Le champagne - De la tradition à la science : nouvelle présentation actualisée et enrichie (Coll. Cave & Terroir)

Bruno Duteurtre

Description

Le champagne, de la tradition à la science développe toutes les spécificités liées à ce vin de notoriété mondiale.
• Après un rappel des origines historiques du champagne et une présentation de la région champenoise, les différentes étapes de l’élaboration et du traitement des vins sont exposées : pressurage, fermentation, assemblage, tirage, prise de mousse...
• Les réactions chimiques et physiques à l’origine de la mousse, des bulles et de l’effervescence sont étudiées, ainsi que les différents éléments extérieurs agissant sur cette effervescence : bouteille, bouchon, verre, etc.
• Les qualités organoleptiques du champagne, sa dégustation et les rapports entre consommation et santé sont détaillés.
• Le livre aborde enfin les différents modes d’élaboration des vins mousseux existant de par le monde, et s’achève par une réflexion sur l’évolution du vin de Champagne et les défis à relever.

Cette nouvelle version actualisée s’est enrichie, 6 ans après la parution du livre, des innovations scientifiques ayant permis de faire progresser l’élaboration des vins par la méthode traditionnelle, notamment en ce qui concerne les phénomènes d’effervescence, et des nouvelles technologies appliquées aux bouchons et capsules. Elle présente également le projet « Champagne 2030 » et le devenir du champagne en tant que viticulture d’excellence.

Préface de Philippe Coulon, Directeur Œnologien Moët & Chandon, 1982-2005
Avant-propos
Remerciements
Abréviations

Chapitre 1
Rappels historiques
1. Naissance du vin en Champagne
2. L’apport de Dom Pérignon
3. Le siècle des Lumières
4. Le dix-neuvième siècle
5. Vingtième siècle

Chapitre 2
L’organisation champenoise
1. Le vignoble champenois
2. Schéma d’élaboration du champagne
3. Les intervenants champenois

Chapitre 3
Vignobles et vignes de Champagne
1. Le cycle de la vigne et les travaux viticoles
2. Problèmes rencontrés lors de la culture de la vigne
3. Quelques remarques sur la recherche viticole en Champagne

Chapitre 4
Élaboration des vins de base
1. Les vendanges
2. Le pressurage
3. La vinification

Chapitre 5
Élaboration des champagnes rosés
1. Sélection de la matière première
2. Éraflage
3. Foulage
4. Mode d’élaboration des champagnes rosés

Chapitre 6
Assemblage
1. Dégustation des vins clairs
2. Préparation des assemblages

Chapitre 7
Traitement des vins
1. Collage des vins
2. Stabilisation tartrique
3. Filtration des vins
3.1. Filtration sur kieselguhr
3.2. Filtration sur membrane
4. Centrifugation

Chapitre 8
Tirage des vins
1. Les éléments du tirage
2. Réalisation du tirage

Chapitre 9
Prise de mousse et séjour sur lies
1. Prise de mousse
2. Séjour sur lies et vieillissement des champagnes

Chapitre 10
Remuage
1. Remuage manuel
2. Remuage mécanique
3. Levures agglomérantes
4. Levures incluses
5. Millispark

Chapitre 11
Dégorgement et bouchage
1. Dégorgement
2. Dosage
3. Bouchage
4. Les goûts de bouchon
5. Alternatives au bouchon de liège classique

Chapitre 12
Mousse, bulles et effervescence
1. Service du champagne
2. De la nucléation des bulles à la disparition de la collerette
3. Verre, effervescence et dégustation
4. Mousse, effervescence et procédé d’élaboratio
5. L’effervescence et l’ouï

Chapitre 13
Champagne et consommateur
1. Composition analytique des vins de Champagne
2. Dégustation
3. Champagne et santé

Chapitre 14
Quelques précisions à rappeler
1. Champagne et petite cuillère
2. Volume du flacon et évolution des vins
3. Conservation des bouteilles : debout ou couchées
4. Moisissures dans les caves
5. Lecture d’une étiquette
6. Le champagne au fond des mers

