Berliner Chic

Katrina Sark, Susan Ingram

Description

Since becoming the capital of reunited Germany, Berlin has had a dose of global money and international style added to its already impressive cultural veneer. Once home to emperors and dictators, peddlers and spies, it is now a fashion showplace that attracts the young and hip. Moving beyond descriptions of Berlin's fashion industry and its ready-to-wear clothing, Berliner Chic charts the turbulent stories of entrepreneurially-savvy manufacturers and cultural workers striving to establish their city as a fashion capital, and being repeatedly interrupted by politics, ideology, and war. There are many stories to tell about Berlin's fashion industry and Berliner Chic tells them all with considerable expertise.

Introduction: Locating Berliner Chic

 

Chapter One: Berliner Chic in Museums

 

Chapter Two: Berliner Chic and Historiography

 

Chapter Three: Berliner Chic Between Fashion and Photography

 

Chapter Four: Berliner Chic on the Silver Screen

 

Chapter Five: Berlin Calling: Sex and Drugs and Punk and Techno

 

Chapter Six: Becoming Berlin: The Flux of Corporate Luxe

 

Conclusion: Where Fashion Lives Today: Battleground Berlin

Sujets

• HISTORY
• Histoire
• Cosmetics
• General officer
• Media studies
• Fashion
• General
• Germany
• Mode (habillement)
• Europe

Informations

• Publié par: Intellect Books
• Date de parution: 27 avril 2011
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781841504322
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 2 Mo

