Split in your pocket

Grafika03

Description

“In Your Pocket: “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- A cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times The New York Times

Sujets

• Split
• Croatia
• City
• Guide
• Travel

Informations

• Publié par: Communicare
• Publié le: 05 août 2013
• Nombre de lectures: 91
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 33 Mo

Extrait

Hotels Restaurants Cafés

SPLIT

N°6 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Summer 2013

Sightseeing Events Maps

InYourPocket:A cheeky,well- writtenseriesofguidebooks. TheNewYorkTimes

The soul of the city Splits markets today and back in time

Camping in Croatia We have all the hot spots so get your gear ready

Makarska Riviera Sunny climate, unique coves and long pebbly beaches

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S Contents Arriving in Split 5 Land ahoy! The Basics 6 Whither toilets? Culture & Events 7 Festival fun and music mania Camping 11 Experience a night under the twinkling stars Where to stay 14 Your home away from home Local flavour 19 Fresh and always a buzz! Dining & Nightlife 26 Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés 31 Grab a book and watch the world go by Nightlife 32 Step out in Split style Retreat to a spectacular coastal getaway between the majestic mountains and shimmering sea (Photo by Baka Voda Tourist Board, see page 40) split.inyourpocket.com

CONTENTS

Savour the local flavours and dishes along with the aroma of fresh fish at the market, transporting us back to the times gone by (see page 19)

What to see  Check out the highlights Makarska Riviera Day trip galore Sport Adventure sports, sailing...

Getting around Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping Perfect gifts and souvenirs

