Berlitz Pocket Guide China (Travel Guide eBook)
183 pages

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Berlitz Pocket Guide China (Travel Guide eBook)


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183 pages

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With an iconic style and a bestselling brand, this is the quintessential pocket-sized travel guide to China - now with a bilingual dictionary

Plan your trip, plan perfect days and discover how to get around - this pocket-sized guide is a convenient, quick-reference companion to discovering fun and interesting things to do and see in China, from top tourist attractions like the Great Wall, Li River, Terracotta Army, Forbidden City and the Bund, to hidden gems, including Suzhou, Chengdu and Kunming.

What to see: comprehensive coverage of the country's attractions, illustrated with striking photography
What to do: how to make the most of your leisure time, from local entertainment to the best activities and shopping
History and culture: giving you a deeper understanding of the country's heritage, people and contemporary life
Practical tips: where to stay, dining out and how to get around: reliable recommendations and expert travel advice
Dictionary: quick-reference bilingual language guide to help you with vocabulary on the ground
Covers: Beijing, the Northeast and Inner Mongolia, Northern Heartlands, Shanghai the Lower Yangzi, Southern China, Southwest China and Northwest China.

About Berlitz: Berlitz draws on years of travel and language expertise to bring you a wide range of travel and language products, including travel guides, maps, phrase books, language-learning courses, dictionaries and kids' language products.



Publié par
Date de parution 01 juin 2019
Nombre de lectures 0
EAN13 9781785732119
Langue English
Poids de l'ouvrage 3 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0015€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.


How To Use This E-Book

Getting Around the e-Book
This Pocket Guide e-book is designed to give you inspiration and planning advice for your visit to China, and is also the perfect on-the-ground companion for your trip.
The guide begins with our selection of Top 10 Attractions, plus a Perfect Itinerary feature to help you plan unmissable experiences. The Introduction and History chapters paint a vivid cultural portrait of China, and the Where to Go chapter gives a complete guide to all the sights worth visiting. You will find ideas for activities in the What to Do section, while the Eating Out chapter describes the local cuisine and gives listings of the best restaurants. The Travel Tips offer practical information to help you plan your trip. Finally, there are carefully selected hotel listings.
In the Table of Contents and throughout this e-book you will see hyperlinked references. Just tap a hyperlink once to skip to the section you would like to read. Practical information and listings are also hyperlinked, so as long as you have an external connection to the internet, you can tap a link to go directly to the website for more information.
All key attractions and sights in China are numbered and cross-referenced to high-quality maps. Wherever you see the reference [map], tap once to go straight to the related map. You can also double-tap any map for a zoom view.
You’ll find lots of beautiful high-resolution images that capture the essence of China. Simply double-tap an image to see it in full-screen.
About Berlitz Pocket Guides
The Berlitz story began in 1877 when Maximilian Berlitz devised his revolutionary method of language learning. More than 130 years later, Berlitz is a household name, famed not only for language schools but also as a provider of best-selling language and travel guides.
Our wide-ranging travel products – printed travel guides and phrase books, as well as apps and ebooks – offer all the information you need for a perfect trip, and are regularly updated by our team of expert local authors. Their practical emphasis means they are perfect for use on the ground. Wherever you’re going – whether it’s on a short break, the trip of a lifetime, a cruise or a business trip – we offer the ideal guide for your needs.
Our Berlitz Pocket Guides are the perfect choice if you need reliable, concise information in a handy format. We provide amazing value for money – these guides may be small, but they are packed with information. No wonder they have sold more than 45 million copies worldwide.
© 2019 Apa Digital (CH) AG and Apa Publications (UK) Ltd

