Lands of the Saracen

Bayard Taylor

Description

The Jezreel Valley in present-day Israel is a fertile basin surrounded by mountain ranges that is home to several sites featured in the Bible. In 1852, American poet and travel writer Bayard Taylor undertook an arduous journey across a number of regions in the Middle East and Africa, part of which is recounted in this engrossing volume.

Sujets

• Travel writing

Informations

• Publié par: The Floating Press
• Date de parution: 01 octobre 2015
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781776591794
• Langue: English

Extrait

THE LANDS OF THE SARACEN
PICTURES OF PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR, SICILY, AND SPAIN
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BAYARD TAYLOR
 
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The Lands of the Saracen Pictures of Palestine, Asia Minor, Sicily, and Spain First published in 1854 Epub ISBN 978-1-77659-179-4 Also available: PDF ISBN 978-1-77659-180-0 © 2013 The Floating Press and its licensors. All rights reserved. While every effort has been used to ensure the accuracy and reliability of the information contained in The Floating Press edition of this book, The Floating Press does not assume liability or responsibility for any errors or omissions in this book. The Floating Press does not accept responsibility for loss suffered as a result of reliance upon the accuracy or currency of information contained in this book. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Many suitcases look alike. Visit www.thefloatingpress.com
Contents
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Dedication Preface Chapter I - Life in a Syrian Quarantine Chapter II - The Coast of Palestine Chapter III - From Jaffa to Jerusalem Chapter IV - The Dead Sea and the Jordan River Chapter V - The City of Christ Chapter VI - The Hill-Country of Palestine Chapter VII - The Country of Galilee Chapter VIII - Crossing the Anti-Lebanon Chapter IX - Pictures of Damascus Chapter X - The Visions of Hasheesh Chapter XI - A Dissertation on Bathing and Bodies Chapter XII - Baalbec and Lebanon Chapter XIII - Pipes and Coffee Chapter XIV - Journey to Antioch and Aleppo Chapter XV - Life in Aleppo Chapter XVI - Through the Syrian Gates Chapter XVII - Adana and Tarsus Chapter XVIII - The Pass of Mount Taurus Chapter XIX - The Plains of Karamania Chapter XX - Scenes in Konia Chapter XXI - The Heart of Asia Minor Chapter XXII - The Forests of Phrygia Chapter XXIII - Kiutahya and the Ruins of Œzani Chapter XXIV - The Mysian Olympus Chapter XXV - Brousa and the Sea of Marmora Chapter XXVI - The Night of Predestination Chapter XXVII - The Solemnities of Bairam Chapter XXVIII - The Mosques of Constantinople Chapter XXIX - Farewell to the Orient—Malta Chapter XXX - The Festival of St. Agatha Chapter XXXI - The Eruption of Mount Etna Chapter XXXII - Gibraltar Chapter XXXIII - Cadiz and Seville Chapter XXXIV - Journey in a Spanish Diligence Chapter XXXV - Granada and the Alhambra Chapter XXXVI - The Bridle-Roads of Andalusia Chapter XXXVII - The Mountains of Ronda Endnotes
Dedication
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To Washington Irving,
This book—the chronicle of my travels through lands once occupied by theSaracens—naturally dedicates itself to you, who, more than any otherAmerican author, have revived the traditions, restored the history, andillustrated the character of that brilliant and heroic people. Yourcordial encouragement confirmed me in my design of visiting the East, andmaking myself familiar with Oriental life; and though I bring you now butimperfect returns, I can at least unite with you in admiration of a fieldso rich in romantic interest, and indulge the hope that I may one daypluck from it fruit instead of blossoms. In Spain, I came upon your track,and I should hesitate to exhibit my own gleanings where you haveharvested, were it not for the belief that the rapid sketches I have givenwill but enhance, by the contrast, the charm of your finished picture.
Bayard Taylor.
Preface
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This volume comprises the second portion of a series of travels, of whichthe "Journey to Central Africa," already published, is the first part. Ileft home, intending to spend a winter in Africa, and to return during thefollowing summer; but circumstances afterwards occurred, which prolongedmy wanderings to nearly two years and a half, and led me to visit manyremote and unexplored portions of the globe. To describe this journey in asingle work, would embrace too many incongruous elements, to say nothingof its great length, and as it falls naturally into three parts, orepisodes, of very distinct character, I have judged it best to group myexperiences under three separate heads, merely indicating the links whichconnect them. This work includes my travels in Palestine, Syria, AsiaMinor, Sicily and Spain, and will be followed by a third and concludingvolume, containing my adventures in India, China, the Loo-Choo Islands,and Japan. Although many of the letters, contained in this volume,describe beaten tracks of travel, I have always given my own individualimpressions, and may claim for them the merit of entire sincerity. Thejourney from Aleppo to Constantinople, through the heart of Asia Minor,illustrates regions rarely traversed by tourists, and will, no doubt, benew to most of my readers. My aim, throughout the work, has been to givecorrect pictures of Oriental life and scenery, leaving antiquarianresearch and speculation to abler hands. The scholar, or the man ofscience, may complain with reason that I have neglected valuableopportunities for adding something to the stock of human knowledge: but ifa few of the many thousands, who can only travel by their firesides,should find my pages answer the purpose of a series of cosmoramicviews—should in them behold with a clearer inward eye the hills ofPalestine, the sun-gilded minarets of Damascus, or the lonely pine-forestsof Phrygia—should feel, by turns, something of the inspiration and theindolence of the Orient—I shall have achieved all I designed, and morethan I can justly hope.
