Project Gutenberg's A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume 2, by Matthew Flinders This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume 2 Author: Matthew Flinders Release Date: August 6, 2004 [EBook #13121] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS *** This eBook was produced by Col Choat
PRODUCTION NOTES: Notes referred to in the book (*) are shown in square brackets ([]) at the end of the paragraph in which the note is indicated. References to the charts have been retained though the charts are not reproduced in the ebook. The original punctuation and spelling and the use of italics and capital letters to highlight words and phrases have, for the most part, been retained. I think they help maintain the "feel" of the book, which was published nearly 200 years ago. Flinders notes in the preface that "I heard it declared that a man who published a quarto volume without an index ought to be set in the pillory, and being unwilling to incur the full rigour of this sentence, a running title has been affixed to all the pages; on one side is expressed the country or coast, and on the opposite the particular part where the ship is at anchor or which is the immediate subject of examination; this, it is hoped, will answer the main purpose of an index, without swelling the volumes." This treatment is, of course, not possible, where there are no defined pages. However, Flinders' page headings are included at appropriate places where they seem relevant. These, together with the Notes which, in the book, appear in the margin, are represented as line headings with a blank line before and after them.
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acsimile Edition, 1966]
Thischartwaspublishedin1804ayearafterFilnderscircumnavigatedAustraila.Thecontinent's trueshapewasshownfortheifrsttime.ThischartdidNOTappearin AVoyagetoTerraAustrails,pubilshedin1814. A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS VOLUME II TABLE OF CONTENTS. BOOK II. TRANSACTIONS DURING THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF TERRA AUSTRALIS, FROM THE TIME OF LEAVING PORT JACKSON TO THE RETURN TO THAT PORT. CHAPTER.IDepatrurerfomPortJackson,wtihtheLadyNelson. ExaminaitonofvairouspartsoftheEastCoas,tfromthencetoSandyCape. Break-seaSpi.t Anchorage in Hervey's Bay, where the Lady Nelson joins after a separation. Someaccountoftheinhabtiants. Vairationsofthecompass. RuntoBustardBa.y PotrCurtisdiscovered,andexamined. Some account of the surrounding country. ArrivalinKeppelBay,andexaminaitonofitsbranches, oneofwhichleadsintoPotrCurtis. Some account of the natives, and of the country round Keppel Bay. Astronomicalandnauitcalobservations. CHAPTER.IITheKeppelsIles,andcoasttoCapeManifold. Anewpotrdiscoveredandexamined. Harve'ysIsles. AnewpassageintoShoa-lwaterBay. ViewfromMountWestal.l A boat lost. TheupperpatrsofShoa-lwaterBayexamined. Someaccountofthecountryandinhabtiants. General remarks on the bay. Asrtonomicalandnauticalobservations. CHAPTERII.I DepatrurerfomShoal-waterBay,andanchorageinThirstySound. Magneitcalobservations. BoatexcursiontothenearestNotrhumberlandIslands. Remarks on Thirsty Sound. ObservationsatWestHlli,BroadSound. Anchorage near Upper Head. Expedition to the head of Broad Sound: anotherroundLongsIland. RemarksonBroadSound,andthesurroundingcounrt.y Advantages for a colony. Astronomicalobservaitons,andremarksonthehighitdes. CHAPTER IV. ThePercysIles:anchorageatNo.2. Boat excursions. RemarksonthePercysIles;wtihnauitcalobservations. Coralreefs:coursesamongstthemduringelevendayssearch for a passage through, to sea. Descirptionofareef. AnchorageataneasternCumberlandsIle. The Lady Nelson sent back to Port Jackson. Conitnuaitonofcoralreefs; andcoursesamongstthemduirngthreeotherdays. Cape Gloucester. Anopeningdiscovered,andthereefsquitted. GeneralremarksontheGreatBarire;r withsomeinsrtucitonrelaitvetotheopening. CHAPTER