Table of Contents
China’s Top 10 Attractions
Top Attraction #1
Top Attraction #2
Top Attraction #3
Top Attraction #4
Top Attraction #5
Top Attraction #6
Top Attraction #7
Top Attraction #8
Top Attraction #9
Top Attraction #10
A Perfect Tour Of China
Language and ‘Chineseness’
Geography and Climate
Teeming Cities
Exploiting the Land
The Great Leap Forward
The ‘Second Revolution’
Life on the Farm
Tourist Excursions
Eating and Shopping
Exotic Entertainment
Notes about Spelling
A Brief History
The First Dynasties
The Chinese Empire
The Three Kingdoms
The Glory of the Tang
The Song Dynasty
Under Mongol Rule
The Brilliance of Ming
Pigtails and Prosperity
War with Japan
The Bitter Years of War
Imposing the New Order
The Republic after Mao
Contemporary China
China’s Century
Historical Highlights
Where To Go
Beijing in History
Tiananmen Square
Forbidden City (Gu Gong)
Parks and Pavilions
Temple of Heaven Park
Top Temples
An Ancient Observatory, Zoo and Aquarium
Hutong and Courtyards
Shopping Districts
The Summer Palace
The 2008 Olympics
Excursions from Beijing
The Great Wall
The Ming Tombs
The Eastern Qing Tombs
The Northeast and Inner Mongolia
Daoli Old Town
Ice and Snow Festival
The Grasslands
Northern Heartlands
The Yungang Caves
Jinan and Taishan
German Town
The Longmen Caves
The City Wall
Religious Sites
Excursions from Xi’an
Terracotta Warriors
Huaqing Hot Springs
Qianling Tombs
Shanghai in History
The Port and Bund
Around Nanjing Road
The Old City
The French Quarter
‘New’ Shanghai: Pudong
Outlying Sights
Entertainment and Cuisine
The Lower Yangzi
Suzhou’s Gardens
Wuxi’s Gardens
Lake Tai
West Lake
From Monastery to Plantation
Longjing Tea
Nanjing Sights
Around Nanjing
Wuhan Sights
Southern China
Guangzhou in History
Parks and Monuments
Shamian Island
Hunan Province
Elsewhere in Hunan
Jingdezhen, Jiangxi Province
Mt Lushan
Gulangyu Island
Southwest China
Limestone Pinnacles
Li River Boat Trip
Huangguoshu Falls, Guizhou Province
Mt Emei
Chongqing Sights
Excursions from Chongqing
Yangzi River Cruise
The Dazu Caves
Lake Dian
The Stone Forest
Around Dali
Northwest China
The Mogao Caves
Crescent Moon Lake
Excursions from Turpan
Around Urumqi
What To Do
What to Buy
Chinese Opera
Puppets, Acrobats and Folklore Groups
Concerts and Ballet
Traditional Festivals
Eating Out
What to Eat
When to Eat
Surviving a Banquet
Regional Cuisines
Conventions of the Table
What to drink
A–Z Travel Tips
Bicycle Hire
Budgeting for Your Trip
Car Hire
Crime and Safety
Embassies in Beijing
Gay and Lesbian Travellers
Getting There
Guides and Tours
Health and Medical Care
Laundry and Dry Cleaning
Lost Property
Opening Hours
Post Offices
Public Holidays
Telephone, email and internet
Time Zones
Tourist Information
Visa and Entry Requirements
Youth Hostels

China’s Top 10 Attractions

Top Attraction #1
Getty Images

Li River
Take a boat trip to see river life against a stunning backdrop. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #2
Lee Hin Mun/Apa Publications

The Great Wall of China
It winds from the Yellow Sea to the Gobi Desert. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #3

The Forbidden City
This vast area was the Imperial Palace of the Ming dynasty. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #4
Brice Minnigh/Apa Publications

Terracotta warriors
An emperor’s 2,000-year-old army, near Xi’an. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #5

A lovely old village with a stunning mountain backdrop. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #6

Centre for Tibetan culture, site of the imposing Potala Palace. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #7
David Shen-Kai/Apa Publications

Famous for its canals and classical gardens. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #8
Getty Images

Shaolin Monastery
The birthplace of martial arts. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #9
Ryan Pyle/Apa Publications

The colonial and modern coexist in this dynamic city. For more information, click here .

Top Attraction #10

Yangzi River
Cruise down the Yangzi from Chongqing through the magnificent Three Gorges. For more information, click here .

A Perfect Tour Of China

Days 1–2

Spend an afternoon walking from Tiananmen Square through the Forbidden City to Beihai Park. After dusk, dine at one of the restaurants along the Shichahai Lakes or go for home-style food on the old Nan Luogu Xiang pedestrian alley nearby. The next day, take a coach to the Mutianyu Great Wall and hike up its steps through ancient guard towers.

Day 3

Take the overnight train to Taiyuan and proceed by coach to Pingyao. Pass through the gates of this Ming- and Qing-dynasty banking burgh’s 6km (4-mile long) protective wall into a Unesco Heritage Site of old homes and shops.

Day 4

Xi’an is best known for the terracotta warriors, hundreds of lifelike statues buried over 2,000 years ago to guard the emperor.

Days 5–6

Fly to China’s biggest and richest city, Shanghai. Ascend the Oriental Pearl TV Tower for a magnificent panorama, then cross the Huangpu River for a walk through the Old Town (Nanshi). Hang out on the Bund at night for views of the active riverfront. On the second day, explore the French Concession and Xintiandi.

Day 7

Travel by train to Suzhou for a tour of its numerous historic, immaculately landscaped gardens, such as Forest of Lions and Master of the Nets. Between gardens, peek down into canals where locals still commute by boat.

