The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria

The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria, by Ludwig Salvator This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria Author: Ludwig Salvator Translator: Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26705] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA *** Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) JEBEL EL MAGARA. THE CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR London CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY 1881 All rights reserved. PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria, by
Ludwig Salvator
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever.
You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria
Author: Ludwig Salvator
Translator: Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg
Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26705]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA ***
Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
Libraries.)
JEBEL EL MAGARA.
THE CARAVAN ROUTE
BETWEEN
EGYPT AND SYRIA
TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN
WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR
London
CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY
1881
All rights reserved.
PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.
The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig Salvator of
Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.
By his numerous travels and scientific labours, the name of this Prince has
become well known and highly appreciated among the geographers of all
nations; and only a short time ago His Imperial Highness was elected an
honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society, of whom there are but
eight others, in a total list of some 3500 Fellows.
His works of travel—comprising parts of America, Africa, and the Mediterranean
coasts—have also attracted so much attention, that their translation into the
English language seemed to be justified.
The list of these works, together with some details regarding the life of their
illustrious author, appeared in the translator's introduction to the first work
published in English;
[1]
and in referring to it the translator of the present volume
confidently expects a continuation of the friendly reception accorded to
"Levkosìa, the Capital of Cyprus."
CHEVALIER DE HESSE-WARTEGG.
German Athenæum Club,
October 1881
.
PREFACE.
Once more I had traced my way to Egypt to pass the winter there. Like every
European who makes a lengthened sojourn in that ancient but renewed land, I
was led to recall the great engineering and other achievements accomplished
within our own time, and also to consider future projects of development for
which the country seems to present so wide a scope. A great deal has been
heard of late on the subject of improved communication between Egypt and
Southern Syria. Proposals for the construction of a new harbour at Jaffa, for a
railway through the valley of the Jordan, and for harbour works at Beyrout,
exercised my mind in succession; and during my frequent walks in the beautiful
Esbekieh my thoughts were more particularly occupied with the overland route
between Syria and Egypt. Since the wanderings of the Israelites through the
desert, and the flight of the child Jesus, of how many great events have these
countries been the scenes, and what various recollections are awakened by
their names!
Former travels had rendered me familiar with both Egypt and Syria, as well as
with the different lines of communication between them, excepting the old
caravan route over Wadi el Harish, the ancient Torrens Egyptii. Bearing in mind
the
bad
harbours
and
dangerous
anchorages
of Southern
Palestine, I
speculated upon the feasibility of a railway connection round the coast, and, in
view of that object, resolved personally to examine the ground.
Many obstacles, however, presented themselves to the execution of my
intention. One of these arose from the circumstance that, since the opening of
the Suez Canal, the greater part of the traffic between Syria and Egypt is
carried on by the short water route
viâ
Jaffa and Port Said, in consequence of
which the old highway, formerly so frequented by caravans, travellers, and
pilgrims, is now deserted and forgotten. Even the cattle-dealers now prefer to
send their stock by steamer from the great export harbour of Jaffa to Alexandria,
so that only a few camel-drivers are to be met with on the once favourite route. I
therefore found it more expedient to order a caravan of horses and mules from
Jaffa to meet me in El Kantara, which I fixed upon as my starting point for the
desert. The following pages contain a narrative of the expedition, which was
undertaken in March 1878, as noted down in the tent on the evening of each
day. My investigation convinced me that the railway communication so often
dreamed of is absolutely impracticable, chiefly on account of the easily
movable character of the sands of the desert. The line would become
completely buried beneath them after every storm of any degree of violence,
and could therefore only be kept clear by constant labour and expense. Of all
proposals for the attainment of the object in question the most promising
appeared to me to be the formation of a good harbour at Beyrout, to which all
the trade of Syria might be directed by means of two railways, one along the
rich coast of Southern Syria, and the other to pass down the valley of the
Jordan. Beyrout offers greater advantages for the purpose than Jaffa, inasmuch
as the harbour works would be easier, and therefore less costly; and the town
itself, besides being far richer, already possesses established communications
with Damascus and the inland trade.
The accomplishment of this work seems to me so important in view of the
welfare and commercial development of Syria, that I cannot conclude without
expressing a wish that it may be soon undertaken under the auspices of those
Powers in whose interests it may be.
Zindis, near Trieste,
October 1879
.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
I. El Kantara
1
II. To Bir el Nus and Katya
5
III. From Katya to Bir el Abd
11
IV. From Bir el Abd to Bir el Magara
18
V. From Bir el Magara to El Harish
25
VI. El Harish
30
VII. From El Harish to Sheik el Zvoyed
47
VIII.
