Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory - Volume II.

John M'Lean

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• Publié par: enji
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 21
• Langue: English

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory Volume II. (of 2) Author: John M'lean Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. BY JOHN M‘LEAN. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty. 1849. LONDON: R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. [pg v] CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. CHAPTER I. Journey to Norway House 9 CHAPTER II. Arrival at York Factory—Its Situation—Climate—Natives—Rein-Deer—Voyage to Ungava—Incidents of the Voyage—Arrival at Ungava—Situation and Aspect 16 CHAPTER III. Exploring Expedition through the Interior of Labrador—Difficulties—Deer Hunt—Indian Gluttony—Description of the Country—Provisions run short—Influenza 32 CHAPTER IV. Distressing Bereavement—Exploring Party—their Report—Arrival at Esquimaux—Establish Posts—Pounding Rein-Deer—Expedition up George's River—Its Difficulties—Hamilton River—Discover a stupendous Cataract—Return by George's River to the Sea—Sudden Storm and miraculous Escape 60 [pg vi] CHAPTER V. Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a Raft—Despatch from the Governor—Distress of the Esquimaux—Forward Provisions to Mr. E——. Return of the Party—Their deplorable Condition 81 CHAPTER VI. Trip to Esquimaux Bay—Governor's Instructions—My Report to the Committee—Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement—Success of the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson—Return by Sea to Fort Chimo—Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava River—Impolitic Measure of the Governor—Consequent Distress at the Post 88 CHAPTER VII. A n o th e r exploring Expedition—My Promotion—Winter at Chimo—Obtain permission to visit Britain—Ungava abandoned 98 CHAPTER VIII. GENERAL REMARKS. Climate of Ungava—Aurora Borealis—Soil—Vegetable Productions—Animals—Birds—Fish—Geological Features 102 CHAPTER IX. The Nascopies—Their Religion—Manners Customs—Clothing—Marriage—Community of Goods 118 CHAPTER X. The Esquimaux—Probable Origin—Identity of Language from Labrador to Behring's Straits—Their Amours—Marriages—Religion—Treatment of Parents—Anecdote —Mode of Preserving Meat—Amusements—Dress—The Igloe, or Snow-House—Their Cuisine—Dogs—The Sledge—Caiak, or Canoe—Ouimiàk, or Boat—Implements—Stature 131 CHAPTER XI. Labrador—Esquimaux Half-Breeds—Moravian Inhabitants—Their Virtues—Climate—Anecdote 155 CHAPTER XII. Voyage to England—Arrival at Plymouth—Reflections—Arrive at the place of my Nativity—Changes—Depopulation—London—The Thames—Liverpool—Embark for New York—Arrival—The Americans—English and American Tourists—England and America—New York 167 CHAPTER XIII. Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer—The Passengers—Arrival at Albany—Journey to Montreal 187 CHAPTER XIV. Embark for the North—Passengers Arrive at Fort William—Despatch from Governor—Appointed to McKenzie's River District—Portage La Loche—Adventure on Great Slave Lake—Arrive at Fort Simpson—Productions of the Post 193 CHAPTER XV. Brethren—European and [pg vii] Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library—Alleged Kindness of the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians—And Generosity—Support of Missionaries—Support withdrawn—Preference of Roman Catholics—The North-West Company—Conduct of a British Peer—Rivalry of the Companies—Coalition—Charges against the North-West Company refuted 207 [pg viii] CHAPTER XVI. Arrival of Mr. Lefroy—Voyage to the Lower Posts of the McKenzie—Avalanche—Incidents of the Voyage—Voyage to Portage La Loche—Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor—Despotism—My Reply to the Governor 228 CHAPTER XVII. Situation of Fort Simpson—Climate—The Liard—Effects of the Spring Floods—Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's River District—Peculiarities—Distress through Famine—Cannibalism—Anecdote—Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity of M. Dechambault—Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241 CHAPTER XVIII. Mr. McPherson assumes the Command—I am appointed to Fort Liard, but exchange for Great Slave Lake—The Indians—Resolve to quit the Service—Phenomena of the Lake 255 CHAPTER XIX. Reflections—Prospects in the Service—Decrease of the Game—Company's Policy in consequence—Appeal of the Indians—Means of Preserving them, and improving their Condition—Abolition of the Charter—Objections answered 260 CHAPTER XX. Wesleyan Mission—Mr. Evans—Encouragement given by the Company—Mr. Evans' Exertions among the Indians—Causes of the Withdrawal of the Company's Support—Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.—Mr. E. goes to England—His sudden Death 278 [pg ix] CHAPTER XXI. SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. Red River—Soils—Climate—Productions—Settlement of Red River through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders—Collision between the North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies—Inundation—Its Effects—French Half-Breeds—Buffalo Hunting—English HalfBreeds—Indians—Churches—Schools—Stores—Market for Produce—Communication by Lakes 289 CHAPTER XXII. Sir G. Simpson—His Administration 311 VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL NDIAN D I IALECTS Hudson's Bay Territory 323 [pg 9] in use among the Tribes in the NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. CHAPTER I. JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE. I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing aspect of spring. [pg 10] Mr. F—— was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow—the intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake contributing to the variety of the landscape. Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared. On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which, to my [pg 11] great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring high grounds. On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge, Mr. B—— having set off a few days before for the dépôt at Fort Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against this fare having completely vanished. Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords. They have the character of being honest, quiet, and welldisposed towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground, which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by pure hands. We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we advanced. The track left by Mr. B——'s party was of great service to us. We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had put the blood in circulation by walking. We overtook Mr. B—— on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded horses to make a track. The country through which