Day 8

Travel by train or coach to nearby Hangzhou for a walk around the wooded West Lake. Stop for pavilion-gazing and cups of locally grown Longjing green tea.

Days 9–10

Fly to Guilin. Hike to Catch-Cloud Pavilion for 360-degree views of the city known for its limestone peaks. Walk into the mountains at Reed Flute Cave, where the largest chamber can hold 1,000 people. Next day, take the 4–5-hour trip along the Li River to see the amazing scenery and visit the riverside town of Yangshuo.

Day 11

Board a train to the Sichuan provincial capital, Chengdu. See the pandas at Chengdu Zoo and take in the city’s relaxed temples, leaving time to sip tea outdoors as per local tradition. Eat the spiced yet fragrant food that has put Sichuan province on the world culinary map.

Days 12–14

Yangzi River
From Chengdu, take a day trip to Leshan for views of the world’s largest seated Buddha replica. Then embark on a two-day Yangzi River cruise from Chongqing through the magnificent Three Gorges and the new dam to Yichang.


Ancient, vast, evolving and exciting, China is the trip of a lifetime. It also happens to be a place that almost everyone in the world is talking about. Economists, historians, filmmakers, heads of state and business executives are among those watching closely as the country changes at a lightning pace.

A typical pavilion with upturned roofs, in Changsha, Hunan
Getty Images
China’s beauties – both natural and man-made – vie for attention. Imagine mist-muffled hills silhouetted behind sampans on a winding river; proud pavilions of brilliant red and gold; the Great Wall undulating over ridges and mountains receding far into the distance; an elegant porcelain vase that has survived for centuries. In China all the senses are engaged. Touch a 2,000-year-old inscription in stone or a bolt of newly woven silk. Taste the food once served to emperors. Listen to children singing. Smell the temple incense or the scent of a fresh melon in the marketplace.

English spoken

English is the most widely spoken foreign language in China. Millions of Chinese study English in college or school (starting at the age of six), and through television programmes. However, for many, English is just a tool to pass tests, long forgotten after studies have ended. A few words of Chinese therefore will greatly enhance any tourist’s visit to China.
Getting to China means crossing more than mere oceans and time zones. It’s another world, culturally, linguistically and ideologically.
It’s a first world and a third world. Ten minutes from your modern hotel, you’ll find water buffalo toiling in rice fields or a farmer and his son, pulling a primitive wagon, loaded with cabbage for market. Villagers might share a public outhouse, while city dwellers have enough money to build mini mansions. This is China today.
Language and ‘Chineseness’
The most obvious source of dislocation for the newly arrived traveller is the language. More people can read Chinese than any other language on earth, but the visitor, bewildered by the elegant characters, finds this no consolation. Spoken Chinese is tonal, making it challenging for Westerners. But knowing a few phrases will go a long way to earning you appreciation from locals. The Chinese themselves speak more than 150 regional dialects – some of them almost separate languages. Someone from the north can scarcely understand a word of the Cantonese spoken in the south. To help everyone communicate, the government encourages the use of an official spoken language, Putonghua (known abroad as ‘Mandarin’), based on the Beijing dialect. Happily, no matter what dialect a Chinese person uses in speech, the written language is universal. In addition, there are China’s ethnic minorities, making up about 8.5 percent of the population, who speak tongues as diverse as Mongolian and Miao, Thai and Tibetan. In parts of the sparsely settled western deserts and mountains, the minorities are the majority.

What to talk about

You should feel free to discuss politics, religion or social problems with Chinese people, but refrain from argument or disrespect towards the country or its leaders. Also keep in mind that many Chinese associate individuals with their governments, and may therefore link travellers to their homeland’s foreign policies, including those disputed by Beijing.
Language aside, the visitor also must figure out the timeless ‘Chineseness’ and the modern overlay of communism. Is the proliferation of bureaucrats a Marxist or a Mandarin touch? Do families live three generations to an apartment because of tradition or because of the housing shortage? Why do Chinese infants almost never cry? Do they feel thoroughly loved or are they conditioned to be docile?

