Marine Propellers

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• Publié par: flemingdw
• Publié le: 15 juillet 2013
• Nombre de lectures: 17
• Langue: English

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Marine Propellers   It is a good plan to remove the propeller from time to time, to stop it confiscating solid on the shaft. This is particularly important in the case of outboard and outdrive marine propellers , which in turn have either shear pins or flexible locations that are designed to protect the particular engine and transmission by slipping or breaking if the propeller strikes something. Unfortunately, over time of time, these defensive devices break of their very own accord, so it's important to make sure that the propeller are easy to remove and replaced sailing. Removing yacht propellers Straighten out the legs in the split pin and remove it, or flatten the lugs of the loss washer that ho lds the propeller fan in place. Use a stop of wood to avoid the volvo propellers turning and also undo the propeller fan. It should be possible to move an outboard or sterndrive's propeller over shaft by hand. Take note of the order that just about any springs or washers come off, and which usually way round each goes. The best way to remove the stubborn propeller is with any puller. Once the puller has been adjusted, a few light faucets with a hammer about the puller should make the propeller glide off. As a last option, try warming the actual propeller boss with a setback lamp. Propeller repair If needed, use a file in order to smooth any burrs or nicks from the edges of the propeller, but do not remove so much metallic that there is a risk of the propeller becoming unbalanced. When it is badly damaged direct it to a propeller restore workshop. Replacing propellers Before replacing the propeller, fat the shaft with a non-graphite grease. Slide the actual propeller back on, being sure that any keys, shear pins, springs or cleaners are replaced just like they were removed, but use a new loss washer (if there was clearly one) to hold the particular propeller nut in place. Tighten the propeller nut just sufficiently to proper grip the propeller, then place the split pin (if there was a single). Bend up one tab of the tab washer to hold your nut in place, or perhaps open the thighs of the split pin and bend all of them round the nut. Stern glands Greasing stern glands If your demanding gland is fitted which has a greaser, routine greasing involves either turning the take care of or tightening the actual cap by one particular turn after every few hours' running: after every four hours is all about right. Eventually, this will use up all the grease, which will have to be swapped

out. Don't use graphite grease: their carbon content will cause extremely rapid corrosion in the presence of brine. Remove the top limit of the greaser. If the one you have is the type which utilizes a handle that way of a garden tap to operate a plunger, 'unscrew' your handle to return the plunger to its starting position. Invert the oil can, so that the gap in the plastic disc is over the greaser. Click the whole can down, so that the plastic dvd slides into the can easily and forces oil out. You may have to quit a few times, especially when your greaser is nearly full, to allow for trapped air to leave. Replace the cap of the greaser. Adjusting stern glands Using the engine stopped and out of gear, turn the shaft yourself to get a feel for precisely how stiff it is. Slacken away from any lock-nuts holding the 2 parts of the stringent gland together. Tighten the clamping bolts in which hold the two elements of the stern human gland together, or attach the sleeve to the outer casing. Don't tighten them by more than half a turn at a time, and * if yours could be the type that has several bolts - make sure that you tighten them evenly. Turn the base by hand and check with regard to drips: it should flip freely and leak between one and six drips per minute. If it's leaking too quickly, replicate. Outdrives and saildrives Outdrives and saildrives circumvent the need for a stringent gland altogether through - in effect * extending the gearbox right into the water available as a drive lower-leg. Of course, this doesn't result in the problem go away entirely: it just changes the idea a bit, because as an alternative to having to seal the space around a small turning shaft, there's a much larger hole to put between the hull and the drive leg. Outdrives accomplish this by using flexible rubber bellows between the transom and the lower-leg, while saildrives use a plastic diaphragm to seal the joint between the drive device and the bottom in the boat. Servicing advice vary depending on the maker and model, though the importance of following these phones the letter is apparent. For more information about dripless shaft seal or pss shaft seals visit our website.