The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics - A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student

Franklin Beech

Informations

• Publié par: chuig
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 24
• Langue: English

Extrait

Project Gutenberg's The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics
A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student
Author: Franklin Beech
Release Date: April 27, 2007 [EBook #21224]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS ***
Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Labyrinths and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
THE
DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS
A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK FOR THE DYER AND
STUDENT
BY
FRANKLIN BEECH
PRACTICAL COLOURIST AND CHEMIST
ILLUSTRATED BY FORTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS
LONDON
SCOTT, GREENWOOD & CO.
19 LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
1901
[All rights reserved]PREFACE.
In writing this little book the author believes he is supplying a want which most
Students and Dyers of Cotton Fabrics have felt—that of a small handbook
clearly describing the various processes and operations of the great industry of
dyeing Cotton.
The aim has not been to produce a very elaborate treatise but rather a book of a
convenient size, and in order to do so it has been necessary to be brief and to
omit many matters that would rightfully find a place in a larger treatise, but the
author hopes that nothing of importance has been omitted. The most modern
processes have been described in some detail; care has been taken to select
those which experience shows to be thoroughly reliable and to give good
results.
FRANKLIN BEECH.
May, 1901.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
STRUCTURE AND CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE 1
Action of Alkalies 6
Action of Acids on Cellulose 9
Action of Sulphuric Acid on Cotton 10
Action of Hydrochloric Acid 11
Action of Nitric Acid 12
Action of Oxidising Agents on Cellulose or Cotton 16

CHAPTER II.
SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON 23
Stains and Damages in Bleached Goods 50

CHAPTER III.
DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS 53
Hand Dyeing 53
Dyeing Machines 57
Dyeing, Slubbing, Sliver or Carded Cotton and Wool 58
Cop Dyeing 64

CHAPTER IV.
THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF COTTON DYEING 82
(1) Direct Dyeing 85
(2) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Metallic Salts 112
(3) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Developers 128 (4) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Couplers 139
(5) Dyeing on Tannic Mordant 147
(6) Dyeing on Metallic Mordants 156
(7) Production of Colour Direct upon Cotton Fibres 181
(8) Dyeing Cotton by Impregnation with Dye-stuff Solution 198
[Pg vi]
CHAPTER V.
DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS 208

CHAPTER VI.
DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS 225
Method of Dyeing 225

CHAPTER VII.
OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING 239
Washing, Soaping, Drying 239