China’s budding gymnasts
David Shen-Kai/Apa Publications
China is the most populous of all countries. This well-known fact comes to life when visitors set foot in the People’s Republic. Around 350,000 babies are born each day, which means that about every eighth child born in the world is Chinese. China (including Taiwan) has more than 150 cities of more than a million inhabitants, and in any of them the rush hour is as hair-raising as a traffic jam in New York or London. In one of the most crowded provinces, Sichuan (Szechuan), you can journey for hours and never lose sight of people or houses, even in the most remote rural areas.
As you travel the country by rail or air, you cannot fail to be impressed by the work-intensive (that is, human work-intensive) agriculture. In the paddy fields you’ll see hundreds of barefoot men and women collecting rice for processing by means of a single, hand-operated threshing machine. Farmers work every inch of ground that isn’t rock or sand or nearly vertical. When you subtract the mountains, deserts and other totally inhospitable terrain, only a small fraction – around 10 percent – of China’s great landmass is under cultivation, and problems are exacerbated by frequent floods, drought and fast-growing urban sprawl.
Geography and Climate
China is the world’s third-largest country by area, covering nearly 9.6 million sq km (3.7 million sq miles). Only Russia and Canada are larger. China is bordered (clockwise from the north) by Mongolia, Russia, North Korea, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, India, Bhutan, Nepal, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
As you might expect over such a huge area, the weather blows hot and cold. It’s about 5,800km (more than 3,600 miles) from northernmost China to the southern extremity, so while northerners are shovelling snow, southerners are sowing rice or vacationing on tropical Hainan island. Most of the rain falls in summer, largely in southern and central China.
The most mountainous part of the country is the west, where the Himalayas reach their apogee with Mt Everest (8,850m/29,035ft), on the China–Nepal border. On the Chinese side, Everest is known as ‘Qomolangma’. It is also in the west that the desert descends to about 150m (nearly 500ft) below sea level, so there’s a vast topographic range. China’s great rivers – the Yangzi, the Yellow and several other less legendary ones – originate in the west, and their waters are put to effective use in irrigation and hydroelectricity projects, irking downstream neighbours in Southeast Asia who get only the dregs. The rivers also electrify Chinese life with the periodic drama of floods, some of which have figured among mankind’s great natural disasters.

Baby Rationing

Chinese toddlers are among the cutest in the world, but between 1979 and 2015, official policy stated families were only permitted to have one child. However, the policy was gradually relaxed in 2013, when offspring from one-child families who married a partner who was also an only child were allowed to have two children. The policy finally ended in 2015 when it was declared that all couples were free to have two children, but many young urban families still opt for a single child, citing reasons such as economic pressures and busy lifestyles.
Teeming Cities
Since the end of World War II, China’s population has doubled to more than 1.34 billion. It is the most populous nation on earth, with more than one-fifth of all of the world’s people. There are 56 ethnic groups in China, of which the Han are by far the largest. Most others are East Asian in appearance and live in the west or the far northeast. Religious beliefs include Buddhism, Daoism, Confucianism, Islam and (for a very small minority) Christianity. Few Chinese devoutly follow any organised religion, due largely to the Communist government’s opposition to it, though ancestor worship and a strikingly profound patriotism permeate much of the nation.

Early-morning taijiquan (t’ai chi) in a Shanghai park
David Henley/Apa Publications
The bulk of China’s vast population is concentrated in the country’s east and south, where even a provincial town might have hundreds of thousands of inhabitants. China has 134 cities with populations of at least half a million. Combining family-planning measures with restrictions on internal migration, the authorities once tried to maintain a constant balance of urban and rural populations by keeping the great majority in the countryside (around 60 percent). Despite these efforts, millions of surplus farm labourers pour into the cities in search of work. As a result, China’s big cities are immense.
Riding a bicycle to work across any of these cities can be a daily chore taking one or two hours. The number of cars in China’s cities has exploded since the turn of the century, making cycling more hazardous. It has also deepened the pollution problem caused by exhaust fumes spewed out from heavy trucks and buses. Rush-hour traffic jams are so severe in Beijing that even commuter rail lines opened over the past decade can’t ease what people in the capital call a ‘paralysis’ in the streets.