From Sheik el Zvoyed to
Khanyunis
52
IX. Khanyunis
57
X. From Khanyunis to Gaza
65
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
[2]
1. Jebel el Magara
Frontispiece.
2. Jebel Abou Assab
6
3. El Guja
8
4. Rumman
9
5. Katya
10
6. Sheik el Mzeyen, in Katya
12
7. Lehochomu-Melleha
18
8. Jebel el Magara (taken from El
Brej)
22
9. Koubba el Magara
23
10. Jebel el Halal (taken from Ard
el Murrah)
26
11. Wadi Abou-Sbeh
28
12. El Harish
30
13. The Bazaar of El Harish
40
14. El Harish (View on the
Northern Side)
42
15. Koubba of Nabi Gasser
44
16. El Harrouba
48
17. Melleha of Sheik el Zvoyed
50
18. Our Camp in Sheik el Zvoyed
52
19. Sager el Emir
54
20. Rafah Columns
55
21. Kala of Khanyunis
58
22. Neighbourhood of Gaza
66
23. Entrance to Bazaar, Gaza
68
[Pg 1]
THE CARAVAN ROUTE
BETWEEN
EGYPT AND SYRIA.
I.
EL KANTARA.
One of the Suez Canal Company's tugs soon took us down the canal from
Ismailia to El Kantara (the bridge), where we were to meet our caravan. Just as
we were landing we observed the first few horses of the latter crossing by the
ferry which plies between the two sides of the canal. The boat had to go over
three times to get all our animals and luggage, and we found it no easy work on
the other side to strap up all our things ready for the journey. Matters seldom go
altogether smoothly on the first day of a caravan expedition. At length a start
was made, the mules laden with our tents and luggage going on in front, and
ourselves bringing up the rear. The little hotel of El Kantara, with the few
patches of vegetation surrounding it, was the last sight we had of civilised life.
Following the telegraph posts, which mark the route from Egypt to Syria, we
then entered the rolling desert, and soon began to enjoy that feeling of freedom
which a boundless plain always inspires. Only life on the sea, with all its
wonderful charms, is to be compared to a journey through the desert. In the
midst of its vast and solitary expanse the traveller feels himself overwhelmed,
and his imagination conjures up strange forms on the far horizon. The desert is
to the Arab what the sea is to the sailor; for both, their proper element has a
permanent and irresistible attraction. Old Abou Nabout, the leader of our
caravan, rode on quietly in front, his eyes gazing steadfastly across the sandy
plain, and dreams of his youth doubtless floated through his mind as his horse
threw up clouds of sand with his hoofs.
Our first ride soon came to a pause, for instead of encamping at two hours'
distance from El Kantara, as I had ordered, the moukri (mule-driver) unpacked
our tents in a small sandy valley which we reached in half an hour only.
Knowing from experience how necessary it is to insist upon the execution of
orders once issued, especially at the commencement of a caravan journey, I
made the moukri pack up again, at which he was evidently not best pleased.
We then continued our course until we came to a shallow depression of the
sandy ground, where I directed our tents to be pitched. We travelled in a
comparatively comfortable manner, being furnished with two tents for sleeping,
and a third in which we took our meals. Besides these, we had a smaller tent
for a kitchen.
Everything was unpacked—our stores, the forage for our animals, and the
water casks. These had to pass a careful inspection by our old leader, who
repaired those which were leaky. The thirsty mules and donkeys were taken
back to El Kantara to drink, and the camels were driven to graze in the
neighbourhood, where were a few tamarisks,
Salsola echinus
,
Portulaca
, and
other plants of the desert.
Our tents were soon in order, and under their shelter we at last enjoyed our rest.
Before sunset we saw our animals return from El Kantara. Horses and mules
[Pg 2]
[Pg 3]
were then re-saddled and fastened together in a straight line to a long rope.
Their shadows, thrown by the moon upon the sand, were extremely grotesque.
We could now count them at our leisure. There were seven horses, five mules,
and three donkeys. The camels, seven in number, were allowed to wander
freely over the desert. To an inexperienced traveller their huge forms on the
vast plain, in a dark night, have the appearance of ghastly phantoms. Our
moukri and the camel-drivers had lighted a big fire, and were now stretched out
at full length around it. We had four moukri, one of whom was a Persian named
Ahsen, and two camel-drivers, Daud and Hassan, both from El Harish. We
heard Abou Nabout's voice every now and then in the kitchen tent for some
little time, but complete peace soon reigned, and it was not long before our little
camp were fast asleep.
II.
TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.