V. PassagefromtheBarrierReefstoTorres'Srta.ti Reefs named Eastern Fields. Pandora'sEnrtancetotheSrta.ti Anchorage at Murray's Islands. Communicaitonwiththeinhabitants. Hafl-waysIland. Noitonsontheformationofcoralislandsingeneral. PirnceofWales'sIslands,withremarksonthem. Wallis'sIles. EnrtanceintotheGulphofCarpentaria. ReivewofthepassagethroughTorres'Strait. CHAPTERV.I ExaminationofthecoastontheeastsideoftheGulphofCarpentaira. Landing at Coen River. Head of the Gulph. Anchorage at Sweers' Island. InterivewwtihIndiansatHorse-shoeIsland. Invesitgato'rsRoad. The ship found to be in a state of decay. General remarks on the islands at the Head of the Gulph, and their inhabitants. Asrtonomicalandnauitcalobservations. CHAPTERVI.I Departure from Sweers' Island. South side of C. Van Diemen examined. AnchorageatBountfiulIsland:tutrleandsharksthere. Land of C. Van Diemen proved to be an island. ExaminationofthemaincoasttoCapeVandeilrn. That cape found to be one of a group of islands. Examinationotfheislandst;heirso,lietc. Monument of the natives. Tracesofformervistiorstotheseparts. Astronomicalandnauitcalobservations. CHAPTERVIII. DeparturerfomSirEdwardPellew'sGroup. Coast from thence westward. Cape Maria found to be an island. Limmen'sBigh.tCoastnorthwardtoCapeBarrow:landingon.ti CircumnavigationofGrooteEyland.t SpecimensofnativeartatChasmsIland. AnchorageinNorth-westBa,yGrooteEylandt; withremarksandnauitcalobservaitons. Blue-mudBa.ySkirmishwtihthenaitves. Cape Shield. MountGirnda.ll CoasttoCaledonBa.y Occurrencesinthatbay,withremarksonthecountryandinhabtiants. Asrtonomicalandnauticalobservaitons. CHAPTER IX. DepatrurefromCaledonBay. Cape Arnhem. MelvlileBay. CapeWlibefrorce,andBromb'yssIles. TheEngilshCompan'ysIslands:meeitngtherewithvesselsrfomMacassar. ArnhemBa.y The Wessel's Islands. FurtherexaminaitonotfheNorthCoastpostponed. ArrivalatCoepangBay,inTimo.r Remarksandasrtonomicalobservations. CHAPTER X. DeparturerfomTimor. SearchmadefotrheTiralRocks. AnchorageinGoosesI-landBa.y Interment of the boatswain, and sickly state of the ship's company. Escapefromtheba,yandpassagethroughBass'Strait. ArrivalatPotrJackson. Losses in men. Survey and condemnation of the ship. Plansforconitnuingthesurvey; butpreparationifnallymadeforreturningtoEngland. StateotfhecolonyatPotrJackson. CHAPTER XI. Ofthewinds,currents,andnaivgaitonalongtheeastcoastofTerraAusrtalis,bothwithoutandwtihinthe rtopic;alsoonthenorthcoast. DirecitonsforsailingfromPortJackson,throughTorres'Strait,towardsIndiaortheCapeofGoodHope. Advantages of this passage over that round New Guinea. BOOK III. OCCURRENCES FROM THE TIME OF QUITTING PORT JACKSON IN 1803, TO ARRIVING IN ENGLAND IN 1810. CHAPTER.IDeparturerfomPortJacksoninthePorpoise, accompanied by the Bridgewater and Cato. The Cato's Bank. Shipwreck of the Porpoise and Cato in the night. Thecrewsgetonasandbank;wheretheyareletfbytheBridgewater. Proivsionssaved. Regulaitonsonthebank. MeasuresadoptedforgeittngbacktoPortJackson. DescirpitonofWreck-ReefBank. Remarks on the loss of M. de La Pérouse. CHAPTER.IIDeparturerfomWreck-ReefBankinaboa.t Boisterousweathe.r The Coast of New South Wales reached, and followed. NativesatPointLook-ou.t Landing near Smoky Cape; and again near Port Hunter. ArirvalatPotrJacksononthethitreenthda.y Return to Wreck Reef with a ship and two schooners. Arrangements at the Bank. Accountofthereef,wtihnauitcalandotherremarks. CHAPTER III. PassageintheCumberlandtoTorres'Srtai.t EasternFieldsandPandora'sEnrtance. Newchannelsamongstthereefs. AnchorageatHal-fwayIsland,andundertheYorksIles. PrinceofWales'sIslandsfutrherexamined. BoobysIle. PassageacrosstheGulphofCarpentaira. AnchorageatWesse'lsIslands. PassagetoCoepangBay,inTimor;andtoMauritius,wheretheleakinessoftheCumbelrandmakesit necessary to stop. AnchorageattheBayeduCap,anddepatrureforPotrLouis. CHAPTER IV. ArrivalatPortLouis(orNorth-West)inMaurtiius. InterivewwiththeFrenchgoverno.r