Heavy Metal Armour: A Visual Study of Battle Jackets

Thomas Cardwell

Description

The first of its kind – original, unique and beautifully illustrated by the author. Engagingly written, it will appeal to fans and academics alike.

A lavishly illustrated study of the heavy metal battle jacket in a historical and cultural context, with a unique approach to analysis and interrogation of form and style through painting practice and theory.

Since the 1970s, customized denim 'battle jackets' have been worn by heavy metal fans to signify their devotion to the music and subcultures of metal. Embellished by the wearers with patches, badges and studs, these jackets are works of art that communicate the values of metal to the world at large. This book features a series of detailed paintings that visually document examples of jackets alongside photographic portraits of the fans that wear them.

The accompanying chapters describe the significance of battle jackets in metal scenes and trace a lineage of customized clothing starting in the Middle Ages. Connections are made with a wide range of historic and contemporary artworks, suggesting a broad context within which to more fully appreciate the significance of the jackets. The methodology spans a range of disciplines from art theory to ethnography and subcultural studies, and the discussion is informed by responses from a series of interviews conducted over the years with metal fans.

The book has a highly original focus and the author’s approach to the subject is unique. It reaches across a range of fields: the history and cultural context of heavy metal music, style and dress; art history and practice, particularly painting; subcultural studies; fashion and dress; music graphics, branding and marketing.

Tom Cardwell is an artist and researcher specialising in contemporary painting, customized clothing and heavy metal subcultures. He is senior lecturer in painting at Camberwell, University of the Arts London.

It will appeal to readers with an interest in metal subcultures; fashion, style and dress; music branding and identity; contemporary art theory and practice. The writing style and content is relaxed, engaging and will be of interest to a wider casual readership with an interest in popular culture and the arts.

A useful resource for academics and students interested in heavy metal, customized clothing/DIY subcultures, painting and visual arts. Could appeal to undergraduate as well as postgraduates and scholars in these fields, and a broader interest in visual culture.

List of Illustrations vii

Acknowledgements xiii

Foreword xv

          Mark Titchner

Introduction 1

 

1. The Importance of Battle Jackets within Metal Subcultures 15

 

Watercolour Paintings and Jacket Works

 

2. Global Battle Jacket Cultures 49

3. ‘Somewhere Back in Time’, or a Speculative History of the Battle Jacket 59

4. Examining Patches: A Heritage of Images 89

 

Oil Paintings and Fan Portraits

 

5. Setting Trends or Selling Out? Battle Jacket Appropriation in Wider Culture 105

 

Conclusion: ‘See My Vest!’ 125

Appendix: Notes on the Paintings 133

Endnotes 151

References 153

Index 171

Sujets

• Arts visuels
• Peinture
• Musique
• Culture musicale
• Art Plastique
• Arts plastiques
• ART
• Technique
• Music
• Mode (habillement)
• Cultural Studies
• Costume
• Design
• Fashion
• Multiple signal classification
• Painting
• Techniques
• Genres
• Styles
• Heavy Metal

Informations

• Publié par: Intellect Books
• Date de parution: 19 avril 2022
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781789385380
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 5 Mo

Extrait

Heavy Metal Armour
A Visual Study of Battle Jackets

Heavy Metal Armour
A Visual Study of Battle Jackets
Thomas Cardwell
First published in the UK in 2022 by
Intellect, The Mill, Parnall Road, Fishponds, Bristol, BS16 3JG, UK
First published in the USA in 2022 by
Intellect, The University of Chicago Press, 1427 E. 60th Street,
Chicago, IL 60637, USA
Copyright 2022 Intellect Ltd
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Copy editor: MPS Limited
Cover and layout designer: Aleksandra Szumlas
Cover photo: Exodus , 2020, watercolour on paper, 38 26 cm. Courtesy of Thomas Cardwell.
Production editor: Sophia Munyengeterwa
Typesetter: MPS Limited
Print ISBN 978-1-78938-536-6
ePDF ISBN 978-1-78938-537-3
ePUB ISBN 978-1-78938-538-0
Printed and bound by Short Run
To find out about all our publications, please visit our website.
There you can subscribe to our e-newsletter, browse or download our current catalogue, and buy any titles that are in print.
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This is a peer-reviewed publication.
Contents
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Foreword
Mark Titchner
Introduction
1. The Importance of Battle Jackets within Metal Subcultures
Watercolour Paintings and Jacket Works
2. Global Battle Jacket Cultures
3. Somewhere Back in Time , or a Speculative History of the Battle Jacket
4. Examining Patches: A Heritage of Images
Oil Paintings and Fan Portraits
5. Setting Trends or Selling Out? Battle Jacket Appropriation in Wider Culture