Chapitre 15
Autres méthodes d’élaboration des vins mousseux
1. Principaux modes d’élaboration de vins effervescents
2. Caractéristiques régionales de quelques vins mousseux

Chapitre 16
La Champagne, les défis actuels et du futur
1. L’évolution de ces vingt dernières années
2. Le champagne de demain
3. L’évolution des techniques
4. Champagne et environnement
Glossaire
Index

16 pages de hors-texte en couleurs

Informations

• Publié par: Tec & Doc - Editions Lavoisier
• Date de parution: 04 avril 2016
• Nombre de lectures: 16
• EAN13: 9782743071455
• Langue: Français
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 14 Mo

Extrait

Sciences et techniques

Bruno DUTEURTRE

Le champagne

De la tradition à la science

p r é s l l e e e n v t u a o t i N o n actualisée e t e e n i r i c h

Le champagne

de la radiion à la science

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Le champagne de la radiion à la science

Bruno Dueurre Doceur ingénieur en biochimie appliquée

Préface de Philippe Coulon

editions.lavoisier.fr

Direction éditoriale :Fabienne Roulleaux Édition :Brigitte Peyrot Fabrication :Estelle Perez-Le Du Composition et couverture :Patrick Leleux PAO, Caen

© 2016, Lavoisier, Paris ISBN : 978-2-7430-2145-0

Table des matières

Préface                                                                              XV Avan-propos                                                                        XVII RemerciemensXIX                                                                     AbréviaionsXXI                                                                       

Chapire 1 Rappels hisoriques

1. Naissance du vin en Champagne                            2. L’appor de Dom Pérignon                                   3. Le siècle des Lumières                                        3.1. Créaion des premières maisons de champagne        3.2. Le siècle des Lumières e la science                      4. Le dix-neuvième siècle                                       4.1. Jean-Bapise François e la prise de mousse            4.2. Madame Clicquo e le remuage                        4.3. Paseur e le vin                                         4.4. Adolphe Jacquesson e Jules Guyo                      4.5. Les grands progrès echnologiques e indusriels      4.6. La lue conre le phylloxéra                             5. Vingième siècle                                             5.1. L’acier inoxydable                                       5.2. L’ensemencemen conrôlé                              5.3. Les aures éapes imporanes                          5.4. L’inerprofession champenoise                        

Chapire 2 L’organisaion champenoise

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1. Le vignoble champenois                                                           19 1.1. Délimiaion du vignoble                                                     19 1.2. Caracérisiques du vignoble champenois                                    22 1.3. Cépages e vignobles champenois                                            23 1.4. Pore-greffes                                                                  25 1.5. Pépinières                                                                     25 1.6. Crus champenois                                                             25 1.7. Les clos en Champagne                                                       26 2. Schéma d’élaboraion du champagne                                             27

VI

LE CHAMPAGNE

3. Les inervenans champenois                                                      28 3.1. Les vignerons                                                                 28 3.2. Les coopéraives                                                               29 3.3. Les négocians                                                                30 3.4. Relaions enre le vignoble e le négoce                                       30

Chapire 3 Vignobles e vignes de Champagne 1. Le cycle de la vigne e les ravaux viicoles                                         33 1.1. La aille                                                                       35 1.2. Le débourremen e les ravaux en ver                                       37 1.3. Les prévisions de récole                                                      39 1.4. Les nouvelles echniques culurales : la vigne en lyre                         40 2. Problèmes renconrés lors de la culure de la vigne                               42 2.1. Les problèmes climaiques                                                    42 2.1.1. Les gelées de prinemps                                                 42 2.1.2. Les condiions climaiques à la floraison                               44 2.1.3. La grêle                                                                 44 2.1.4. Les gelées d’hiver                                                       45 2.2. Agressions biologiques                                                       45 2.2.1. Le virus du cour-noué                                                  45 2.2.2. Les maladies du bois                                                    46 2.2.3. Le mildiou                                                              48 2.2.4. L’oïdium                                                                48 2.2.5. Le boryis                                                              49 2.2.6. Aures maladies                                                        50 3. Quelques remarques sur la recherche viicole en Champagne                     51 3.1. La culure «in viro51                                         »                  3.1.1. Microbouurage e producion de plans greffés                       52 3.1.2. Régénéraion de planes à parir de différens issus pour l’amélioraion saniaire e la sélecion variéale                  52 3.2. La biologie moléculaire appliquée à la vigne                                  53 3.3 Simulaion des défenses naurelles de la vigne                              54 3.4. Viiculure raisonnée e viiculure durable                                  55 3.5. Viiculure de précision                                                       57