Seizure of the Cumberland, with the charts and journals of the Invesitgato'rsvoyage;andimpirsonmentofthecommanderandpeople. Letterstothegoverno,rwithhisanswe.r Restituitonofsomebooksandcharts. FirendlyactotfheEnglishinterpreter. Proposiitonsmadetothegoverno.r HumaneconductofcaptainBergere.t Relfecitonsonavoyageofdiscovery. RemovaltotheMaisonDespeauxorGardenPirson. CHAPTER V. PrisonersintheMaisonDespeauxorGardenPirson. AppilcaitontoadmiralLinois. Spy-glasses and swords taken. Some papers restored. OpinionsuponthedetenitonotfheCumberland. Letter of captain Baudin. AnEngilshsquadronarrivesoffMaurtiius:tisconsequences. ArirvalofaFrenchofficerwtihdespatches,andobservaitonsthereon. PassagesintheMoniteur,wtihremarks. Mr.Akenilberated. Arrival of cartels from India. AppilcaitonmadebythemarquisWellesle.y DifferenttreatmentofEngilshandFrenchprisoners. PirzesbroughttoMauritiusinsixteenmonths. Departureofallpirsonersofwar. PermissiontoquttiheGardenPrison. Astronomicalobservaitons. CHAPTERV.I Parole given. JourneyintotheinteriorofMauritius.
The governor's country seat. ResidenceattheRefugei,nthatPatrofWililemsPlainscalledVacouas. tIsstiuaitonandclimate,wtihthemountains,rivers,cascades,andivewsneari.t The Mare aux Vacouas and Grand Bassin. StateofcutlivationandproduceofVacouas;tisblackebony,game,andwildrfuits;andrfeedomfromnoixous insects. CHAPTERVI.I OccupaitonsatVacouas. Hosptiatilyoftheinhabtiants. LettersrfomEngland. RefusaltobesenttoFrancerepeated. Accountoftwohurircanes,ofasubterraneousstreamandcircularpi.t Habitation of La Pérouse. LetterstotheFrenchmarineministe,rNaitonaIlnsttiute,etc. LettersrfomSirEdwardPellew. CavernsinthePlainsofS.tPiérre. Visit to Port Louis. Narrative transmitted to England. LettetrocaptainBergeretonhisdepatrureforFrance. CHAPTER VIII. Effectsofrepeateddisappointmentonthemind. Arirvalofacartel,andoflettersrfomIndia. LetteroftheFrenchmairneminister. Restitution of papers. Appilcaitonsforlibertyevasivelyanswered. Attemptedseizureofpirvateletters. Memoriatlotheminister. EncroachmentsmadeatPairsontheInvestigator'sdiscoveires. ExpectedattackonMauritiusproducesanabridgmentofLibetry. Sirtctblockade. ArirvalofanothercatrelrfomIndia. StateofthepublicfinancesinMaurtiius. FrenchcatrelsalisfortheCapeofGoodHope. CHAPTER IX. Aprospectoflibetr,ywhichisofficiallyconifrmed. OccurrencesduringelevenweeksresidenceinthetownofPortLouisandonboardtheHariretcatre.l Paroleandcertfiicates. DeparturerfomPortLouis,andembarkaitonintheOtter. Eulogium on the inhabitants of Mauritius. Review of the conduct of general De Caen. Passage to the Cape of Good Hope, and after seven weeks stay, from thence to England. Conclusion. APPENDIX. No. I. AccountoftheobservaitonsbywhichthetidusengLoontheeastandoflpcaseerTAratrusisalronchttsaofos have been settled. No..II Ontheerrorsofthecompassairsingrfomattractionswtihintheship,andothersfromthemagneitsmofland; wtihprecauitonsforobivaitngtheireffectsinmarinesurveiyng. No. .III GeneralRemarks,geographicalandsystematical,ontheBotanyofTerraAusrtails.ByROBERTBROWN,F. R. S.cAda.ciSg.ReerBt.enoC.nilopserr.NATURALIST TO THE VOYAGE. A LIST OF THE PLATES, WITH DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. INVOLUMEI.I ViewofPotrBowen,frombehindtheWateirngGull.y ViewofMurra'yssIlands,withthenativesofferingtobatrer. ViewinSirEdwardPellew'sGroup--GulphofCarpentaira. ViewofMalayRoadrf,omPobassoo'ssIland. ViewofWreck-ReefBank,takenatlowwate.r IN THE ATLAS. Plate. .IGeneralChartofTERRAAUSTRALISandtheneighbouringlands,fromlatitude7°to44½°south,and longtiude102°to165°eas.t II.PaitrcularchatroftheSouthCoast,rfomCapeLeeuwintotheArchipelagooftheRecherche. II.IDittorfomtheArchipelagooftheRecherchetopasttheheadotfhegreatAustrailanBight. IV.DittorfomtheheadofthegreatAusrtailanBighttopastEncounterBa.y V.DtitofromnearEncounterBaytoCapeOtwayatthewestentranceofBass'Srtai.t