le s s o u r d u ty to fa c ilita te th e
n a v ig a tio n o f th e In s h o re P a s s a g e to a l
v e s s e ls w h o p re fe r its tra n q u il ity a n d
s e c u rity to th e ris k o f th e fo rm e r; a n d y o u r la b o u rs fo r th e a c c o m p lis h m e n t o f th is
o b je c t w il
p ro v e
to
b e
o f p e c u lia r im p o rta n c e
w h e n
s te a m
c o m m u n ic a tio n
b e tw e e n S in g a p o re a n d S y d n e y s h a l b e e s ta b lis h e d .
In th e g e n e ra l a n d s e a rc h in g e x a m in a tio n o f th o s e p a rts o f th e C o ra l S e a w h ic h
a re lik e ly to b e tra v e rs e d b y s h ip s s te e rin g fo r To r e s S tra it, y o u w il
b e o b lig e d
to
re g u la te
y o u r
m o v e m e n ts
b y
th e
p e rio d ic
c h a n g e s
o f
th e
w e a th e r
a n d
m o n s o o n s - p ro b a b ly b e g in n in g to w in d w a rd , a n d d ro p p in g g e n tly to le e w a rd b y
c lo s e a n d w e l -a r a n g e d tra v e rs e s , a n d b y s p re a d in g o u t y o u r th re e v e s s e ls to a
c o n v e n ie n t d is ta n c e a p a rt. T h is g re a t e x p a n s e o f s e a , w h ic h m a y b e s a id to
s tre tc h fro m L o rd H o w e 's Is la n d to N e w C a le d o n ia a n d to th e L o u is ia d e , w o u ld
n o d o u b t re q u ire m a n y y e a rs w o rk in o rd e r to a c c o m p lis h th a t o b je c t; b u t, b y
d iv id in g it in to d e fin ite z o n e s o r s q u a re s , a n d b y fu l y s iftin g th o s e w h ic h y o u
m a y
u n d e rta k e ,
a
c e rta in
q u a n tity
o f
d is tin c t
k n o w le d g e
w il
b e
g a in e d .
N a v ig a to rs in c ro s s in g th o s e z o n e s w il
th e n b e s u re o f th e ir s a fe ty, a n d fu tu re
s u rv e y o rs w il k n o w e x a c tly o n w h a t p a rts to e x p e n d th e ir la b o u rs .
In c a re fu l y e x p lo rin g th e n o rth e rn m o s t, a n d a p p a re n tly th e s a fe s t e n tra n c e fro m
th e P a c ific , w h ic h m a y b e c a l e d B lig h 's C h a n n e l, y o u w il
c o n n e c t th e is la n d s
w ith a s u rv e y o f th e c o a s t o f N e w
G u in e a , a s w e l
a s w ith th e e d g e o f th e
W a r io r
R e e f,
a n d
a s
th e re
a re
th ro u g h o u t
m o d e ra te
s o u n d in g s ,
y o u
w il
p ro b a b ly b e a b le to d ra w u p s u c h c le a r d ire c tio n s a s w il
e n a b le th e m a rin e r to
u s e
it
in
m o d e ra te
w e a th e r
b y
n ig h t,
a n d
to
b e a t
th ro u g h
it
a t
a l
tim e s .
C h a ra c te ris tic v ie w s o f th e c o a s t a n d h il s o f N e w G u in e a , a s w e l
a s o f e a c h
is la n d , b o th fro m
th e e a s tw a rd a n d w e s tw a rd , w il
g re a tly a s s is t h im
b y th e
im m e d ia te c e rta in ty o f h is la n d fa l , a n d w il
a ls o m a te ria l y a d d to y o u r m e a n s o f
g iv in g p ro p e r m a rk s a n d b e a rin g s fo r a v o id in g th e d a n g e rs .
In
To r e s
S tra it
y o u
w il
fin d
m u c h
to
d o - n o t
o n ly
h a s
a
n e w
ro c k
b e e n
d is c o v e re d in th e m id d le o f th e E n d e a v o u r C h a n n e l, b u t th e w a te r in its w e s te rn
o p e n in g is o n ly fo u r a n d a h a lf fa th o m s , a n d th e re s e e m s n o re a s o n fo r n o t
b e lie v in g th a t P rin c e o f W a le s C h a n n e l is s a fe r, e a s ie r, a n d m o re d ire c t. B u t
b e fo re w e c a n d e c id e u p o n th a t p o in t, a n a c c u ra te s u rv e y m u s t b e m a d e o f it,
th ro u g h o u t its le n g th a n d b re a d th , in c lu d in g th e a d ja c e n t is la n d s , a n d s h o w in g
th e ir a n c h o ra g e s a n d w a te rin g -p la c e s , a s w e l
a s th e n a tu re o f th e s o il, a n d th e
k in d o f tim b e r th e y p ro d u c e , a lo n g w ith a fu l in v e s tig a tio n o f th e tid e s .
T h e c o n n e c tio n o f th a t S tra it w ith B lig h 's F a re w e l
s h o u ld a ls o b e e x a m in e d , fo r
m a n y c irc u m s ta n c e s m a y re n d e r it h ig h ly n e c e s s a ry th a t th e A d m ira lty s h o u ld
b e m a d e a w a re o f w h a t m e a n s th e re a re to p a s s fro m o n e o c e a n to th e o th e r,
w ith o u t b e in g o b s e rv e d fro m C a p e Y o rk .
O n th is la t e r C a p e G o v e rn m e n t h a v e fo r s o m e tim e c o n te m p la te d a s ta tio n , a n d
it w il
th e re fo re b e v e ry d e s ira b le to fix u p o n a c o n v e n ie n t b u t s e c u re a n c h o ra g e
in its n e ig h b o u rh o o d . O u r la te s t s u rv e y s d o n o t s h o w m u c h p ro m is e o f fin d in g
s u c h a p o rt; b u t, p e rh a p s , in s id e th e re e fs b e y o n d P e a k P o in t, o r m o re lik e ly
b e tw e e n A lb a n y Is la n d a n d th e m a in , a s n u g p la c e m a y b e d is c o v e re d fo r th a t
p u rp o s e .
In tra c in g o u t th e a p p ro a c h to B lig h 's F a re w e l , y o u w il
b e le d to e x a m in e th e
s o u th e rn fa c e o f N e w G u in e a a s fa r a s C a p e Va ls c h e ; b u t a fte r v e rify in g th e
p o s itio n o f th is p o in t, it w il
b e p ru d e n t to q u it th e s h o re s o f th a t is la n d , a n d n o t
to m e d d le w ith a n y p a rt o f it o v e r w h ic h th e D u tc h c la im ju ris d ic tio n .
W h e n
y o u
h a v e
a r iv e d
a t
th is
d is ta n t
p o in t,
th e
s o u th -e a s t
m o n s o o n
w il
p ro b a b ly re n d e r it n e c e s s a ry to re p a ir to P o rt E s s in g to n fo r s u c h s u p p lie s a s
m a y b y p re v io u s a r a n g e m e n t h a v e b e e n s e n t th e re fo r y o u fro m S y d n e y ; o r
p e rh a p s
u n fo re s e e n
e v e n ts
m ig h t re n d e r
it m o re
e x p e d ie n t to
p ro c e e d
fo r
re fre s h m e n ts to s o m e o f th e is la n d s in th e A ra fu ra S e a , o r it is p o s s ib le to o n e
o f th e D u tc h s e t le m e n ts in J a v a . A n d in e ith e r o f th e s e tw o la t e r c a s e s y o u
s h o u ld m a k e a c o m p le te s u rv e y o f th e is la n d to w h ic h y o u h a v e p ro c e e d e d , o r
y o u s h o u ld s e le c t a n y o n e o f th e e a s te rn p a s s a g e s fro m B a l y to F lo ris m o s t
c o n v e n ie n t to th e o b je c t y o u h a v e in v ie w , a n d th e n la y it d o w n w ith p re c is io n .
