Montréal Chic

Sara Danièle Bélanger-Michaud, Katrina Sark

Description

Montréal is à la mode. A fashionable city in its own right, it also boasts fashion schools, an industry packed with local designers and manufacturers and a dynamic scene that exhibits local and international collections. With its vibrant cultural life and affordable cost of living, designers and artists flock from all over to be a part of Montréal’s hip fashion community. MontréalChic is the first book to document this scene and how it connects with the city’s design, film, music and cultural history. Scholars Katrina Sark and Sara Danièle Bélanger-Michaud are intimately acquainted with Montréal and use their firsthand knowledge of the city’s fashion to explore urban culture, music, institutions, scenes and subcultures, along the way uncovering many untold stories of Montréal’s fashion scene.

Introduction

Locating Montreal Chic

 

Chapter 1

A Locational History of Fashion in Montréal

 

Chapter 2

Montréal Symbols

 

Chapter 3

Museum Chic

 

Chapter 4

Music Chic

 

Chapter 5

Film Chic

 

Chapter 6

Montréal’s Fashion Economy

 

Chapter 7

Innovation, Design, and Technology

Sujets

• Arts visuels
• Arts visuels
• ART
• Mode (habillement)
• General
• Design
• Fashion
• General officer

Informations

• Publié par: Intellect Books
• Date de parution: 01 septembre 2016
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781783206186
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 3 Mo