VI.DtitofromCapeOtwa,ypastCapeHowe,toBarmouthCreek. VII.PaitrcularchartofVanDiemen'sLand. (DetairflomPlateVI.I) VIII.PatricularchatroftheEastCoas,trfomBarmouthCreektopastCapeHawke. IX.DtitofromnearCapeHawketopastGlass-houseBay. X. Ditto from Glass-house Bay to Broad Sound. X.IDttiorfomBroadSoundtoCapeGrafton. XII.DtitofromCapeGraftontotheIsleofDirection. XII.IParticularchatroftheEastCoastrfomthe.IofDirecitontoCapeYork,andoftheNotrhCoastfrom thencetoPeraHead;includingTorresStratiandpartsofNewGuinea. XIV.AparticularchatroftheNotrhCoas,trfomTorres'StraittoPointDaleandtheWessel'ssIlandsi,ncluding thewholeoftheGulphofCarpentaira. XV.Thenorth-westsideotfheGulphofCarpentaria,onalargescale. XVI.ParticularchartofTimorandsomeneighbouirngislands. XVII.Foutreenviewsofheadlands,etc.onthesouthcoastofTerraAustrails. XVII.IThirteenviewsontheeastandnotrhcoasts,andoneofSamowStrai.t (DetailrfomPlateXVIII.) AND TenplatesofselectedplantsrfomdifferentpartsofTerraAustralis. (DetailrfomPlate10). BOOK II. TRANSACTIONS DURING THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF TERRAAUSTRALIS, FROM THE TIME OF LEAVING PORT JACKSON TO THE RETURN TO THAT PORT. CHAPTER I. DepatrurerfomPortJackson,wtihtheLadyNelson. ExaminaitonofvariouspartsoftheEastCoast,fromthencetoSandyCape. Break-seaSp.ti AnchorageinHervey'sBa,ywheretheLadyNelsonjoinsatferaseparaiton. Someaccountoftheinhabtiants. Vairaitonsotfhecompass. RuntoBustardBa.y PotrCuritsdiscovered,andexamined. Someaccountofthesurroundingcounrt.y ArirvalinKeppelBa,yandexaminaitonofitsbranches, oneofwhichleadsintoPortCutris. Someaccountofthenatives,andofthecounrtyroundKeppelBay. Astronomicalandnauitcalobservations. [EASTCOAS.TTOWARDSHERVEY'SBA.Y] THURSDAY 22 JULY 1802 LieutenantJohnMurray,commanderotfhebrigLadyNelson,haivngreceivedorderstoputhimseflundermy command,Igavehimasmallcodeofsignals,anddirectedhimi,ncaseofseparaiton,torepairtoHervey's Bay; which he was to enter by a passage said to have been found by the south-sea whalers, between Sandy CapeandBreak-seaSpiI.tnthemorningofJuly22,wesaliedoutofPotrJacksontogethe;randthebreeze beingfairandfreshr,anrapidlytothenorthward,keepingataltiltedistancerfomthecoast.(Atlas,PlateVIII). At eleven o'clock, the south head of Broken Bay bore W. by N. three leagues; and Mr. Westall then made a sketchoftheenrtance,wtihthatoftheHawkesburyRiver,whichfallsintoti(Atlas,PlateXVIII,View2).The colonistshavecalledthisplaceBrokenBay,butitisnotwhatwassonamedbycaptainCookf;orhesaysti ilesinlatitude33°42'(HawkesworthII.I103),whereasthesouthernmostpointofentranceisnotfutrherthan 33°34'south.Thereis,incaptainCook'slaittude,averysmallopening,andthehillsbehindtianswertohis descripitonof"somebrokenlandthatseemedtoformabay,"whenseenatfourleagues,thedistancehe wasoff;butinreality,thereisnothingmorethanashallowlagooninthatplace.Inconsequenceofthis dfiferenceinposition,CapeThree-pointshasbeensoughtthreeorfourleaguestothenorthofBrokenBay; whereasiitsthenorthheadoftheenrtanceintothebayitselfwhichwassonamed,anditcorrespondsboth instiuaitonandappearance. Atnoon,thesouth-easternbluffofCapeThree-pointsboreS.64°W.,sevenoreightmlies,andwasfoundto liein33°32½'southand151°23½'east.Insteeirngnotrhwardalongthecoas,tatrfomsixtotwomlies distance,wepassedtworockyisletslyingunderthehighshore;andatsunset,CoalsIland,intheenrtanceof PortHunte,rboreN.9°W,.fiveorsixmlies.Thispotrwasdiscoveredin1797bythelatecaptainJohn Shotrland,andilesin32°56'south,longitude151°43'eas.t WepassedPotrStephensaltiltebeforemidnight;andthebreezebeingrfeshatW.byS,.theLadyNelson was left astern, and we lay to for an hour next morning [FRIDAY 23 JULY 1802], to wait her coming up. The landwasthenscarcelyvisible,butanotrhcoursebroughtusinwiththeThreeBrothers(AltasPlateIX.;)and atfourintheafternoon,theyborerfomS.56°to65°W.,thenearestlandbeingalow,butsteeppoint,distant fourorifvemilesinthefirstdireciton.TheThreeBrothersilerfomonetoifvemliesbehindtheshore,atthe