O f th e m a n y w e l -k n o w n p a s s a g e s b e tw e e n th e in n u m e ra b le is la n d s o f th a t
g re a t A rc h ip e la g o , th e re is n o t o n e w h ic h h a s e v e r b e e n c h a rte d w ith p la u s ib le
a c c u ra c y ;
a n d
it
c a n n o t
b e
to o
s tro n g ly
im p re s s e d
o n
y o u r
m in d
th a t
h y d ro g ra p h y is b e t e r s e rv e d b y o n e a c c u ra te c h a rt th a n b y te n a p p ro x im a te
s k e tc h e s .
T h e
s e v e ra l
o b je c ts
o f th is
h ig h ly
in te re s tin g
e x p e d itio n
h a v in g
th u s
b e e n
b rie fly
e n u m e ra te d , I h a v e
o n ly
to
re m in d
y o u
th a t th e ir
L o rd s h ip s
d o
n o t
p re s c rib e to y o u th e o rd e r in w h ic h th e y a re to b e e x e c u te d , le a v in g it to y o u r
o w n p ru d e n c e , a n d to y o u r e x p e rie n c e in th o s e c lim a te s , s o to a r a n g e th e m
th a t e a c h p a rt o f y o u r s u rv e y s h a l
b e c o m p le te in its e lf, a n d th a t e a c h s te p in
y o u r p ro g re s s s h a l b e c o n d u c iv e to its s u c c e s s o r.
S ig n e d : F . B E A U F O R T ,
H Y D R O G R A P H E R .
S A IL F R O M P L Y M O U T H .
T h e R a t le s n a k e le ft S p ith e a d o n D e c e m b e r 3 rd , a n d o n th e 1 1 th to o k h e r fin a l
d e p a rtu re fro m P ly m o u th , w h ic h p la c e w e h a d c a l e d a t to c o m p le te h e r fit in g s ,
s w in g th e s h ip a s e c o n d tim e to a s c e rta in th e a m o u n t o f lo c a l a t ra c tio n , a n d
re c e iv e
s o m e
s p e c ie
fo r th e
C a p e
o f G o o d
H o p e
a n d
th e
M a u ritiu s . B e in g
fa v o u re d b y s tro n g n o rth e rly w in d s , w e re a c h e d M a d e ira o n D e c e m b e r 1 8 th ,
a fte r a q u ic k , b u t m o s t u n c o m fo rta b le p a s s a g e ; d u rin g th e g re a te r p a rt o f w h ic h
th e m a in a n d lo w e r d e c k s w e re p a rtia l y flo o d e d , o w in g to th e in e f ic ie n c y o f th e
s c u p p e rs , a n d th e le a k y s ta te o f n e a rly e v e ry p o rt a n d s c u t le in th e s h ip .
A R R IV E A T M A D E IR A .
D e c e m b e r 2 0 th .
T h e s c e n e ry o f M a d e ira h a s b e e n s o o fte n d e s c rib e d b y v o y a g e rs , w h o , fro m
C o o k d o w n w a rd s , h a v e m a d e it th e firs t s ta g e in th e ir c irc u m n a v ig a tio n o f th e
g lo b e , a s to re n d e r s u p e rflu o u s m o re th a n a fe w p a s s in g a l u s io n s . W h e n n e a r
e n o u g h to d is tin g u is h th e m in o r fe a tu re s o f th e is la n d , th e te r a c e d s lo p e s o f th e
m o u n ta in s id e s c o n v e rte d in to v in e y a rd s a n d g a rd e n s s tu d d e d w ith th e h u ts o f
th e p e a s a n try, p re s e n te d a p le a s in g a s p e c t to v is ito rs , w h o m a w e e k 's s a ilin g
h a d
b ro u g h t
fro m
th e
s n o w -c la d
s h o re s
o f
E n g la n d .
H e re
a n d
th e re
a
w h ite w a s h e d
c h a p e l
o r
p ic tu re s q u e
v il a
le n t
a
c h a rm
to
th e
s c e n e ry
b y
c o n tra s tin g s tro n g ly w ith th e p a tc h e s o f g re e n u p o n th e s lo p e s , th e d e e p b lu e o f
th e o c e a n , a n d th e d e lic a te w h ite o f th e e v e r-c h a n g in g c lo u d s o f m is t w h ic h
ro l e d in c e s s a n tly a lo n g , w h ile th e ru g g e d s u m m it o f th e is la n d , a n d th e d e e p
ra v in e s ra d ia tin g to w a rd s th e c o a s t-ra n g e o f p re c ip ito u s c lif s , g a v e a n a ir o f
w ild n e s s to th e s c e n e .
F U N C H A L .
T h e to w n o f F u n c h a l, s a id to c o n ta in a b o u t 2 5 ,0 0 0 in h a b ita n ts , is s itu a te d u p o n
th e s lo p e o f a n a m p h ith e a tre o f h il s , b e h in d th e o n ly a n c h o ra g e o f th e is la n d .
T h e fin e s t v ie w is o b ta in e d fro m th e b a lc o n y o f a c h u rc h d e d ic a te d to N o s s a
S e n h o ra d e M o n te , s itu a te d a t a c o n s id e ra b le e le v a tio n a b o v e th e to w n . H e re
o n e
lo o k s
d o w n
u p o n
th e
n u m e ro u s
q u in ta s
a n d
c o t a g e s
o f th e
s u b u rb s
e m b o s o m e d
in
g a rd e n s
a n d
v in e y a rd s ,
th e
o ra n g e
g ro v e s
a n d
c lu m p s
o f
c h e s tn u t tre e s , th e s n o w -w h ite h o u s e s o f F u n c h a l w ith its c h u rc h e s a n d p u b lic
b u ild in g s , th e c ita d e l fro w n in g o v e r th e to w n , th e c a lm w a te rs o f th e b a y w ith
th e v e s s e ls a t a n c h o r g e n tly h e a v in g to a n d fro o n th e lo n g w e s te rly s w e l , th e
Ilh e o ro c k a n d b a t e rie s , th e b o ld h e a d la n d s , a n d th e d im o u tlin e o f th e d is ta n t
D e s e rta s . S o m e o f th e s tre e ts a re p le a s a n tly s h a d e d b y ro w s o f p la n e -tre e s
(P la ta n u s o c c id e n ta lis ). S e v e ra l d e e p
ra v in e s p a s s in g
th ro u g h
th e
to w n
a re
c a re fu l y
w a l e d
in ,
to
p re v e n t
d a m a g e
b e in g
d o n e
b y
th e
to r e n ts
w h ic h
o c c a s io n a l y s w e e p d o w n th e m o u n ta in , c a r y in g e v e ry th in g b e fo re th e m . F ro m
th e s te e p n e s s o f th e n a r o w ro a d s a n d s tre e ts , w h e e le d v e h ic le s c a n s c a rc e ly
b e u s e d , a n d s le d g e s d ra w n b y s m a l
b u l o c k s s u p p ly th e ir p la c e , w h ile th e
w in e , th e c h ie f a rtic le o f e x p o rt, is c o n v e y e d in to th e to w n in g o a t-s k in s c a r ie d
o n th e s h o u ld e r.
