Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest Peak in North America

Hudson Stuck

Description

Forefront in this book, because forefront in the author's heart and desire, must stand a plea for the restoration to the greatest mountain in North America of its immemorial native name. If there be any prestige or authority in such matter from the accomplishment of a first complete ascent, if there be any virtue, if there be any praise, the author values it chiefly as it may give weight to this plea.

Sujets

• USA
• États-Unis

Informations

• Publié par: Pub One Info
• Date de parution: 23 octobre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9782819905110
• Langue: English

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PREFACE
Forefront in this book, because forefront in theauthor's heart and desire, must stand a plea for the restoration tothe greatest mountain in North America of its immemorial nativename. If there be any prestige or authority in such matter from theaccomplishment of a first complete ascent, "if there be any virtue,if there be any praise," the author values it chiefly as it maygive weight to this plea.
It is now little more than seventeen years ago thata prospector penetrated from the south into the neighborhood ofthis mountain, guessed its height with remarkable accuracy attwenty thousand feet, and, ignorant of any name that it alreadybore, placed upon it the name of the Republican candidate forPresident of the United States at the approaching election –William McKinley. No voice was raised in protest, for the AlaskanIndian is inarticulate and such white men as knew the old name wereabsorbed in the search for gold. Some years later an officer of theUnited States army, upon a reconnoissance survey into the land,passed around the companion peak, and, alike ignorant or carelessof any native name, put upon it the name of an Ohio politician, atthat time prominent in the councils of the nation, Joseph Foraker.So there they stand upon the maps, side by side, the two greatestpeaks of the Alaskan range, "Mount McKinley" and "Mount Foraker."And there they should stand no longer, since, if there be right andreason in these matters, they should not have been placed there atall.
To the relatively large Indian population of thosewide regions of the interior of Alaska from which the mountains arevisible they have always borne Indian names. The natives of themiddle Yukon, of the lower three hundred miles of the Tanana andits tributaries, of the upper Kuskokwim have always called thesemountains "Denali" (Den-ah'li) and "Denali's Wife" – eitherprecisely as here written, or with a dialectical difference inpronunciation so slight as to be negligible.
It is true that the little handful of natives on theSushitna River, who never approach nearer than a hundred miles tothe mountain, have another name for it. They call it Traléika , which, in their wholly different language, has thesame signification. It is probably true of every great mountainthat it bears diverse native names as one tribe or another, on thisside or on that of its mighty bulk, speaks of it. But the area inwhich, and the people by whom, this mountain is known as Denali,preponderate so greatly as to leave no question which native nameit should bear. The bold front of the mountain is so placed on thereturning curve of the Alaskan range that from the interior itssnows are visible far and wide, over many thousands of squaremiles; and the Indians of the Tanana and of the Yukon, as well asof the Kuskokwim, hunt the caribou well up on its foot-hills. Itssouthern slopes are stern and forbidding through depth of snow andviolence of glacial stream, and are devoid of game; its slopestoward the interior of the country are mild and amene, with lightsnowfall and game in abundance.
Should the reader ever be privileged, as the authorwas a few years ago, to stand on the frozen surface of LakeMinchúmina and see these mountains revealed as the clouds of apassing snow-storm swept away, he would be overwhelmed by themajesty of the scene and at the same time deeply moved with theappropriateness of the simple native names; for simplicity isalways a quality of true majesty. Perhaps nowhere else in the worldis so abrupt and great an uplift from so low a base. The marshesand forests of the upper Kuskokwim, from which these mountainsrise, cannot be more than one thousand five hundred feet above thesea. The rough approximation by the author's aneroid in the journeyfrom the Tanana to the Kuskokwim would indicate a still lower level– would make this wide plain little more than one thousand feethigh. And they rise sheer, the tremendous cliffs of them apparentlyunbroken, soaring superbly to more than twenty thousand andseventeen thousand feet respectively: Denali, "the great one," andDenali's Wife. And the little peaks in between the natives call the"children." It was on that occasion, standing spellbound at thesublimity of the scene, that the author resolved that if it were inhis power he would restore these ancient mountains to the ancientpeople among whom they rear their heads. Savages they are, if thereader please, since "savage" means simply a forest dweller, andthe author is glad himself to be a savage a great part of everyyear, but yet, as savages, entitled to name their own rivers, theirown lakes, their own mountains. After all, these terms – "savage,""heathen," "pagan" – mean, alike, simply "country people," andpoint to some old-time superciliousness of the city-bred, nowconfined, one hopes, to such localities as Whitechapel and theBowery.