easternextremtiyofarangeofhighland,comingoutoftheinteirorcountry.Thenorthernmosthillisthe broadest,mostelevated,andnearesttothewaterside;andbeingivsibleiftfymliesfromaship'sdeck,isan excellentlandmarkforvesselspassingalongthecoast:tislaittudeis31°43'south,andlongitude152°45' east. TothenorthwardoftheThreeBrothersthereisfourleaguesoflow.andmostlysandyshore;andatferpassing ti,wecameupwithaprojeciton,whosetopiscomposedofsmall,irregular-shapedhummocks,the notrhernmostofthembeingarockylumpofasugar-loafform;futrheron,thelandfallsbackintoashallow bight,wtihrocksinitstandingabovewate.rWhenabreastoftheprojection,whichwascalledTacking Point, thenightwasclosingin,andwestoodoffshore,intendingtomakethesamepartnextmorning;forsomeof this coast had been passed in the dark by captain Cook, and might therefore contain openings. SATURDAY 24 JULY 1802 Atdaybreakofthe24th,TackingPointwasdistantthreemiles,andthebreezerfeshatS.W.byW.withfine weathe.rOurlittleconsortbeingoutofsight,westoodanhourtothesouthward;andnotseeingherinthat direciton,boreawayalongthecoastunlitnoon,whenourstiuaitonwasasunder: Latitude observed 30° 58¼' Longitude by time-keepers 153 6½ Northern Brother, dist. 48 miles, bore S. 23 W. Smoky Cape, distant 3 or 4 miles, N. 41° to 30 W. Northern extreme of the land, N. 5 W. ThecoastrfomTackingPointtoSmokyCapeisgenerallylowandsandy;butitsunfiormityisbrokenat intervalsbyrockypoints,whichifrstappearilkeislands.Behindthemthelandislow,butquicklyirsestohills ofamoderateheight;andthesebeingwellcoveredwtihwood,thecounrtyhadapleasantappearance. SmokyCapewasfoundtoanswetrhedescirpitongivenotifbycaptainCook;tiscenrteilesin30°55'south, and153°4'east.Thethreehummocksupontistandonsomanyprojectingpatrs;andathaflamlierfomthe southernmostiletworocks,andathirdtwomliesfurthersouth,whichwerenotbeforenoitced.Onthenorth sideofSmokyCape,thecoastfallsbackfourorifvemilestothewestward,formingabightinthelowland, wheretheremayprobablybeashallowinle;ttiatferwardsresumedanortherndireciton,andconsistedas before of sandy beaches and stony points. Ourconsortwasnotyetinsight;butwekeptonunlitifveintheevening,whenthenearestlandwastwomlies off,andthenotrhernhummockonSmokyCapeboreS.4°W.nineleagues.Ihadbeforeseenthecoast furthernotrhward,asfaras29°20';andhavingthereforenoinducementtoloseanight'srunforits examination,westeeredonward,passingwithoutsideoftheSoiltaryIsles.Atthreeinthemorning[SUNDAY 25JULY1802],hovetounitlday-ilght;andateighto'clockmadethesouthheadofabaydiscoveredinthe Nofrolk(Inrtod.VolI,"Inlatitude29°43',wediscoveredasmallopeninglikearive,rwtihanisletliynginthe enrtance;andatsunse,tenteredalarger,towhichIgavethenameofSHOALBAY,anappellaitonwhichitbut too well merited."), and namedShoal BaynigifdnofrkrslacellpsmathisdekaepasithfmaeO.one hummockonthelowland,thirteenmilesdistan;tandtiwasnowsetoverthesouthheadofthebayatS.20° W.Insteeringnotrhwardclosealongthecoas,twepassedtwosmallreefs,andthewatershoaledto10 fathoms;theyiletwomliesofftheland,andtheredidnotseemtobeanysafepassagewithinthem.Our latitudeatnoonwas29°4',andlongtiudebyitmekeepers153°31';theshorewasthreemliesoffbutunitlwe cameupwithCapeByronaftiveintheevening,therewasnoprojectionwotrhyofbeingpatricularlynoticed. FromShoalBaytoCapeByronisffitymlies,wherethecoas,twiththeexceptionoftwoorthreerockyheads, ismosltylowandsandy;andthesoundings,atfromtwotofourmilesoff,varybetween10and32fathoms,on asandybottom.Afewmilesbackthelandrisestohllisofmoderateelevation,whichwerepoolrycovered withwoodinthesouthernpart,buttowardsthecapehadamoreferitleappearance. CapeByronisasmallsteephead,projecitngabouttwomilesfromthelowland,andincomingalongthe coastmakeslikeanisland;itslaittudeis28°38,'andlongtiude153°37',or7'eastofthesituaitonassigned toitbycaptainCook.Therearethreerocksontisnotrhside;andinthedirecitonofN.57°W.,eightornine leaguesrfomi,tisthepeakedtopofamassofmountains,namedbyitsdiscovererMount Warning; whose elevation is about 3300 feet, and