Modern China: Shanghai’s glittering skyline
The prospect of a long trek to the factory is only one of the disadvantages of big-city life. The housing is cramped and usually drab (though the fast-growing middle class has remodelled many of those units, while developers carve out swathes of older cities for ornate high-rises). Shopping can be time-consuming and inconvenient due to crowds and traffic jams. But life in town is generally much more comfortable than in the countryside with facilities available from hospitals to schools.
Wages range from a dollar per day in the countryside to thousands of yuan per month for urban white-collar workers. Costs of living in China are a fraction of those in the West, though Beijing and Shanghai are quickly losing their bargain status to inflation. Still, rent might run to only 100 yuan per month in rural areas, and basic foods are cheap.
The ‘iron ricebowl’ concept of assured income regardless of productivity was once as firm a tradition as the daily siesta. For hundreds of millions of peasants, poverty was shared equally. Then, to the consternation of hard-line Communist theoreticians the post-Mao leadership decided to reward extra effort and good ideas with old-fashioned money.
Exploiting the Land
China’s soil is often unproductive, the climate is capricious, and the enormous population is constantly increasing. A drought or typhoon can still upset the balance between the supply of food and the demand, however modest each individual’s requirements.
Every available scrap of usable land, including plots that seem impossibly arid or inaccessible, has to be exploited to the very limit, regardless of the scarcity of tractors, trucks, pumps, pipes and other equipment. The problem is certainly not new, but the solutions adopted are. When the Communists came to power in 1949, about 10 percent of the population owned 70 percent of the land. The ideological breakthrough began on the farm, where reformers took aim at decades of lacklustre agricultural production; high costs, low yields and mismanagement had made farming uneconomical.
Realising that the people and the land were the country’s most vital assets, the new regime set out to reorganise agriculture along more profitable lines. While allowing peasant smallholders to retain their property, the authorities confiscated land from wealthy landlords and redistributed the bulk of it to the previously landless masses. Slowly a new agricultural order evolved.
The Great Leap Forward
To start with, mutual aid teams were formed in which labour, draught animals and implements were pooled. The next step was the development of cooperatives, in which land, animals and tools were held in common and income was shared. Sometimes as many as 200 families from one or more villages would join forces. Revenue would be collectively owned and invested for the welfare of all.

Rice terraces in Guangxi: farmers use every inch of available space
Getty Images
Mao Zedong believed that China could be industrialised as rapidly as possible, fuelled by ideological motivation and the reorganisation of production. Not only the cities but also rural communities were encouraged to use their surplus labour and resources for heavy industries, especially steel production. Cooperatives were merged into an even larger unit – the commune – a group of villages and outlying hamlets responsible for local agricultural and industrial enterprises, commerce, education and home defence. By the end of 1958, virtually every peasant family was part of a people’s commune.
‘Backyard furnaces’, as they were known, were built to produce steel, but because of a lack of expertise, most of the steel produced was unusable. Agricultural production was expected to increase, and so local leaders falsely reported astronomical growth to advance their careers and avoid being called politically uncommitted. Between 1959 and 1961, the failure of the Great Leap Forward policies, combined with three years of bad weather, led to the 20th century’s greatest famine.
The ‘Second Revolution’
After the death of Mao Zedong in 1976, a gradual rehabilitation of individual initiative and the profit motive spread across the countryside. Farmers were first allowed, then encouraged, to devote themselves to their private plots. Incentives were phased in so that peasants were allowed to sell their surplus production and the yield of their private gardens for whatever the market would bear.
With a green light for cottage industries, rural profits snowballed. The new approach to agriculture soon filled the markets with an abundance of produce and improved the living standards of enterprising farmers.
The success of the new agricultural policy was so striking that the authorities turned to the industrial field. To the dismay of traditional ideologues, Beijing called for a decentralised economy. Factory managers were instructed to adapt to market pressures, although the method of doing so often defied solution. At the same time, private entrepreneurs were allowed to open their own restaurants, shops and service industries. The infallibility of Marx and Lenin was officially questioned: the People’s Daily conceded that the prophets of Communism could not solve all modern-day problems. These trends exploded after 2000, prompting jokes that Communism is just a name in China, no longer an ideological directive. Today, China is the world’s second-largest economy.

The bicycle is still a popular means of transport across much of China
David Shen-Kai/Apa Publications
Life on the Farm
If you have a chance to visit a rural community, don’t miss it. From all you’ve heard about communes, you might imagine barracks for living quarters and a mess hall for dinner. Instead you’ll find a collection of villages, each a cluster of single-storey brick or cement-block houses or, in poorer regions, a scattering of mud huts with thatched roofs. In the main street of each village (which probably isn’t paved) a shop sells everything from cotton rations to pots and pans. Bicycle repairmen hammer and clang, old men play cards and apple-cheeked children peer curiously at foreigners. In richer villages, it’s a different story. You’ll find houses that resemble modern villas. Inside, the amenities can rival those of China’s most prosperous cities.

