Coastal Systems

Simon K. Haslett

Description

Where oceans, land and atmosphere meet, three dynamic forces contribute to the physical and ecological evolution of coastlines. Coasts are responsive systems, dynamic with identifiable inputs and outputs of energy and material. In chapters illustrated and furnished with topical case studies from around the world, this book establishes the importance of coasts within a systems framework - waves, tides, rivers and sea-level change all play critical roles in the evolution of our coasts.

Sujets

• Earth Sciences
• Sciences et techniques
• Climatology
• Meteorology
• Science

Informations

• Publié par: University of Wales Press
• Date de parution: 20 juillet 2016
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781783169016
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 34 Mo

Extrait

Coastal Systems

Coastal Systems THIRD EDITION

Simon K. Haslett

UNIVERSITY OF WALES PRESS 2016

© Simon K. Haslett, 2016

First edition published by Routledge imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group in 2000, as part of the Routledge Introductions to Environment Series; second edition published in 2009.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any material form (including photocopying or storing it in any medium by electronic means and whether or not transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication) without the written permission of the copyright owner. Applications for the copyright owner’s written permission to reproduce any part of this publication should be addressed to the University of Wales Press, 10 Columbus Walk, Brigantine Place, Cardiff CF10 4UP.

www.uwp.co.uk

British Library CIP Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN eISBN

9781783169009 9781783169016

The right of Simon K. Haslett to be identified as author of this work has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 79 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

Designed and typeset by Chris Bell, cbdesign Printed by CPI Antony Rowe, Wiltshire

For Sam, Maya, Elinor and Rhiannon

Contents

List of plates

List of figures

List of tables

List of boxes

Author’s preface to the first edition

Author’s preface to the second edition

Author’s preface to the third edition

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1 Coastal systems: definitions, energy and classification

2 Wavedominated coastal systems

3 Tidallydominated coastal systems

4 Riverdominated coastal systems

5 Sea level and the changing landsea interface

6 Coastal management issues

Conclusion

Glossary

Further reading

Videos by the author

Bibliography

Index

ix

xi

xiv

xv

xvii

xix

xxi

xxiii

1

3

19

71

107

131

157

177

179

195

201

203

219

1.1

1.2 1.3 2.1

2.2

2.3

2.4

2.5

2.6

2.7

2.8

2.9 2.10 2.11

3.1

3.2

3.3 3.4

List of plates

Smallscale rock structure influences the character of a coastline. Along the granite coast of western Brittany (France), two contrasting coasts exist.

The rugged coast of Oregon (USA) is a good example of a leading edge coast.

The trailing edge coast of eastern Australia.

The influence of fetch on waves: (a) long fetch waves on the eastern Atlantic coast and (b) short fetch waves on the northeastern coast of Australia.

The Japan tsunami, 11 March 2011, inundated coastal lowlands to around 5 km inland and, as here at Sukuiso in the Iwate prefecture, damaged and destroyed buildings, and caused significant loss of life.

Types of shore platforms. (a) Type A or sloping shore platform and cliffs. (b) Type B or quasihorizontal shore platform.

Exposed beachrock and fallen trees, indicators of coral cay instability at Green Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia.

A groyne built to trap sand by interrupting longshore drift at Chapel St Leonards along Lincolnshire’s North Sea coast (UK).

Beach cusps formed in a gravel storm beach east of Nash Point, Glamorgan Heritage Coast (Wales, UK).

(a) Glacial till along the southern shores of Galway Bay (Ireland). (b) Gravel beaches along the Queensland coast north of Cairns (Australia). (c) Gravel barrier at Porlock (Somerset, UK).

(a) A gravel barrier overwash fan at Ru Vein in the Baie d’Audierne (Brittany, France), and (b) a breach in the gravel barrier at Porlock (Somerset, UK).

Beach birds of southern California.

Embryo dunes forming in discrete mounds at Barneville (Normandy, France).

Dune scarp formed during winter storms and persisting into the summer at Genets in the Baie de Mont St Michel (Normandy, France).

A salt marsh cliff in the Baie de Mont St Michel (Normandy, France) showing distinct sediment couplets.

A downstream view of a road embankment built across L’Aber Estuary (Brittany, France).

Extensive cliffing of a salt marsh at Northwick Oaze in the Severn Estuary (UK).

A nest of channels in a salt marsh tidal creek at Barneville (Normandy, France).

10 12 14

29

32

38

42

54

55

58

59 61 64

67

83

87 97 98