V IS IT T O C U R R A L .
D e c e m b e r 2 3 rd .
F e w s tra n g e rs re m a in lo n g in M a d e ira w ith o u t p a y in g a v is it to th e C u r a l, a n d a
la rg e p a rty o f u s le ft th e s h ip fo r th a t p u rp o s e th is m o rn in g . A t firs t th e ro a d le d
th ro u g h
a
s e rie s
o f n a r o w
la n e s
fre q u e n tly
s e p a ra te d
fro m
th e
fie ld s
a n d
v in e y a rd s
o n
e ith e r
s id e
b y
h e d g e s
o f
ro s e s ,
h o n e y s u c k le ,
ja s m in e
a n d
fu c h s ia s ; n o w a n d th e n p a s s in g u n d e r s u c c e s s io n s o f tre l is -w o rk c o v e re d b y
th e v in e s w h e n in fu l
v ig o u r, a n d th e n fo rm in g lo n g s h a d y v is ta s . F o r s e v e ra l
m ile s w e w o u n d o u r w a y a lo n g th e h il s id e s , d o w n d e e p ra v in e s , a n d u p s te e p
ro c k y s lo p e s . In s p ite o f th e ru g g e d n e s s o f th e p a th , o u r h o rs e s p ro g re s s e d w ith
w o n d e rfu l a la c rity, a lth o u g h o c c a s io n a l y im p e d e d b y th e a d d itio n a l w e ig h t o f
th e a t e n d a n t b u r o q u e ro s h o ld in g o n b y th e ta il, a n d la u g h in g a t o u r e f o rts to
d is lo d g e
th e m . O n
re a c h in g
th e
s h o u ld e r o f o n e
o f th e
h il s , w e
fo u n d
th e
ra v in e s a n d v a l e y s b e lo w u s fil e d w ith d e n s e m is t. H e re , a t a n e le v a tio n o f
2 5 0 0
fe e t, a
s p e c ie s
o f s p ru c e -lik e
p in e
a p p e a re d
to
th riv e
w e l . T h e
p a th ,
w h ic h a t tim e s is n o t m o re th a n th re e fe e t w id e , n o w w in d s a lo n g th e s id e s o f
th e m o u n ta in w ith m a n y s h a rp tu rn in g s ; h e a d in g n u m e ro u s ra v in e s , th e frig h tfu l
n a tu re o f w h ic h w a s p a rtia l y c o n c e a le d b y th e o b s c u rity o f th e m is t.
W e h a lte d a t th e P a s s o f th e C u r a l, to w h ic h C a p ta in S ta n le y 's b a ro m e tric a l
o b s e rv a tio n s *
a s s ig n
a n
e le v a tio n
o f
2 7 0 0
fe e t
a b o v e
th e
s e a .
S h o rtly
a fte rw a rd s
th e
m is t
g ra d u a l y
d is s o lv e d ,
u n v e ilin g
th e
m a g n ific e n t
s c e n e ry
b e lo w a n d a ro u n d . T h e C u r a l g iv e s o n e th e id e a o f a v a s t c ra te r*
o f ir e g u la r
fo rm , s u r o u n d e d b y a ru g g e d w a l
(u p w a rd s o f a th o u s a n d fe e t in h e ig h t) o f
g re y w e a th e r-b e a te n ro c k c u t d o w n in to w ild p re c ip ic e s , in te rs e c te d b y ra v in e s
a n d s lo p e s o f d e b ris m ix e d u p w ith m a s s e s o f c ru m b lin g ro c k , a n d to w e rin g
u p w a rd s in to fa n ta s tic p e a k s . A w in d in g p a th le a d s to th e b o t o m - a s m a l
fe rtile
v a l e y w a te re d b y a s tre a m le t w h ic h le a v e s it b y a d e e p g o rg e o n th e le ft, a n d
fo rm s a p ic tu re s q u e w a te rfa l
o n its w a y to th e s e a . T h e s c a t e re d ru s tic h u ts
a n d s n o w -w h ite c h a p e l o f th e C u r a l c o m p le te th e p ic tu re o f th is p e a c e fu l a n d
s e c lu d e d s p o t, b u rie d in th e v e ry h e a rt o f th e m o u n ta in s .
(*Footnote. The height of the Pico dos Bodes, determined in the usual way
by the mountain barometer, was found by Lieutenant Dayman to be 3677
feet; his observations on the magnetic dip and intensity (for which see the
Appendix) are interesting, as showing a great amount of local at raction at
the summit.)
(* Footnote. There
is reason
to
suppose
the
Cur al to
have
been
the
principal, although not the only centre of that submarine volcanic action,
during the continuance of which Madeira first emerged from the sea, an
event, which the evidence af orded by the limestone fossils of St. Vincente
(on the north side of the island) associates with the tertiary epoch. See
Paper
by Dr. J. Macaulay in
Edinburgh
New
Philosophical Journal for
October 1840.)
A lth o u g h
it
is
n o w
th e
m id d le
o f
w in te r,
to d a y 's
e x c u rs io n
a f o rd e d
m a n y
s u b je c ts
o f in te re s t to
a
n a tu ra lis t. S o m e
b e a u tifu l fe rn s , o f w h ic h
e v e n
th e
c o m m o n e s t o n e (A d ia n tu m c a p il u s -v e n e ris ) w o u ld h a v e b e e n m u c h p riz e d b y
a n E n g lis h b o ta n is t a s a v e ry ra re B ritis h s p e c ie s , o c c u r e d o n th e d rip p in g
ro c k s
b y
th e
ro a d s id e , a n d
m a n y
w ild
p la n ts
w e re
in
flo w e r o n
th e
lo w e r
g ro u n d s .
E v e n
b u t e rflie s
o f
th re e
k in d s ,
tw o
o f
w h ic h
(C o lia s
e d u s a
a n d
C y n th ia c a rd u i) a re a ls o fo u n d in B rita in , o c c u r e d , a lth o u g h in s m a l
n u m b e rs ,
a n d a t th e P a s s o f th e C u r a l c o le o p te ra o f th e g e n e ra P im e le a a n d S c a rite s ,
w e re m e t w ith u n d e r s to n e s a lo n g w ith m in u te la n d s h e l s , B u lim u s lu b ric u s ,
C la u s ilia d e lto s to m a , a n d a P u p a .
L E A V E M A D E IR A .
A fte r a s ta y o f e ig h t d a y s , w e le ft M a d e ira fo r R io d e J a n e iro , a n d o n J a n u a ry
2 n d p ic k e d u p th e s o u th -e a s t tra d e w in d , a n d p a s s e d th ro u g h th e C a p e d e
Ve rd e
Is la n d s
to
th e
s o u th w a rd
b e tw e e n
M a y o
a n d
S t.
J a g o .
Tw o
d a y s
a fte rw a rd s , in la titu d e 9 d e g re e s 3 0 m in u te s N o rth , a n d lo n g itu d e 2 2 d e g re e s
4 0 m in u te s W e s t, a s lig h t m o m e n ta ry s h o c k , s u p p o s e d to b e th e e f e c t o f a n
e a rth q u a k e , w a s fe lt th ro u g h o u t th e s h ip .
T R Y F O R D E E P -S E A S O U N D IN G S .
