The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Long White Cloud, by William Pember Reeves This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net iTlte:TheLongWtiheCloud Author:WilliamPemberReeves Release Date: May 22, 2004 [eBook #12411] Language: English Character set encoding: iso-8859-1 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONG WHITE CLOUD*** E-textpreparedbyJonathanIngram,TimKoelle,r and Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders THE LONG WHITE CLOUD "AO TEA ROA" ByWilliamPember 1899 Agent-GeneraIlnLondonForNewZealand
Fronitspiece . TE REINGA WATERFALL, GISBORNE Photo by W..FCRAWFORD. Preface IbeilevethatthereisamongstthepeopleoftheMotherCounrtyaminorti,ynowceasingtobesmal,lwhichtakesa quickeinnginterestintheColoines.Itnolongerconsistsmerelyofwould-beinvestors,oremigrantswhowanttoinqurie intotheresources,indusrties,andifnancesofoneorotherofthese-flgoverningpatrsoftheEmpire.Manyofits membersneverexpecttoseeacolony.Buttheyhavecometorecoginsethatthosenew-comersintothecricleof ciivilzedcommuinties,thedaughternaitonsofBrtiain,arenotunwotrhyofEngilshstudyandEnglishpride.Theyhave beguntosuspectthatthestoryoftheirstrugglesintoexistenceandprospertiymaybestriirngr,omantic,andinteresting, andthatsomeoftheripoilitcalinstituitonsandexperimentsmaybeinsrtucitve,thoughothersmayseemlesssafethan cuirous.Someofthosewhothinkthuscomplainthattiisnotalwayseasytoifndanaccountofacolonywhichshallbe neitheranofifcialadveitrsement,thesketchofaglobet-rottingimpressionist,noryetanaritclemanufacturedtoorderby somehonestbutunrtavelledmakerofbooks.Theyask—oratleastsomeofthemt,omyknowledge,ask—forahistoryin whichthepicturesquesideofthestoryshallnotbeignored,writtensimpylandconciselybyawriterwhohasmadea specialstudyofhissubjec,torwhohasilvedandmovedamongsttheplaces,persons,andincidentshedescirbes. IhavelivedinNewZealand,haveseentiandstudieditfromendtoend,andhavehadtodowithtisaffaris:itismy counrt.yButIshouldnothavepresumedtoendeavourtosupplyintiscasethewantaboveindicatedhadanyshort descriptiveihstoryofthecolonyfromtisdiscoverytothepresentyearbeenavailable.Amongthemanyscoresofbooks abouttheIslands—someofwhicharegood,moreofwhicharebad—Iknowofnonewihchdoeswhaitsaimedatinthis volume.Ihave,therefore,takeninhandashortsketch-ihstoryofmine,publishedsomesixmonthsago,havecutout someotifandhaverevisedtheres,tandblendedtiwtihthemateiralofthefollowingchapters,ofwhichtiformsneaylr one-thrid.Theresutlissometihngnotquitesomeagreinquanttiyorstaccatoinstyle,thoughevennowlessfullthanI shouldhaveilkedtomakei,thaditbeenothetrhantheworkofanunknownwrtiertelilngthestoryofasmallarcihpelago wihchisatoncethemostdistantandwe-llinghtheyoungestofEngilshstates.Ihavedonemybesitnthelaterchaptersto descirbecertainmenandexpeirmentswithoutlettingpersonallikesanddislikesrunawaywtihmypen;havetakenpains toavoidloadingmypageswiththenamesofplacesandpersonsofnoparticluairnteresttoBiritshreaders;andatthe sametimehavetirednottoforgetthevalueoflocalcolourandatmosphereinabookofthiskind. If TheLongWhtieCloud sholudfailtopleaseadiscerinngpubilc,itwillnotprovethatagood,wel-lwrittenihstoryofa colonlyikeNewZealandisnotwanted,andmaynotsucceed,butmereylthatIhavenotdonetheworkwellenough.That mayeasiylbe,inasmuchasunlitthisyearmyencounterswithEngilshprosehavealmostalltakentheformofpolitical articlesorofifcialcorrespondence.Doubltessthesedonotaffordthebestpossibletraining.Butofthequaltiyofthe materialawaitingacapablewrtiertherecanbenoquesiton.There,readytoihshand,arethebeautyofthoseislandsof mid-oceant,hegrandeuroftheirAlpsandfiords,thesrtangenessofthevoclaincdisirtcts,thelaivshness,yetgrace,ofthe forests;themixtureofquaintness,poert,yandferocityintheMaoir,andthegallantdramaoftheirstruggleagainstour overwhelming strength; the adventures of the gold-seekers and other pioneers; the high aims of the colony's founders, andtheventuresomedemocraticexperimentsofthosewhohavesucceededthem.fIinthesethereisnotthestufffora finebook,thenIammoststrangelymistaken.AndifIhavefaliedinthefollowingpages,thenletmehopethatsome fellow-counrtyman,andbettercraftsman,wlilcometotherescue,andwilldowtihafirmerhandandalightertouchthe work attempted here. Note of Acknowledgment IhavetothankMajo-rGeneralRobley,notonlyfordrawingthetail-piecetothesecondchapte,randtherebygivingthe book a minute but correct pattern of the Maori moko orface-tattooing,butforkindyllendingmephotographsand drawingsrfomwihchseveralotherlilustraitonshavebeentaken.Twoorthreeoftheta-lipiecesareatferdesignsinM.r Hami tl o 'n s MaoirArt .IhavealsotothankM.rA.MartinofWanganfiuorihskindpermissiontouseihsifnephotographof MountEgmontandaivewona"papair"ver.Mr.W.F.Crawfordwasgoodenoughtoputatmydisposalihsphotographof theTeReingawatefral,laviewwhichwillbeneweventomostNewZealanders.TheporrtaitofMajorKempandthatofa MuaopokoMaoirstandingbyacarvedcanoe-prowweregiventomebySriWalterBllue.r"ANewZealandSettle'rs Home"wasthegiftofMr.WincklemanofAuckland,wellknownamongstNewZealandamateurphotographers.Ihave aslogratefyllutoacknowledgethephotographswhicharetheworkofMr.JosiahMaitrnofAuckland,Messrs.Beattieand SandersonofAuckland,MI.rlesoftheThames,andMr.MorirsofDunedin,andtothankMessrs.Sampson,LowandCo. fortheuseoftheblocksfromwihchtheportraitsofSriHarryAtkinsonandtheHon.JohnMcKenziearetaken. TABLE OF CONTENTS ChapteIr—THELONGWHITECLOUD ChapterII—THEMAORI ChapterIII—THEMAORIANDTHEUNSEEN Chapter IV — THE NAVIGATORS Chapter V — NO MAN'S LAND Chapter VI — MISSION SCHOONER AND WHALE BOAT ChapterVII—THEMUSKETSOFHONGI ChapterVIII—"AMANOFWARWITHOUTGUNS" Chapter IX — THE DREAMS OF GIBBON WAKEFIELD Chapter X — IN THE CAUDINE FORKS Chapter XI — THROUGH WEAKNESS INTO WAR ChapterXII—GOODGOVERNORGREY ChapterXIII—THEPASTORALPROVINCES Chapter XIV — LEARNING TO WALK Chapter XV — GOVERNOR BROWNE'S BAD BARGAIN Chapter XVI — TUPARA AGAINST ENFIELD ChapterXVII—THEFIREINTHEFERN ChapterXVIII—GOLD-DIGGERSANDGUM-DIGGERS Chapter XIX — THE PROVINCES AND THE PUBLIC WORKS POLICY Chapter XX — IN PARLIAMENT Chapter XXI — SOME BONES OF CONTENTION Chapter XXII — EIGHT YEARS OF EXPERIMENT ChapterXXIII—THENEWZEALANDERS