Visiting a farm

If you are visiting Beijing, you can take city buses from Dongzhimen or Dawanglu to farming villages 10 to 50km (6 to 31 miles) outside the urban sprawl, spend a day there and return by nightfall.
Many of China’s most prosperous farmers are concentrating less on farming than on profitable sideline industries. Hancunhe, one of 11 villages in a commune near Beijing, for example, formed a construction company of local bricklayers in 1978 to build homes and offices for urban Beijing’s rising middle class. Incomes shot up from destitution to millions of US dollars for the village. Since 2000, numerous Chinese villages have shunned farming for theme tourism or redevelopment into bedroom communities for big cities.
Life on many farms, of course, continues to be harsh, with back-breaking work, long hours, low returns and little public health care. Increased mechanisation is beginning to ease the farmers’ burden in more remote areas. With bureaucratic constraints relaxed and grassroots initiative rewarded, peasants with imagination and energy are earning money – sometimes small fortunes – in the free markets of nearby villages and towns, selling surplus produce and the yield of their private plots and whatever they can manufacture. The official policy now smiles on enthusiastic peasants who ‘get rich first’, because unless those in the countryside prosper, those in the cities can hardly rest easy.
Tourist Excursions
For the tourist, seeking to unveil the workings of agriculture and industry adds much to the fascination of China, and tourism authorities routinely arrange excursions to factories and farms. Originally a propaganda exercise, these tours proved a great success. There is no longer any attempt to deny evident shortcomings. Nor do official guides disguise the fact that they are showing off model institutions of which the nation is proud, and not necessarily typical establishments. If your tour group happens to be served a nine-course banquet at a collective farm’s canteen, no one will try to convince you that this is the way ordinary farmers really live.

The Art of Lacquer

Since the feudal Zhou dynasty some 2,500 years ago, works of art in lacquer, a resinous varnish, have been a Chinese speciality. The lacquer and the dyes used are of a particular type, and applying the various layers of this fragile material is a time-consuming exercise. Sometimes, as in the Song style, layers of different colours are applied, each highly polished, then the finished object is engraved to reveal its multiple nuances. In the sumptuous Tang pieces, the shimmering surface is painted or inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
Lacquer is used to decorate boxes, fans, plates, musical instruments, furniture and the pillars of temples and palaces. Examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties, delicately engraved and painted in red, are still copied today.
Many Chinese towns and villages have at least one lacquer factory where tourists can watch the manufacturing process, which is still largely carried out by hand.
Such excursions are among the advantages of package tours to China. You might not know in advance (even up to the day before) what’s on the agenda but the local tourism authorities try hard to organise varied and fulfilling programmes.
Self-guided travel has become increasingly convenient over the past decade. Many Westerners without language skills wing it on their own over railway lines, on bumpy public buses and through flashy new airports. They must occasionally forage for English-speakers, but those are seldom too far off. Hotel clerks and some foreign service desks in railway stations can almost always help.
China’s formal tourist attractions are so varied and dispersed that a first trip can be little more than a preview. Even if time and money permit more than three weeks, you will probably have to choose between a Yangzi River voyage and the Mogao Caves, or between Lijiang and the Silk Road.
Eating and Shopping
Most tourists would agree that the food in China is an attraction in itself. Whether you’re attending an official banquet or trying your luck at a noodle stall, now is the time to sample classic recipes prepared with genuine ingredients in time-honoured manners (for more information, click here ).

Dim sum in a Guangzhou restaurant
Ryan Pyle/Apa Publications
Souvenir-shopping is on almost every visitor’s must-do list. Tourist areas are packed with local-themed stalls and markets. Typically on offer are ceramics, jade, silk, paintings, traditional clothes and a wealth of other mementoes. Some are what they claim to be, others are fake. Just be sure to bargain.
You can also find heaps of bargains in neighbourhood department stores. Shopping malls in larger cities, such as Beijing and Shanghai, sell genuine Western-branded goods, as well as the pirated versions. You will also find familiar names such as Carrefour and Wal-Mart. In smaller towns or remote areas where minorities live you may find local products unique to that area.
Exotic Entertainment
After a long day of sightseeing, you might be tempted to pass on the ‘nightlife’ – don’t. This could be your only chance to see an authentic opera, Chinese acrobats or comics you will laugh at without understanding a single word. Note that people tend to be miserly when it comes to applause, but don’t let that take away from the fun.
Even after you’ve seen China’s treasures, you can still find reasons to keep coming back. Language classes lasting days to years are available at many universities while acupuncture, opera, cooking and martial arts appeal to many. But the most unforgettable experience of China is simply being among the people. Wade into the sea of China’s billion people to see mobs of angrily honking cars, anxious throngs at bus stops, and groups doing slow-motion callisthenics. See a pensioner take his canary out for an airing or stumble upon a busy market stall preparing snacks. The tourist draws attention: there’ll be stares and occasions when you may even feel uncomfortable, but this is all part of the unique experience.
Notes about Spelling
For the past century, the commonest way to spell Chinese words in roman letters was the Wade-Giles method. However, pinyin (literally ‘phonetic sound’) is the modern standard, and is the official system used inside the People’s Republic.
This book uses pinyin . Travellers will encounter both forms of spelling in Asia, so must sometimes make certain linguistic leaps of recognition. The capital was spelt Peking in the Wade-Giles method, and is Beijing in pinyin . The founder of the Communist Party used to be Mao Tse-tung; now he’s Mao Zedong.
The only pinyin transliterations that are not fairly obvious as regards pronunciation are qi , which is pronounced chee , and xi, pronounced shee . Thus, the Ch’ing dynasty is now the Qing dynasty, and the ancient capital Sian is now Xi’an.