O n th e 1 1 th a n a t e m p t w a s m a d e to s trik e d e e p -s e a s o u n d in g s , b u t fa ile d fro m
th e
d ra w in g
o f
a
s p lic e
u s e d
to
c o n n e c t
tw o
p o rtio n s
o f
th e
s p u n -y a rn
e m p lo y e d . O n th e fo l o w in g d a y th e a t e m p t w a s re p e a te d b y C a p ta in S ta n le y,
u n s u c c e s s fu l y, h o w e v e r, n o b o t o m h a v in g b e e n o b ta in e d a t a d e p th o f 2 4 0 0
fa th o m s . S til
a re c o rd o f th e e x p e rim e n t m a y b e c o n s id e re d in te re s tin g . A t th re e
P.M ., w h e n
n e a rly
b e c a lm e d
in
la titu d e
1
d e g re e
N o rth , a n d
lo n g itu d e
2 2
d e g re e s
3 0
m in u te s
W e s t (a
fe w
h o u rs
p re v io u s
to
m e e tin g
th e
s o u th -e a s t
tra d e ) th e s e c o n d c u t e r w a s lo w e re d w ith 2 6 0 0 fa th o m s o f lin e (s ix y a rn s p u n -
y a rn ) in h e r, c o ile d in c a s k s , a n d a w e ig h t c o n s is tin g o f tw e lv e 3 2 p o u n d s s h o t-
in a l , 3 8 4 p o u n d s , s e c u re d in a n e t b a g o f s p u n y a rn . T h e jo l y -b o a t w a s in
a t e n d a n c e to to w th e c u t e r a s fa s t to w h irlw in d a s s h e d rifte d , s o a s to k e e p th e
lin e d u rin g th e tim e it w a s ru n n in g o u t a s n e a rly u p a n d d o w n a s p o s s ib le . T h e
fo l o w in g ta b le s h o w s w h e n e a c h 1 0 0 fa th o m s p a s s e d o v e r th e s te rn , th e w h o le
2 4 0 0 fa th o m s o f lin e h a v in g ta k e n 3 8 m in u te s a n d 4 0 s e c o n d s to ru n o u t:
COLUMN 1: FATHOM MARK.
COLUMN 2: TIME OF PASSING (IN MINUTES AND SECONDS).
100 : 1 0.
200 : 2 5.
300 : 2 30.
400 : 3 35.
500 : 5 0.
600 : 6 15.
700 : 7 35.
800 : 9 0.
900 : 10 35.
1000 : 12 40.
1100 : 13 30.
1200 : 15 10.
1300 : 17 5.
1400 : 19 0.
1500 : 20 50.
1600 : 22 30.
1700 : 24 25.
1800 : 26 30.
1900 : 29 10.
2000 : 31 0.
2100 : 32 55.
2200 : 35 0.
2300 : 36 55.
2400 : 38 40.
C R O S S IN G T H E L IN E .
T h e fo re n o o n o f J a n u a ry 1 3 th w a s e m p lo y e d in th e p e rfo rm a n c e o f th e u s u a l
c e re m o n ie s o n c ro s s in g th e lin e , a c u s to m n o w h a p p ily fa l in g in to d e s u e tu d e - I
a l u d e to it m e re ly fo r th e p u rp o s e o f m e n tio n in g its u n fo rtu n a te c o n s e q u e n c e s
in th e p re s e n t in s ta n c e ; fo r, a lth o u g h th e w h o le p ro c e e d in g w a s c o n d u c te d w ith
th e g re a te s t g o o d h u m o u r, w e h a d s o o n a fte rw a rd s to la m e n t th e o c c u r e n c e o f
a fa ta l c a s e o f p le u ris y, b e s id e s a n o th e r s c a rc e ly le s s s e v e re , b e lie v e d b y th e
m e d ic a l o f ic e rs to h a v e b e e n in d u c e d b y fo rc ib le a n d c o n tin u e d s u b m e rs io n in
w h a t is te c h n ic a l y c a l e d th e p o n d , o n e p a rt o f th e p e rfo rm a n c e w h ic h n o v ic e s
a re o b lig e d to s u b m it to d u rin g th e s e m a rin e S a tu rn a lia .
T h e
m o s t
in te re s tin g
o c c u r e n c e
in
n a tu ra l
h is to ry
d u rin g
th e
p a s s a g e ,
in
a d d itio n to th e u s u a l a c c o m p a n im e n ts o f fly in g fis h , d o lp h in s , p h y s a lia e a n d
v e le l a e , w a s o u r fin d in g , in th e n e ig h b o u rh o o d o f th e e q u a to r, c o n s id e ra b le
n u m b e rs o f a ra re B ritis h b ird , T h a la s s id ro m a le a c h i , a s p e c ie s o f s to rm -p e tre l,
n o t b e fo re k n o w n to e x te n d its ra n g e to th e tro p ic s ; it w a s d is trib u te d b e tw e e n
th e tro p ic o f C a n c e r a n d la titu d e 5 d e g re e s S o u th .
A s
w e
a p p ro a c h e d
th e
S o u th
A m e ric a n
c o a s t, th e
ra te s
o f s e v e ra l
o f o u r
s e v e n te e n c h ro n o m e te rs (fifte e n G o v e rn m e n t a n d tw o p riv a te o n e s ) w e re fo u n d
to
h a v e
s tra n g e ly a lte re d , th u s re d u c in g
th e
v a lu e
o f o u r m e rid ia n
d is ta n c e
b e tw e e n M a d e ira a n d R io ; th is e f e c t w a s a s c rib e d to th e firin g o f s h o t e d g u n s
w h e n e x e rc is in g a t g e n e ra l q u a rte rs , a p ra c tic e w h ic h in c o n s e q u e n c e w a s n o t
a fte rw a rd s re p e a te d .
R IO D E J A N E IR O .
J a n u a ry 2 3 rd .
I s h a l
n o t s o o n fo rg e t m y firs t v ie w o f th e s h o re s o f th e n e w w o rld . T h e m o rn in g
w a s b e a u tifu l y fin e , a n d w ith a lig h t b re e z e s c a rc e ly s u f ic ie n t to c a u s e a rip p le
o n th e w a te r, w e w e re s lip p in g p a s t th e h ig h a n d re m a rk a b le p ro m o n to ry o f
C a p e F rio , w h ic h a t firs t a p p e a re d lik e a n is la n d . A lo n g b e a c h o f g lit e rin g s a n d
s tre tc h e d a w a y to th e w e s tw a rd , a n d w a s lo s t in th e d is ta n c e ; b e h in d th is a s trip
o f u n d u la tin g c o u n try, c la d h e re a n d th e re in th e ric h e s t g re e n , w a s b a c k e d b y a
ra n g e
o f
d is ta n t
w o o d e d
h il s ,
o n
w h ic h
m a n y
c lu m p s
o f
p a lm s
c o u ld
b e
d is tin g u is h e d . F e w
h a rb o u rs in th e w o rld p re s e n t a m o re im p o s in g e n tra n c e
th a n th a t o f R io d e J a n e iro . S e v e ra l is la n d s lie o f
th e o p e n in g , a n d o n e ith e r
s id e th e c o a s t ra n g e te rm in a te s in b ro k e n h il s a n d rid g e s o f g ra n ite , o n e o f
w h ic h , P a o d 'A c u c a r, th e S u g a rlo a f o f th e E n g lis h , ris e s a t o n c e fro m n e a r th e
w a te r's e d g e to th e h e ig h t o f 9 0 0 fe e t, a s a n a p p a re n tly in a c c e s s ib le p e a k , a n d
fo rm s th e w e l -k n o w n la n d m a rk fo r th e e n tra n c e .