exceeds that of Mount Dromedary, or any other land I have seen upon this EastCoast.ToMr.Westal'lssketchofthisremarkablepeak(Altas,PlateXVIII.View3.)timaybeaddedt,hat thesurroundinghlliswerewellcoveredwithwood,whosefoliageannouncedasoilmorefeitrlethanusualso near the sea side. ThesunwasnearsettingatthetimeCapeByronborewest,threeorfourmlies;andthecoastfromthenceto PointLook-outhaivngbeenseenbycaptainCook,westeeredoffinordetroavoidfaillnginwiththereefsof Point Danger in the night. At eleven, hauled more in for the land; and at eight next day [MONDAY 26 JULY 1802,]MountWarningwassetatS.25°W.,twentyleagues.OncominginwtihPointLook-ou,tItook observationsforthelatitudeandlongtiude,whichifxediitn27°27'south,and153°31'east.Thelaittudeis thesameasithadbeenmadeintheNofrolk,I(nrtod.Vol.)I,butis19'south,and3'westotfhestiuaitongiven incaptainCook'schar.tThebearingsofthelandatnoonwere, Point Look-out, distant 3 leagues, S. 9° W. Moreton entrance to Glass-house Bay, S. 55 W. Cape Moreton, distant six leagues, N. 18 W. Asrtangevesselseentothesouthward,hadinducedmetocarrylittlesailallthemorning;tiwasnow perceivednottobetheLadyNelson,butprobablyoneofthetwowhalersknowntobeifshingoffthecoas;t we therefore made sail for Cape Moreton, and came up with it at four o'clock. I was much surprised to see a small,butdangerousreefliyngbetweenfourandfivemilesoffthiscapetothenorth-east,whichhadnotbeen noitcedintheNorfolk;inenteirngGlass-houseBayIhadthenhauledcloseroundCapeMoretonatduskin theevening,andincomingouthadpassedtoofarwestwardtoobserve.tiThelongitudeofCapeMoreton wasnowifxedbythetimekeepersat153°26½'east,dfifeirngonly1½'fromthelunarobservationsbefore takenintheNorfolk;whentislaittudehadbeensettledat27°0½'south. (Altas,PlateX). TUESDAY 27 JULY 1802 Afterpassingthedangerousree,fwesteerednotrhwardunitlthreeinthemorning;andthenhovetountli dayilgh,tforthepurposeofexaminingthelandaboutDouble-islandPointandWideBa,ywhichdidnot appeartohavebeenwelldisitnguishedbycaptainCook.Atseveno'clockthepointboreN.2°W.,six leagues,andtheshoreabreas,tabeachwithsandyhlilsbehind,tiwasdistantsixmiles.BetweentheS.63. W.andalowbluffheadbeairngS.32°W,.wasabightinthecoastwherethesandhillsseemedtoterminate; forthebacklandfutrhersouthwashighandrockywtihsmallpeaksonthetop,similartotheirdgebehindthe GlassHouses,ofwhichitisprobablyaconitnuaiton. AthaflpastninewehauledcloseroundDouble-islandPoint,withinarockliyngbetweenoneandtwomliesto theN.N.E.,having7fathomsfortheleastwater.ThepointansweredcaptainCook'sdescirption:itisa steephead,attheexrtemtiyofaneckoflandwhichrunsouttwomliesfromthemain,andliesin25°56' south,and153°13'east.Onthenorthsideofthepointthecoastfallsbacktothewestward,andpresentsa steepshoreofwhtiesand;butincurvingroundWideBaythesandylandbecomesverylow,andasmall openingwasseenini,tleadingtoapieceofwaterlikealagoon;buttheshoalswhichileofftheenrtance renderitdfificultofaccess,ifindeedtherebeapassageforanythinglargerthanboats.HadtheLadyNelson beenwithme,Ishouldhaveattemptedtogetherintothelagoon,haivngpreviouslyentertainedaconjecture thattheheadofHerve'ysBaymightcommunicatewtihWideBay;buttheapprehensionthatlieutenantMurray would arrive at the first rendezvous, and proceed to the next before we could join him, deterred me from attempitngitwiththeInvestigatororwtihboats. UponthenotrhsideoftheopeningtherewasanumberofIndians,iftfyasreported,lookingattheship,and nearDouble-islandPointtenothershadbeenseeni,mpliyngamorenumerouspopulationthanisusuatlothe southward.Iinferredrfomhence,thatthepieceofwaterattheheadofWideBaywasextensiveandshallow; foirnsuchplacesthenativesdrawmuchsubsistencerfomtheifshwhichthereabound,andaremoreeasily caughtthanindeepwater.Sofarascouldbeseenfromthemastheadatthreeorfourmilesoff,thewater extendedaboutfivemileswestward,tothefeetofsomehillscoveredwtihsmallwood.Itsextentnorthand southcouldnotbedistinguished,andtiseemedprobablethatone,andperhapstwosrteamsfallintoti;for