Oldport Days

Wentworth Higginson Thomas

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pubOne.info present you this new edition. Our August life rushes by, in Oldport, as if we were all shot from the mouth of a cannon, and were endeavoring to exchange visiting-cards on the way. But in September, when the great hotels are closed, and the bronze dogs that guarded the portals of the Ocean House are collected sadly in the music pavilion, nose to nose; when the last four-in-hand has departed, and a man may drive a solitary horse on the avenue without a pang, - then we know that "the season" is over. Winter is yet several months away, - months of the most delicious autumn weather that the American climate holds. But to the human bird of passage all that is not summer is winter; and those who seek Oldport most eagerly for two months are often those who regard it as uninhabitable for the other ten.

Informations

• Publié par: Pub One Info
• Date de parution: 06 novembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9782819940555
• Langue: English

Extrait

OLDPORT DAYS.
OLDPORT IN WINTER.
Our August life rushes by, in Oldport, as if we wereall shot from the mouth of a cannon, and were endeavoring toexchange visiting-cards on the way. But in September, when thegreat hotels are closed, and the bronze dogs that guarded theportals of the Ocean House are collected sadly in the musicpavilion, nose to nose; when the last four-in-hand has departed,and a man may drive a solitary horse on the avenue without a pang,— then we know that “the season” is over. Winter is yet severalmonths away, — months of the most delicious autumn weather that theAmerican climate holds. But to the human bird of passage all thatis not summer is winter; and those who seek Oldport most eagerlyfor two months are often those who regard it as uninhabitable forthe other ten.
The Persian poet Saadi says that in a certain regionof Armenia, where he travelled, people never died the naturaldeath. But once a year they met on a certain plain, and occupiedthemselves with recreation, in the midst of which individuals ofevery rank and age would suddenly stop, make a reverence to thewest, and, setting out at full speed toward that part of thedesert, be seen no more. It is quite in this fashion that guestsdisappear from Oldport when the season ends. They also are apt togo toward the west, but by steamboat. It is pathetic, on occasionof each annual bereavement, to observe the wonted looks andlanguage of despair among those who linger behind; and it needssome fortitude to think of spending the winter near such a Wharf ofSighs.
But we console ourselves. Each season brings its ownattractions. In summer one may relish what is new in Oldport, asthe liveries, the incomes, the manners. There is often a deliciousfreshness about these exhibitions; it is a pleasure to see someopulent citizen in his first kid gloves. His new-born splendorstands in such brilliant relief against the confirmedrespectability of the “Old Stone Mill, ” the only thing on theAtlantic shore which has had time to forget its birthday! But inwinter the Old Mill gives the tone to the society around it; wethen bethink ourselves of the crown upon our Trinity Churchsteeple, and resolve that the courtesies of a bygone age shall yetlinger here. Is there any other place in America where gentlemenstill take off their hats to one another on the public promenade?The hat is here what it still is in Southern Europe, — the linealsuccessor of the sword as the mark of a gentleman. It is noticedthat, in going from Oldport to New York or Boston, one is liable tobe betrayed by an over-flourish of the hat, as is an Arkansas manby a display of the bowie-knife.
Winter also imparts to these spacious estates adignity that is sometimes wanting in summer. I like to stroll overthem during this epoch of desertion, just as once, when I happenedto hold the keys of a church, it seemed pleasant to sit, on aweek-day, among its empty pews. The silent walls appeared to holdthe pure essence of the prayers of a generation, while the routineand the ennui had vanished all away. One may here do the same withfashion as there with devotion, extracting its finer flavors, ifsuch there be, unalloyed by vulgarity or sin. In the winter I canfancy these fine houses tenanted by a true nobility; all the sonsare brave, and all the daughters virtuous. These balconies haveheard the sighs of passion without selfishness; those cedarn alleyshave admitted only vows that were never broken. If the occupant ofthe house be unknown, even by name, so much the better. And fromhomes more familiar, what lovely childish faces seem still to gazefrom the doorways, what graceful Absences (to borrow a certainpoet's phrase) are haunting those windows!
There is a sense of winter quiet that makes astranger soon feel at home in Oldport, while the prospective stirof next summer precludes all feeling of stagnation. Commonly, inquiet places, one suffers from the knowledge that everybody wouldprefer to be unquiet; but nobody has any such longing here.Doubtless there are aged persons who deplore the good old timeswhen the Oldport mail-bags were larger than those arriving at NewYork. But if it were so now, what memories would there be to talkabout? If you wish for “Syrian peace, immortal leisure, ”— a placewhere no grown person ever walks rapidly along the street, andwhere few care enough for rain to open an umbrella or walk faster,— come here.