P a s s in g th e n a r o w s (w h e re th e w id th is a m ile a n d a q u a rte r) s tro n g ly g u a rd e d
b y fo rtific a tio n s , o f w h ic h F o rt S a n ta C ru z , a n e x te n s iv e w o rk , w ith s e v e ra l tie rs
o f g u n s o c c u p y in g a ro c k y p o in t, is th e p rin c ip a l, th e h a rb o u r w id e n s o u t w ith
b e a u tifu l
s a n d y
b a y s
o n
e ith e r
s id e ,
a n d
ro c k y
h e a d la n d s
c o v e re d
w ith
lu x u ria n t v e g e ta tio n . H e re th e v ie w o f th e c ity o f R io d e J a n e iro is m a g n ific e n t.
T h e g la re o f th e re d -tile d b u ild in g s , w h ite w a s h e d o r p a in te d y e l o w , is re lie v e d
b y th e v a rie d b e a u ty o f th e s u b u rb s a n d g a rd e n s , a n d th e n u m e ro u s w o o d e d
e m in e n c e s
c ro w n e d
b y
c h u rc h e s
a n d
o th e r
c o n s p ic u o u s
p u b lic
e d ific e s .
B e y o n d
th e
c ity
th e
h a rb o u r a g a in
w id e n s
o u t to
fo rm
a n
im m e n s e
b a s in ,
s tu d d e d w ith g re e n is la n d s , e x te n d in g b a c k w a rd s s o m e s e v e n te e n o r e ig h te e n
m ile s
fu rth e r to w a rd s
th e
fo o t o f th e
O rg a n
M o u n ta in s , re m a rk a b le
fo r th e ir
p in n a c le d s u m m its , th e h ig h e s t o f w h ic h a t a in s a n e le v a tio n o f 7 8 0 0 fe e t a b o v e
th e s e a .
T h e h a rb o u r p re s e n te d a b u s y s c e n e fro m o u r a n c h o ra g e . T h e w a te r w a s a liv e
w ith s m a l
c ra ft o f e v e ry d e s c rip tio n , fro m th e la rg e fe lu c c a -rig g e d b o a t d o w n to
th e
fis h in g
c a n o e
s im p ly
c o n s tru c te d
o f a
h o l o w e d -o u t lo g , a n d
s te a m e rs
c ro w d e d w ith p a s s e n g e rs p lie d b e tw e e n th e c ity a n d th e o p p o s ite s h o re . T h e
s e a b re e z e
d ie d
a w a y, a n d
w a s
s u c c e e d e d
b y
a
s u ltry
c a lm ; a fte r a
s h o rt
in te rv a l, th e g ra te fu l la n d w in d , la d e n w ith s w e e t o d o u rs , a d v a n c e d a s a d a rk
lin e s lo w ly s te a lin g a lo n g th e s u rfa c e o f th e w a te r, a n d th e d e e p b o o m o f th e
e v e n in g g u n e c h o in g fro m h il
to h il
m a y b e s a id a p p ro p ria te ly to h a v e c lo s e d
th e s c e n e .
C IT Y O F R IO A N D IT S N E IG H B O U R H O O D .
L a n d in g
a t
th e
L a rg o
d o
P a c o ,
o r
p a la c e
s q u a re ,
m y
firs t
fa v o u ra b le
im p re s s io n s
o f th e
c ity
o f R io
d e
J a n e iro
w e re
s o m e w h a t le s s e n e d
b y
th e
s te n c h a ris in g fro m o f a l o n th e b e a c h , a n d th e v ic in ity o f th e m a rk e t, u n d e r th e
c o n jo in e d in flu e n c e o f a p e rfe c t c a lm a n d a te m p e ra tu re o f 9 0 d e g re e s in th e
s h a d e . T h e p a la c e , n o w u s e d b y th e e m p e ro r o n ly o n c o u rt d a y s , h a s tw o s id e s
o f th e la rg e ir e g u la r s q u a re in w h ic h it is s itu a te d , o c c u p ie d b y s h o p s a n d o th e r
p riv a te b u ild in g s . C lo s e b y is th e m a rk e t, w h ic h th e s tra n g e r, e s p e c ia l y if a
n a tu ra lis t, w il
d o w e l
to v is it. T h e v a rie ty o f fru its a n d v e g e ta b le s is g re a t, th a t
o f fis h s c a rc e ly le s s s o . O n th e m u d d y s h o re in th e b a c k g ro u n d , th e fis h in g
c a n o e s a re d ra w n u p o n th e ir a r iv a l to d is c h a rg e th e ir c a rg o e s , c h ie fly a t th is
tim e c o n s is tin g o f a k in d o f s p ra t a n d a n a n c h o v y w ith a b ro a d la te ra l s ilv e ry
b a n d . B a s k e ts
o f la n d
c ra b s
c o v e re d
w ith
b la c k
s lim y
m u d , o f h a n d s o m e
L u p e a e , a n d th e la rg e w e l -fla v o u re d p ra w n s , c a l e d C a m e ro o n s , a re s c a t e re d
a b o u t, a n d e v e n s m a l
s h a rk s (Z y g a e n a e , e tc .) a n d c u t le fis h a re e x p o s e d fo r
s a le .
T h e s tre e ts , w h ic h , w ith fe w e x c e p tio n s , a re v e ry n a r o w , a re p a v e d w ith la rg e
ro u g h
s to n e s - th e y
h a v e
u s u a l y
a
g u t e r in
th e
c e n tre , a n d
o c c a s io n a l y
a
n a r o w
p a v e m e n t o n
e a c h
s id e . F o r
b u ild in g
p u rp o s e s , u n h e w n
g ra n ite
is
c h ie fly u s e d , th e w a l s b e in g a fte rw a rd s s m o o th e d o v e r w ith a la y e r o f p la s te r,
w h ite w a s h e d , a n d m a rg in e d w ith y e l o w o r b lu e . T h e tw o p rin c ip a l s tre e ts a re
th e R u a D ire ita , th e w id e s t in th e c ity, a n d th e p rin c ip a l s c e n e o f c o m m e rc ia l
tra n s a c tio n s , a n d th e n a r o w R u a d o O u v id o r, fil e d w ith s h o p s , m a n y o f w h ic h
e q u a l
in
th e
ric h n e s s
a n d
v a rie ty
o f
th e ir
g o o d s
th e
m o s t
s p le n d id
e s ta b lis h m e n ts o f E u ro p e a n c a p ita ls . O f th e s e th e m o s t te m p tin g , a n d th e m o s t
d a n g e ro u s
to
e n te r
w ith
a
w e l -fil e d
p u rs e ,
is
th e
fa m o u s
fe a th e r-flo w e r
m a n u fa c to ry o f M m e . F in o t, w h e re th e g o rg e o u s p lu m a g e o f h u m m in g b ird s a n d
o th e rs o f th e fe a th e re d trib e is fa b ric a te d in to w re a th s a n d b o u q u e ts o f a l
k in d s .
A lth o u g h th e a b s e n c e o f s e w e ra g e is e v e ry w h e re a p p a re n t, th e to w n is w e l
s u p p lie d
w ith
w a te r fro m
n u m e ro u s
la rg e
fo u n ta in s , fil e d
b y
p ip e s
fro m
a n
a q u e d u c t
fiv e
o r
s ix
m ile s
in
le n g th ,
c o m m u n ic a tin g
w ith
th e
C o rc o v a d o
m o u n ta in . O n e is s tru c k w ith th e c o m p a ra tiv e a b s e n c e o f w h e e le d v e h ic le s in
th e s tre e ts o f R io . N o w a n d th e n a c lu m s y c a le c h e is d riv e n p a s t b y a n e g ro
p o s til io n , in b lu e liv e ry a n d ja c k b o o ts , rid in g a s e c o n d h o rs e y o k e d o u ts id e th e
s h a fts , a n d o m n ib u s e s d ra w n b y fo u r o r s ix m u le s , a re n o t in fre q u e n tly m e t w ith ,
a n d s e e m to b e m u c h p a tro n is e d .