Extrait

Berliner Chic
Berliner Chic
A Locational History of Berlin Fashion
Susan Ingram and Katrina Sark
First published in the UK in 2011 by Intellect, The Mill, Parnall Road, Fishponds, Bristol, BS16 3JG, UK
First published in the USA in 2011 by Intellect, The University of Chicago Press, 1427 E. 60th Street, Chicago, IL 60637, USA
Copyright 2011 Intellect Ltd
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ingram, Susan (Susan V.)
Berliner chic : a locational history of Berlin fashion / Susan Ingram and Katrina Sark.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references.
ISBN 978-1-84150-369-1 (pbk.) -- ISBN 978-1-84150-432-2 (e-book) 1. Fashion--Germany--Berlin--History. 2. Clothing--Germany--Berlin--History. 3. Women designers--Germany--Berlin--History. I. Sark, Katrina. II. Title.
GT931.B47I54 2011
391.00943 155--dc22
2010030866
Cover designer: Holly Rose Copy-editor: Jennifer Alluisi Typesetting: Mac Style, Beverley, E. Yorkshire
ISBN 978-1-84150-369-1 / EISBN 978-1-84150-432-2
Printed and bound by Gutenberg Press, Malta.
Contents
List of Illustrations
Dedication
Acknowledgements
Introduction: Locating Berliner Chic
Chapter 1: Berliner Chic in Museums
Chapter 2: Berliner Chic and Historiography
Chapter 3: Berliner Chic and Photography
Chapter 4: Berliner Chic on the Silver Screen
Chapter 5: Berlin Calling: Sex and Drugs and Punk and Techno
Chapter 6: Becoming Berlin: The Flux of Corporate Luxe
Chapter 7: Conclusion - Where Fashion Lives Today, Battleground Berlin
References
List of Illustrations
W e have gone to great effort to trace and contact the copyright holders of all images in this book. We regret that the rights to some images, like those by Helmut Newton, proved beyond our means, but are all the more grateful to those copyright owners who have granted permission, and provided us with reasonable terms, to reproduce their works. We would especially like to acknowledge the generosity of the Stiftung F.C. Gundlach in this regard. If any copyright holders of images have not been properly credited, please contact the publishers, who will be happy to rectify future editions.
Cover:
Heinrich Zille, Linienstra e 34. (Heinrich-Zille-Gesellschaft Berlin E.V.)
Introduction:
0.1. Berlin, 1995. (Photo: Rico Puhlmann, Archive Rico Puhlmann)
0.2. Linienstra e 34, November 2009. (Photo: K. Sark)
0.3. Window of the Zille Destille restaurant, Propststrasse 10. (Photo: K. Sark)
0.4. Textil Report cover, Rico Puhlmann. (Archive Rico Puhlmann)
0.5. Berliner Chic postcard stand on Unter den Linden. (Photo: S. Ingram)
Chapter One:
1.1. Altes Museum. (Photo: S. Ingram)
1.2. Franz Defregger: Portrait of Franz Lipperheide, 1905. (Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstbibliothek)
1.3. Frieda Lipperheide, after a photo by E. Encke, 1885. (Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstbibliothek)
1.4. Lehrb cher der Modenwelt 1897. (Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstbibliothek)
1.5. First exhibition of the Lipperheide Costume Library, March 1900 in the Lichthof of the Kunstgewerbemuseums. (Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstbibliothek)
1.6. A Century of Fashion, 1796-1896. (Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstbibliothek)
1.7. Cover, 1920s Fashion exhibition catalogue. (Stadtmuseum Berlin)
1.8. Heinz Oestergaard, at a showing of Cupresa-Cuprama items, 1952. The model on the left is Irmgard Kunde; on the right is Marina Ottens. Unknown photographer.
1.9. Sweater from Museum Europ ischer Kulturen fashion collection. (Photo: K. Sark)
1.10. Boxes of the fashion collection of the Stadtmuseum Fashion Department. (Photo: K. Sark)
1.11. Hanging clothes from the fashion collection of Museum Europ ischer Kulturen. (Photo: K. Sark)
1.12. Kamer/Ruf collection on display at the Kunstgewerbemuseum. (Photo: K. Sark)
1.13. Warhol dresses from the Kamer/Ruf collection on display. (Photo: K. Sark)
1.14. Free Within Limits/Border exhibition at the Kunstgewerbemuseum. (Photo: S. Ingram)
1.15. Frieda von Wild, Berlin 1988. (Photo: Sybille Bergemann, Sybille Bergemann/Ostkreuz)
1.16. Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent at the Kunstgewerbemuseum. (Photo: S. Ingram)
1.17. c.neeon fashion show in front of the Kunstgewerbemuseum , July 2008. (Photo: S. Ingram)
Chapter Two:
2.1. The large sales room, lighted from above, of House Hermann Gerson at Werdersche Markt 5. (Stadtmuseum Berlin)
2.2. The sales room of Rudolph Hertzog s, around the year 1850. (Stadtmuseum Berlin)
2.3. Stairwell memorial at the Hausvogteiplatz U-Bahn: From the Address Book of the Berlin Ready-To-Wear Firms. (Photo: K. Sark)
Chapter Three:
3.1. A Gun for Hire exhibit at the Museum for Photography, 2005. (Photo: K. Sark)
3.2. Statue of Heinrich Zille in the Zille Museum. (Photo: S. Ingram)
3.3. Statue of Heinrich Zille, next to the Nikolaikirche in the Nikolaiviertel. (Photo: K. Sark)
3.4. Zille Destille restaurant, Propststrasse 10. (Photo: K. Sark)