Extrait

First published in the UK in 2016 by
Intellect, The Mill, Parnall Road, Fishponds, Bristol, BS16 3JG, UK
First published in the USA in 2016 by
Intellect, The University of Chicago Press, 1427 E. 60th Street,
Chicago, IL 60637, USA
Copyright © 2016 Intellect Ltd
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the
British Library.
Copy-editor: MPS Technologies
Cover designer: Jane Seymour
Production manager: Jelena Stanovnik
Typesetting: Contentra Technologies
Print ISBN: 978-1-78320-616-2
ePDF ISBN: 978-1-78320-617-9
ePUB ISBN: 978-1-78320-618-6
Printed and bound by Short Run Press, UK
To the women of Montréal
Contents
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction: Locating Montréal Chic
Methodology
A Locational Approach to Fashion
Canadian Fashion Scholarship
Part 1: History
Chapter 1: A Locational History of Fashion in Montréal
Chapter 2: Montréal Symbols
The Montréal Canadians: From the Great Darkness to the Quiet Revolution
Sainte-Flanelle
Expo 67
Expo Legacy
Printemps érable and the Red Square
Spectacle and Performativity
Part 2: Spectacles
Chapter 3: Museum Chic
Musée McCord
Musée du Costume et du Textile du Québec
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal
Chapter 4: Music Chic
Locating Montréal’s Music Scenes
The Contemporary Music Scene and Its Styles
Chapter 5: Film Chic
Locating Fashion in Montréal Films
Xavier Dolan
Les amours imaginaires
Laurence Anyways
Mommy
Dress Code: Colour Block
Part 3: Innovation
Chapter 6: Montréal’s Fashion Economy
Fashion Cities, Fashion Scenes, Fashion Economies, and Fashion Culture
The 2003 Montréal Mode Scandal and Its Aftermath
Montréal Designers: Marie Saint Pierre
Helmer
Denis Gagnon
RAD
Fashion Organizations in Montréal
Fashion Organizations in Vienna
Fashion Organizations in Berlin
City Branding, Creativity, and Fashion
Chapter 7: Innovation, Design, and Technology
Fashion and Technology
Hexagram
XS Labs
Techno-Espace, Collège Lasalle
Vestechpro, Cégep Marie-Victorin
Hexoskin
Conclusion
Bibliography
Filmography
List of Illustrations
We would like to acknowledge the generosity of the copyright holders of the images in this book. If any have not been properly credited, please contact the publishers, who will be happy to rectify future editions.
We would especially like to acknowledge the generosity in providing images for this volume of Montréal photographers Sébastien Roy and Kim Payant, fashion and technology designers Barbara Layne and Joanna Berzowska, designers Denis Gagnon and Rad Hourani, as well as the Archives de la Ville de Montréal and the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec.
Cover
View from Denis Gagnon’s atelier/boutique onto Rue St. Paul in the Old Port, Montréal, June 2015 (photo K. Sark)
Introduction
0.1 Earl Luigi, Exhibit 22, Montréal Fashion Week, February 2012 (photo K. Sark)
0.2 MTL Moments sign atop Mont-Royal Belvedere, October 2015 (photo Christos Tsaganos)
0.3 Melissa Nepton, Montréal Fashion Week, October 2013 (photo K. Sark)
0.4 Montréal Fashion Week, February 2010 (photo K. Sark)
Chapter 1
1.1 “Montréal Chic” printemps, La Patrie , March 1914 (Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec)
1.2 Clothing Factory Maurice Laniel, 7542 Rue St. Hubert, Montréal, 1941 (photo Conrad Poirier, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec) http://www.banq.qc.ca/collections/images/notice.html?id=06MP48S1SS0SSS0D0P6570
1.3 Clothing Factory Maurice Laniel, women workers, Montréal, 1941 (photo Conrad Poirier, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec) http://www.banq.qc.ca/collections/images/notice.html?id=06MP48S1SS0SSS0D0P6571
1.4 Chart: Montréal department stores (compiled by S.D. Bélanger-Michaud)
1.5 Montréal Mode magazine cover, 1904 (with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec)
1.6 Dupuis Frères Christmas (photo Conrad Poirier, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec) http://www.banq.qc.ca/collections/images/notice.html?id=06MP48S1SS0SSS0D0P12908
1.7 Rue Sherbrooke, 1947 (photo Conrad Poirier, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec) http://www.banq.qc.ca/collections/images/notice.html?id=06MP48S1SS0SSS0D0P15144
1.8 Montréal 65 magazine cover, 1965 (with the permission of the Archives de la Ville de Montréal) http://archivesdemontreal.com/2010/05/03/ledition-de-novembre-de-montreal-64-avec-les-canadiens-en-couverture/
1.9 JACOB flagship store, Rue Sainte-Catherine, August 2014 (photo K. Sark)
1.10 JACOB store front, “Chic that rocks” campaign, Victoria, BC, October 2013 (photo B. Sark)
Chapter 2
2.1 Cross on Mont-Royal, July 2014 (photo K. Sark)
2.2 Eaton’s department store on Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, Christmas 1946 (photo Conrad Poirier, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec) http://www.banq.qc.ca/collections/images/notice.html?id=06MP48S1SS0SSS0D0P12907&keyword=grands+magasins&nbResult=&tri=&mosaique=&f_sous_collection_f=&page=2