M a n y o f th e w a lk s in th e n e ig h b o u rh o o d o f th e c ity a re e x c e e d in g ly b e a u tifu l;
o n e o f th e p le a s a n te s t le a d s a lo n g th e lin e o f th e a q u e d u c t. H e re th e b o ta n is t
fre s h
fro m
E u ro p e ,
w il
fin d
s u b je c ts
o f
in te re s t
a t
e v e ry
s te p ,
a n d
th e
e n to m o lo g is t
m a y
re v e l
to
h is
h e a rt's
c o n te n t
a m o n g
g a u d ily
c o lo u re d
H e lic o n ia e , H e s p e ria e , a n d
E ry c in a e , o r w a tc h
th e
la rg e r b u t e rflie s
o f th e
re s tric te d g e n u s P a p ilio , s lo w ly w in g in g th e ir la z y flig h t a m o n g th e tre e s ju s t
b e y o n d
th e
re a c h
o f
h is
in s e c t
n e t. A
c o m m o n
b u t e rfly
h e re
(P e rid ro m ia
a m p h in o m e ) h a s th e s in g u la r h a b it o f fre q u e n tin g th e tru n k s a n d lim b s o f th e
tre e s w h e re it re s ts w ith e x p a n d e d w in g s , a n d g e n e ra l y m a n a g e s a d ro itly to
s h ift its p o s itio n , a n d
e s c a p e
w h e n
s w e p t a t w ith
th e
n e t. S o m e
la rg e
d a rk
C ic a d a e a re c o m m o n a m o n g th e b ra n c h e s , a n d th e a ir o fte n re s o u n d s w ith
th e ir h a rs h g ra tin g c rie s , e s p e c ia l y to w a rd s e v e n in g . O n th e tru n k s o f v a rio u s
tre e s a lo n g th e p a th , e s p e c ia l y a th o rn y -s te m m e d B o m b a x , th e p re t y B u lim u s
p a p y ra c e u s is c o m m o n , w ith a n o c c a s io n a l B . a u ris -le p o ris , b u t I n e v e r d u rin g
m y
w a lk s
w a s
s o
fo rtu n a te
a s
to
fin d
a n y
o f th e
m o re
m a g n ific e n t o f th e
B ra z ilia n la n d s h e l s - fo r e x a m p le , B . o v a lis , a n o b le s p e c ie s , fo u r o r fiv e in c h e s
in le n g th , o f w h ic h I h a v e b o u g h t liv e s p e c im e n s in th e m a rk e t.
S o m e o f th e la n e s , in w h ic h , o n o n e o c c a s io n I lo s t m y w a y, a b o u t d u s k , w o u ld
h a v e re m in d e d m e o f th o s e o f th e s o u th o f E n g la n d o n a fin e a u tu m n a l e v e ,
w e re it n o t fo r th e s c a t e re d p a lm s a n d p a p a w tre e s in th e h e d g e ro w s , a n d th e
h e d g e s
th e m s e lv e s
o c c a s io n a l y
c o n s is tin g
o f th e
c o f e e
p la n t, c o n c e a lin g
c lu m p s o f b a n a n a a n d s u g a r-c a n e . T h e C ic a d a e w e re s in g in g th e ir e v e n in g
h y m n fro m th e b ra n c h e s o v e rh e a d , a n d in d u e tim e th e fire flie s c a m e o u t in a l
th e ir g lo ry .
D R E D G IN G IN B O T A F O G O B A Y .
I h a d lo o k e d fo rw a rd w ith e a g e r a n tic ip a tio n to th e re s u lt o f th e firs t d re d g in g o f
th e Vo y a g e . N o n e o f th e s h ip 's b o a ts c o u ld b e s p a re d , s o I h ire d o n e p u l e d b y
fo u r n e g ro s la v e s , w h o , a lth o u g h s tro n g a c tiv e fe l o w s , h a d g re a t o b je c tio n s to
s tra in in g th e ir b a c k s a t th e o a r, w h e n th e d re d g e w a s d o w n . N o s ie v e h a v in g
b e e n s u p p lie d , w e w e re o b lig e d to s ift th e c o n te n ts o f th e d re d g e th ro u g h o u r
h a n d s - a
te d io u s
a n d
s u p e rfic ia l
m o d e
o f
e x a m in a tio n .
S til
s o m e
fin e
s p e c im e n s o f a c u rio u s fla t s e a -u rc h in (E n c o p e m a rg in a ta ) a n d a fe w s h e l s ,
e n c o u ra g e d u s to p e rs e v e re . Tw o d a y s a fte r, M r. H u x le y a n d m y s e lf s e t to w o rk
in
B o ta fo g o
B a y,
p ro v id e d
w ith
a
w ire -g a u z e
m e a t
c o v e r,
a n d
a
c u rio u s
m a c h in e fo r c le a n in g ric e ; th e s e a n s w e re d c a p ita l y a s s u b s titu te s fo r s ie v e s ,
a n d e n a b le d u s b y a th o ro u g h e x a m in a tio n o f th e c o n te n ts o f th e d re d g e , to
d e te c t a b o u t fo rty -fiv e s p e c ie s o f m o l u s c a a n d ra d ia ta , s o m e o f w h ic h w e re
n e w
to s c ie n c e . A m o n g th e s e a c q u is itio n s I m a y m e n tio n a n e w
s p e c ie s o f
A m p h io x u s , a g e n u s o f s m a l
fis h e s e x h ib itin g m o re a n o m a lie s th a n a n y o th e r
k n o w n
to
ic h th y o lo g is ts , a n d
th e
lo w e s t o rg a n is a tio n
fo u n d
in
th e
c la s s ; it
s o m e w h a t re s e m b le s th e s a n d -e e ls o f B rita in in h a b its , lik e th e m m o v in g w ith
e x tra o rd in a ry ra p id ity th ro u g h th e s a n d . B y d in t o f b rib e ry a n d rid ic u le , w e h a d
a t le n g th m a n a g e d to g e t o u r b o a tm e n to w o rk to le ra b ly w e l ; a n d w h e n w e
w e re a lik e w e l
ro a s te d b y th e s u n a n d re p e a te d ly d re n c h e d , b e s id e s b e in g
tire d o u t a n d h u n g ry, th e y h a d b e c o m e q u ite s u b m is s iv e , a n d e x c h a n g e d th e ir
g ru m b lin g fo r m e r im e n t. A m o re lo v e ly s p o t c a n s c a rc e ly b e fo u n d , th a n th e
s e c lu d e d
b a y
o f B o ta fo g o
w ith
its
p re t y
v il a g e , a n d
th e
n o b le
C o rc o v a d o
m o u n ta in im m e d ia te ly b e h in d , a n d w e p a id it o th e r v is its .
S L A V E R Y .
