An Australian in China - Being the Narrative of a Quiet Journey Across China to Burma

George Ernest Morrison

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• Publié par: unyio
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 35
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 4 Mo

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Project Gutenberg's An Australian in China, by George Ernest Morrison This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: An Australian in China Being the Narrative of a Quiet Journey Across China to Burma Author: George Ernest Morrison Release Date: September 4, 2006 [EBook #19172] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA *** Produced by Thierry Alberto and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net Transcriber's Note: Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this text. For a complete list, please see the bottom of this document. THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA. AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA BY GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON M.D. EDIN., F.R.G.S. THIRD EDITION LONDON: HORACE COX WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS E.C. MDCCCCII TO JOHN CHIENE, M.D., F.R.C.S.E., F.R.S.E., ETC., PROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH, WHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION. I GRATEFULLY INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY—MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW CHAPTER II. FROM HANKOW TO WANHSIEN, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF CHINESE WOMEN AND THE RAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE CHAPTER III. THE CITY OF WANHSIEN, AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN TO CHUNGKING CHAPTER IV. THE CITY OF CHUNGKING—THE CHINESE CUSTOMS—THE FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS, AND A FEW WORDS ON THE OPIUM FALLACY CHAPTER V. THE JOURNEY FROM CHUNGKING TO SUIFU—CHINESE INNS CHAPTER VI. THE CITY OF SUIFU—THE CHINA INLAND MISSION, WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS ABOUT MISSIONARIES IN CHINA CHAPTER VII. SUIFU TO C HAOTONG, WITH SOME R EMARKS ON THE P ROVINCE OF Y UNNAN—C HINESE P ORTERS, P OSTAL ARRANGEMENTS, AND BANKS CHAPTER VIII. THE CITY OF CHAOTONG, WITH SOME R EMARKS ON ITS P OVERTY, NFANTICIDE, S I ELLING F EMALE C HILDREN INTO SLAVERY, TORTURES, AND THE CHINESE INSENSIBILITY TO PAIN CHAPTER IX. MAINLY ABOUT CHINESE DOCTORS CHAPTER X. THE JOURNEY FROM CHAOTONG TO TONGCHUAN CHAPTER XI. THE CITY OF TONGCHUAN, WITH SOME REMARKS UPON INFANTICIDE 125-134 115-124 107-114 97-106 76-96 [Pg viii] PAGES 1-11 [Pg vii] 12-23 24-34 35-49 50-62 63-75 CHAPTER XII. TONGCHUAN TO YUNNAN CITY CHAPTER XIII. AT YUNNAN CITY CHAPTER XIV. GOLD, BANKS, AND TELEGRAPHS IN YUNNAN CHAPTER XV. THE FRENCH MISSION AND THE ARSENAL IN YUNNAN CITY CHAPTER XVI. THE JOURNEY FROM YUNNAN CITY TO TALIFU CHAPTER XVII. THE CITY OF TALI—PRISONS—POISONING—PLAGUES AND MISSIONS CHAPTER XVIII. THE JOURNEY FROM T , WITH SOME R ALI EMARKS ON THE CHARACTER OF THE CANTONESE, CHINESE E MIGRANTS, CRETINS, AND WIFE-BEATING IN CHINA CHAPTER XIX. THE MEKONG AND SALWEEN RIVERS—HOW TO TRAVEL IN CHINA CHAPTER XX. THE CITY OF TENGYUEH—THE CELEBRATED WUNTHO SAWBWA—SHAN SOLDIERS CHAPTER XXI. THE SHAN TOWN OF SANTA, AND MANYUEN, THE SCENE OF CONSUL MARGARY'S MURDER CHAPTER XXII. CHINA AS A FIGHTING POWER—THE KACHINS—AND THE LAST STAGE INTO BHAMO CHAPTER XXIII. BHAMO, MANDALAY, RANGOON, AND CALCUTTA 282-291 [Pg x] 135-147 148-157 158-170 171-182 183-201 202-217 218-232 [Pg ix] 233-243 244-259 260-269 270-281 ILLUSTRATIONS. [Pg xi] Mostly from Photographs by MR. C. JENSEN of the Imperial Chinese Telegraphs . THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE PASSPORT ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN CHUNGKING, FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE YANGTSE A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU Frontispiece. page 8 14 34 34 38 44 52 CULTIVATION IN TERRACES SCENE IN SZECHUEN OPIUM-SMOKING A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN LAOWATAN THE OPIUM-SMOKER OF ROMANCE PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE, WESTERN CHINA THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY, 250 FEET HIGH THE VICEROY OF TWO PROVINCES THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE NAME THE GIANT OF YUNNAN THE "EAGLE NEST BARRIER," ON THE ROAD TO TALIFU SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU MEMORIAL IN A TEMPLE NEAR TALIFU THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE THE RIVER SALWEEN THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA 58 58 72 84 84 93 118 146 156 168 174 180 182 184 192 204 220 232 236 240 242 250 292 [Pg xii] at end. AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY—MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW. In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan. It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and then, dressed as a Chinese, to cross quietly over Western China, the Chinese Shan States, and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma. The ensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey, which a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable undertaking, can now be done. [Pg 1] The journey was, of course, in no sense one of exploration; it consisted simply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River, followed by a quiet, though extended, excursion of another 1500 miles along the great overland highway into Burma, taken by one who spoke no Chinese, who had no interpreter or companion, who was unarmed, but who trusted implicitly in the good faith of the Chinese. Anyone in the world can cross over to Burma in the way I did, provided he be willing to exercise for a certain number of weeks or months some endurance—for he will have to travel many miles on foot over a mountainous country—and much [Pg 2] forbearance. I went to China possessed with the strong racial antipathy to the Chinese common to my countrymen, but that feeling has long since given way to one of lively sympathy and gratitude, and I shall always look back with pleasure to this journey, during which I experienced, while traversing provinces as wide as European kingdoms, uniform kindness and hospitality, and the most charming courtesy. In my case, at least, the Chinese did not forget their precept, "deal gently with strangers from afar." I left Shanghai on Sunday, February 11th, by the Jardine Matheson's steamer Taiwo. One kind friend, a merchant captain who had seen life in every important seaport in the world, came down, though it was past midnight, to bid me farewell. We shook hands on the wharf, and for the last time. Already he had been promised the first vacancy in Jardine Matheson's. Some time after my departure, when I was in Western China, he was appointed one of the officers of the ill-fated Kowshing, and when this unarmed transport before the declaration of war was destroyed by a Japanese gunboat, he was among the slain—struck, I believe, by a Japanese bullet while struggling for