The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might have a
good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was disposed of,
and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn were still visible
upon the moving sand, but would in all probability become obliterated soon
after our departure. It was a glorious day, and we felt braced and invigorated by
the pure air of the desert. Proceeding through a uniform plain covered with
purslane bushes, we saw rising in the distance to our right, or south-east, the
Jebel Abou Assab, "Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more
elevated spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up
the canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance through
a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible), had a most singular effect, and
made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of M. De Lesseps's grand
undertaking. It was not long, however, before the highest masts disappeared
like phantoms behind the sandy waves through which our path lay. After
passing a small hillock on our right, called Gerba—"water skin," we reached an
undulating piece of ground commanding a view of the mountains above
referred to, and of the group of palms known as Zaega—"the Beautiful." At the
same time the scene was agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so
common in the desert. A beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our
left, displaying the reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even
showing with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
pasturage.
A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a little water
was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met a caravan of
people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few wretched horses and
mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two Bedouins, who applied to us for
the customary backshish.
[Pg 4]
[Pg 5]
[Pg 6]
JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.
Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and sources
of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably lean dromedary,
bearing the mails from El Harish. We learned from his rider, who, as may be
imagined, was glad enough of the company of a caravan, that the post went
each way once a week, and so kept up some degree of communication
between El Harish and the outer world. The ease with which the fleet animal
strode across the sandy ground was quite delightful to witness. Now and again
he got some distance ahead, and our horses had some difficulty in overtaking
him. The entomology, too, of the desert did not escape our attention. We
collected several specimens of
Anthia
,
Asida
,
and
Scarabæus sacer
, the
historical Scarabæus of the Egyptians.
After going slightly up hill for some distance further through the wearisome
sand, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the group of palms "El
Guja"—"the snail," at the foot of the sand-hills, towards which we turned that we
might take our lunch beneath their grateful shade. As one descends, a
charming desert scene is presented by this oasis, with the Jebel Abou Assab in
the background. As soon as we reached the spot, at half-past eleven o'clock,
we pitched our little tent, and, soothed by the gentle rustling of the breeze
through the leafy crowns of the tall and slender palms, enjoyed a delightful rest.
I afterwards made a sketch of a portion of the group (see illustration), while
Vives (one of our party) shot a couple of Calander larks and captured a snake.
Striking our tent at two o'clock, we went, before continuing our journey, to look
at the little well, which is lined with palm-stems to keep out the sand. We found
the water saline, as is usual with desert springs.
[Pg 7]
[Pg 8]
EL GUJA.
Again, proceeding upward across the sandy ground, we obtained a view on our
right of the summit of Jebel Abou Assah. Further on, we reached an extended
range of sand-hills, the tops of which had, from the action of the wind, become
as angular as though they had been cut with a knife. In every direction were to
be seen scattered about carcasses and skeletons of camels, the most recent of
which our horses passed with great reluctance. The only living creatures to be
met with in this still desert region are a few king-ravens, two of which came
within range, but we did not feel tempted to take a shot at them. To our right we
passed, at the foot of low sand-hills, another small group of palms, called by the
natives El Garabiyat—"the foreign woman," with an enclosure made by the
Bedouins for the storage of dates.
RUMMAN.
Our poor horses continued toiling along, alternately up and down hill, across
[Pg 9]
this chain of sand-hills, the sharp peaks of which stood out with remarkable
clearness against the dark blue sky. Here and there tufts of grass, called
Sabad, growing out between the sand, provide a welcome fodder for the
camels. Imposing in its wild solitude is the view backward over the desert
scene, with the palm group of Rumman—"pomegranate," to the right (see
illustration). Soon, however, to our great joy, we came upon the palm group of
Bir el Nus, signifying "Half-way Well," with a tamarisk growing near. The well
itself, the water of which is slightly saline, is placed under a small group of
palms to the left. This little oasis, situated at three-fourths of the distance from
Kantara to Katya, is an inviting resting-place, but we decided to go on; and,
continuing our progress along the well-marked road across the deep sandy
ground, reached the small palm group of Tahte—"subjacent," from which that of
El Garif may be seen to the left and that of Abou Raml to the right. These
groups of verdure form a most enlivening contrast to the dreary scene around.
From Tahte the ground gradually rises, and we soon saw over the sandy
undulations the countless palms of Katya. Upon this, our Bedouins, who were
quite exhausted from their toilsome journey through the sand and the scorching
sun, expatiated in glowing terms upon the refreshing shade and abundant
water awaiting us. We then went on through a plain and small coppice into a
kind of Melleha, or saline plain, where we could see in the distance gleaming
between the palm stems the white canvas of our tents, which we at length
reached just before dusk.