O n e o f th e p rin c ip a l c h a ra c te ris tic s o f R io is s la v e ry. S la v e s h e re p e rfo rm th e
w o rk o f b e a s ts o f b u rd e n ; a n d in th e b u s in e s s p a rts o f th e c ity th e a t e n tio n o f a
s tra n g e r is s u re to b e a r e s te d b y g a n g s o f th e m h e a v ily la d e n , p ro c e e d in g a t a
jo g -tro t, tim in g th e ir s te p s to a m o n o to n o u s s o n g a n d th e n o is e o f a tin ra t le
fil e d w ith s to n e s , c a r ie d b y th e ir le a d e r. W h a t th e ir d o m e s tic c o n d itio n a n d
tre a tm e n t m a y b e , I k n o w n o t, b u t, a m o n g th e s la v e s o n e s e e s o u t o f d o o rs , th e
fre q u e n c y o f iro n c o l a rs ro u n d th e n e c k , a n d e v e n m a s k s o f tin , c o n c e a lin g th e
lo w e r p a rt o f th e
fa c e , a n d
s e c u re d
b e h in d
w ith
a
p a d lo c k , w o u ld
s e e m
to
in d ic a te
e x tre m e
b ru ta lity
in
th o s e
c a p a b le
o f
re s o rtin g
to
s u c h
m e a n s
o f
p u n is h m e n t. Ye t th e s e , I w a s
to ld , w e re
ra re
e x c e p tio n s , th e
B ra z ilia n s
n o t
b e in g w o rs e ta s k -m a s te rs th a n th e p e o p le o f o th e r s la v e -h o ld in g c o u n trie s - a n d
s u c h m a y b e th e c a s e .
R E L IG IO U S P R O C E S S IO N S .
W h a te v e r h e m a y th in k o f th e tru e s ta te o f re lig io u s fe e lin g , it s o o n b e c o m e s
o b v io u s
to
a
s tra n g e r
th a t
g re a t
c a re
is
ta k e n
to
c e le b ra te
th e
n u m e ro u s
fe s tiv a ls
o f
th e
C h u rc h
w ith
a l
p o s s ib le
p o m p
a n d
s p le n d o u r.
O n e
d a y
I
h a p p e n e d
to
e n c o u n te r a
p ro c e s s io n
in
h o n o u r o f S t. J a n u a riu s , th e
p a tro n
s a in t o f R io . T h e n u m b e r o f e c c le s ia s tic s ta k in g a p a rt a m o u n te d to s e v e ra l
h u n d re d s , a n d a b o d y o f m ilita ry b ro u g h t u p th e re a r. T h e s tre e ts a n d w in d o w s
w e re
c ro w d e d
w ith
p e o p le
in
th e ir h o lid a y
c o s tu m e , b a n d s
o f m u s ic
w e re
p la y in g , b e l s w e re rin g in g , flo w e rs w e re s c a t e re d a b o u t a n d s h o w e re d d o w n
fro m th e h o u s e s . T h e p ro fu s io n o f tin s e l a n d e m b ro id e ry w a s v e ry g re a t, a n d
th e
b a lc o n ie s
a n d
w in d o w s
in
th e
lin e
o f p ro c e s s io n
w e re
h u n g
w ith
ric h
b ro c a d e in a l th e c o lo u rs o f th e ra in b o w .
B R A Z IL IA N C H A R A C T E R .
A s h o rt s ta y, s u c h a s o u rs , a f o rd e d v e ry lim ite d o p p o rtu n itie s o f ju d g in g o f th e
n a tio n a l
c h a ra c te r; a n d
m y
im p re s s io n s
o n
th is
p o in t w e re , p ro b a b ly, o fte n
e r o n e o u s . T h e B ra z ilia n s a n d E n g lis h d id n o t th e n re c ip ro c a te v e ry c o rd ia l y,
o n a c c o u n t o f th e e x is tin g s ta te o f in te rn a tio n a l re la tio n s . O f la te y e a rs g re a t
a d v a n c e s a p p e a r to h a v e b e e n m a d e u p o n th e m o th e r-c o u n try, ju d g in g fro m
th e in c re a s in g lib e ra lity o f th e ir in s titu tio n s , th e e s ta b lis h m e n t o f c o m m e rc ia l
re la tio n s
a b ro a d , th e
fre e d o m
o f d is c u s s io n
a n d
in flu e n c e
o f th e
p re s s , th e
a t e n tio n p a id to p u b lic e d u c a tio n (e s p e c ia l y o f th e m id d le c la s s e s ) th e s u p p o rt
g ra n te d to lite ra tu re a n d s c ie n c e , a n d th e d e c lin in g in flu e n c e o f th e p rie s th o o d
in
s e c u la r
m a t e rs .
T h e
n a tio n a l
c h a ra c te r,
h o w e v e r,
c a n
s c a rc e ly
b e
c o n s id e re d a s fu l y fo rm e d ; th e B ra z ilia n s h a v e b e e n to o re c e n tly e m a n c ip a te d
fro m th e th ra ld o m o f a m o d ifie d d e s p o tis m to h a v e m a d e , a s y e t, a n y v e ry g re a t
p ro g re s s in d e v e lo p in g th e e le m e n ts o f n a tio n a l p ro s p e rity a n d g re a tn e s s w h ic h
th e v a s t e m p ire o f B ra z il s o a b u n d a n tly p o s s e s s e s , a n d th e fo u l b lo t o f s la v e ry,
w ith its d e b a s in g in flu e n c e , s til re m a in s u n to u c h e d .
C R O S S T H E S O U T H A T L A N T IC .
O n F e b ru a ry 2 n d w e s a ile d fro m R io fo r th e C a p e o f G o o d H o p e . T h e m o rn in g
b e in g c a lm , w e w e re to w e d o u t b y th e b o a ts o f th e s q u a d ro n u n til a lig h t a ir, th e
p re c u rs o r o f th e s e a b re e z e , s e t in . W h ile h o v e -to o u ts id e th e e n tra n c e , a h a u l o f
th e d re d g e b ro u g h t u p th e ra re Te re b ra tu la ro s e a , a n d a s m a l
s h e l
o f a n e w
g e n u s , a l ie d to R is s o a . T h e re m a in d e r o f th e d a y a n d p a rt o f th e s u c c e e d in g
o n e
w e re
s p e n t
in
a
fru itle s s
s e a rc h
fo r
a
s h o a l
s a id
to
e x is t
in
th e
n e ig h b o u rh o o d ,
to
w h ic h
C a p ta in
S ta n le y 's
a t e n tio n
h a d
b e e n
d ra w n
b y
C a p ta in B ro u g h to n , o f H .M .S . C u ra c a o .
A t o n e P.M . o f e a c h d a y, w h e n th e w e a th e r w a s fa v o u ra b le , th e s h ip w a s h o v e -
to fo r th e p u rp o s e o f o b ta in in g o b s e rv a tio n s o n th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e w a te r a t
c o n s id e ra b le
d e p th s , u n d e r th e
s u p e rin te n d e n c e
o f L ie u te n a n t D a y m a n . A s
th e s e w e re c o n tin u e d d u rin g o u r o u tw a rd v o y a g e a s fa r a s Va n D ie m e n 's L a n d ,
a n d th e n u m b e r o f o b s e rv a tio n s a m o u n te d to 6 9 , th e re s u lts w il
m o re c le a rly b e
u n d e rs to o d if e x h ib ite d in a ta b u la r fo rm , fo r w h ic h th e re a d e r is re fe r e d to th e
A p p e n d ix . "Tw o o f th e S ix e 's th e rm o m e te rs w e re a t a c h e d , o n e a t th e b o t o m o f
th e lin e o f 3 7 0 fa th o m s , th e o th e r 1 5 0 fa th o m s h ig h e r u p . T h e d e p th re c o rd e d is
th a t g iv e n b y M a s s e y 's p a te n t s o u n d in g m a c h in e . A s th e s a m e q u a n tity o f lin e
w a s a lw a y s u s e d , th e d if e re n c e o f d e p th o f e a c h d a y s h o u ld b e triflin g , v a ry in g
o n ly
in
p ro p o rtio n
to
th e
s h ip 's
d rift;
y e t
o n
s e v e ra l
o c c a s io n s
th e
d e p th
re c o rd e d b y th e m a c h in e g iv e s a s m u c h a s 1 0 0 fa th o m s s h o rt o f th e q u a n tity o f
lin e le t o u t."*
(*Footnote. Lieutenant Dayman, R.N.)