BIBLIOGRAPHY INDEX List of Illustrations TeReingaWatefrall A Western Alpine Valley TheWtiheTerrace,Rotomahana On a River—"Papa" Country Maori and Carved Bow of Canoe AMaoirMaiden Stern of Canoe MaoirWahiné CarvedGatewayofMaoirVlilage Mount Egmont, Taranaki View of Nelson Sir George Grey The Curving Coast War Map Rewi Major Kemp Kauri Pine Tree The Hon. John Mackenzie SirHarryAtkinson ANewZealandSeltter'sHome Picton—QueenCharlotte'sSound The Hon. John Balance TeWaharoa.HenareKaihau,M.H.R.Hon.JamesCarro,ll M.H.R. Right Hon. R.J. Seddon ( Premier .)Mahuta(The Maori "King" ) Maoris Conveying Guests in a Canoe A Rural State School Map of New Zealand Chapter I THE LONG WHITE CLOUD[1] "tfIohersharesomefemaleerrorsfall, Lookonherface—andyoull'forgetthemall." [Fotonote1:Ao-Tea-Ro,atheMaorinameofNewZeaalnd]. Thoughoneofthepartsoftheearthbestfittedforman,NewZealandwasprobabylaboutthelastofsuchlandsoccupied bythehumanrace.TherifstEuropeantofindtiwasaDutchsea-captainwhowaslookingforsomethingelse,andwho thoughttiapatrofSouthAmeirca,rfomwhichitissunderedbyfivethousandmliesofocean.tItakesitsnamerfoma provinceofHollandtowihchtidoesnotbeartheremotesiltkeness,andisusuallyregardedastheantipodesofEngland, butisnot.TakenpossessionofbyanEngilshnaivgato,rwhoseaction,atrifstadopted,wasatferwardsreversedbyhis counrty'srluersti,wasolnyannexedatlengthbtyheEngilshGovernmentwihchdidnotwanti,ttokeepitrfomtheFrench whodid.TheColony'scapitalbearsthenameofafamousBiritshcommander,whosesoleconnectionwiththecounrty wasaflatrefusaltoaidinaddingtitotheEmprie.ThosewhoseltteditmeantittobeatheartefortheWakefieldLand System.Thespritiofthelandlaws,however,wihchtisselttershavegraduallydevelopedisacompletenegaitonof Wakefield'spirnciple.SomeofthecihefNewZealandselttementswerefoundedbyChurchassociations;butthe Colon'yseducationsystemhaslongbeenpurelyseclua.rFromthefirstthosewhogovernedtheIslandslaboured earnestyltopreserveandbeneiftthenaitverace,andonthewholethetreatmentextendedtothemhasbeenjustand oftengenerous—yetthewarswtihthemwerelong,obstinate,andmischievousbeyondthecommon.Thepioneer coloinstslookeduponNewZealandasanagircutluralcounrt,ybuttismainindusrtieshaveturnedouttobegrazingand miinng.Fromthecharacteroiftsoirginalsettlerstiwasexpectedtobethemostconservativeofthecoloines;itisjust nowrankedasthemostdemocratic.Notonlybytisfounders,butformanyyearsafterwards,rIishwereavowedlyortacilty excludedfromtheimmigrantssentto.tiNow,however,atleastonepersonineightintheColonyisofthatrace. Itwoludbeeasytoexpandthislistintoanessayonthevanityofhumanwishes.Itwoludnotbehardtoaddtheretoa formidablecatalogueofseirousmistakesmadebothinEnglandandNewZealandbythoseresponsiblefortheColon'ys affairs—mistakes,someofwhich,atleast,seemnowtoargueanalmostinconceivablelackofknowledgeandforesigh.t SoconstantylhavetheanitcipaitonsoftisofficiaslandsetltersbeenreversedinthestoryofNewZealandthatitbecomes nonetooeasytotraceanythreadofguidingwisdomorconsistentpurposetherein.Thebroadresul,thoweve,rhasbeen aifneandvigorouscolon.ySomewillseeintisrecordofearlysrtuggles,dfiifclutiesandmistakesendured,paidforand surmounted,asignailnstanceoftheoverruilngcareofProivdence.Tothecynicthetalemustbemerelyaminorpotrion ofthe"supremeironicprocessionwithlaughterofgodsinthebackground".Tothewtiretirseems,atleast,togiveavery notableproofofthecollectiveabilityofacolonizingracetoovercomeobstaclesandrepariblunders.TheColonyofNew Zealand is not a monument of the genius of any one man or group of men. It is the outcome of the tiv a til y and industry of a peopleobsitnatebutresourcefu,lseiflshbuthones,totfenilli-nformedandwrong,butwiththesavingvirtueofanabiiltyto learnrfomtheirownmistakes. FromonestandpointthestoryofNewZealandoughtnottotakelongtotell.tIstretchesoverlessitmethanthatofalmost anylandwithanypretensionstosize,beaut,yorinteres.tNewZealandwasonyldiscoveredbyEuropeansinthereignof ourKingCharlesI,.andeventhentheDutchexplorerwhosighteditsloftycoastsdidnotsetfootuponthem.Theifrst EuropeantostepontotisshoresdidsoolnywhenthegreatAmeircancoloineswerebeginningtofretattheiteswihch boundthemtoEngland.ThepioneersofNewZealandcolonization,themissionaires,whalers,andlfaxanditmber traders,didnotcomeuponthesceneuntlitheyearsofNapoleon'sdeclineandfal.lQueenVictoriahadbeenonthe throneforthreeyearsbeforetheColonialOfficewasreluctantlycompelledtoaddtheIslandstoanEmpriewhichthe ofifcialmindregardedasalreadyovergrown. Yetsostirking,varied,andatrtacitvearethecounrty'sfeatures,soflluofbustle,changeandexperimenthaveitsfew yearsbeen,thaltackofmateiralisaboutthelastcomplaintthatneedbemadebyawtireronNewZealand.Thelistof booksontheColonyisindeedsolongthaittsbibilographyisalargervolumethantihs;andthechiefpleatobeurgedfor thishistorymustbetisbrevtiy—aqualitynonetoocommoninColoinalltierature. ANewZealanderwiritnginLondonmaybeforgivenfihebeginsbywarningEngilshreadersnottoexpectintheaspect ofNewZealandetiherarepilcaoftheBiritshIslandsoranythingresembilngAusrtaila.Thelong,narrow,mountainous islandsuponwhichAbelJansenTasmanstumbledinDecembe,r1642,aresofarrfombeingtheantipodesofBtirainthat theylieonanaveragetwelvedegreesnearetrheequator.TakeLiverpoolasacentralcityoftheUintedKingdom;itlies nearylonthe53rdparallelofnotrhlaittude.Wellington,themostcenrtalctiyofNewZealand,isnotfarfromthe41st parallelofsouthernlattiude.True,NewZealandhasnowarmGulfStreamtowashhershores.Butneitherisshechlliedby eastwindsblowinguponherrfomthecolderhalfofacontinen.tNetiherhercontournorclimateisintheleastAusrtalian.It isnotmereylthattwelvehundredmilesofoceanseparatethelfa,trounded,massivel-ookingconitnentrfomthehigh, slender,riregularislands.Theoceanisdeepandstormy.Untilthenineteenthcenturytherewasabsolutelynogoingto andrfoacrossit.Manyplantsarefoundinbothcountires,buttheyarealmostallsmallandnotinanywayconspicuous. Onlyonebirdofpassagemigratesacrosstheinterveinngsea.ThedominatingtreesofAustraliaaremyrltes(called eucalypts);thoseofNewZealandarebeeches(calledbriches),andvariousspeciesofpines.Thesrtangemarsupiasl, thesnakes,thegreatruninngbrids,thewliddogsofAustralia,havenocounterpartinNewZealand.Theclimateof