Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)

Alice Morse Earle

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• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
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The Project Gutenberg eBook, Two
Centuries of Costume in America, Vol. 1
(1620-1820),
by Alice Morse Earle
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Title: Two Centuries of Costume in America, Vol. 1 (1620-1820)
Author: Alice Morse Earle
Last Updated: March 9, 2009
Release Date: November 17, 2003 [eBook #10115]
Language: English
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***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO CENTURIES OF COSTUME IN AMERICA,
VOL. 1 (1620-1820)***
E-text prepared by Charles Aldarondo, Keren Vergon, Susan
Skinner,
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
TWO CENTURIES OF COSTUME IN AMERICA
MDCXX-MDCCCXX
ALICE MORSE EARLE
AUTHOR OF "SUN-DIALS AND ROSES OF YESTERDAY"
"OLD TIME GARDENS," ETC.
VOLUME I
Nineteen Hundred and ThreeMadam Padishal and Child.
To George P. Brett
"An honest Stationer (or Publisher) is he, that exercizeth his Mystery
(whether it be in printing, bynding or selling of Bookes) with more respect
to the glory of God & the publike aduantage than to his owne Commodity
& is both an ornament & a profitable member in a ciuill Commonwealth....
If he be a Printer he makes conscience to exemplefy his Coppy fayrely &
truly. If he be a Booke-bynder, he is no meere Bookeseller (that is) one
who selleth meerely ynck & paper bundled up together for his owne
aduantage only: but he is a Chapman of Arts, of wisdome, & of much
experience for a little money.... The reputation of Schollers is as deare unto
him as his owne: For, he acknowledgeth that from them his Mystery had
both begining and means of continuance. He heartely loues & seekes the
Prosperity of his owne Corporation: Yet he would not iniure the
Uniuersityes to advantage it. In a word, he is such a man that the State
ought to cherish him; Schollers to loue him; good Customers to frequent
his shopp; and the whole Company of Stationers to pray for him."
--GEORGE WITHER, 1625.
CONTENTS
VOL. I
I. APPAREL OF THE PURITAN AND PILGRIM FATHERS
II. DRESS OF THE NEW ENGLAND MOTHERSIII. ATTIRE OF VIRGINIA DAMES AND THEIR NEIGHBORS
IV. A VAIN PURITAN GRANDMOTHER
V. THE EVOLUTION OF COATS AND WAISTCOATS
VI. RUFFS AND BANDS
VII. CAPS AND BEAVERS IN COLONIAL DAYS
VIII. THE VENERABLE HOOD
IX. CLOAKS AND THEIR COUSINS
X. THE DRESS OF OLD-TIME CHILDREN
XI. PERUKES AND PERIWIGS
XII. THE BEARD
XIII. PATTENS, CLOGS, AND GOLOE-SHOES
XIV. BATTS AND BROAGS, BOOTS AND SHOES
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOLUME I
MADAM PADISHAL AND CHILD
Frontispiece
This fine presentation of the dress of a gentlewoman and infant child,
in the middle of the seventeenth century, hung in old Plymouth homes
in the Thomas and Stevenson families till it came by inheritance to the
present owner, Mrs. Greely Stevenson Curtis of Boston, Mass. The artist
is unknown.
JOHN ENDICOTT
Born in Dorchester, Eng., 1589. Died in Boston, Mass., 1665. He
emigrated to America in 1628; became governor of the colony in 1644,
and was major-general of the colonial troops. He hated Indians, the
Church of Rome, and Quakers. He wears a velvet skull-cap, and a
finger-ring, which is somewhat unusual; a square band; a richly fringed
and embroidered glove; and a "stiletto" beard. This portrait is in the
Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
EDWARD WINSLOW
Born in England, 1595; died at sea, 1655. One of the founders of the
Plymouth colony in 1620; and governor of that colony in 1633, 1636,
1644. This portrait is dated 1651. It is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.
JOHN WINTHROP
Born in England, 1588; died in Boston, 1649. Educated at Trinity
College, Cambridge; admitted to the Inner Temple, 1628. Made
governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony in 1629. Arrived in Salem,
1630. His portrait by Van Dyck and a fine miniature exist. The latter is
owned by American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass. This picture
is copied from a very rare engraving from the miniature, which is finer
and even more thoughtful in expression than the portrait. Both have the
lace-edged ruff, but the shape of the dress is indistinct.
SIMON BRADSTREET
Born in England, 1603; died in Salem, Mass., 1697. He was governor
of the colony when he was ninety years old. The Labadists, who visited
him, wrote: "He is an old man, quiet and grave; dressed in black silk, but
not sumptuously."SIR RICHARD SALTONSTALL
A mayor of London who came to Salem among the first settlers. The
New England families of his name are all descended from him. He
wears buff-coat and trooping scarf. This portrait was painted by
Rembrandt.
