Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2

Anon

Description

Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

Sujets

• Patternmaking

Informations

• Publié par: Read Books Ltd.
• Date de parution: 06 août 2020
• Nombre de lectures: 2
• EAN13: 9781528763615
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 4 Mo

Extrait

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE
UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE, PART 1 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE, PART 2
Copyright 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Dressmaking and Tailoring
Dressmaking and Tailoring broadly refers to those who make, repair or alter clothing for a profession. A dressmaker will traditionally make custom clothing for women, ranging from dresses and blouses to full evening gowns (also historically called a mantua-maker or a modiste). Whereas a tailor will do the same, but usually for men s clothing - especially suits. The terms essentially refer to a specific set of hand and machine sewing skills, as well as pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional clothing. This is separate to made to measure , which uses a set of preexisting patterns. Usually, a bespoke tailored suit or dress will be completely original and unique to the customer, and hence such items have been highly desirable since the trade first appeared in the thirteenth century. The Oxford English Dictionary states that the word tailor first came into usage around the 1290s, and undoubtedly by this point, tailoring guilds, as well as those of cloth merchants and weavers were well established across Europe.
As the tailoring profession has evolved, so too have the methods of tailoring. There are a number of distinctive business models which modern tailors may practice, such as local tailoring where the tailor is met locally, and the garment is produced locally too, distance tailoring , where a garment is ordered from an out-of-town tailor, enabling cheaper labour to be used - which, in practice can now be done on a global scale via e-commerce websites, and a travelling tailor , where the man or woman will travel between cities, usually stationing in a luxury hotel to provide the client the same tailoring services they would provide in their local store. These processes are the same for both women s and men s garment making.
Pattern making is a very important part of this profession; the construction of a paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting our and assembling. A custom dressmaker (or tailor) frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods; a flat-pattern method which begins with the creation of a sloper or block (a basic pattern for a garment, made to the wearer s measurements), which can then be used to create patterns for many styles of garments, with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements and so on. Although it is also used for womenswear, the drafting method is more commonly employed in menswear and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves. Since menswear rarely involves draping, pattern-making is the primary preparation for creating a cut-and-sew woven garment. The third method, the pattern draping method is used when the patternmaker s skill is not matched with the difficulty of the design. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern, by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
Dressmaking and tailoring has become a very well respected profession; dressmakers such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Crist bal Balenciaga and Coco Chanel have gone on to achieve international acclaim and fashion notoriety. Balmain, known for sophistication and elegance, once said that dressmaking is the architecture of movement. Whilst tailors, due to the nature of their profession - catering to men s fashions, have not garnered such levels of individual fame, areas such as Savile Row in the United Kingdom are today seen as the heart of the trade.
PREFACE
To be well-dressed means the right choice of clothes and the proper wearing of them. And this includes not only outer apparel, but undergarments as well. In fact, underwear plays a larger part in the smart and well-groomed appearance of a woman than most persons realize. Unless the right foundations are chosen and worn, a woman will never look her best nor express the height of feminine charm, regardless of how beautiful her clothes are, how well they fit her, nor how becoming they are.
Because of the importance of underwear and lingerie in the subject of clothes, we have devoted this entire book to the various types. It covers not only such undergarments as combinations, brassi res, panties, slips, and petticoats, but also such varieties of intimate apparel as nightgowns, pajamas, neglig es, bathrobes, and bed jackets.