A Brief History

Hundreds of thousands of years ago, the prologue to Chinese civilisation was enacted by means of the flicker of a carefully tended fire. ‘Peking Man’ – Homo erectus , a forebear of Homo sapiens – achieved a mastery of fire. We might call it the first Chinese invention. Not that he devised any way of creating fire. Peking Man simply learnt how to capture flame, perhaps from a forest fire, and keep it alight. He thus enjoyed two revolutionary luxuries: light and heat.
Technologically and sociologically, it was a phenomenal breakthrough: with fire, communities could live year-round in one cave, in which cooking and even smelting could be pursued. And so, by 600,000 BC, about 50km (31 miles) southwest of present-day Beijing, the ancestors of mankind were ready to settle down. Several hundred thousand years later, when Marco Polo reached the capital of China, he was astonished by a further development in fire technology. The Chinese, he announced, used black stones dug out of mountains as fuel. Europeans did not yet have a word for ‘coal’, nor had they discovered a use for it.

The secret of silk

From as early as the Neolithic period, the Chinese people made silk from thread produced by the caterpillars they cultivated on the leaves of mulberry trees. It remained a closely guarded Chinese secret until the 6th century AD, when silkworms were smuggled to the West.
The First Dynasties
The confluence of mythology and history in China took place around 4,000 years ago during what is referred to as the Xia (Hsia) dynasty. This was still the Stone Age, but the people are thought to have mastered the art of making silk (see box), and written language was already in use, originally by oracles and then by official scribes – China’s first scholars.
During the second of the quasi-legendary dynasties, the Shang (from about the 16th to 11th centuries BC), the Chinese developed an interest in art. Careful geometric designs as well as dragon and bird motifs adorned bowls and implements. And with the arrival of the Bronze Age, the Chinese created bronze vessels of such beauty and originality that, until recently, Western archaeologists refused to believe they were cast 3,000 years ago.

Chinese writing has an unbroken history of over 4,000 years
David Shen-Kai/Apa Publications
The Shang gave rise to the concept of one Chinese nation under one government. Among the advances of the era were the introduction of astronomical calculations, the use of cowrie shells as a unit of exchange, the construction of palaces and temples, and the refinement of table manners through the introduction of chopsticks.

Shang bronzes

Chinese craftsmen of the Shang dynasty mastered the art of bronze casting. First a wax model was coated with clay and fired. This melted the wax and hardened the clay into a mould, into which molten bronze was poured. More elaborate Shang bronzes were moulded in several sections then assembled.
The Zhou (Chou) clan had long been vassals of the Shang, but eventually grew strong enough to defeat them in warfare in the 11th century. They continued to hold sway until the 5th century BC. They built a capital at Chang’an (now called Xi’an), and the sons of Zhou rulers were dispatched to preside over vassal states in a feudal-like system. Chinese boundaries were expanded, land reform was instituted and towns were built. But perhaps more significantly, the declining years of the Zhou era produced two of China’s most influential thinkers.
In the rest of the world, China’s supreme sage, Kongfuzi (K’ung Fu-tzu), is better known by the romanised name ‘Confucius’. He was born in 551 BC in what is now Shandong province in eastern China. So profound was his influence that 11 Chinese emperors made pilgrimages to the birthplace of the Great Teacher. You, too, can pay your respects at the vast temple raised on the site of his home in the small town of Qufu, and at his tomb in the woods just to the north.