Our horses were much in need of rest after their laborious day's work, and it
may be imagined how welcome the flaming fire close to the tents was to
ourselves, and how heartily we enjoyed the evening meal which we found
ready laid for us, and the repose upon the soft outspread carpets. All around us
were encamped troops of Bedouins, the song of whose women resounded far
away in the stillness of the night.
KATYA.
III.
[Pg 10]
[Pg 11]
FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD.
We awoke in sunny Katya, a delicious oasis of the most beautiful and shady of
palms! While the tents were being packed, that they might be sent on to Bir el
Abd, I reconnoitred the immediate neighbourhood. In the middle of the zone of
palms which encircle Katya like a girdle, is an elevation covered with fragments
of tiles, between which grow numerous plants of
Sedum
, some of which are
very thick-leaved. Near an old tamarisk stands a very peculiar ruin of turret-like
appearance, called by the Arabs Burj—"castle." It is built of tiles and stones,
horizontally and vertically placed, and has a spiral staircase inside. Not far off is
a Koubba, containing a tomb, a defaced marble inscription in Arabian, and two
ancient columns, from one of which a garland hangs. The palm-leaf stalks stuck
in the ground outside indicate the sites of various graves. Scattered about are
several enclosures formed with stalks of palm leaves, for the storage of ripe
dates. The ground on which the ruin stands is picturesquely surrounded with
palms, of which there are four principal groups, the total number of trees being
perhaps 1500, for which the resident Bedouins have to pay the Government
1600 piastres a year.
In the first group of palms near the Koubba is the telegraph station, or little
house of the Arab watchmen who see to the maintenance of the telegraph
posts and wires. Behind a small hillock south of this house there is another
Koubba called Sheik el Mzeyen (see illustration), with a doorstep of apparently
old marble stone and an ornamental cupola. It is surrounded by a great number
of aloes, and contains a simple tomb. Here, too, is a burial-place, with the
graves indicated either by two stones, a piece of palm stem, or a leaf stalk, and,
in some cases, by a fragment of camel bone. From this Koubba, the palm
plantations extend southward and form a kind of festoon with the Keteya group,
which is protected on the south-west by a hill of white sand.
SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA.
In the course of our ramble we met several Bedouins, who hailed us from a
distance with a friendly Marhaba—"Welcome!" With one or two of them I
exchanged a few words. Vives meanwhile shot a beautiful tufted cuckoo
(
Cuculus glandarius
), a splendid bird, which habitually flies from the crown of
one palm to that of another, and also a brace of shrikes, or butcher birds
[Pg 12]
[Pg 13]
(
Lanius minor
), and some black and white chats (
Saxicola
).
After resting awhile under the shady palms, we resumed our journey towards
noon, passing on the way the large well of Katya. This well is the great feature
of the beautiful oasis. It is of large dimensions, lined with tiles, and provided
with a gutter or trench to conduct the water drawn to the different watering-
places. There we found a caravan from Damascus, with a number of horses
and mules in the charge of several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This
herd, together with the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the
background
of
gigantic
palms,
made
up
a
strikingly
harmonious
and
characteristic picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant
aroma of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright rays
of the morning sun.
Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric of a vision.
Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene were varied
and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of which, after a long
march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze rustled gently through the
crowns of the trees high over our heads, while we lay on the ground gazing
dreamily towards the yellowish horizon clearly defined against the deep blue
sky. All around reigned perfect stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin
women, laden with water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which
probably were at some hours' distance.
After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract, diversified only
by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding some distance reached a
gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir
el Abd. From there the road alternately rises and descends over bare sand
ridges, and then passes down a declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to
Bir el Aafin—"the stinking well," which contains but little water, and that almost
putrid. In the distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins,
who inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
caravan with horses, asses, and mules, which some Kurds were taking to
Cairo, the leader himself—a man advanced in years, wearing a green turban—
riding at their head on a handsome bay.
After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel el
Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow. To our
right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive Melleha,
overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small quantity of rain-
water. The action of this water on the soil produces an excellent salt, which the
Bedouins collect after evaporation at the beginning of the summer. The smooth
firm surface of the salty ground of the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and
Caucalis
on either side, is a welcome change to both man and beast after so
much laborious marching through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and
green, is much relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw,
with their Bedouin keepers.
Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over another
sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd—"the negro's well,"
where we were to stay the night. The place had also been chosen by some
Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late when we arrived, I
climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a sketch of the chain of the
Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun (see illustration); and we afterwards
went on to one of the cottages of the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to
give us a friendly welcome. These men are Arabs, and live there with their
families. They are provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to
enable them to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at
intervals all along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
[Pg 14]
[Pg 15]
[Pg 16]