Directory  Grown up important stuff

Split Dalmatia County Out and about around the city

Maps & Index Street registrer

County map City map City centre map Country map

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40

52

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57

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62

74 75 77 78 82

Summer 2013

3

4

FOREWORD

F st o e r e d p e e c d a i d n e  s hi  s S t p o li r t y   w a a n s d   a c n u  lt o u d r d e   p th a a r t a  d di o d x, n   a t  s ci e t e y m Thket to care whether it got a slice of the tourism pie or not. The last few years have seen a huge change Northern Estonia in Splits fortunes. Modern travellers have been usRasi danelIr turned on by the sheer urban energy of one of the Ireland Latvia Mediterraneans great port cities, and have opted Luhtiaina to stick around for a few days rather than hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals  who Belarus t h h a e v  e m a o l s w t a i y n s e  x c p o li n c s a id bl e y r  e u d n  i t q h u e e i  r p t l o a w ce n s t  o o b n e e o ar n t e h  , o b f ut nd nasde P h ol l a rNet r h e a a b l i i t z u e a i l t l  y    a h s a s v u e m a e w t o h k a e t n o t u o t  s t i h d e e  r r s e  a a li r z e a t ti o o o n   s t Ukraine m hcez lgiu ny Be e C rmaG new breed of foreigner actually thinks Split Republic as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split Austria have to try too hard to impress. For dedica rland ina wStiez Romani veloS a urban nomads its a dream city of shore-si Croatia Italy osnia n b c i a a g c s h t k t   - o o a f l  u l l t e o  y c  a b l a s  r  l f s f o , e  r l  a o w n n h d g  o  a c m  a v  i t v h a e c  i a o r u t s o , f d h r a e v s i s n e g d a -t Bulairag Sreib B a is a i lling. noMorgenet Kosovo This season is filled with musical concerts FYR Macedonia parties including- Ultra Europe Festival, a Sustipan Albania Nights Dream, the Croatia Reggae Festival... As Greece ishes and fl  a y v o o u u r r  s ide-toVilniu- t  I in t s m w i h t e o a e l t l u , s   t  c d h i a  n o  n w n C   a r b t t  o e e  m a r f t i i o i s n a u s g  n   a f o d n o  u r d a t    t d t  o t h a n h e y   e t s b  h . e m e L  s e a l t o r a  k c d rn e a e  l t  s  a d t a l i l n n a d a b  ti o w o i u l n l t   s h c f a a o v r m e a p  i c n o g z  y I w Y t o s ih u c r h  t P i o m c e k  e w t ehavegrown g t u o  bhtemocesegrale ubln t  publisher of locally produced city guides in Eu- camping excursion with your family and friends.  rope. We now cover more than75 across cities A M l a s k o, a  r d s o k n a t   R m iv i i s e s r  a o , u n t e o a n r  b vi y s  i S ti p n li g t  . th M e a c k h e a s r u m r i e n t g h  is thecontinent(withTbilisi, inGeorgia, the latest city to bepocketed) and the number of concise, summer is an unforgettable one!  witty, well-written and downright indispensableIn Your Pocketguides published each year is app- QR Code roachingfive million. We also publish aniPhone This QR code contains the website app, including more than 40 guides, which can be address, i p a :tthopruoyni.www// n c Y k o e u t r .  downloaded for free from theAppStore. Search for P c o o c m ke / t c : r a o n a d t  a / u s s p e l r i  t aacamer tiISlpfro ahgniv IYP Guides by name. s p o h f o t n w e a  r e e q c ui a p n p s e c d a w n i  t t h h  i t s h i e m c a o g rr e e o c f t   t r h e e a  d Q e R r    keep up to date with all thats new at ToIn Your Code causing the phones browser to Pocket,likeus onFacebook (facebook.com/ d l U a R u L n . c S h a a v n e d t r h e e d i ir m e a c g t e t  o a t n h d e   p p r r in o t g it r  a ou m t m a e ny inyourpocket) or follow us onTwitter(twitter.com/ way you want. inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice EditorVinja Arambaić Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra Assistant EditorKristina timac 1992 - 2013. Maps copyright of the E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S ContributorsFrank Jelinčić, Renata rvserespNo.edA.rehpathgirll ionicatbermayfot rat uplbihsorpeecudd racrgot Split In Your Pocket Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell, in any form, except brief extracts for D k  ovićeva 66  Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson- the purpose of review, without written Marinović, Jelena Počedić ra ResearcherAnita Marinić, Blanka Valić permission from the publisher and t Z e a l. g + r ( e 3 b, 8  5 C - r 1 o ) a  t 4 ia 813027,4811070 Layout & DesignKreimir porčić, c Y o o p u y r ri P g o h c t k o e w t ednarmanTr.bhene cineesudnrelisused I f n r  om 3 Gordan Karabogdan, Maja Knezić z fa a x g  r + e ( b@ 8 i 5 n - y 1 o ) u 4 rp 9 o 2 c 3 k 9 e  t 2 .c 4 om Photos Adriatic photo service, Split In V U il A ni B u  s I , n   Li Y t o h u u r a P ni o a c . ket(Bernardinu g. 9-4, www.inyourpocket.com Your Pocket team, TZ Split, Luka Nietić Editor n Photography, Antonio Mie Photography, s ote I © S  S Pl N a  v 1 a 8 P 4 o 6 n - i 8 s 5 tr 6 a X d.o.o. Vedran Cvitković The editorial content ofIn Your Pocket Sales & Circulationguides is independent from paid-for General ManagerVinja Arambaić advertising. Sponsored listings are  l Printed by: Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Sales & Circulation Manager eradremeomcsdnastnitse arkelymsucdaseew.hWelaclmocrael .snoC Ar o c v h e i r v : e  s MakarskaTouristBoard Kristijan Vukičević oneu g s g e u r s foeftrteveyerevahdameW Kreimir Grgić the accuracy of the information at the [e-mail] time of going to press and assume no Accounting management:Mi-ni d.o.o responsibility for changes and errors.

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ARRIVING IN SPLIT 5

By boat By plane Splits ferry port isnt a bad place to make the transition Splits airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people policemen strolling around, dont be disturbed: those are at theinformation desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. just the customs officers that work at the office located in Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a the port.The toiletnear the back of port operates aroundtoilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be the clock.Changing currency:There are at least four ATMs found by heading upstairs from the main hall.Changing spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Splitcurrency: Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an Splitska Tours operates an exchange office during their working exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the hours.Calling home: hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall.There are two public phones inside mainCalling the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kioskshome: can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna You that line the street directly outside the station.Getting todalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are town:Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to stop, with service to several points around town. Check the the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the mens and womens toilets. street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and youllGetting to town:If you prefer to go by car, there are a reach the old town in about five minutes. number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. By bus tropriatrytihobtuekathefromtesminu prsoevij a oz poirbtr.suixaTats icesaretaxi,pbuilcubsroPelthO,esiwreohcruoy Splits bus station is fairly small but has everything you need  and shouldnt cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus to make arriving relatively painless.A toilet s73spotoNrofontusjintunim i etewt-ytnorrpattt  hfaie tihtr-yadsyadnonweekntervalsnolsvaerntitenumi -000:0enop( 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the  weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. Thedomestic ticket window antwadai fo t e t f h s t r seertesoprijevozbuse   t e  t a s n p t o w t e  f e o h y e - r  . u l r P ahettotalivrrca nurs gnidrocdropandatyouofmisethslfgithe hour service and theinformation desk  bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn. operates from  main 00:00 - 24:00.Theinternational ticket office operates  06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals By train and departures.Left luggage train station has very few amenities, save for the coin-: A left luggage point (open The 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of operatedstorage lockersthat can be accessed during the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per the stations working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn.  lockers have instructions in English.Getting to town:As Getting to town:on the same side of the street, theAs its  on the same side of the street, the directions for getting its directions for getting around are the same as for the train  around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna  eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station. front of the bus station. By car Tourist information From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and youd like to know the Tourist Information Centre D-3, Obala Hrvatskog easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The9, tel. [phone]/narodnog preporoda fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is([phone], [e-mail], to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65w w w.visitsplit.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The 08:00 13:00. - route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres Tourist Information Centre  Peristil bb, tel. J-2, long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving([phone], [e-mail], you of 157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you knoww w w.visitsplit.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun youre getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and 08:00 - 13:00 thats that! Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog From Slovenia preporoda 7, tel. [phone], touristinfo@ Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need tovisitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Q Open 07:30 - do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board  D-3, From Italy Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. [phone] Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, 32/([phone], [e-mail], www. nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway dalmatia.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 Become a fan of Split (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where youll see signs for the  A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit In Your Pocket on labeled Dugopolje. 