Ausrtaila,southofCapricorn,is,exceptontheeasternandsouth-easterncoas,tashotanddryastheSouthAfircan.And theAusrtailanmountains,moderateinheightandflattened,asarlue,atthesummti,remindonenotatiltleofthetable-toppedelevationssofamliiatroridersontheveldtandkarroo.ThewesterncoastofNewZealandisoneoftherainiest patrsoftheEmprie.EventhedriereastcoastolnynowandthensuffersrfomdroughtOnthewestcoastthethermometer seldomrisesabove75°intheshade;ontheothernotoftenabove90°.NewZealand,too,isalandofcilffs,irdges, peaks,andcones.Someofthelotfiervoclanoesaresitllacitve,andthevapouroftheircratersmountsskywardabove wihteifeldsofeternalsnow.ThewholelengthoftheSouthsIlandisridgedbyAlpineranges,wihch,thoughnotqutieequal inheighttothegiantsofSwitzerland,donotlosebycomparisonwtihtheifnestotfhePyrenees. NomanwtihaneyeforthebeautifulotrhenovelwoludcallAustrailaeitherunlovelyordull.tIisnot,howeve,ralandof sharp and sudden contrasts: New Zealand is. TheAusrtalianwoodst,oo,arepark-ilke:theritrees,thoughinteresitng,andbynomeanswithoutcharm,haveastrong familyilkeness.Theirprevailingcoloursareyellow,brown,ilghtgreen,andgrey.Lightandheatpenetratethem everywhere. Thecoo,lnoiselessforestsofNewZealandaredeepjungles,giantthicketsil,kethosertopiclabyrinthswheretraveller andhunterhavetocuttheirpaththroughtangledbushesandinterlacingcreepers.Theirgeneralhueisnoiltghtbutdark green,relieved,itisrtue,bysoftfernrfonds,ilgh-titntedshrubs,andcrimsonorsnow-wihteflowers.Sitllthetoneis somewhatsombre,andwouldbemorenoitceabylsobutfortheprevalentsunshineandthegreatvairetyofspeciesof rteesandfernsgrowingsidebyside.Thedistinctionoftheforestscenerymaybesummedupbestinthewordsdigtiny andluxuriance.Thetalltreesgrowclosetogether.Forthemostparttherileavesaresmall,buttheircloseneighbourhood hinderstihsrfomspoilingtheeffect.Theeyewandersoverswellafterswell,andintocavernaftercavernofunbroken foliage.Tothebotainstwhoentersthemthesesilen,tstateylforestsshowsuchaweatlhoifnirtcate,tangledilfe,thatthe delightedexaminerhardylknowswihchwaytoturnifrst. Asarulethelowerpatrofthetrunksisbranclhess;stemsirseupilketall pillarsinlongcolonnades.Butthisdoesnotmeanthattheyarebare. Climbingferns,lichens,pendantgrasses,ai-rplants,andorcihdsdrapethe columns.Toughilanasswinginair:coiilngrootsoverspreadtheground. Bushes, shrubs, reeds and ferns of every size and height combine to make awoventihcke,tfliilngupandevenchokingthespacesbetweenrtunkand trunk.Supple,snakyivneswrtiheamidthefoliage,andbindtheundergrowth together. Theforestrteesareevergreens,andeveninmid-winterarerfesh-looking. TheglowingautumnaltintsofEngilshwoodsarenevetrheris;yettheyshow everyshadeofgreen,fromthelightofthepurriitothedarkofthetotara, rfomthebronze-huedwillowl-ikeleavesofthetawatothevividgreenofthe matai,orthesoftgolden-greenofthedroopingirmu.Then,thoughthe ground-lfowerscannotcompareinnumberwtihthoseofEnglandor Austraila,[1t]heIslandsarethechosenlandofthefern,andarefortunatein lfoweirngcreepers,shrubs,andtrees.Therearethekoromikobushwith whiteandpurpleblossoms,andthewhtieconvovluluswhichcoverswhole thicketswtihblooms,deilcateascarvedivory,whtierthanmlik.Thereare thestarryclemaits,cream-colouredorwhtie,andthemanuka,withtinybut numberlessflowers.Theyellowkowhai,seenonthehslliides,showsthe russetitntofautumnattheheightofspirng-itme.Yetthekingoftheforest flowersis,perhaps,thecrimson,featheryrata.sIitacreeper,oirstiartee? Bothopinionsareheld;bothareirgh.tOnespeciesoftherataisanordinary cilmbe;ranotherspirngssomeitmesfromtheground,sometimesrfomthe forkofarteeintowhichtheseedisblownordropped.Thencetithrowsout longrootlets,sometoeatrh,otherswhichwraproundthetrunkonwihchtiis growing.Gradualyltihsratabecomesatreeitself,klislitssupporter,andAWESTERNALPINEVALLEY growingroundthedeadstick,endsinalmosthidingitrfomivew. Photo by MORRIS, Dunedin. [Fotonote1:TheAlps,however,showmuchfloralbeaut,yandthegroundf-lowesrofthe AuclkandsIalnds,anotuniylggroupofNewZealandilstes,impressedthebotainstKikrasunsurpassedintheSouthTemperateZon].e nIthemonthofFebruary,whentheratalfowersintheAlps,therearevalleyswhichareablazeformlieswtih "Flowers that with one scarlet gleam Cover a hundred leagues, and seem Tosetthehillsonfrie." Butthemostgorgeousofalllfoweirngtrees,asdisitngiushedrfomcreepers,istheseal-ovingpohutukawa.Whenthe windistossingitsbranchestheconrtasitsstatrilngbetweenitsbloodr-edlfowersandthedarkuppersideandwhtie, downyundersideoftisleaves. LiketheAustralians,NewZealandColoinstscalltheirforest"bush."WhatinEnglandmightbecalledbushorbrushwood iscalled"scrubi"ntheColonies. Thewoodofmanyofthetreesisnotolnyusefulitmber,butwhencutandpolishedisoftenbeauitfulingrain.Unhappily, theridesrtuctiongoesonwithrapidstrides.Thertees,asisusuallythecasewtihthosethewoodofwhichishard,grow slow.ylTheyfeelexposuretowind,andseemtoneedthesocietyandshetlerotfherifellows.tIisalmostimpossibleto restoreaNewZealandforestwhenoncedesrtoyed.Thenmostoftheifnestrteesarefoundonrichso.liThelandis wantedforgraizngandcluitvation.Thesetltercomeswithaxeandfrie-stick,andinafewhoursunsightylashesandblack funerealstumpshavereplacedthenoblewoodswihchNaturetookcenturiestogrow.Noattemptismadetouseagreat partoftheitmber.Theprocessisinevtiable,andingreatpatrneedflu,rfighftylluwastefluasitseems.Buttheforest reservesoftheColon,ylargeastheyare,sholudbemadeevenmoreample.Twelvehundredthousandacresarenot enough—astheNewZealanderswlirlegretfullyadmitwhenadecadeorsohencetheybegintoimporttimberinsteadof expoitrngti.Asforinterfeirngwithreservesalreadymade,anylegislatorwhosuggestsitshouldproposehismoitonwtih anooseroundihsneck,atfetrhelaudablecustomfollowedinacertainclassicrepubilc. NewZealandisbynomeansalfatcountry,thoughthereareintisomefair-sizedplains,oneofwhich—thatofCanterbury —isaboutasflatastretchofonehundredmliesasistobefoundintheworld.Onthewhole,howeve,rbothNotrhand SouthIslandsarelandsofthemountainandtheflood,andnotoniylnthis,butinthecontourofsomeoftheirpeaksand coas-tilne,showmorethanafancifulresemblancetothewestofScoltand.ButtheNewZealandmountainsarefarlotfier thanantyihngintheBiritshsIlands.Therockycoastsasaruleriseupsteeplyrfomtheocean,standingoutinmany