Chapire 4 Élaboraion des vins de base 1. Les vendanges                                                                      61 1.1. Suivi de la mauraion du raisin                                              62 1.2. Choix des daes des vendanges                                                64 1.3. Cueillee des raisins                                                          65 2. Le pressurage                                                                      65 2.1. Conrôle des raisins avan pressurage                                         65 2.1.1. Conrôle visuel des raisins                                              66 2.1.2. Conrôle analyique des raisins                                        67

TABLE DES MATIèRES

VII

2.2. Les pressoirs champenois                                                     68 2.2.1. Principes du pressurage                                                68 2.2.2. Les différens ypes de pressoirs champenois                          69 2.2.3. L’agrémen des cenres de pressurage                                  70 2.2.4. Disposiions pariculières à chaque vendange                         71 2.3. Déroulemen du pressurage                                                  72 2.3.1. Sulfiage des jus                                                        72 2.3.2. Débourbage                                                            74 2.3.3. Suivi analyique des moûs avan fermenaion                        77 2.3.4. Robos analyiques                                                     78 2.3.5. Bilan analyique des moûs                                            79 2.4. Traiemen pariculier des ailles : l’hyperoxygénaion                       80 3. La vinificaion                                                                     81 3.1. Chapalisaion                                                                81 3.2. Ensemencemen                                                              83 3.2.1. Flore indigène présene dans les moûs de raisins                      83 3.2.2. Sélecion d’une souche de levure                                       84 3.2.3. Culure pure de levure e propagaion                                 86 3.2.4. Réalisaion de l’ensemencemen                                       86 3.2.5. Traiemens fermenaires                                              88 3.3. Fermenaion alcoolique                                                      88 3.3.1. Cuves de fermenaion                                                  88 3.3.2. Oxygénaion des moûs                                                89 3.3.3. Déroulemen de la fermenaion alcoolique                           90 3.3.4. Suivi de la fermenaion alcoolique                                    91 3.3.5. Piloage des fermenaions                                             92 3.4. Fermenaion malolacique                                                   93 3.4.1. Conservaion de pieds de cuve                                         95 3.4.2. Uilisaion de biomasses                                               95 3.4.3. Déroulemen de la fermenaion malolacique                         98 3.4.4. Aures echniques de dégradaion de l’acide malique                  99 3.4.5. Inhibiion de la fermenaion malolacique                            100 3.5. Vinificaion sous bois                                                         101 3.6. Souirage                                                                      102

Chapire 5 Élaboraion des champagnes rosés

1. Sélecion de la maière première                                                  107 1.1. Choix des parcelles                                                            107 1.2. Tri des raisins                                                                 108 2. Éraflage                                                                            109 3. Foulage                                                                            110 4. Mode d’élaboraion des champagnes rosés                                        110 4.1. Les rosés de macéraion                                                       110 4.2. Les rosés d’assemblage à parir de vin rouge                                  111 4.2.1. Vins rouges élaborés par macéraion                                   111 4.2.2. Vins rouges élaborés par hermovinificaion                          112