split.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2013

6

BASICS

Customs Roads Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be  When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving no longer custom limits between member states or tax  licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the  laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no process and we recommend you to follow info atwww. mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level porezna-uprava.hr. for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on Disabled travellers secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take  leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. i s s h s a t p ill e   a a l n o d o  o s o o n m g e w i a m y p t r o o  v g e o. m  e A n t t t s h  e c  a m n o b m e e s nt e , e a n l , l  p b u ut b  li t c h  e c r a e r   Smoking parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have  Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement- at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping  café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do  it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one  establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access  amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking to most buildings. If youre planning to visit, we suggest you  permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public inquire about your destination in relation to these matters  spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your  to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if arrival as accessible as possible.  youre prepared to move inside. Electricity Visas The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the  EU! Here we come! Since Croatia is becoming a new member United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical  of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa appliances. policy has become fully compliant with the European Union Money visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well  a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a  before visiting Croatia. day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, o b n u  t y n o o u t .  I a f l  l, y  o s u o   r b e e   p s l u a r n e n  i t n o g h a a  v t e ri  p a  r t e o a o s n o e n  a of b  l t e h a e m is o la u n nt d  s o  f i  n c  a t s h h e   Water area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount  Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. t o h f a c t a l s et h   y y o o u u   p t u hi t n it k   o y n o  u p  l ll a  s n t e ic e  d c  o fo ul r d t  h b e e   t a r  i p p r , o a b s l  e fi m n . dingplaces When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly Public Toilets  you should theless,lower than most of Europe. Never The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café  keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of while having a drink on the premises. The best public one,  an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europes wide complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Emergency Number 112which then transfers you to police, Kralja Tomislava(I-2) . ERthe fire department. Depending on the city district, or in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, Basic data neathentotakebeiwlloyuascatthnIn.iotatseciloptser orconsuembassytcyuor ,e c  noatrfolduiginamebnietalhT. ER is located inFirule Hospital inSpinčićeva 1 (E-3) P C o ro p a ul ti a a t  i ( o A n p :  everything necessary will be done. In case of an car where ril 2011): 4,290,612 Split County(April 2011): 455,242  accident callHAK road help 24/7([phone], and as foraccidents on the sea call 195. Split(April 2011): 178,192 Territory:Croatias land territory takes up 56,542km 2 . It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, National holidays Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a January 1New Years Day natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. January 6Epiphany Dalmatian coast:The coast is the main tourist attraction for March 31Easter good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most April 1Easter Monday beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! May 1International Workers' Day Islands:An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, May 30Corpus Christi 47 of them inhabited. June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day Climate: Mediterranean June 25Statehood Day Local time: Croatia is part of the Central  5European AugustVictory and Homeland Time Zonelptiitsi1:200 Dngay fotehtssA hTigivnask nistiSinnoo+TMG(nehw:)1 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in A Oc u t su o g b 1 e 5 r t 8 umption nIedepdnneecDya saeF Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. November 1All Saints Day December 25Christmas www.inyourpocket.com December 26Saint Stephens Day