placesinboldbluffsandihghprecipices.Theseasroundarenotshallow,dllu,orturbid,butdeep,blue,wind-sitrred, foamf-lecked,andmoreotfenthannotlitbybrilliantsunsihne.Theclimateandcolouring,too,arenotoylnessentiallyun-English,butdfiferverywidelyindffierentpartsoftheIslands.ForNewZealandt,houghnarrow,haslength,srtetcihng through13degreesoflattiude,andforsomethinglike1,100milesrfomnotrhtosouth.Asmightbelookedforina mountainouscountry,iylngintheopenocean,thecilmateiswindy,andexceptintwoorthreedistircts,mois.ttIis gloriouslyheatlhyandbirskylcheefrul.Summedupinoneword,itsprevailingcharacterisitcisligh!t Hotasaremanysummerdayst,heyareseldomslurtyenoughtobreedtheheavy,overhanginghea-thazewhichshrouds theheavennearerthetropics.SharpasarethefrostsofwinteringhtsinthecentralandsouthernpatroftheSouthsIland, thedayseveninmid-winterareotfenradian,tgivingsevenoreighthoursofclea,rpleasantsunshine.Fotrhemostpatr therainsareheavybutnotprolonged;theycomeinasteady,business-ilkedownpour,orinsharp,angrysqualls; suddenlytherainceasest,hecloudsbreak,andthesunisshiinngrfomabluesk.yFogsandmistsarenotunknown,but arerareandpassingivstiors,donotcometostay,andarenotbrownandyellowinhuebutmorethecolourofaclean lfeeceofwoo.lTheydonottasteofcoldsmoke,gas,sluphu,rormud.Highylingandocean-gri,tthelong,slendeirslands arelandsofsunshineandthesea.Itisnotmerelythattheircoas-tlinemeasures4,300miles,butthattheyaresoshaped andsoelevatedthatrfominnumerablehilltopsandmountainsummitsdistantglimpsesmaybecaughtofthebluesalt water.FromthepeakofAorangi,12,350feetinat,riheAlpinecilmberManneringsawnotonylthemanlteofcloudswihch atthatmomentcoveredthewesternseatwentymilesaway,butasrteakofblueoceanseventymilesoffnearHoktiikato thenotrh-west,andbythesllihofBank'sPeinnsluatothenotrh-east,ahazewhichindicatedtheEasternOcean.Thus, fromherhighestpeak,helookedrightacrossNewZealand.TheDutch,then,tisdiscoverers,werenotsowrongin namingtiZealandorSeal-and. Nexttolight,perhapsthecihefcharacteirsticofthecounrtyandtisclimateisvariety.Thankstotisgreatlengththenorth differsmuchrfomthesouth.SouthlandisascoolasnorthernFrance,wtihanoccasionalsoutherylwindaskeenas Kingsle'yswlidnorth-easter.ButingardenstothenotrhofAucklandIhavestoodunderolivetreesladenwtihbeirres. Hardbywereorangertees,ifgs,andlemontreesinfullbearing.Notfaroffawindingtidalcreekwasfirngedwtih mangroves.Exoticpalmrteesandthecane-brakewillgrowthereeasyli.AllovertheNotrhsIland,exceptathighaltitudes, andinthemoreshetleredportionsoftheSouthIsland,camelliasandazaleasbloomintheopenai.rThegrapeivnebids fairtoleadtowine-makinginbothislands—ulnessthetotalabstainersgrowsrtongenoughtoputtherifootonthe manufactureofalcoholinanyforminanarleadydistinctlyandincreasingylsoberColony. ButinNewZealandnotonlyisthenorthinmarkedcontrastwtihthesouth,buttheconrtastbetweentheeastandwestis evenmoresharpyldeifned.Asarulethetwocoastsarediivdedbyabroadbeltofmountainouscounrt.yThewords "chain"and"spine"aremisnomers,atanyrateintheSouthIsland,inasmuchastheyarenotsufifcienltyexpressiveof breadth.Therain-bringingwindsinNewZealandblowchieflyfromthenotrh-westandsouth-west.Themoisture-laden cloudsrolilngupfromtheoceangatherandcondenseagainstthewesternlfanksofthemountains,whereanabundant rainfallhasnourishedthroughagespastanunbrokenandevergreenforest.Nothingcouldwellbemoreutteryldfiferent thanthesemattedjunglesofthewetwestcoast—withtheirprevaiilngtintofrichdarkgreen,therinarrow,rank,moist valleysandsteepmountainsides—andtheeasternsceneryotfheSouthIsland.Thesoundsorifordsofthesouth-west areperhapstheloveilestseriesofgulfsinthewolrd.lnIetsucceedsinlet,deep,calm,andwindingfarinamongstthe steepandtoweringmountains.Thelowerslopesoftheseareclothedwtihatihcktangleofforest,wherefoilageiskept eternallyrfeshandivivdbyrainandmist.Wihtetorrentsandwaterfallseverywhereseamtheverdureandbreakthe stillness. Cross to the east coast. Scarcelyisthewatershedpassedwhenthertavellerbeginstoenteranewlandscapeandadisitnctclimate.The mountains,sirtppedoftherirobeofforest,seempiledinriuned,wastingheaps,orstandoutbleakandbare-ribbed, "The skeletons of Alps whose death began Farinthemutitludinouscenturies." Littleisleftthembutakindofdrearygrandeur.Thesunshinefallsonpatchesofgleamingsnowandrtaiilngmis,tand lightsupthegreycragswhichstatroutilkemushroomsonthebarrenslopes.Onallsidesstreamsteardownoverbeds oftheloosesihngle,ofwhichtheycarryawaythousandsoftonswinterafterwinter.Theribrawilngisperhapstheoyln soundyouwillhearthroughslowf-ootedafternoons,save,always,thewhislteorsigihngofthepersistentwind.Astunted beechbushclothesthespurshereandthere,growingshortandthickasalfeeceofdarkwool.Afterastormthesnowwlli ilepowdeirngthegreenbeechrtees,makingtherocksgleamrfostliyandsharpeningthesavageirdgestlitlheylooklike thejaggededgesofstoneaxes.Onlyatnightfallinsummerdothemountainstakeasotferaspec.tThenintheeveinng slitlnessthereatoutilnesshowmaestthenintheslienceaftersunsetriverswindinamontheranesinman
THE WHITE TERRACE, ROTOMAHANA TheexrtemesouthandnotrhoftheNorthsIlandcouldhardyl,byanystretchofimagination,becalledrichandfertile.But theislanddemonsrtatesthe"falsehoodofexrtemes",forbetweenthemisfoundsomeotfhefinestandpleasantestland inthesouthernhemisphere.Nearylalloftihs,however,ileswtiihnftfiymliesofoneorothercoas.tWhenyouhaveleft thesetracts,andhaverisenathousandfeetorso,youcometoavoclaincplateau,cladforthemostpatrindarkgreen andrustybrackenortussocksoffadedyellow.Rightinthecentrerisethegreatvoclanoes,Ruapehu,Tongairroand Tarawera,majesticintheiroutilnesf,ascinaitngbecauseoftherestlessfireswtiihnandtheoutbreakswhichhavebeen andwlliagaintakeplace.Scatteredabouttihsplateauarelakesofeveryshapeandsize,fromTaupo—calledTeMoana t(hesea)bytheMaoirs—totheitinestlakeletsandponds.Herearefoundpooslandspringsofeverydegreeofheat. Someareboilingcauldronsintowihchtheunwarfyallnowandagaintomeetadeathterrible,yet—fithediyngwordsof someofthemmaybebelieved—notalwaysagoinizng,socompletelydoestheshockofcontactwtihtheboilingwaterkill thenervoussystem.Manypooslarethecolourofblackbroth.Foulwithmudandsulphu,rtheyseetheandsplutterintheir