3.5. Cover of Amica , 14 November 1995. (Photo: Rico Puhlmann, Archive Rico Puhlmann)
3.6. Flirting in the Stadium, Candy and Michael Cramer in Berlin s Olympic Stadium, Clothing Lindenstaedt und Brettschneiter, F.C. Gundlach, Berlin 1954. (Stiftung F. C. Gundlach)
Chapter Four:
4.1. Zarah Leander at a fitting with Heinz Oestergaard, April 1954. (Deutsches Historisches Museum)
4.2. Uli Richter. (M nchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotographie)
4.3. Berlinale statue in the Sony Centre. (Photo: K. Sark)
Chapter Five:
5.1. Meistersaal building, list of occupants in entryway. (Photo: K. Sark)
5.2. Meistersaal building, K thener Stra e 38, exterior view. (Photo: K. Sark)
5.3. Trabi Safari in front of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. (Photo: S. Ingram)
5.4. Trabi Safari down the street from Checkpoint Charlie. (Photo: S. Ingram)
5.5. Trabis from the Zoo Tour at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, Cleveland. (Photo: S. Ingram)
5.6. Ramones Museum founder, Flo Hayler. (F. Hayler)
5.7. Ramones Museum, Krausnickstra e 23. (F. Hayler)
5.8. Ramones Museum, Krausnickstra e 23. (Photo: S. Ingram)
Chapter Six:
6.1. The Palace of the Republic, viewed from the Spree, 2005. (Photo: S. Ingram)
6.2. The razed site where the Palace of the Republic once stood, November 2009. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.3. Corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstra e after Hotel Unter den Linden ; was torn down to make room for the Upper East Side shopping mall, June 2006. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.4. Bebelplatz, Fashion Week 2009. (Photo: S. Ingram)
6.5. Be Berlin poster. (Photo: S. Ingram)
6.6. Be Berlin as a sponsor of Fashion Week 2008. (Photo: S. Ingram)
6.7. Black Roses Berlin, Alte Sch nhauser Strasse 39. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.8. Shoes Berlin, Rosenthaler Strasse 50. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.9. Interior of Made in Berlin, Neue Sch nhauser Strasse 19. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.10. Interior of Skunk Funk Berlin, Kastanienallee 19. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.11. Interior of Berlinomat, Frankfurter Allee 89. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.12. Waahnsinn Berlin, Rosenthaler Strasse 17. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.13. Eastberlin, Alte Sch nhauser Strasse 33-34. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.14. Sophienhof with sewing machine. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.15. All Saints display with sewing machines, Rosenthalerstrasse 52. (Photo: K. Sark)
6.16. Interior of Cube, Sch nhauser Arkaden mall. (Photo: K. Sark)
Chapter Seven
7.1. Nice that we were there, graffiti on Prinzenstrasse, August 2009. (Photo: S. Ingram)
Dedication
T he story of Berliner Chic is, in the first instance, the story of the women of Berlin, the Berlinerinnen . Even more than the male designers, manufacturers ( Konfektion re ), middle-men ( Zwischenmeister ), illustrators, photographers, collectors, museum directors, corporate executives and creative entrepreneurs, it is the women of Berlin who have given Berliner Chic its lasting significance.
Berlinerinnen have always made clothes: from the nineteenth-century home seamstresses, whose hard, underpaid work made the ready-to-wear industry not only possible but highly successful, to designers like Sabine von Oettingen, who made clothes for underground fashion shows in the GDR out of shower curtains and plastic used by farmers to cover strawberries.
In clothing themselves, Berlinerinnen have always pushed the limits of not only their imaginations but also their means: from the glamorous flappers of the golden twenties, who popularized the stylish Berlin look by parading along Kurf rstendamm and prided themselves on being able to distinguish between real and artificial silk; to the rubble women among the ruins of Berlin in the post-WWII years, who sewed clothes out of dish rags ( Lumpenkleider ) and army blankets, and who, like Fassbinder s Maria Braun, traded American cigarettes for a rare new dress on the black market; to the Botschafterinnen der Mode (female fashion ambassadors) models of the economic-miracle-years, who became the faces of German post-war fashion.
Berlinerinnen have also done much to preserve and collect clothes: women like Dorit L cke, who worked at the GDR Fashion Institute for over twenty years until its dissolution in 1991 and fought for its collections and archive to remain intact until it became a part of the Stadtmuseum ; women like Christine Waidenschlager, fashion curator at the Berlin Museum since the beginnings of its fashion collection in the 1980s, who organized the Berliner Chic exhibition for the Stadtmuseum , along with many other fashion exhibitions and publications, and who now works at the Kunstgewerbemuseum ; women like Dagmar Neuland-Kitzerow, who is in charge of the fashion collection at the Museum of European Cultures in Dahlem, curated its