SIR WALTER RALEIGH
Born in Devonshire, Eng., 1552; executed in London, 1618. A
courtier, poet, historian, nobleman, soldier, explorer, and colonizer. He
was the favorite of Elizabeth; the colonizer of Virginia; the hero of the
Armada; the victim of King James. In this portrait he wears a slashed
jerkin; a lace ruff; a broad trooping scarf with great lace shoulder-knot; a
jewelled sword-belt; full, embroidered breeches; lace-edged garters, and
vast shoe-roses, which combine to form a confused dress.
SIR WALTER RALEIGH AND SON
This print was owned by the author for many years, with the written
endorsement by some unknown hand, Martin Frobisher and Son. I am
glad to learn that it is from a painting by Zucchero of Raleigh and his
son, and is owned at Wickham Court, in Kent, Eng., by the descendant
of one of Raleigh's companions in his explorations. The child's dress is
less fantastic than other portraits of English children of the same date.
ROBERT DEVEREUX, EARL OF ESSEX
From an old print. A general of Cromwell's army.
OLIVER CROMWELL DISSOLVING PARLIAMENT
From an old Dutch print.
SIR WILLIAM WALLER
A general in Cromwell's army. Born, 1597; died, 1668. He served in
the Thirty Years' War. This portrait is in the National Portrait Gallery.
LORD FAIRFAX
A general in Cromwell's army. From an old print.
ALDERMAN ABELL AND RICHARD KILVERT
From an old print.
REV. JOHN COTTON, D.D.
Born in Derby, Eng., 1585; died at Boston, Mass., in 1652. A Puritan
clergyman who settled in Boston in 1633. He drew up for the colonists,
at the request of the General Court, an abstract of the laws of Moses
entitled Moses His Judicials, which was of greatest influence in the
formation of the laws of the colony. This portrait is owned by Robert C.
Winthrop, Esq.
REV. COTTON MATHER, D.D.
Born in Boston, Mass., 1683; died in Boston, Mass., 1728. A
clergyman, author, and scholar. His book, Magnalia Christi Americana,
an ecclesiastical history of New England, is of much value, though most
trying. He took an active and now much-abhorred part in the Salem
witchcraft. This portrait is owned by the American Antiquarian Society,
Worcester, Mass.
SLASHED SLEEVES
From portraits temp. Charles I. The first is from a Van Dyck portrait
of the Earl of Stanhope, and has a rich, lace-edged cuff. The second,
with a graceful lawn undersleeve, is from a Van Dyck of Lucius Gary,
Viscount Falkland. The third is from a painting by Mytens of the Duke
of Hamilton. The fourth, by Van Dyck, is from one of Lord Villiers,
Viscount Grandison.
MRS. KATHERINE CLARKBorn, 1602; died, 1671. An English gentlewoman renowned in her
day for her piety and charity.
LADY MARY ARMINE
An English lady of great piety, whose gifts to Christianize the Indians
make her name appear in the early history of Massachusetts. Her black
domino and frontlet are of interest. This portrait was painted about 1650.
THE TUB-PREACHER
An old print of a Quaker meeting. Probably by Marcel Lawson.
VENICE POINT LACE
Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary of Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
REBECCA RAWSON
The daughter of Edward Rawson, Secretary of State. Born in Boston
in 1656; married in 1679 to an adventurer, Thomas Rumsey, who called
himself Sir Thomas Hale. She died at sea, in 1692. This portrait is
owned by New England Historic Genealogical Society.
ELIZABETH PADDY
Born in Plymouth, Mass., in 1641. Daughter of William Paddy; she
married John Wensley of Plymouth. Their daughter Sarah married Dr.
Isaac Winslow. This portrait is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.
MRS. SIMEON STODDARD
A wealthy Boston gentlewoman. This portrait was painted in the latter
half of the seventeenth century. It is owned by the Massachusetts
Historical Society.
ANCIENT BLACK LACE
Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary, Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
VIRAGO-SLEEVE
From a French portrait.
NINON DE L'ENCLOS
Born in Paris, 1615; died in 1705. Her dress has a slashed
viragosleeve and lace whisk.
LADY CATHERINE HOWARD
Grandchild of the Earl of Arundel. Aged thirteen years. Drawn in
1646 by W. Hollar.
COSTUMES OF ENGLISHWOMEN OF SEVENTEENTH
CENTURY
Plates from Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or Several Habits of
Englishwomen, 1640. By Wenceslaus Hollar, an engraver of much note
and much performance; born at Prague, 1607; died in England, 1677.
This book contains twenty-six plates illustrating women's dres