B O A T C A P S IZ E D .
W h ile e n g a g e d in s o u n d in g , a p ro c e s s w h ic h u s u a l y o c c u p ie d th re e -q u a rte rs
o f a n h o u r, a b o a t w a s a lw a y s a t m y s e rv ic e w h e n b ird s w e re a b o u t th e s h ip ,
a n d
th e
s ta te
o f th e
s e a
a d m it e d
o f g o in g
a fte r th e m - b y th is m e a n s m a n y
s p e c ie s o f p e tre ls w e re o b ta in e d fo r th e c o l e c tio n . O n o n e o f th e s e o c c a s io n s ,
o w in g to a m is ta k e in lo w e rin g th e s te rn b o a t b e fo re th e s h ip h a d q u ite lo s t h e r
w a y
th ro u g h
th e
w a te r,
o n e
o f
th e
fa l s
c o u ld
n o t
b e
u n h o o k e d
in
tim e ;
c o n s e q u e n tly th e b o a t w a s d ra g g e d o v e r o n h e r b ro a d s id e , a n d fin a l y c a p s iz e d
w ith
e ig h t p e o p le
in
h e r. S o m e
re a c h e d
o n e
o f th e
life -b u o y s , w h ic h
w a s
in s ta n tly le t g o , th e o th e rs m a n a g e d to ro l
th e b o a t o v e r a n d rig h t h e r, fu l
o f
w a te r. A l
w e re e v e n tu a l y p ic k e d u p b y th e le e w a rd q u a rte r-b o a t; th e w e a th e r
o n e , fro m th e s h o rtn e s s o f th e d a v its , w o u ld n o t c le a r th e s h ip 's s id e , b u t tu rn e d
o v e r o n h e r b ilg e , d ip p in g in th e w a te r, a n d w a s re n d e re d in e f e c tiv e w h e n m o s t
w a n te d . T h is d e fe c t in th e d a v its w a s a fte rw a rd s re m e d ie d b y th e s u b s titu tio n o f
o th e r a n d
lo n g e r o n e s , w h ic h
h a d
fo rm e rly
b e lo n g e d
to
H .M . s te a m
v e s s e l
T h u n d e rb o lt, w re c k e d a t A lg o a B a y a s h o rt tim e p re v io u s ly .
O C E A N IC B IR D S .
A m o n g m a n y in te re s tin g b ird s * p ro c u re d in th e a b o v e -m e n tio n e d m a n n e r, I m a y
a l u d e
to
P u f in u s
c in e re u s , a
E u ro p e a n
s p e c ie s
o f s h e a rw a te r, w h ic h
w a s
fo u n d
to
b e
g e n e ra l y
d is trib u te d
a c ro s s
th e
S o u th
A tla n tic
b e tw e e n
th e
m e rid ia n s o f 2 8 d e g re e s W e s t a n d 1 1 /2 d e g re e s E a s t; o n tw o s u c c e s s iv e d a y s ,
w h ile in th e n e ig h b o u rh o o d o f Tris ta n d a C u n h a , m y ria d s o f th e s e b ird s p a s s e d
th e
s h ip
to
th e
w e s tw a rd , a p p a re n tly
c o m in g
fro m
th a t is la n d . A
fe w
d a y s
a fte rw a rd s , w h ile 4 8 0 m ile s fro m th e n e a re s t la n d , w e c a u g h t a b e a u tifu l te rn
(S te rn a m e la n o rh y n c h a ) h ith e rto c o n s id e re d to b e p e c u lia r to A u s tra lia .
(*Footnote.
For
the
occur ence
of
Procel ariadae
during
our
outward
voyage,
with
a
view
to
determine
the
geographical distribution
of
the
species met with by me, see Contributions to Ornithology by Sir W. Jardine,
Bart. page 94.)
P E L A G IC A N IM A L S .
O n s e v e ra l o c c a s io n s th e to w in g n e t* p ro d u c e d a ric h h a rv e s t, e s p e c ia l y o n e
d a y
w h e n
a lm o s t b e c a lm e d
in
la titu d e
3 4
d e g re e s
4 0
m in u te s
S o u th
a n d
lo n g itu d e 4 d e g re e s W e s t. T h e s u rfa c e o f th e w a te r w a s a b s o lu te ly te e m in g
w ith m a rin e a n im a ls . O f th e s e a s m a l
P h y s a lia a n d a Ve le l a (V. e m a rg in a ta ? )
w e re
th e
m o s t
p le n tifu l.
T h e
la t e r
c u rio u s
a n im a l,
c o n s is ts
o f
a
fla t
o v a l
e x p a n s io n , a n in c h a n d a h a lf in le n g th , fu rn is h e d b e lo w w ith n u m e ro u s c ir h i
a n d a p ro b o s c id ifo rm
m o u th , a n d a b o v e w ith a n o b liq u e ly v e rtic a l c re s t, th e
w h o le o f a ric h b lu e c o lo u r w ith w h ite lin e s a n d d o ts , th e s o ft p a rts c o n c e a l a
tra n s p a re n t c a rtila g in o u s fra m e w o rk . T h e c re s t a c ts a s a tin y s a il (h e n c e th e
n a m e ) a n d c o m m u n ic a te s to th e a n im a l a s lo w ro ta to ry m o v e m e n t w h ile d riftin g
b e fo re th e w in d . Tw o k in d s o f J a n th in a e (J . g lo b o s a a n d J . e x ig u a ) m o l u s c s
w ith a fra g ile , s n a il-lik e s h e l , a n d a v e s ic u la r flo a t, w e re d riftin g a b o u t, a n d ,
to g e th e r w ith a v e ry a c tiv e , s ilv e ry -b lu e Id o te a , h a lf a n in c h lo n g , p ra y e d u p o n
th e
Ve le l a e .
A t
a n o th e r
tim e ,
a m o n g
m a n y
o th e r
p e la g ic
c ru s ta c e a ,
w e
o b ta in e d
th re e
k in d s
o f
E ric h th u s ,
a
g e n u s
re m a rk a b le
fo r
th e
g la s s y
tra n s p a re n c y
o f its
s p e c ie s , a ls o
H y a la e a
in fle x a
a n d
H . trid e n ta ta , c u rio u s
p te ro p o d o u s m o l u s c s w h ic h s w im n e a r th e s u rfa c e .
(*Footnote. Not having seen a description of this useful instrument, I may
mention that the kind used by Mr. Huxley and myself, consisted of a bag of
bunting (used for flags) two feet deep, the mouth of which is sewn round a
wooden hoop fourteen inches in diameter; three pieces of cord, a foot and
a half long, are secured to the hoop at equal intervals and have their ends
tied together. When in use the net is towed astern, clear of the ship's wake,
by a stout cord secured to one of the quarter-boats or held in the hand. The
scope of line required is regulated by the speed of the vessel at the time,
and the amount of strain caused by the partial y submerged net.)
A R R IV E A T S IM O N 'S B A Y .
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