Conclusion: See My Vest!
Appendix: Notes on the Paintings
Endnotes
References
Index
Illustrations
Chapter 1
Figure 1.1 Jacket featuring biker patches alongside metal band logos, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.2 Jacket featuring hand-embroidered logos, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.3 Paul wearing his battle jacket, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.4 Amber's jacket featuring many small patches across the back panel, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.5 Yasmin's jacket, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.6 Motörhead, watercolour painting on paper, × 26 cm, 2015.30 Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 1.7 Pete wearing his jacket, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 1.8 Detail of hand-painted patch on Pete's jacket, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Watercolour Paintings and Jacket Works
Figure P.1 Motörhead , 2016, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.2 Aidan's Jacket (front) , 2014, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.3 Iron Maiden , 2014, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.4 Amebix , 2012, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.5 Sabbat , 2013, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.6 Mastodon , 2020, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.7 Manowar , 2013, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.8 Moonsorrow , 2020, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.9 Exodus , 2020, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.10 Death (reverted) , 2014, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.11 AC/DC , 2014, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.12 Judas Priest , 2015, watercolour on paper, 38 × 26 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.13 Emperor , 2013, graphite on paper, 59 × 42 cm. Drawing by Tom Cardwell.
Figure J.1 Kunstkammer II , 2018, unique digitally printed patches on denim jacket, 70 × 50 cm. Jacket by Tom Cardwell.
Figure J.2 Kunstkammer II (Burnout) , 2018, unique digitally printed patches on denim jacket, 70 × 50 cm. Jacket by Tom Cardwell.
Figure J.3 Kulturgeist , 2015, unique embroidered and hand-painted patches on denim jacket, 75 × 55 cm. Jacket by Tom Cardwell.
Chapter 2
Figure 2.1 Photos from the Battle Vest Assault Instagram account showing battle jackets in Indonesia. Screenshot taken by Tom Cardwell, 2020.
Chapter 3
Figure 3.1 Battle Jacket Map, collage on paper, 59 × 84 cm, 2015. Collage by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.2 Illustration of a heraldic tunic, ink on paper, 38 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.3 A fan wearing his ‘authentically’ aged battle jacket, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.4 Illustration of a Pearly King's jacket, ink on paper, 38 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.5 Illustration of the flag of the British Army, ink on paper, 6838 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.6 Dave with his battle jacket (company emblem on lapel right of picture), Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 3.7 Illustration of a customized WW2 American Bomber crew jacket, ink on paper, 38 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.8 Painting of a customized rocker's motorcycle jacket, oil on canvas, 120 × 90 cm, 2016. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.9 Illustration of a customised punk motorcycle jacket, ink on paper, 38 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.10 Illustration of a classic design ‘Type III’ denim jacket, ink on paper, 38 × 26 cm, 2020. Illustration by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.11 Battle jacket showing patch deployment in relation to jacket sections, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.12 Examples of jackets featuring small patches on back panels, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.13 Battle jacket devoted to Iron Maiden, Iron Maiden concert at the O2, London, UK, August 2013. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.14 Battle jacket with collar and sleeves removed, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.15 An example of a fitted battle jacket, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure 3.16 Battle vest customized with studs as a design feature and a designed custom patch scheme, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure 3.17 Painting of a Renaissance altarpiece showing a multi-panelled structure, oil on canvas, 150 × 120 cm, 2011. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Chapter 4
Figure 4.1 Screen-printed back patch for Metallica's Damage, Inc., 1987. Photograph by Tom Cardwell, 2015.
Figure 4.2 Iron Maiden The Beast on the Road 1982 tour patch. Photograph by Tom Cardwell, 2015.
Figure 4.3 Patch featuring cover art for Metallica's Black Album 1991. Photograph by Tom Cardwell, 2015.
Figure 4.4 Patch showing artwork for Exodus’ Bonded by Blood (2007 reissue patch). Photograph by Tom Cardwell, 2015.
Oil Paintings and Fan Portraits
Figure P.14 Kunstkammer , 2014, oil on canvas, 120 × 90 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.15 Local Hero (Trowbridge) , 2014, oil on canvas, 150 × 100 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.16 Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum , 2016, oil on canvas, 120 × 90 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.17 Layers , 2019, oil on canvas, 150 × 120 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.18 Kulturgeist III , 2019, oil on canvas, 100 × 100 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure P.19 Simulacral Tendencies , 2019, oil on canvas, 140 × 80 cm. Painting by Tom Cardwell.
Figure FP.1 Nico, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.2 Dave, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.3 Alex, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.4 Amy, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.5 Amber, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.6 Gary, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.7 Steve, Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.8 Sam, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.9 Frode, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Tom Cardwell.
Figure FP.10 Aron, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.11 Andy, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.12 Jez, Sonisphere festival, UK, July 2014. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.13 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.14 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.15 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.16 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.17 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Figure FP.18 Bloodstock Open Air festival, UK, August 2016. Photograph by Jon Cardwell.
Chapter 5
Figure 5.1 Battle jackets for sale through an online auction site. Screenshot from eBay.co.uk taken by Tom Cardwell, 2019.
Figure 5.2 Custom Death battle vest by Battle Jackets London. Image courtesy of Battle Jackets London, 2020.
Figure 5.3 A limited-edition patch advertised on Iron and Ash social media page. Image courtesy of Iron and Ash, 2021.
Figure 5.4 Metal-style clothing sold in a high-s