Whether it's grilled corn on the patio or a hot bowl of soup by the fire, the foods we eat are often intimately connected to the seasons of the year. For twenty years, award-winning food writer and historian Peter G. Rose has written a column on family food for newspapers in the Hudson Valley, and this light-hearted cookbook includes some of her most popular recipes. Drawing on the rich historical and culinary legacy of the Hudson Valley, Rose offers simple, easy-to-make recipes for patio, boat, cabin, or RV in the summer, and for enjoying by the fireside in the winter. Along the way she offers tidbits of food history, ideas for entertaining, and suggestions for using local ingredients. Informative and tasty, these recipes showcase the Hudson Valley as both a culinary and historic destination. Acknowledgments
Part I SUMMER
Introduction to Part I
1. Breakfast foods that make a difference
Baked eggs in toast cups or hollowed-out tomatoes Blueberry/peach coffee cake Fruit scones Great-grandma's applesauce cake Sunshine eggs
2. Sandwiches to enjoy at home or to take along
Chicken salad with sliced almonds Chime sandwich, open-faced Ham, egg, and asparagus sandwich spread Herb spread with salami Vidalia onion, tomatoes, and olives spread
3. Salads, with fresh or cooked vegetables
Basil beans Cucumber and radish salad Carley's zucchini salad Grandma's four bean salad Rosolje (Estonian herring salad)
4. Soups, cold for a hot summer's day
Chilled asparagus soup Chilled broccoli and tarragon soup Chilled cucumber and avocado soup Chilled curried zucchini soup Chilled melon/strawberry soup with champagne
5. Hors d'oeuvres or anytime snacks
Blue cheese ball with almonds Deviled eggs with Hudson Valley mustard Jicama with chili salt Kippered herring spread on cucumber slices Zebras (whole grain bread with butter and Gouda cheese)
6 Simple main courses
Grilled meatballs with scallions, Turkish style Grilled striped bass fillets Grilled turkey and nectarine kebabs Mushroom quiche without a crust Salmon patties from the Sharing Community
7. Vegetables and grains
Couscous with dried cranberries and walnuts Grilled corn Little red potatoes with butter, parsley, and chives Ratatouille with anise seed Wild rice with bacon and toasted pecans
8. Desserts—(not so) sinful, sweet indulgences
Apricot tartlets Frozen nectarine pie Mother's cake Prune plum parfait Rhubarb with raspberries
9. Cookies, small treats to take along
Brown sugar dainties Ginger treats Hollenger cakes (poppy seed bars) Jan Hagel (almond and cinnamon-sugar bar cookies) Thumbs
10. The little extras that make any occasion special
Almond, apricot, and chocolate balls Grandma's hot sauce Herb butter Peter's strawberry lemonade with lemon balm Roman punch
Part II WINTER
Introduction to Part II
11. Breakfast foods that make a difference Breakfast cookies Breakfast pancakes with kielbasa sausage Canadian bacon with apples Herbed omelet with chanterelles Honey muffins
12. Sandwiches
Chicken and mushroom ragoût on toast Danish smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) with Italian salad Donna's egg salads Portobello mushroom sandwich Vegetable Reuben sandwich
13. Salads
Beet salad with celery and currants Belgian endive salad with orange Brussels sprouts salad Cauliflower salad with cumin dressing Donna's winter salad
14 Soups, hot for a cold winter's day
Cauliflower soup Celery root soup Cucumber soup with radishes Mustard soup Potato soup with white wine
15. Hors d'oeuvres or anytime snacks
Curried cheese sticks Dates stuffed with feta mousse and wrapped in bacon Horseradish and bacon spread Mushroom tart Puffs with salmon pâté
16. Simple main courses
Baked red snapper on a bed of lemons with lemon butter Belgian endive with ham and cheese sauce Peter's meatloaf Pork chops with pears and blue cheese Stuffed Savoy cabbage rolls
17. Vegetables, fruits, or grains
Curly endive with mashed potatoes and bacon Leeks Red and golden beets Stewed oranges Sweet potatoes with apples and sage
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Extrait
e
Summer Pleasures, Winter Pleasures
A HUDSON VALLEY COOKBOOK
PETER G. ROSE
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Summer Pleasures, Winter Pleasures
ee excelsioreditions an imprint of state university of new york press
Summer Pleasures, Winter Pleasures J A HUDSON VALLEY COOKBOOK
PETER G. ROSE
front cover: Lunch is served overlooking Haverstraw Bay with a view of Croton Point Park. Chilled lovage soup starts a meal of Hudson Valley cheeses, smoked fish with a horseradish sauce, salad, breads, and a dessert of rice pudding with almond sticks and fruit. back cover: Coffee and an almond-filledS-shaped puff pastry are wait-ing by the fire on December 5, Saint Nicholas Eve, an important Dutch celebration. photographs:Richard Jacobs;food styling:Peter G. Rose
Published by State University of New York Press, Albany
No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission. No part of this book may be stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means including electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of the publisher.
For information, contact State University of New York Press, Albany, NY www.sunypress.edu
Production and book design, Laurie Searl Marketing, Fran Keneston
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Rose, Peter G. Summer pleasures, winter pleasures : a Hudson Valley cookbook / Peter G. Rose. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-4384-2987-8 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Cookery, American. 2. Cookery—Hudson River Valley (N.Y. and N.J.) I. Title. TX715.R8337 2009 641.59747’3—dc22 2009019141 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
to my mother, for the past to Don, for the present
to Peter Pamela, for the future
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Contents
Acknowledgments
Part IJSUMMER Introduction to Part I
1
2
3
Breakfast foods that make a difference Baked eggs in toast cups or hollowed-out tomatoes Blueberry/peach coffee cake Fruit scones Great-grandma’s applesauce cake Sunshine eggs
Sandwiches to enjoy at home or to take along Chicken salad with sliced almonds Chimesandwich, open-faced Ham, egg, and asparagus sandwich spread Herb spread with salami Vidalia onion, tomatoes, and olives spread
Salads, with fresh or cooked vegetables Basil beans Cucumber and radish salad Carley’s zucchini salad Grandma’s four bean salad Rosolje(Estonian herring salad)
xiii
3
5 6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22
vii
viii
4
5
6
7
8
Soups, cold for a hot summer’s day Chilled asparagus soup Chilled broccoli and tarragon soup Chilled cucumber and avocado soup Chilled curried zucchini soup Chilled melon/strawberry soup with champagne
Hors d’oeuvres or anytime snacks Blue cheese ball with almonds Deviled eggs with Hudson Valley mustard Jicama with chili salt Kippered herring spread on cucumber slices Zebras (whole grain bread with butter and Gouda cheese)
Simple main courses Grilled meatballs with scallions, Turkish style Grilled striped bass fillets Grilled turkey and nectarine kebabs Mushroom quiche without a crust Salmon patties from the Sharing Community
Vegetables and grains Couscous with dried cranberries and walnuts Grilled corn Little red potatoes with butter, parsley, and chives Ratatouille with anise seed Wild rice with bacon and toasted pecans
Desserts—(not so) sinful, sweet indulgences Apricot tartlets Frozen nectarine pie Mother’s cake Prune plum parfait Rhubarb with raspberries