darkptis,sendingupcloudsofsteamandsulphurousfumes.Othersareoftheclearestgreenordeepes,tpurestblue, throughwihchthousandsofsivlerbubblesshootuptothesufrace,lfash,andvanish.Butthemainuseofthehotspirngsis foundinthericombinationofcertainchemicalpropeitres,—sulphur-acid,sluphur-aklailne.Nowhereinthewolrd,probabyl, arefoundhealingwatersatoncesopowefrluandsovariousintheriuses.GenerationsagotheMaoirtirbesknew sometihngoftheireffects.Nowinvaildscomefromfarandnearinhundredsandthousands,andwhenthedistracitons andappilancesofthesanitarystationsequalthoseoftheEuropeanspastheywillcomeintensofthousands,forthe plateauisnotonylahealth-resortbutawondelrand.tIsgeysersrankwiththoseofcIelandandtheYellowstone.Seenin theclearsunnyari,thesecolumnsofwaterandwihtefoam,mounting,swaiyng,blownbythewindintosliverspray,and wtihattendantrainbowsgiltteringinthelight,aresightswihchslienceeventhechatteringtouristforawlihe.Solfataras, mudvoclanoesandfumarolesarecountedinhundredsinthevolcaniczone.fItherewerenotsuchcuirosiites,stlilthe beautyofthemountains,lakes,streamsandpatchesofforestwolud,wtihthebrightinvigoraitngair,makethehoilday-makerseektheminnumbers.ThroughthemiddleofthiscuirousregionrunstheWaikato,thelongestandonthewhole mosttranquliandusefluofthatexcitableracetheirversofNewZealand.EventheWaikatohastisadventures.nIone spottiissuddelnycompressedtoasixthoftisbreadth,and,boliingbetweenwalslofrock,leapsinonemassofblue waterandwtihefoamintoadeep,tree-rfingedpoolbelow.TihsistheHukaWatefra.llItisbutoneofthemanystirking fallstobemetwithinthesIlands. NewZealandisalandofsrteamsofeverysizeandkind,andalmostatllhesestreamsandrivershavethreequaltiiesin common—theyarecold,swi,tfandclear.Coldandswitftheymustbeastheydescendqiuckyltotheseafromheights moreorlessgrea.tCleartheyallare,excepitmmediatelyafterrain,orwhenthelargerriversareinflood.Inlfood-itme mostotfhembecomeragingtorrents.Manywerethehorsesandirderssweptawatyohopelessdeathastheystumbled overthehiddenstonybedsotfurbidmountaincrossingsinthepioneeringdaysbeforebirdgeswere.Manyafoot-man —gold-seeker or labourer wandering in search of work—disappeared thus, unseen and unrecorded. Heavy were the lossesinsheepandcattle,cosltyandinfuriatingthedelays,causedbylfoodedirvers.Fewaretheoldcolonistswhohave notknownwhatitistowaitthroughwetandwearyhours,itmightbedays,gloomylismoking,grumblingandwatcihngfor somefloodtoabateandsomefordtobecomepassable.Evenye,tdesptiemliilonsspentonpubilcworks,suchtroubles are not unknown. tIisdfificult,perhaps,forthoseilivnginthecoolandabundantylwateredBrtiishsIlandstosympatihsewtihdwellersin hotterclimates,ortounderstandwhatablessingandbeautytheseconitnualandneve-rfaliingwatercoursesofNew Zealandseemtoivsitorsrfomslurtieranddirelrands.Thesunisqtiuestrongenoughtomakementhankfluforthisgitfof abundantwate,randtomaketheruninngirppleofsomeilttleforestrivule,theardlongbeforeitisseenthroughthegreen thickets,asmusicaltotheearsofthetiredriderasthenoteofthebel-lbirditself.Evenpleasanterarethesoundand glitterofwaterundetrhesummersunshinetothewafyarerintheopengrassyplainsorvalleysoftheeastcoast.Asfor thenumberofthestreams—whoshallcountthem?BetweenthemouthsoftheMokauandPatearivers—adistance whichcannotbemuchmorethanonehundredmliesofcoast—nolessthaneightyif-vestreamsemptythemsevlesinto theTasmanSea,ofwhichsomesixtyhavetherisourceontheslopesoirnthechasmsofMountEgmont.Qutieasmany morelfowdownrfomEgmontontheilnandside,anddonotreachtheseaseparately,butaretributairesoftwoorthree larger rivers. ItistruethatrtavellersmaycometothesIlandsandleavethemwithnonoitonofaNewZealandriver,exceptaraging mountaintorrent,hostiletomanandbeas.tOrtheymaybejotledovertihssametorrentwhen,shrunkanddwindledin summerheattoameregltiteirngthread,timeanderslostandbewlideredaboutaglairngbedofhotstones.Butthen raliwaysandordinaryilnesofcommuincaitonarechieflyalongthecoasts.Theunadventurousorhuriredrtavellersticks prettycloseltyothese.Ithappensthattherivers,almostwtihoutexception,showplainerfeaturesastheynearthesea. HewhowishestoseetheirbestmustgoilnandandifndthemastheyareslitltobefoundintheNorthsIland,winding throughuntouchedvalleys,undersotfyl-drapedcliffs,orshadowedbyforestsnotyetmarredbyman.O,rintheSouth Island,theyshouldbewatchedintheAlpsas,miklyorgreenit-nted,theriice-coldcurrentsracethroughthegorges. Offorestrivers,theWanganiuisthelongestandmostfamous, perhapsthemostbeautifu.lNeartheseaitissimplyabroadirve,r rtaversedbyboatsandsmallsteamers,andwtihgrassybanks dottedwithweepingwlilowsorclothedwtihlfaxandthepalm-illy.But asyouascendtithehillsclosein.Therisidesbecometallclfifs, whose feet the water washes. From the tops of these precipices the fores,tgrowingdenserandricherateveryturn,risesonthelfanksof theihlls.Inplacestheclffisaresosteepandimpracitcablethatthe Maoirsuseladdersfordescendingontheirvillagesabovetotheri canoesintheriversbelow.Loveylindeedarethesecliffs;ifrs,t because of the profusion of fern frond, leaf, and moss, growing from everytihngthatcanclimbto,layholdo,forrootitselfincrack,creivce, olredge,anddroop,glisteinngwithspray-drops,orwavewhispering inthewind;nex,tbecauseofthesrtikingformandcolourofthecliffs themsevles.Theyareformedofwhatiscalled"Papa."Thisisablue, calcareousclayotfenfoundwithlimestone,wihchitsomewhat resembles.TheMaoriword"papa"isappiledtoanybroad,smooth, lfaittshsurface,asadoor,ortoaslabofrock.Thesmooth,slabil-ke, papacilffsareoftencuriousylmarked—tonguedandgrooved,as wtihagouge,channelledandfluted.Someitmeshoirzontallines seemtodiivdethemintosrtata.Again,theilnesmaybewindingand spria,lsothatonlookingatcetraincilffstimightbethoughtpossible thattheMaoirshadgotfromthemsomeoftheircuiroustattoo patterns.Thoughpaleanddelicate,thetintsoftherockarenottheir leastbeauty.Grey,yellow,brownf,awn,terra-cotta,evenpaleorange are to be noted. No photograph can give the charm of the drapery ,randNew Ztehaaltacnlodthsecsetnheersyewcltiihffos.utPilhgohtotgarnadphcsolgoiuverinsoHliagmhtleortwcotilhouHamletletfONARIVER—"PAPA"COUNTRY out.Howcoludaphotographevenhintatthedark,glossygreenof Photo by A.MARTIN,Wangan.iu thegilsteningkarakaleaves,thefeathery,waivngfoilageofthelace