VIII

LE CHAMPAGNE

Chapire 6 Assemblage

1. Dégusaion des vins clairs                                                        116 1.1. Dégusaion chez le récolan manipulan                                    116 1.2. Dégusaion chez les principaux élaboraeurs                                116 1.3. Principales caracérisiques organolepiques des vins de base champenois                                                           117 1.4. Environnemen de la dégusaion                                            119 1.5. Dégusaion avec les presaaires de pressurage                              120 2. Préparaion des assemblages                                                      120 2.1. Cuvée non millésimée                                                        120 2.2. Cuvée millésimée                                                             121 2.3. Les vins de réserve                                                            121 2.4. Aures paramères inervenan dans la préparaion des assemblages         122 2.5. Pré-assemblage                                                                123 2.6. Réalisaion de l’assemblage                                                   123

Chapire 7 Traiemen des vins

1. Collage des vins                                                                 1.1. Colles proéiques                                                           1.2. Benonie                                                                   1.3. Colles polysaccharidiques                                                 1.4. Aures colles                                                                1.4.1. Tanins                                                               1.4.2. Ferrocyanure de poassium                                         1.4.3. Charbons œnologiques                                              1.4.4. Gels de silice                                                         1.4.5. Polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP)                                   1.4.6. Kaolin                                                               1.4.7. Gomme arabique                                                    2. Sabilisaion arrique                                                          2.1. Sabilisaion au froid                                                       2.1.1. Biarrae de poassium                                             2.1.2. Procédés de sabilisaion vis-à-vis du biarrae de poassium      2.1.3. Tarrae de calcium                                                  2.2. Élecrodialyse                                                              2.3. Acide méaarrique                                                       2.4. Gomme de cellulose ou carboxyméhylcellulose                          2.5. Mannoproéines                                                           3. Filraion des vins                                                              3.1. Filraion sur kieselguhr                                                   3.2. Filraion sur membrane                                                   4. Cenrifugaion                                                                 

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126 126 127 128 128 128 129 129 129 129 129 130 130 130 131 132 132 133 133 134 134 135 136 136 137

TABLE DES MATIèRES

Chapire 8 Tirage des vins 1. Les élémens du irage                                                             1.1. Vin d’assemblage                                                              1.1.1. Composiion analyique des vins d’assemblage                        1.1.2. Sulfiage des vins avan prise de mousse                               1.2. Levures de prise de mousse                                                   1.2.1. Sélecion des souches de levures pour la prise de mousse              1.2.2. Propagaion des levains de irage                                      1.3. Sucre                                                                          1.3.1. Uilisaion des liqueurs                                                 1.3.2. Qualié des sucres                                                      1.4. Adjuvans de remuage                                                        1.5. Acivaeurs de fermenaion                                                  1.6. Boueille                                                                      1.7. Opercule                                                                      1.8. Capsules de irage                                                             1.9. Caves de Champagne                                                          2. Réalisaion du irage                                                              2.1. Réalisaion de la mixion                                                     2.2. Ligne de irage                                                               

Chapire 9 Prise de mousse e séjour sur lies 1. Prise de mousse                                                              1.1. Déroulemen de la prise de mousse                                     1.2. Paramères influençan la prise de mousse                             1.2.1. Levure                                                            1.2.2. Oxygène e gaz carbonique                                       1.2.3. Paramères fixes : alcool e pH                                    1.2.4. SO                                                                2 1.2.5. Tempéraure                                                      1.2.6. Ineracion enre les différens faceurs                          2. Séjour sur lies e vieillissemen des champagnes                            2.1. Auolyse des levures                                                     2.1.1. Condiions physicochimiques de l’auolyse                      2.1.2. Évoluion morphologique des cellules de levure                 2.1.3. Équipemen enzymaique des cellules de levure                 2.2. Poeniel d’oxydoréducion                                             2.3. Évoluion des consiuans des vins lors du séjour sur lies              2.3.1. Composés azoés                                                 2.3.2. Acides nucléiques                                                2.3.3. Polysaccharides                                                  2.3.4. Lipides                                                            2.3.5. Polyphénols                                                      2.3.6. Composés volails                                               

                     

IX

140 140 140 142 142 143 144 146 146 147 147 148 149 151 152 153 155 155 156

     160      161      162      162      164      165      165      166      166      169      170      170      170      174      174      176      176      177      177      177      178      178