Statue of Confucius in his Beijing temple
The classics of Confucius, while seldom addressing spiritual and metaphysical matters, set standards for social and political conduct that still underlie many of the Chinese ways of doing and perceiving. Confucius laid great stress on the proper and harmonious relationships between ruler and subject, parent and child, teacher and student, the individual and the state. These relationships were deemed to be hierarchical and dictatorial. If the order was disturbed, dire consequences inevitably resulted. The son who disobeyed the father would bring disaster upon himself and his family, just as the emperor who defied the ‘mandate of heaven’ or ignored the good of the empire brought ruin upon the nation.
Over the centuries Confucius has suffered more changes of fortune than probably any other philosopher. Honoured soon after his death as the greatest of scholars, he was later revered as semi-divine; you can still visit temples to Confucius in many cities. But during the Cultural Revolution (1966–76) he was denounced as a counter-revolutionary force. It was only after the death of Chairman Mao (1976) and the opening of China to the outside world under more progressive reformers that Confucius, too, was ‘rehabilitated’.
Unlike Confucius, about whose life many specific details are known, the philosopher Laozi (Lao Tse or Lao-Tzu) is something of an enigma. Estimates of his date of birth vary by well over a century. One legend even says he taught the young Confucius. Laozi is immortalised by his book of thoughts on man, nature and the universe, Daodejing (‘The Way and Its Power’), which became the major text of China’s greatest indigenous religion, Daoism (Taoism). With its emphasis on nature, intuition, the individual, paradox (‘the knowledge which is not knowledge’) and the cosmic flow known as ‘the Way’, Daoism became the religion of artists and philosophers.
After the death of Confucius, the Zhou dynasty entered a time of upheaval known as the ‘Warring States’ period (475–221 BC). Despite political strife, social and economic advances included the introduction of iron, the development of infantry armies, the circulation of currency, the beginning of private land ownership, the expansion of cities and the breakdown of class barriers. This era would give birth to the first emperor to unify China.
The Chinese Empire
The word China is a relatively recent innovation, believed to be derived by foreigners from the name Qin (Ch’in), the first dynasty to unify China after the Warring States period. ‘China’, of course, is a non-Chinese term. Even today, the Chinese still call their nation Zhongguo (literally ‘Middle Kingdom’), referring to its position at the centre of the universe in respect to heaven and earth.

Qinshi Huangdi persecuted Confucian scholars
The Art Archive
Under the first emperor, Qinshi Huangdi (221–206 BC), the empire was organised along strict lines. Land was divided into provinces and prefectures, with power vested in a central government staffed by highly educated bureaucrats. Disapproved books were burnt and dissidents were either executed or exiled. Canals, roads and the Great Wall were built under the auspices of an extensive public works programme staffed mostly by conscripts. Official decrees standardised weights and measures and even the axle dimensions of all wagons (the latter edict kept transport in the same ruts for countless years). You can visit a site of the Qin dynasty today at Xi’an, where the first emperor’s terracotta army was unearthed in 1974 (for more information, click here ).
The Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), which followed the Qin, consolidated the imperialistic order. Civil servants were selected by exams, the centralised government standardised currency, and the ‘Silk Road’ across Central Asia opened up global trade. On the military front, the Han triumphed over the marauding Huns and the Central Asian nomads, and Chinese sovereignty was extended almost to today’s frontiers.
A golden age began, and a university was established in the capital city, Chang’an (now Xi’an). Intellectuals, who had been harried by the Qin, were now encouraged in their creative endeavours, and with the invention of paper, the influence of their writings became more widespread. Trade and industry developed and communication systems improved. Sculpture, ceramics and silk manufacture flourished. And the arrival of Buddhism, which came to China from India via Tibet, was to have an enduring effect on Chinese life and art.
The Three Kingdoms
Like many dynasties before and after, the Han succession ended around AD 220 in a new struggle for power and anarchy. As a result, the nation was split into three competing kingdoms. The era of the Three Kingdoms lasted only about half a century, but it had as a legacy some thrilling tales of derring-do that later inspired various plays and a classic Ming-dynasty novel. And the first mention of tea-drinking in China occurs in the 3rd century, a footnote of fascination for social historians.
Over the next several hundred years a series of dynasties, some led by foreign rulers, held power under almost constant threat from usurpers at home and abroad. Regionalism and class distinction re-emerged, and strong national government was set back by division and conflict. During this period many people moved to the south, and the Yangzi (Yangtze) valley became the leading centre of Chinese culture. As for foreign invaders, they brought new ideas but, as often happened in China, they were assimilated into the more advanced society of the Middle Kingdom.
National unity and strength were renewed under the Sui dynasty (AD 581–618), a brief prelude to the highest achievements of Chinese art. The Sui built a stately new metropolis at Chang’an, near the site of the old Han capital (present-day Xi’an, in Shaanxi province). They also began work on the Grand Canal, which was to link the rice-growing areas of the Yangzi valley with Beijing, an engineering achievement comparable to the building of the Great Wall.
The Glory of the Tang
In the realm of culture, no era of Chinese history has surpassed the Tang (T’ang) dynasty (618–907), during which poetry and art reached a brilliant apex. China’s Imperial Academy of Letters was founded, about 900 years before any such institution was established in Europe. The first-known printed book, a Buddhist scripture, was published in China in 868.

Buddhism in China

Founded in India in the 6th century BC, Buddhism is believed to have reached China about 500 years later. It was brought by merchants who arrived in caravans via the Silk Road, the trade routes that were later travelled by Marco Polo. Monumental artworks in the caves at Dunhuang, created in the 4th and 5th centuries AD, reveal that Buddhism had long been flourishing in western China.

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