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Kries (Ethno Ambient Salona Archives) Exhibitions Giovanni Battista Brustoloni. Local artists include, Miljenko 03.05 Friday - 15.10 Tuesday Stančić, Vasilije Jordan, Miroslav utej, and Boris valjek. Pots,PlatesandBowls-Ceramiccollection September 2013 - December 2013 fromEMS  ehPdnteoelpMouThensantaimiHehT-sayala  J-3, Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografski-  J-3, Ethnographic Museum Split, Severova 1, etnografski- [e-mail], www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. [e-mail], www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. This collection of traditional household ceramics will take you  Travelling throughout the remotest regions of Nepal, Tibet, on a unique tour of historic kitchenware. Take a look at some  Pakistan and Afghanistan, Stipe Bozićrecorded hundreds of tradition pottery from the Pannonian Plains and Dinaric Alps of  breathtaking photographs that reveal the daily lives of the Croatia, or some imported ceramics from Puglia, in southern  people who live at some of the highest peaks in the world. Italy. These Italian kitchen utensils were sold to sailors sailing  This exhibition, which includes photos from a pilgrimage along the Adriatic Coast, during the 19th and 20th century,  around the sacred Mount Kailash, as well as the non-inhabited and were used for their daily meals.  areas of Karakorum and Hindu Kush, will leave you breathless. 02.06 Sunday - 12.07 Friday AntiqueMosaicsfromRavenna Special events A-3,Mus e e I u v m a  n o a f  C M r e o  a t t r i o a v n i  ć. l t o i g l o p c s r - e s hMnocilats,umen 8,ma1@m A hauzej 0 S 8 p . il 0 t 6   M S e a d tu ti r e d r a r y a - n 1 e 5 a . n 0 F 6 i  l S m a  t F u e r s d t a i y val etalit hr,www.mhas-split.hr  Love your art! Then see the jigsaw Kinote puzzle put together in forty perfect copy mosaics taken from Bačvice Summer Cinema; ka Zl , a  tna vrata, city basilicas and mausoleums in Ravenna, Italy. These world Dioklecijanova 7, www.fmfs.hr. days Eight of hundreds films, thousands of visitors! See films from the Mediterranean heritage gems have travelled the globe and arrive in Split in  r celebrationofCroatiasentryintotheEU. pr e o g g i r o a n m c m o e m th e at a  l h iv a e s  p w e i o t p h l  e a s  it m ti a n t g i  n o e n e b  e a a n c d h  t b o e w a el c s h   as e  v ti e c n k i e n ts g  15.06 Saturday - 30.06 Sunday up quick smart. Parties under the night sky areare snapped  StampedCity this years added surprise. Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.mgst.net.Herve 1 9 5 t . h 0 P 6 i  c S i a g t i u n r  d W a o y pdCurl Baurel will present the pieces he created during his time spent with the association KURS, in Split. They will be on display D-3, Bačvice Beach. Picigin y, Ecological Societ Th e from June 15th - 30th, at the Split City Museum. Afterwards,  Bačvice, is organizing the ninth annual Picigin World Cup. the exhibition will be brought to Zagreb.  Along with this sporting event, musical performances by 20.06 Thursday - 20.08 Tuesday Rebatajica, Sv. Florian and Brodosplit will take place. The TheBeautyofGraphicArtExhibition,Varadin take place on June 15, 2013, startingChampionship finale will CityMuseum sebasla nad  gnicndaarphuacjtemuipgn. enafero.0B010:atlliwereht,reninwhetngciunno J-2, Emanuel VidovićGallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, 15.06 Saturday - 27.06 Thursday www.mgst.net. This exhibition includes selected pieces from the collection of paintings, sculptures and drawings of Alavitsefrestfoernteetresatni artists, from the Varadin City Museum, which were designed  a Ri c v ro a, b  a M ts ar m m u o s n i t ci o a v n a s , .  .. P a er n i d s  ti m l, a  n V y o  ć m n o i r t e r  g a . ote C t l s  re elgg,  s t r a s  n e w l o z uj z  a , d usingavarietyoftechniquesincludingetching,engraving theinter , n  ationalfestivalofstreetentertainersinSplit!Two and lithography. They were created between the 17th - 20th centurybyprominentlocalCroatianandEuropeanartists, s w e e e e n k  s a  t o  f t f h u e n   P a e n ri d s  t e il x , ci a t n e d m  e ot n h t e in r c c l i u t d y i  n lo g c fr a e ti e o c n o s n i c n e c r l t u s d  i c n a g n   t b h e e   such as Cornelius Visscher, a brilliant Dutch etching technician, Johann Elias Ridinger, a German printmaker and Italian master,  Voćni trg, Riva etc.

split.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2013

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