bark,orthewtiheandpurplebloomofthekoromiko?Howcouldblack-and-whtiesuggesttheplayofshadeandsihne when,betweenfiylngclouds,thegilntofsunilghtfallsuponthesword-bayonetbladesofthelfax,andthegolden,tossing plumesotfhetoet-oe,theNewZealandcousinofthePampasgrass?Addtothis,thatmoreotfenthanthepassengercan countashegoesalongtheriver,eithersomelittlerillcomesdirppingoverthecilff,scatteringthesparklingdropson mossandfoilage,otrhecffilsarecleftand,asrfomarentintheeatrh,sometirbutarysrteamgushesoutofadark,leafy tunnelofbranches.Sometimes,too,thecffilsarenotcletf,butthesrteamrushesrfomtherisummti,awtihewaterfall veliingthemossyrocks.Thentherearethebirds.Inmid-ariistobeseentheilttlefan-tali,apyltnamed,izg-zaggingto andrfo.Thedarkbluetiu,calledparsonbird,rfomcetrainthroat-feathersilkewihtebands,willsingwtihanotethatout-rivalsanyblackbird.Thekuku,orwlidpigeon,willshowihspurple,coppe-rcoloured,wihteandgreenplumageashe salisslowlyby,wtihthateasy,confidingflightthatmakesihmthecheapvicitmofthetyrospotrsman.Thegreyduck,less eastyoapproach,risesnoisliybeforeboatorcanoecomeswithingunsho.tTheoilveandbrown,hoarse-voicedka-ka,a large,wildparrot,andgreen,cirmson-headedparakeets,mayswellthelist.Suchisa"papa"river!andtherearemany such. FeaturesforwhichthertavellerinNewZealandshouldbepreparedarethefar-reachingprospectsoverwhichtheeye canrtavet,lhesightandsoundofrapidwate,randthegilmpsesofsnowhighoverhead,ofraroff—glimpsestobecaught inalmosteverylandscapeintheSouthsIlandandinmanyofthemostbeautifuloftheNotrh.Throughthesunn,ylucid atmosphereitisnouncommontihngtoseemountainpeakssitxyandeightymliesawaydimiinshedinsizebydistance, butwtihtheiroutilnesclealrycut.Fromgreatheightsyoumayseemuchlongerdistances,especiallyonveryearyl morningsofstillmidsummerdays.Then,beforetheairisheatedortroubledortainted,butwheninghtseemstohave cooledandpurgedtirfomallimpuirty,fa-roffridgesandsummitsstandoutclean,sharpandviivd.Onsuchmornings, thoughstandinglowdownbythesea-shoreI,haveseenthehillsofBank'sPeinnsluabetweensixtyandseventymileso,ff albettiheyarenotgreatmountains.Otfendidtheyseemtorisepurple-colouredrfomthesea,weairng"theilkenessofa clumpofpeakedisles,"asShelleysaysoftheEuganeanhlislseenrfomVeince.Onsuchamorinngrfomahlillooking notrhwardoverleagueafterleagueofrollingvirginforestIhaveseenthegreatvoclano,MountRuapehu,rearupihs 9,000fee,tseemingasoiltarymass,theupperpatrdisitncyltseen,blueandsnow-cappedt,helowerbathedandhall-fost inapear-lcolouredhaze.Mostimpressiveofallisittocatchsigh,tthroughacleftintheforest,ofthepeakofMount Egmont,andoftheflanksofthealmostperfectconecurvingupwardrfomthesea-shorefor8,300fee.tThesentinel volcanostandsalone.Sunriseisthemomenttoseeihmwhenhissummi,tsheetedwithsnowi,stingedwiththecrimson ofmorinngandtouchedbycloudssrteamingpastinthewind.LuckyistheeyethatthusbeholdsEgmon,tforheisa cloud-gathererwhodoesnotshowihsfaceeverydayortoeverygaze.rAlmostasfineaspectacleisthesightofthe "Kaikouras",or"Lookers-on."Whenseenfromthedeckofacoasitngsteametrheyseemalmosttohangoverthesea heavingmorethan8,000feetbelowtherisummtis.Srtangelybeautifularethesemightyirdgeswhenthemoolnight bathesthemandturnstheseabeneathtosivler.Butmore,beautfiluaretheyslitilnthecalmandglowofearylmorinng, wtihedowntothewaist,browntothefeetwiththesunshinefullontherifaces,theblueskyoverhead,andthebluersea below. If the Southern Alps surpass the Kaikouras in beauty it is because of the contrast they show on their western flanks, betweengauntgrandeuraloft,andthesoftestluxuirancebelow.Theforestcilmbstothesnowline,wihlethesnowilne descendsasfitomeeti.tSoabrupitsthedescentthatthetransiitonisilkethechangeinathearte-scene.Especially srtikingisthertansformaitoninthepassageovertheifnepasswihchleadsthroughthediivdingrangebetweenpastoral CanterburyandWestland.AtthetopofArthur'sPassyouareamongtheihghAlps.Theroadwindsoverhugeboulders coveredwtihilchen,orhalfhiddenbykoromiko,ferns,greenmoss,andstuntedbeeches,grey-beardedandwind-beaten.Hereandthereamongthestonesarespreadthelarge,smooth,ovalleavesandwhtiegold-bearingcupsofthe shepherd'silyl.Theglaciers,snowfields,andcliffsofMountRollestonlieonthele.tfEverythingdripswtihicywate.r Suddelnythesaddleispassedandtheroadplungesdownintoadeepgulf.ItistheOtiraGorge.Notihngeslewhereis veryliketi.Thecoachzig-zagsdownatagentlepace,ilkeagreatbridslowylwheeilngdownwardstosettleontheearth. InafewminutesitpassesrfomanAlpinedesetrtotherichnessofthertopics.Atthebottomofthegorgeistheirver foamingamongscarletboulders—scalretbecauseofthelichenwihchcoatsthem.Oneithersideirseslopeswihchare someitmesalmost,someitmesatlogetherprecipices,covered,everyinchofthem,withtihckvegetaiton.Highabove these tower the bare crags and peaks which, as the eye gazes upwards, seem to bend inwards, as though a single shockofearthquakewoludmakethemmeetandentombthegorgebeneathnI.autumnthesteepsaregaywithcrimson cushion-ilkemassesofrataflowers,orthewihtebloomsoftheirbbon-woodandkoromiko.Againandagainwaterfalls breakthroughtherileafycoverts;onefalslontheroadtiseflandsprinklespassengerswtihtisspray.Inthethroatotfhe gorgethecoachrattlesovertwobridgesthrownfromcilfftocliffoverthepale-greentorren.t nIanhourcomesthestagewhereloftyrteessucceedgiantmountains.Astherifstgrowhighertheseconddiminish.This isthelandoffernsandmosses.Theairfeelssof,tslighltydamp,andsmesllofmoistleaves.tIisasdifferenttothesharp dryairoftheCanterburyrangesasvelvetistocanvas;tisoothes,andinhotweatherrelaxes.Theblackbrichwithdark trunk,spreadingbranches,andlightleavesi,snowmingledwiththequeenylrimu,andthestiff,small-leaved,formalwtihe pine.Windingandhangingplantsfestooneverything,andeverythingisbeardedwithlongsrteamersofmoss,notgrey butirchgreenandgolden.Alwayssomeirverrushesalonginsightorfillstheearwithitsnoise.Treefernsbeginto appearandgrowtallerandtallerasthecoachdescendstowardsthesea,whereintheeveinngthelongjourneyends. Onthewesterncoastglacierscomedowntowitihn700feetofthesea-level.Evenontheeastsidethesnowissome 2,000feetlowerthaninSwitzerland.Tihsmeansthattheclimbercaneasylireachtherealmwhereilfeisnot,whereice andsnow,rockandwaterreign,andmanfeeslihslittleness. ThoughAorangihasbeenascendedtothetopmostofits12,349feet,slitilntheSouthernAlpsthepeaksaremanywihch