thereweremanylargemedusaslfoaitngattheentrance,suchasareusuallyfoundneatrhemouthsofrivers in this country. WepassedtheshoalsofWideBayinrfom12to5fathomswate;randsteerednotrhwardatthedistanceof six,andfromthattotwomliesofftheshore,untlidark.CaptainCookdescirbesthispartofthecoastas moderatelyhighandverybarren;therebeinggreatpatchesofmoveablesandmanyacresinextentt,hrough whichappearedinsomeplacesthegreentopsotfreeshalfburied,andinothersthenakedtrunksofsuchas thesandhaddestroyed.WesaliedsomemilesnearertoitthantheEndeavourhaddone,andsawextensive, barepatchesinmanyparts;butnothingtoindicatethesandsbeingmoveable;andingenera,ltherewere shrubs,bushes,andsomerteesscatteredoverthehillsinfrontofthesea.Nothinghowevercanwellbe imaginedmorebarrenthanthispeninsula;butthesmokeswhicharoserfommanypatrs,corroboratedthe remarkmadeuponthepopulaitonaboutWideBay;andbespokethatrfeshwaterwasnotscarceinthis sandycountr.y Our course at night was directed by the fires on the shore, and the wind being moderate from the south-westward,tiwascontinuedunitlteno'clock;atferwhichwestoodoffandontilldayilght[WEDNESDAY28 JULY1802,]andthenhadIndianHeadbearingS.54°W.onemileandahafl.Thisheadwassonamedby captainCook,fromthegreatnumberofIndiansassembledtherein1770.M.rWestall'ssketchofit(Atlas, PlateXVIII,View4).,takenaswesteeredclosealongtheshoreforSandyCape,willshowthatthesame stertiliyprevaliedhereasinthesouthernpatrofthepeninsula;andticontinuedtothenorthernexrtemti.y At eleven o'clock we reached Sandy Cape, and the master was sent ahead to sound in a small passage throughBreak-seaSpit.Theshipfollowedundereasysai,luntliwegotinto3fathoms;andthemasternot makingthesignalforanydeeperwater,Itackedandcalledtheboatonboard.Thechannelappearedtogo qutiethroughtheSp,tiintoHervey'sBay;butastherewere,inmanypatrs,notmorethan2fathomsi,tcanbe passedonlybysmallvessels.Atnoon, Sandy Cape, distant a miles, bore S. 64° to 80° W. Indian Head, distant 7 leagues, S. 12 E. OurobservationsfixedSandyCapein24°42'south,and153'°16'east,being3'north,and7'eastofthe posiitonassignedtoitbycaptainCook. [EASTCOAST.HERVEY'SBA.Y] Atoneo'clockwesteerednotrhward,closetotheedgeofBreak-seaSpit,searchingforapassagethroughtiintoHerve'ysBa.yThereweremanysmallwindingchannelsamongstthebreakers,andalargerbeing perceivedatthree,theboatwassenttomakeanexaminaiton;inthemeanitme,thewindhavingshiftedto notrh-westandbecomeveryilgh,twedroppedthestreamanchortwomilesfromtheSpiti,n11fathoms,fine greysand.Thechannelwheretheboatwassounding,andoutofwhichaitdecameofmorethanonemilean hour,boreW.byN.½N,.andSandyCapeS.24°to41°W.,aboutthreeleagues. Soonatfersunsetthemasterreturned,andrepotredthechanneltobenearlyamlieandahalfwide,andthat tiwentquitethroughtothebay;butitdidnotgenerallycontainmorethanfourteenfeetwater,andwas thereforeimpassablefortheInvesitgator.Thebottomofthis,andoftheformersmallchanne,lasalsothe shoalerbanksoftheSpi,twereofcoral,mixedwithcoralsand. THURSDAY 29 JULY 1802 Atthreeinthemorning,onabreezespringingupatS.W.byS.,wesrtetchedsouth-eastward;andavessel havingbeenobservedovernightoffIndianHead,thistackwasprolongeditllseveno'clock;whenseeing nothingofhe,rwestoodbackfortheSpi,tandcoastedclosealongtiseastsideasbefore,inrfom10to5 fathomswater.AtfortyminutesafternoonwepassedoverthetalioftheSpit,inlatitude24°24';thewater thendeepeningsuddenlyrfom6and7,to22fathoms,andthewhtiepatchesonSandyCapebeairngS.8° E.InstandingN.W.byW.wecrossedabankin11fathoms,andontacking,passedanotherpartoftiwtih only5;thewateruponitwasnotdiscoloured,norhaditbeenobservedetiherbycaptainCook,orbymein theNorfolk:tiilesabout6milesW.N.Wrf.omtheendofBreak-seaSp.ti TheifrstrendezvousappointedforileutenantMurra,ywastheanchoragenearSandyCape;butthewind beingunfavourable,wedidnotreachtitlilfouronthefollowingafternoon[FRIDAY30JULY1802];atwhich timetheanchorwasdroppedin7fathoms,sandybottom,withtheouterextremityofthecapebearingS.79° E.,andthenearestpartdistanttwomiles.AvesselwasseenontheoutsideoftheSp,tiwhichprovedtobe