A Guide to Making Your Own Fishing-Rod and Tackle

Anon

Description

This vintage book contains a complete guide to building your own fishing-rod and tackle. With simple, step-by-step instructions and a wealth of handy tips and tricks, this handbook is highly recommended for the economical fisherman, and would make for a fantastic addition to collections of angling literature. Contents include: “A Short History of Fishing”, “Making a Cane Rod”, “Rods From Wood”, “(Built) Split Cane Rods”, “Floats”, “The Fisherman’s Box”, and “Fishing Tackle”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly rare and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on fishing.

Sujets

• Sport
• Autour du sport
• Histoire du sport
• Autres sports
• Sports de plein air
• Sports
• Fishing
• Recreation

Informations

• Publié par: Read Books Ltd.
• Date de parution: 26 avril 2013
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781473380240
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 1 Mo

Extrait

A Guide to Making Your Own Fishing-Rod and Tackle
Contents Page
Fishing-Rods - Making a Cane Rod
Rods From Wood
(Built) Split Cane Rods
Fishing Tackle - Floats
The Fisherman s Box
Reels
FISHING-RODS
1. MAKING A CANE ROD
Owing to the high cost of fishing tackle and the growing interest in handicraft, more people are taking to making their own tackle. Many firms are now producing partly manufactured equipment so that assembly and finishing processes can be done by the angler himself. Most satisfactory from every point of view, however, is to make the rod completely from raw materials, since they carry no purchase tax, and the satisfaction of having a piece of equipment made entirely from scratch is well worth the effort involved
RODS may be made from cane, solid wood, or split bamboo. The three types demand different techniques, and these techniques are progressively difficult to master. This first article, therefore, deals with the easiest method, and describes how a good cane rod suitable for roach fishing can be made quite cheaply.
Preparing the Cane. -Tapered bamboo, rods from Brazil, East India, or Japan are best and are obtainable in lengths of from 10 ft. to 16 ft. The Japanese rods are excellent, being very light, and extremely hard and strong. They taper from about 7/8 in. diameter at the butt to about 3/32 in. at the tip.
The rod must be sawn into three equal lengths. If ordered by post, the merchant should be advised of the use to which the cane is to be put. He will then select a suitable rod and cut it carefully. It is necessary to cut away about 6 in. from both ends of each section to give the reduction in diameter from one section to the next for fitting the ferrules.

All knots must be filed down and the canes straightened. There will be slight swellings left at the knots, but this will not detract from the finished appearance. File only at the knots, for the cane walls are thin and the natural enamel on the surface is the best protective covering.
Rods which need it may be straightened by heating. When hot, they bend easily, and, on cooling, will stay in that position. A board of wood about 1 1/2in. thick should be held vertically in a vice, and holes of various sizes bored through it. The heated cane is then put in a hole and straightened by bearing it against the sides of the hole.
The hollow ends of the cane must be plugged with wooden cores. Any wood will do, but Sarawak cane is the best and may be purchased as handle cane from any handicraft shop dealing in basketry materials. The plug should enter the cane for about three inches and is glued in place with a good waterproof cement. If the cane has been cut at a knot, it is necessary to remove an inch or two in order to plug it well. The ends of each section of the rod are now solid and may be relied on for strength when the ferrules are fitted.

FIG. 1. HOW THE FERRULES AND CORK HANDLE ARE FITTED
A-The rod is in three sections, the male ferrule being fitted to the bottom end of a section, and the female ferrule to the top of the adjacent section. B-Two sections assembled. Note that the rod is whipped at the ends of the ferrules. C-A cork handle is made in sections, the last section being added after the winch fittings, as shown at D
Ferrules. -Fitting ferrules is the most important part of rod making. Thinwalled, hard-drawn brass tubing is obtainable in sizes that slide-fit one size into the next, from 4 mm. up to 25 mm. A foot length of each size will make ferrules for a rod of any diameter. The female, or counter-ferrule is fitted first. A piece of tubing is selected of such a diameter that it will not quite fit on the cane. The counter-ferrule always fits the top of one section and the male fits the bottom of the next. The cane must be very carefully filed round until the ferrule can be driven on, so that the cane enters halfway into the tubing, which must be about three inches long ( Fig. 1 , A ) and must be very tight on the cane. Before finally driving it home, a smear of cellulose lacquer or synthetic resin glue should be run round the cane to fix the ferrule firmly. It may also be pinned on with a brass pin right through ferrule and cane, with the ends filed off flush. It is better, however, to have a good unpinned joint than a poor pinned one.
The male ferrule should be about 1 3/4 in. long and is fitted to the bottom of the next cane, the whole of its length being driven on.
Handle. -This consists of corks bored through the centre and slid on to the cane ( Fig. 1 , C ). The corks are bored with a piece of sharpened tubing similar to that used for the ferrules. The borer should be twisted into the cork, withdrawn when halfway through, and the hole completed by doing the same from the other end. Good quality corks may be obtained quite cheaply from a cork manufacturer. They are 1 1/2 in. long by 1 1/4 in. diameter and about twelve should be used.
They are glued together on the rod with a waterproof cement, and shaped as shown in Fig. 1 ( D ). Shaping is best done on a lathe with glasspaper, or in a bench drilling machine if the chuck overhangs the bench. Alternatively, the corks may be filed to shape and finished with glasspaper. A small washer of aluminium should be stuck to the topmost cork to prevent crumbling. The rubber button ( Fig. 1 , D ) may be bought from a tackle shop, but the screw thread fitting, which is usually 3/8 in. B.S.F. must be sawn off and a brass wood-screw soldered in its place. The button will then screw into the plug in the bottom of the butt.

FIG. 2. SHAPING THE WINCH FITTINGS
These are made from thinwalle