2.3 Maurice Richard’s hockey sweater, 1960 (photo John Taylor, McCord Museum) http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/MP-1999.5.5032.4
2.4 Habs fans wearing CH jerseys after a victory in the playoffs on Rue Sainte-Catherine, 2010 (photo K. Sark)
2.5 Habitat 67, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
2.6 Biosphere, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
2.7 Expo 67 hostess uniform, Canadian Pavilion, 1967 (photo McCord Museum) http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M967.85.3.1-2
2.8 Montréalité storefront on Boulevard St.-Laurent, October 2014 (photo S. Ingram)
2.9 Montréal Jazz Fest at Place des Arts, June 2010 (photo K. Sark)
2.10 Alexander Calder’s sculpture L’homme , on Île Sainte-Hélène, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
2.11 Olympic Stadium, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
2.12 Expo 67 licence plates, Finnegan flea market in Hudson, Québec, July 2014 (photo K. Sark)
2.13 Angel statue at Mont-Royal during student protests, with red duct tape taped over their mouths, April 2012 (photo K. Sark)
2.14 Montréal student demonstrations on Rue Sherbrooke, April 2015 (photo K. Sark)
Chapter 3
3.1 Filmmaker Karim Zariahen (left) at Montréal Fashion Week, with fashion journalists Elsa Vecchi and Eva Friede, February 2012 (photo K. Sark)
3.2 McCord Museum, on Rue Sherbrooke, October 2014 (photo K. Sark)
3.3 Grace Kelly Expo 67 dress (photo Marilyn Aitken, McCord Museum)
3.4 Christian Chenail, collection inspired by Grace Kelly, Montréal Fashion Week, September 2013 (photo K. Sark)
3.5 “Love in Fashion” exhibition at McCord, 2014−2015 (photo McCord Museum)
3.6 “Horst: Photographer of Style” exhibition at McCord, 2015 (photo McCord Museum)
3.7 Marché Bonsecours, Old Port, November 2012 (photo K. Sark)
3.8 “Tapis rouge” exhibition at MCTQ, September 2013 (photo K. Sark)
3.9 Knit designs, “Totalement maille!” exhibition at MCTQ, August 2014 (photo K. Sark)
3.10 Céline Dion’s stage costume, “Chic and Choc” exhibition at MCTQ, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
3.11 Céline Dion’s stage costume, “Chic and Choc” exhibition at MCTQ, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
3.12 Denis Gagnon Shows All installation at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, October 19, 2010–February 13, 2011 (photo Christine Guest, with the permission of MBAM)
3.13 Denis Gagnon’s golden zipper dress, Montréal Fashion Week, March 2010 (photo Kim Payant, with permission of Denis Gagnon and Kim Payant)
3.14 Denis Gagnon’s golden zipper dress, Montréal Fashion Week, March 2010 (photo Kim Payant)
3.15 “Tom Wesselmann: Beyond Pop Art” exhibition, Colour Block Party at MBAM, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
Chapter 4
4.1 Les Beatles at the Montréal Forum 1964, exhibition at Pointe-à-Callière Museum, 2013−2014 (photo Jean-Louis Frund, with the permission of the Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec)
4.2 Diane Dufresne’s stage costume by designer Michel Robidas, 1986, “Music – Quebec” exhibition at McCord Museum, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
4.3 Patrick Watson’s “Megaphone Suit” designed by Christian Pelletier, 2009, “Music – Quebec” exhibition at McCord Museum, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
4.4 Martha Wainwright’s stage costume 2001, “Music – Quebec” exhibition at McCord Museum, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
4.5 Pierre Lapointe’s Mutantes stage costume, 2008, “Music – Quebec” exhibition at McCord Museum, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
4.6 Céline Dion’s stage costume from 2008 (front) and Rufus Wainwright’s stage costume from 2010 (back), “Music – Quebec” exhibition at McCord Museum, May 2014 (photo K. Sark)
4.7 Maybe Watson of On Déjeune, 2014 (photo Philémon)
4.8 La Main Rebelle and Le Vegan Fru of On Déjeune, 2014 (photo Maybe Watson)
4.9 Jeanne of On Déjeune, 2014 (photo Maybe Watson)
4.10 Rad Hourani, Collections 2007−2013 (with the permission of Rad Hourani)
4.11 Jef Barbara, 2012 (photo by Minelly Kamemura)
Chapter 5
5.1 Fashion blogs Mode News , Polyvore , and Modzik featuring fashion items from Xavier Dolan’s Les amours imaginaires , 2010, with the permission of Polyvore.com
5.2 Colour Block Party at Musée des Beaux-Arts featuring Montréal designs inspired by pop art, during the Tom Wesselman exhibition, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
5.3 Duc C. Nguyen’s red geometric dress from his Coupé à vif (raw cut) collection, at Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, August 2012 (photo K. Sark)
Chapter 6
6.1 Arsenal Gallery, the last edition of Montréal Fashion Week, September 2013 (photo K. Sark)
6.2 Chart: Fashion Cities (compiled by K. Sark)
6.3 Denis Gagnon at his atelier, 2010 (photo Sébastien Roy)
6.4 Denis Gagnon and Simon Bé