theLadyNelson;andthemasterbeingsentwtihaboattoassistherthroughthepassage,sheanchorednear usatsunse,tandlieutenantMurraycameonboard.Theaccounthegaveofhisseparation,andthedelayin aririvngattherendezvous,convincedmebothoftheLadyNelsonbeinganindfiferentvessel,andofthertuth ofanobservationbeforemadeuponthecurrentst:hattheyrunmuchstrongertothesouthwardatthedistance ofsix,andrfomthattotwentyleaguesoffthecoast,thantheydocloseinwtihtheshore.Mr.Murraynotbeing much accustomed to make free with the land, had kept it barely within sight, and had been much retarded. InordertogivethebotanistsanopportunityofexaminingtheproducitonsofSandyCape,Ideterminedto remain here a day; and some natives being seen upon the beach, a boat was sent to commence an acquaintancewtihthem;theyhoweverreitred,andsufferedM.rBrowntobotanisewtihoutdisturbance.Next morning[SATURDAY31July1802]thebriganchoredwithinaquarterofamlieoftheshore,tocoverour landingparites;andthearmedboatsbeingmooredatgrapnels,outofthereachofthenatives,weseparated intothreedivisions.Thenaturalist'spatry,consistingofsixpersons,walkedalongtheshoretowardsthe upperpatrofthebay;Mr.Murrayandhispeoplewenttocutwoodforfue;landthepartywithme,alsoofsix persons,includingmynaitvefirendBongaree, went towards the extremity of Sandy Cape. Several Indians withbranchesofrteesintheirhands,weretherecollected;andwhlisttheyrerteatedthemselves,werewaving toustogoback.Bongareestirppedoffhisclothesandlaidasidehisspea,rasinducementsfotrhemtowati forhim;butifndingtheydidnotunderstandhislanguage,thepoorfellow,inthesimpilctiyofhisheart, addressedtheminbrokenEnglish,hopingtosucceedbetter.Atlengththeysufferedhimtocomeup,andby degreesourwholepatryjoined;andatferreceivingsomepresents,twentyofthemreturnedwtihustothe boats, and were feasted upon the blubber of two porpoises, which had been brought on shore purposely for them.Attwoo'clockthenaturailstsreturned,birngingsomeofthescoopnetsusedbythenativesincatching fish;andwethenquttiedournewrfiends,atferpresentingthemwithhatchetsandothertestimonialsofour satisfaciton. Thesepeoplegoenitrelynaked,andotherwisemuchresembletheinhabitantsofPortJacksoninpersonal appearance;buttheyweremorelfesh,yperhapsfrombeingabletoobtainabettersupplyoffoodwtihthe scoopnets,whicharenotknownonthesouthernpartsofthecoast.Inoitcedinmostofthemahardtumour ontheouterknuckleofthewrist,which,fiweunderstoodthemairgh,twascausedbythestretcherofthe scoopcomingincontactwiththisparitntheactofthrowingthenet.Ournaitvedidnotunderstandawordof their language, nor did they seem to know the use of hiswomerahor throwing stick; for one of them being intivedtoimitateBongaree,wholancedaspearwithitverydexterouslyandtoagreatdistance,he,inthe mostawkwardmanner,threwbothwomerahandspeartogether.Nothingilkeacanoewasseenamongst thesepeople;buttheymusthavesomemeansofpassingoverthewatertoshotrdistances,sinceIfound,in 1799,thatCurlewIslet,neartheheadofthisbay,hadbeenvistied. A species ofpandanus before found at Glass-house and Shoal Bays, grows in abundance upon Sandy Cape;andnotwtihstandingtheextremestelirtiyofthesoli,thesandhillsweremostlycoveredwithbushes, andthevalliescontainedtreesoftheirausacan andeucalyptus. There was fresh water in a pool near the shore,andasashipmayilewithinhalfamlie,bothwoodandwatermightbeprocuredherewithoutgreat dififculty;butIdoubtifthewaterwouldnotaltogethefrailinthedryseason. Atolerablyregularitdesetpasttheship,N.N.E.andS.S.W.,nearlyonemlieanhour;andtiappearedby the shore to be high wateretfarohtsrueighoutabthe moon's passage, and the common rise to be between six and seven feet. NomentionhasbeenmadeofthevariationofthecompasssinceleavingPortJackson,Agradualdiminuiton seemstotakeplacefromTwofoldBay,nearthesouthernexrtemtiyofthiscoast,toSandyCape;aswlil appearrfomthefollowingobservaitons. Lat. 37° 4' Azim., one compass, on shore, 9° 29' E. 33 52 do , do , do , 8 51