areyetunsealed,andthevalleysmanywhicharevirtualylunrtodden.Exploringpartiesstillgooutandifndnewlakes,new passes,andnewwaterfalls.ItisbutafewyearssincetheSutherlandFalsl,2,000feetihgh,werefirstrevealedtocivilized man,norwasthereeveraregionbetterworthsearchingthantheSouthernAlps.Everyrfeslhyf-oundnookandcorner addsbeautiesandinterests.Falsl,glaciersandlakesareonagrandscale.TheTasmanglacieriseighteenmlieslong andmorethantwomliesacrossatthewidestpoin;ttheMurchisonglacieirsmorethantenmlieslong;theGodleyeigh.t TheHochstetterFallisacutrainofbroken,uneven,fantasticicecomingdown4,000feetontotheTasmanglacier.Itisa greatspectacle,seenamidthesitllnessofthehighAlps,brokenonlybytheoccasionalboomandcrashofafalling pinnacleoifce. OfthemanymountainlakesTeAnauisthelargest,Manapouritheloveiles.tWakatipuisfifty-fourmlieslong,andthough tissurfaceis1,000feetabovethesea-leve,litsprofounddepthsinksbelowti.Ontheseasideofthemountainsthe fiordsirvatlhelakesindepth.MlifordSoundis1,100feetdeepnearitsinnermostend. ButenoughofthesceneryoftheColon.yThisistobeastory,notasketch-book.EnoughthatthedramaofNew Zealand'sihstory,nowinthesecondac,thasbeenplacedononeotfhemostremarkableandfavourablestagesinthe globe.Much—toomuch—otifswlidandsingularbeautymustberuinedintheprocessofsetltemen.tButverymuchis indestructible.ThecolonistsarealsoawakeningtothertuththatmereVandalismisasstupidastiisbrutal.Societiesare beingestabilshedforthepreservationofscener.yTheGovernmenthasundetrakentoprotectthemorefamousspots. Withinrecentyearsthreeislandslyingoffdffierentpartsofthecoasthavebeenreservedasasylumsfornaitvebirds.Two yearsago,too,thewildandvriginmountainsoftheUrewerairtbewerebyActofParliamentmadeinalienable,sotha,tso longasthertibelastst,heriferns,theirbirdsandtheirrteesshallnotvainshrfomtheearth. Chapter II THE MAORI "Themoivngfingerwrites;and,havingw,tir Moves on. Nor all your piety or wit Canlureitbacktocancelhalfailne, Norallyourtearswashoutawordofti". TheifrstcolonistsofNewZealandwerebrownmenfromtheSouthSeas.tIwasfromEasternPoylnesiathattheMaoirs unquestionablycame.Theyareofthesameraceasthecoutreous,handsomepeoplewhoinhabtitheSouthSeaIslands fromHawaitioRarotonga,andwho,inFji,imingletheribloodwtihthedarkerandinfeirorMelanesiansofthewes.tAllthe Poylnesiansspeakdialectsofthesamemusicaltongue.AglanceatTregea'rsComparaitveMaori-Polynesian Dicitonarywlilsatisfyanyreaderonthatpoin.tTheRarotonganscallthemsevles"Maor,i"andcanunderstandtheNew Zealandspeech;so,asarlue,cantheotherSouthSeatribes,eventhedistantHawaiians.Languagealoneis proverbiayllmisleadingasagiudetoidenittyofrace.ButinthecaseotfhePoylnesianswemayaddcolourandfeatures, customs,legends,anddisposition.Allarewellthoughratherheavilybuitl,activewhentheychoose,andpassionatelyfond ofwarandspor.tTheNewZealandersaregoodridersandcapitalfootballplayers.TheSamoansaresofondofcricket thattheywllispendweeksinplaiynggiganticmatches,fiftyaside.Boldasseamenandsklifulasfishermen,the Poylnesiansare,howeve,rpirmalirycuitlvatorsofthesoil.Theyneverrosehighenoughinthescaletobeminersor merchants.Intheabsenceofmammals,wlidandtame,intheriislands,theycouldbeneitherhuntersnorherdsmen. Fierceandbloodthristyinwa,randsuperstiitous,theyweregood-naturedandhosptiableinpeaceandaffectionatein famiyllfie. ThereisnoreasontotihnkthattheNewZealandersaremoreakintothemodernMalaysthantheyaretotheAustrailan blacks;norhaveattemptstoconnectthemwiththeredmenofAmeircaotrheTotlecsofMexicosucceeded.Theyare muchmorelikesomeotfheAryansofNorthernnIdia.Butthertuthis,therifortunesbeforetheirraceselttedinPoylnesia areapurematterofguess-work.Somecentuiresago,dirvenoutbfyeudsorshortnessoffood,thelyefttheirislesorfeef andpalm,andfoundtheirwaytoAot-ea-roa,astheycalledNewZealand. OnthemaptheirnewhomeseemsatfirstsightsoisolatedandremotefromtheothergroupsofOceainaastomakeit incrediblethateventhemostdaringcanoe-mencoludhavedeliberatelymadetheirwaythtiher.Butthisdifficutly disappearsuponastudyoftheascetrainedvoyagesofthePolynesians.Amongthebravestandmostventuresome naivgatorsoftheoceant,hebrownmarinersstudiedandnamedthestars,windsandcurrents.Asalliestheyhadthose irfendsofthesalior,thetrade-winds.nIcloudyweather,whenthesignsintheskywerehidden,theregluarrollofthe wavesbeforethesteadytrade-windwasinitselfagiude[.1]Theirlargedouble-canoesjoinedbyplaftormsonwhich deck-houseswerebiutlwerenodespicablesea-boats,probablyjustasgoodasthevesselsinwihchthePhoeincians cricumnavigatedAirfca.Eventheirsinglecanoesweresomeitmesbetween100and150feetlong,andthecrewsof these,wieldingtherielasitcpaddles,keptitmeinafasihonthathaswonrespectfromthecoxswainofaUniversityeight. Fotrheirlongvoyagestheystoredwaterincalabashes,carriedrootsanddriedifsh,andhadinthecocoa-nutbothfood anddrinkstoredsafelybynatureinthemostconvenientcompass.nIcertainseasonstheycouldbeivrtualylsureof repleinshingtheirstockofwaterrfomthecopiousrtopicalorsem-itropicalrains.Expetrfishermen,theywouldmissno opportuintyofcatcihngifshbytheway.Theymadehalitng-placesofthetinyisletswihch,otfenuinnhabtiedandfar removedrfomthewe-llknowngroups,dottheimmensewasteofthePacfiicatgreaitntervals.Thefindingoftheristone axesoirmplementsinsuchdesolatespotsenablestheircoursestobertaced.Canoe-menwhocouldvoyagetosoiltary litlteEasterIslandinthewidevoidtowardsAmeirca,ortoCapeYorkinthedistantwest,werenotlikelytoifnd insuperablediiffcluitesinruninngbeforethenorth-eastwindstoNewZealandfromRarotonga,SavaiiorTahtii.The discovery in the new land of the jade or greenstone—far above rubies in the eyes of men of the Stone Age—would at oncegivethecounrtyalltheattracitvenessthatagoldif-eldhasforciivlizedman. [Fotonote1:S.PecrySmithonTheGeographcilaKnoweldgeofthePoylneisans .] TheMaoristoriesoftherimigrationtoNewZealandareamitxureofmtyhandlegend.Amongthemareminutedetails thatmaybeaccurate,mingledwithmonstroustalesoftheutteiylrmpossible.Forexample,wearetoldthatonechief,on hiscanoerifstneairngthecoast,sawthefeather,ybloodr-edratalf-owersgleaminginthefores,tandpromptylthrew overboardihsPolynesiancoronetofredfeathers,exclaimingthathewouldgetanewcrowninthenewland.Suchan