CHAPTER VIII.
TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS 257

CHAPTER IX.
EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING 262
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FIG. PAGE
1. Cotton Fibre 5
1A. Cross-section of Cotton Fibre 5
2. Mercerised Cotton Fibre 7
2A. Cross-section of Mercerised Cotton Fibre 7
3. Silkified Cotton Fibre 9
3A. Cross-section of Silkified Cotton Fibre 9
4. Mather & Platt's Low-pressure Bleaching Kier 31
5. Mather & Platt's Yarn-bleaching Kier 49
6. Rectangular Dye-tank 54
7. Round Dye-tub 54
8. Section of Dye-vat 56
9. Delahunty's Dyeing Machine 58
10. Obermaier Dyeing Machine 59
11. Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine 60
12. Klauder-Weldon Dyeing Machine 62
13. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine 65
14. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine 66
15. Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine 67
16. Warp-dyeing Machine 7017. Warp-dyeing Machine 71
18. Dye-jiggers 72
19. Dye-jigger 73
20. Jig Wince 75
21. Cloth-dyeing Machine 76
22. Dye Beck 77
23. Holliday's Machine for Hawking Cloth 78
24. Continuous Dyeing Machine 79
25. Padding Machine 80
26. Padding Machine 81
[Pg viii]27. Dye-tub for Paranitroaniline Red 191
28. Padding Machine for Paranitroaniline Red 192
29. Developing Machine for Paranitroaniline Red 194
30. Indigo Dye-vat for Cloth 199
31. Squeezing Rollers 240
32. Yarn-washing Machine 243
33. Dye-house Washing Machine 244
34. Cloth-washing Machine 245
35. Cloth-washing Machine 247
36. Washing and Soaping Vats 248
37. Steaming Cottage 249
38. Steaming and Ageing Chamber 250
39. Hydro-extractor 251
40. Hydro-extractor 252
41. Automatic Yarn-dryer 253
42. Truck Yarn-dryer 254
43. Drying Cylinders 255
44. Experimental Dye-bath 263
[Pg 1]CHAPTER I.
STRUCTURE AND CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE.
There is scarcely any subject of so much importance to the bleacher, textile
colourist or textile manufacturer as the structure and chemistry of the cotton
fibre with which he has to deal. By the term chemistry we mean not only the
composition of the fibre substance itself, but also the reactions it is capable of
undergoing when brought into contact with various chemical substances—
acids, alkalies, salts, etc. These reactions have a very important bearing on the
operations of bleaching and dyeing of cotton fabrics.
A few words on vegetable textile fibres in general may be of interest. Fibres are
met with in connection with plants in three ways.
First, as cuticle or ciliary fibres or hairs; these are of no practical use, being
much too short for preparing textile fabrics from, but they play an important part
in the physiology of the plant.Second, as seed hairs; that is fibres that are attached to the seeds of many
plants, such, for instance, as the common thistle and dandelion; the cotton fibre
belongs to this group of seed hairs, while there are others, kapok, etc., that
have been tried from time to time in spinning and weaving, but without much
success. These seed hairs vary much in length, from ¼ inch to 1½ inches or
even 2 inches; each fibre consists of a single unit. Whether it is serviceable as
[Pg 2]a textile fibre depends upon its structure, which differs in different plants, and
also upon the quantity available.
The third class of fibre, which is by far the most numerous, consists of those
found lying between the bark or outer cuticle and the true woody tissues of the
plant. This portion is known as the bast, and hence these fibres are known as
"bast fibres". They are noticeable on account of the great length of the fibres, in
some cases upwards of 6 feet, which can be obtained; but it should be pointed
out that these long fibres are not the unit fibres, but are really bundles of the
ultimate fibres aggregated together to form one long fibre, as found in and
obtained from the plant. Thus the ultimate fibres of jute are really very short—
from 1/10 to 1/8 of an inch in length; those of flax are somewhat longer. Jute,
flax, China grass and hemp are common fibres which are derived from the bast
of the plants.
There is an important point of difference between seed fibres and bast fibres,
that is in the degree of purity. While the seed fibres are fairly free from impurities
—cotton rarely containing more than 5 per cent.—the bast fibres contain a large
proportion of impurity, from 25 to 30 per cent. as they are first obtained from the
plant, and this large quantity has much influence on the extent and character of
the treatments to which they are subjected.
As regards the structure of the fibres, it will be sufficient to say that while seed
hairs are cylindrical and tubular and have thin walls, bast fibres are more or
less polygonal in form and are not essentially tubular, having thick walls and
small central canals.
The Cotton Fibre.—The seed hairs of the cotton plant are separated from the
seeds by the process of ginning, and they then pass into commerce as raw
cotton. In this condition the fibre is found to consist of the actual fibrous
[Pg 3]substance itself, containing, however, about 8 per cent. of hygroscopic or
natural moisture, and 5 per cent. of impurities of various kinds, which vary in
amount and in kind in various descriptions of cotton. In the process of
manufacture into cotton cloths, and as the material passes through the
operations of bleaching, dyeing or printing, the impurities are eliminated.
Impurities of the Cotton Fibre.—Dr. E. Schunck made an investigation many
years ago into the character of the impurities, and found them to consist of the
following substances:—
Cotton Wax.—This substance bears a close resemblance to carnauba wax. It
is lighter than water, has a waxy lustre, is somewhat translucent, is easily
powdered, and melts below the boiling point of water. It is insoluble in water,
but dissolves in alcohol and in ether. When boiled with weak caustic soda it
melts but is not dissolved by the alkali; it can, however, be dissolved by boiling
with alcoholic caustic potash. This wax is found fairly uniformly distributed over
the surface of the cotton fibre, and