New York, October , 1854.
Chapter I - Life in a Syrian Quarantine
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Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout—Landing at Quarantine—The Guardiano—Our Quarters—Our Companions—Famine and Feasting—The Morning—The Holy Man of Timbuctoo—Sunday in Quarantine—Islamism—We are Registered—Love through a Grating—Trumpets—The Mystery Explained—Delights of Quarantine—Oriental vs. American Exaggeration—A Discussion of Politics—Our Release—Beyrout—Preparations for the Pilgrimage.
"The mountains look on Quarantine, And Quarantine looks on the sea."
Quarantine MS.
In Quarantine, Beyrout, Saturday, April 17, 1852.
Everybody has heard of Quarantine, but in our favored country there aremany untravelled persons who do not precisely know what it is, and who nodoubt wonder why it should be such a bugbear to travellers in the Orient.I confess I am still somewhat in the same predicament myself, although Ihave already been twenty-four hours in Quarantine. But, as a peculiarityof the place is, that one can do nothing, however good a will he has, Ipropose to set down my experiences each day, hoping that I and my readersmay obtain some insight into the nature of Quarantine, before the term ofmy probation is over.
I left Alexandria on the afternoon of the 14th inst., in company with Mr.Carter Harrison, a fellow-countryman, who had joined me in Cairo, for thetour through Palestine. We had a head wind, and rough sea, and I remainedin a torpid state during most of the voyage. There was rain the secondnight; but, when the clouds cleared away yesterday morning, we weregladdened by the sight of Lebanon, whose summits glittered with streaks ofsnow. The lower slopes of the mountains were green with fields andforests, and Beyrout, when we ran up to it, seemed buried almost out ofsight, in the foliage of its mulberry groves. The town is built along thenorthern side of a peninsula, which projects about two miles from the mainline of the coast, forming a road for vessels. In half an hour after ourarrival, several large boats came alongside, and we were told to get ourbaggage in order and embark for Quarantine. The time necessary to purify atraveller arriving from Egypt from suspicion of the plague, is five days,but the days of arrival and departure are counted, so that the duranceamounts to but three full days. The captain of the Osiris mustered thepassengers together, and informed them that each one would be obliged topay six piastres for the transportation of himself and his baggage. Twoheavy lighters are now drawn up to the foot of the gangway, but as soon asthe first box tumbles into them, the men tumble out. They attach the craftby cables to two smaller boats, in which they sit, to tow the infectedloads. We are all sent down together, Jews, Turks, and Christians—aconfused pile of men, women, children, and goods. A little boat from thecity, in which there are representatives from the two hotels, hoversaround us, and cards are thrown to us. The zealous agents wish to supplyus immediately with tables, beds, and all other household appliances; butwe decline their help until we arrive at the mysterious spot. At last wefloat off—two lighters full of infected, though respectable, material,towed by oarsmen of most scurvy appearance, but free from every suspicionof taint.
The sea is still rough, the sun is hot, and a fat Jewess becomes sea-sick.An Italian Jew rails at the boatmen ahead, in the Neapolitan patois, forthe distance is long, the Quarantine being on the land-side of Beyrout. Wesee the rows of little yellow houses on the cliff, and with great apparentrisk of being swept upon the breakers, are tugged into a small cove, wherethere is a landing-place. Nobody is there to receive us; the boatmen jumpinto the water and push the lighters against the stone stairs, while weunload our own baggage. A tin cup filled with sea-water is placed beforeus, and we each drop six piastres into it—for money, strange as it mayseem, is infectious. By this time, the guardianos have had notice of ourarrival, and we go up with them to choose our habitations. There areseveral rows of one-story houses overlooking the sea, each containing twoempty rooms, to be had for a hundred piastres; but a square two-storydwelling stands apart from them, and the whole of it may be had for thricethat sum. There are seven Frank prisoners, and we take it for ourselves.But the rooms are bare, the kitchen empty, and we learn the importantfact, that Quarantine is durance vile, without even the bread and water.The guardiano says the agents of the hotel are at the gate, and we canorder from them whatever we want. Certainly; but at their own price, forwe a