In presenting each type, we have shown the outstanding varieties, have discussed the suitable materials, colors, and trimmings for them, and have then taken up all the details of making. This information will be of inestimable value to you in the making of any of the garments shown. But the knowledge you acquire need not be confined to those illustrated. Rather, you may apply it to any other garments that contain similar features and points of making. In fact, it is yours for all time to be used on any undergarments or other apparel that you may wish to make.
It is this enduring quality of sewing information that makes the gaining of it valuable. The style features of clothes may change from time to time, but there is practically no variation in the methods of making. So, once you know how to seam, finish, and trim a certain kind of undergarment, you can use this knowledge wherever it applies.
Following the garments themselves occurs a section dealing with the different types of hand-work that is effective as trimming on certain types of lingerie. With the aid of the various stitches included, you can give the garments you make that touch of distinction so much desired and so expensive if measured in actual money.
The contents of this book, when thoroughly mastered, will make it possible for you to have at small cost the underwear and lingerie you need or want. And, in addition, it will enable you, if you so desire, to make garments of this kind for others or for shops that specialize in this kind of work. No form of sewing is in greater demand nor brings better prices than lingerie that is distinctively designed and beautifully made.
CONTENTS
UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE, PART 1
A DVANTAGES OF M AKING U NDERWEAR
C HEMISES
Nature of Chemises - Materials and Colors - Trimmings - Making Chemises - Applying Construction Details - Darts - Seams - Opening Finishes - Top and Lower-Edge Finishes - Shoulder Straps .
B RASSI RES
Nature of Brassi res - Materials and Colors - Trimmings - Seam Finishes - Edge Finishes - Nature and Types - Facings - Bindings - Openings .
P ANTIES , B LOOMERS, AND S HORTS
Nature - Varieties - Materials and Colors - Trimmings - Making Panties, Bloomers, Shorts - Seam Finishes - Opening Finishes - Waist-Line Finishes - Lower-Edge Finishes .
UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE, PART 2
C OSTUME S LIPS
Nature of Slips - Purpose - Types - Shadow-Proof Slips - Materials - Colors - Trimmings - Seams - Top Finishes - Facings, Bindings, Hems - Lace Finishes - Lower-Edge Finishes .
P ETTICOATS
Characteristics and Uses - Construction .
N IGHTGOWNS
Uses and Requirements - Nature and Purpose - Materials - Colors - Trimmings - Seams - Opening Finishes - Neck-Line, Armhole, and Sleeve Finishes - Lower-Edge Finishes .
P AJAMAS
Nature and Uses - Purpose - Materials - Colors - Trimmings - Seam Finishes - Opening Finishes - Edge Finishes .
N EGLIG ES AND B ATHROBES
Nature and Uses - Materials - Colors - Seams - Top Finishes - Lower-Edge Finishes - The Belt and Its Finish - Varieties and Making - Belt Loops .
B ED J ACKETS
Materials - Colors - Trimmings - Seams - Edge Finishes .
H AND -W ORK AS L INGERIE T RIMMING
Varieties - Appliqu - Combination Motif - Monograms - Fagoting - Quilting .
UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE (PART 1)
ADVANTAGES OF MAKING UNDERWEAR
1. Feminine Appeal. -Smart clothes always intrigue the woman who is interested in her appearance. But there is something so appealing about dainty undergarments that there s no woman living who is not charmed by them and eager to have all the different varieties she needs. This desire she can satisfy when she is able to make them herself because of the saving possible. And not only can she have a sufficient number, but she can fit them to her individual figure perfectly and plan them to suit the outer garments with which she will wear them.
2. Characteristics of Good Underwear. -Lingerie should be dainty, practical, and, for general wear, simple. At the same time, it must always be remembered that carefully fitted and correctly designed undergarments are a necessity if outer garments are to be properly effective. A well-groomed appearance really means correctness in every detail. And there is nothing that adds so much to a woman s poise and assurance as the feeling that her undergarments as well as her outer ones are in harmony with each other as well as right for the occasion.
The saying, The art of being well-dressed is not so much a matter of expense as of discrimination, holds true in connection with lingerie, as well as in the choice of dresses, suits, and wraps. Even the most inexpensive undergarments, if carefully chosen, will express as much refinement, good taste, and common sense as the most elaborate and expensive ones. And, no matter how meager may be her purse, every woman can have dainty, neat, well-fitting lingerie if she chooses her materials carefully and her de