My abode is on a broad, sunny street, with a fewgreat elms overhead, and with large old houses and grass-banksopposite. There is so little snow that the outlook in the depth ofwinter is often merely that of a paler and leafless summer, and asoft, springlike sky almost always spreads above. Past the windowstreams an endless sunny panorama (for the house fronts the chiefthoroughfare between country and town), — relics of summerequipages in faded grandeur; great, fragrant hay-carts; vast movingmounds of golden straw; loads of crimson onions; heaps of palegreen cabbages; piles of gray tree-prunings, looking as if thepatrician trees were sending their superfluous wealth of branchesto enrich the impoverished orchards of the Poor Farm; wagons ofsea-weed just from the beach, with bright, moist hues, and drippingwith sea-water and sea-memories, each weed an argosy, bearing itsown wild histories. At this season, the very houses move, and rollslowly by, looking round for more lucrative quarters next season.Never have I seen real estate made so transportable as in Oldport.The purchaser, after finishing and furnishing to his fancy, putshis name on the door, and on the fence a large white placardinscribed “For sale”. Then his household arrangements are complete,and he can sit down to enjoy himself.
By a side-glance from our window, one may look downan ancient street, which in some early epoch of the world'sfreshness received the name of Spring Street. A certain livelylady, addicted to daring Scriptural interpretations, thinks thatthere is some mistake in the current versions of Genesis, and thatit was Spring Street which was created in the beginning, and theheavens and earth at some subsequent period. There are houses inSpring Street, and there is a confectioner's shop; but it is notoften that a sound comes across its rugged pavements, saveperchance (in summer) the drone of an ancient hand-organ, such asmight have been devised by Adam to console his Eve when Paradisewas lost. Yet of late the desecrating hammer and the ear-piercingsaw have entered that haunt of ancient peace. May it be long ereany such invasion reaches those strange little wharves in the lowertown, full of small, black, gambrel-roofed houses, with projectingeaves that might almost serve for piazzas. It is possible for anunpainted wooden building to assume, in this climate, a moretime-worn aspect than that of any stone; and on these wharveseverything is so old, and yet so stunted, you might fancy that thehouses had been sent down there to play during their childhood, andthat nobody had ever remembered to fetch them back.
The ancient aspect of things around us, joined withthe softening influences of the Gulf Stream, imparts an air ofchronic languor to the special types of society which here prevailin winter, — as, for instance, people of leisure, trades-peopleliving on their summer's gains, and, finally, fishermen. Those whopursue this last laborious calling are always lazy to the eye, forthey are on shore only in lazy moments. They work by night or atearly dawn, and by day they perhaps lie about on the rocks, or situpon one heel beside a fish-house door. I knew a missionary whoresigned his post at the Isles of Shoals because it was impossibleto keep the Sunday worshippers from lying at full length on theseats. Our boatmen have the same habit, and there is a certaindreaminess about them, in whatever posture. Indeed, they remind onequite closely of the German boatman in Uhland, who carried hisreveries so far as to accept three fees from one passenger.
But the truth is, that in Oldport we all incline tothe attitude of repose. Now and then a man comes here, from farthereast, with the New England fever in his blood, and with a pestilentdesire to do something. You hear of him, presently, proposing thatthe Town Hall should be repainted. Opposition would require toomuch effort, and the thing is done. But the Gulf Stream soon takesits revenge on the intruder, and gradually repaints him also, withits own soft and mellow tints. In a few years he would no morebestir himself to fight for a change than to fight against it.
It makes us smile a little, therefore, to observethat universal delusion among the summer visitors, that we spendall winter in active preparations for next season. Not so; we alldevote it solely to meditations on the season past. I observe thatnobody in Oldport ever believes in any coming summer. Perhaps thetide is turned, we think, and people will go somewhere else. You donot find us altering our houses in December, or building out newpiazzas even in March. We wait till the people have actually cometo occupy them. The preparation for visitors is made after thevisitors have arrived. This may not be the way in which things aredone in what are called “smart business places. ” But it is our wayin Oldport.
It is another delusion to suppose that we are boredby this long epoch of inactivity. Not at all; we enjoy it. If youenter a shop in winter, you will find everybody rejoiced to seeyou— as a friend; but if it turns out that you have come as acustomer, people will look a little disappointed. It is ratherinconsiderate of you to make such demands out of season. Winter isnot exactly the time for that sort of thing. It seems rather toviolate the conditions of the truce. Could you not postpone theaffair till next July? Every country has its customs; I observethat in some places, New York for instance, the shopkeepers seemrather to enjoy a “field-day” when the sun and the customers areout. In Oldport, on the contrary, me