There is, to the author's mind, a certain ruthlessarrogance that grows more offensive to him as the years pass by, inthe temper that comes to a "new" land and contemptuously ignoresthe native names of conspicuous natural objects, almost alwaysappropriate and significant, and overlays them with names that are,commonly, neither the one nor the other. The learned societies ofthe world, the geographical societies, the ethnological societies,have set their faces against this practice these many years past,and to them the writer confidently appeals. * * * * *
This preface must bear a grateful acknowledgment tothe most distinguished of Alaskans – the man who knows more ofAlaska than any other human being – Peter Trimble Rowe, seventeenyears bishop of that immense territory, for the "cordial assent"which he gave to the proposed expedition and the leave of absencewhich rendered it possible – one more in a long list of kindnesseswhich have rendered happy an association of nearly ten years. Norcan better place be found for a tribute of gratitude to those whowere of the little party: to Mr. Harry P. Karstens, strong,competent, and resourceful, the real leader of the expedition inthe face of difficulty and danger; to Mr. Robert G. Tatum, who tookhis share, and more than his share, of all toil and hardship andwas a most valuable colleague; to Walter Harper, Indian-bred untilhis sixteenth year, and up to that time trained in not much elsethan Henry of Navarre's training, "to shoot straight, to speak thetruth; to do with little food and less sleep" (though equal to anabundance of both on occasion), who joyed in the heights as amountain-sheep or a chamois, and whose sturdy limbs and broadshoulders were never weary or unwilling – to all of these there isheartfelt affection and deep obligation. Nor must Johnny beforgotten, the Indian boy who faithfully kept the base camp duringa long vigil, and killed game to feed the dogs, and denied himself,unasked, that others might have pleasure, as the story will tell.And the name of Esaias, the Indian boy who accompanied us to thebase camp, and then returned with the superfluous dogs, must bementioned, with commendation for fidelity and thanks for service.Acknowledgment is also made to many friends and colleagues at themission stations in the interior, who knew of the purpose andfurthered it greatly and held their tongues so that no prematurescreaming bruit of it got into the Alaskan newspapers: to the Rev.C. E. Betticher, Jr., particularly and most warmly.
The author would add, perhaps quite unnecessarily,yet lest any should mistake, a final personal note. He is noprofessed explorer or climber or "scientist," but a missionary, andof these matters an amateur only. The vivid recollection of a backbent down with burdens and lungs at the limit of their functionmakes him hesitate to describe this enterprise as recreation. Itwas the most laborious undertaking with which he was everconnected; yet it was done for the pleasure of doing it, and thepleasure far outweighed the pain. But he is concerned much morewith men than mountains, and would say, since "out of the fullnessof the heart the mouth speaketh," that his especial and growingconcern, these ten years past, is with the native people of Alaska,a gentle and kindly race, now threatened with a wanton andsenseless extermination, and sadly in need of generous champions ifthat threat is to be averted.
CHAPTER I
PREPARATION AND APPROACH
The enterprise which this volume describes was acherished purpose through a number of years. In the exercise of hisduties as Archdeacon of the Yukon, the author has travelledthroughout the interior of Alaska, both winter and summer, almostcontinuously since 1904. Again and again, now from one distantelevation and now from another, the splendid vision of the greatestmountain in North America has spread before his eyes, and left himeach time with a keener longing to enter its mysterious fastnessesand scale its lofty peaks. Seven years ago, writing in TheSpirit of Missions of a view of the mountain from the PedroDome, in the neighborhood of Fairbanks, he said: "I would ratherclimb that mountain than discover the richest gold-mine in Alaska."Indeed, when first he went to Alaska it was part of the attractionwhich the country held for him that it contained an unclimbedmountain of the first class.
Scawfell and Skiddaw and Helvellyn had given him hisfirst boyish interest in climbing; the Colorado and CanadianRockies had claimed one holiday after another of maturer years, butthe summit of Rainier had been the greatest height he had everreached. When he went to Alaska he carried with him all thehypsometrical instruments that were used in the ascent as well ashis personal climbing equipment. There was no definite likelihoodthat the opportunity would come to him of attempting the ascent,but he wished to be prepared with instruments of adequate scale incase the opportunity should come; and Hicks, of London, made themnine years ago. [Sidenote: Members of the Party]
Long ago, also, he had picked out Mr. Harry P.Karstens, of Fairbanks, as the one