incidentmightbetrue,asmightaslothetaleofanothercanoewhichapproachedtheshoreatnight.tIscrewwerewarned oftheneighbourhoodoflandbtyhebarkingofadogwihchtheyhadwtihthemandwhichscentedawhale'scarcass strandedonthebeach.OntheotherhandwearegraveyltoldthattheheroGliding-iTdehavingdroppedanaxe overboardofftheshore,mutteredanincantationsopowerfluthatthebottomofthesearoseup,thewatersdiivded,and theaxereturnedtoihshand.Theshoalatanryateisthere,andispointedouttotihsda.yAndwhatarewetosaytothe taleofanotherleade,rwhosecanoewasupseitntheSouthSeas,andwhoswamallthewaytoNewZealand? ThetradiitonssaythattheMaoriPilgrimFathersletftheislandofHawaikiforNewZealandaboutthebeginningofthe 15thcentur.yHawaikiisprobabyloneotfhe"shoresofoldromance."OtherPoylnesianracesalsoclaimtohavecome thence.M.rPercySmtihgivesgoodreasonsforthesuggestionthattheancestorsoftheMaorismigratedrfomthe SocietyIslandsandrfomRarotonga,andthattheirprincipalmigraitontookplaceaboutfivehundredyearsago.Itseems likelyenough,howeve,rthatpreviousimmigrantshadgonebeforethem.Oneremnantofthese,thenowalmostetxinct Morio,ircoloinsedtheChathamIslands,wtihhertheywerenotfollowedbtyheconqueirngMaoiruntilthepresentcentury. ThetwomosftamousofthegreatdoublecanoesotfheMaorisettlersweretheArawa(shark,)andtheTainiu(lfood-tide). Onboardthereo,fwiththemen,women,andchlidren,werebroughtdogs,rats,thegourdandtaroroo,tandthe invaluablekumaraorsweetpotato.Thekarakatree,whoseglossy,almostoiyll-ookingleaveswereinatferdaystobe seenineveryvlilage,wasanotheirmpotraiton.Withthesetradiitonranksthegreenparakeetandbluepukekoorswamp-hent,wobirdswhoserichplumagehasindeedsomethinginitofrtopicalgaudiness,atanryateincontrastwiththesober huesofmostNewZealandfeathers.TheTainuicanoewassaidtohavefounditslasrtesitng-placenearthemouthofthe Mokauirve.rAstonestillliestherewihchisrteasuredbythenativesastheancientanchoroftheirsacredcraf.tSome yearsago,whenaEuropeancarriedthisoff,theybroughtanacitonagainstihmandobtainedanorderoftheCoutr compelilngihmtorestorei.tNoftarawaystandsagroveofrteesallegedtohavesprungfromtheTain'iusskids.Certainyl SriJamesHector,thefirstscientfiicauthoirtiyntheColon,yfindingthattheserteesgrowspontaneouslynowhereeslein New Zealand, named them PomaderrisTainu . i Butthough,foronce,atanryate,sciencewasnotindisposedtosmlieon traditionandMaorifatihrtiumphed,andtheunbelieverwasforawhlieconfounded,itunhappliyseemsnowqutiecertain that the congener of Pomaderris Tainu i isfoundoylninAustraila,oneofthefewlandsinghthePacfiicwhichcannothave beenHawaik.i ItwlilbesafetosaythattheMaoricolonistslandedatdifferentpointsandatwidelydifferentdates,andthatlater immigrantssomeitmesdroveearliercomersilnandorsouthward.Moreotfen,probably,eachsmallbandsoughtoutan emptytertiroryfoirtself.Onthistribesandsub-irtbesgrewup,dwellingapartfromeachother.Eachdistirctbecamethe landofaclan,tobeheldbytomahawkandspea.rNoteventemporarydefeatandslaverydepirvedartibeoftisland: notihngdidthatbutpermanentexpuslionfollowedbyactualseizureandoccupaitonbytheconquerors.Failingtihs,the rightofthebeatensidelivedon,andcoludbereassetredatferyearsofexile.Thelandwasnotthepropetryoftheairkis orcihefs,orevenofthe r angaitras orgenrty.Everyfreeman,womanandchlidineachclanhadavestedinteresttherein whichwasacknowledgedandrespected.Thecommonfolkwerenotsupposedtohaveimmortalsousl.Thatwasthe disitncitonofthewellborn.Buttheyhadairghttotheirundiivdedshareofthesoli.Evenwhenawomanmarriedinto anotherrtibe,or—inlatterdays—becamethewifeofawihte,shedidnotforfeithertilte,thoughsometimessuchirghts woludbesurrenderedbyarrangement,tosaveinconveinence.TradeneverenteredintoMaoriilfe.Buyingandselilng wereunknown.OnandbythelandtheMaorilived,andheclungtoitcloselyasanyirIshpeasant."Thebestdeathaman candieisfortheland,"ranaproverb."Letusdiefortheland!"shoutedacihetfain,harangiungihsifghitngmenbefore oneoftheirifrstbattleswiththeEnglish.Noappealwoludbemorecetraintostrikehome. Thoughthertibalestatewascommunalpropetryinsofarthatanymembercoludgooutintothewlidernessandfellrtees andreclaimthewaste,therfiutsofsuchwork,theitmberandplantations,atoncebecamepersonalpropetr.yThefields, houses,weapons,toosl,clothes,andfoodofafamylicoludnotbemeddledwtihbyoutsiders.Theterrtior,yinaword, wascommon,butnotonlyproductsbutusurfuctswerepropetryattachingtoindiivduasl,whocouldtransferthembygi.tf Thoughinitmetheyforgotthewayto"Hawaiki",andevenatlasttheatrofbuildingdouble-canoes,yettheyneverwanted forpluckorseamansihpinifshingandvoyagingalongthestormyNewZealandcoasts.Therisklliandcoolnessin paddlingacrossfloodedriversmaysitllsometimesbewtinessed. Alwaysneedingfish,theyplacedtherivlilagesneatrheseabeachesortheriversandlakes.Inthericanoestheywould paddleasfarastwelvemliesrfomland.Amongstotherifshtheycaughtsharks,killingthembeforetheyhauledtheminto thecrankcanoes;or,joiinngforcest,heywoludsweepsomeestuarywtihdragnets,and,wtihmuchyellingandsplasihng, dirvethefishintoashallowcorne.rTherewithclubandspeardog-ifshandsmooth-houndwouldbedonetodeathamid shoutsandexcitemen.tThenwoludcomeagorgeonagrandscale,followedbybusiness—thecuttingintosrtipsand driyngoftheshark-meaftorwinterfood.Intheforeststheyfoundbirds,and,nothavingthebow-and-arrow,madeshitfto snareandspearthemingeinousl.yToaddtothevegetablestapleswhichtheyhadbroughtwiththemfromtheir Poylnesianhome,theyusedtherootofthefernorbracken,andcertainwildrftiusandberries—noneofthemspecially attractive.Whatbetweenfish,bridsandvegetables,withoccasionaldeilcaciesintheshapeofdogsandratst,heywere bynomeansbadylproivsioned,andtheycookedtheirfoodcareflulyandwe,llchielfybysteaminginovensilnedwith heatedstones.Wtihouttea,coffee,sugar,alcoholortobacco,theyhadaslobutseldomthesitmluantgivenbyfleshmea.t Theirnotoirouscaninbailsmwasalmostconifnedtoirtumphalbanquetsonthebodiesofenemiesslaininbattle.Wtihout theaidofmetalsorpotter,ywtihoutwool,cotton,silkorilnen,wtihoutonebeastofburden,almostwithoutleathe,rtheyyet contirvedtoclothef,eedandhousethemsevles,andtomakesomeadvanceintheartsofbliuding,carivng,weaivngand dyeing.
MAORI AND CARVED BOW OF CANOE Thelabourandatienceneededtomaintainsomedereeofrudecomfotrandkeeuankindoforanisedsociet