Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 1

Dawson Turner

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• Publié par: arke
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 17
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 1 Mo

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Account of a Tour in Normandy, Vol. I. (of 2), by Dawson Turner This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: Account of a Tour in Normandy, Vol. I. (of 2) Author: Dawson Turner Release Date: June 6, 2004 [EBook #12537] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN NORMANDY, VOL. I. *** Produced by Carlo Traverso, David Cavanagh and Distributed Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. Account Of A Tour In Normandy Volume I Dawson Turner LETTERS FROM NORMANDY ADDRESSED TO THE REV. JAMES LAYTON, B.A. OF CATFIELD, NORFOLK. UNDERTAKEN CHIEFLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF INVESTIGATING THE ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES OF THE DUCHY, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON ITS HISTORY, ON THE COUNTRY, AND ON ITS INHABITANTS. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. LONDON: 1820. PREFACE. The observations which form the basis of the following letters, were collected during three successive tours in Normandy, in the summers of 1815, 1818, and 1819; but chiefly in the second of these years. Where I have not depended upon my own remarks, I have endeavored, as far as appeared practicable and without tedious minuteness, to quote my authorities for facts; and I believe that I have done so in most instances, except indeed where I have borrowed from the journals of the companions of my tours,—the nearest and dearest of my connections,—or from that of my friend, Mr. Cohen, who, at almost the same time, travelled through a great part of Normandy, pursuing also very similar objects of inquiry. The materials obtained from these sources, it has been impossible to separate from my own; and, interwoven as they are with the rest of the text, it is only in my power to acknowledge, in these general terms, the assistance which I have thus received.—We were proceeding in 1818, to the southern and western districts of Normandy, when a domestic calamity compelled me to return to England. The tour was consequently abridged, and many places of note remained unvisited by us. My narrative is principally addressed to those readers who find pleasure in the investigation of architectural antiquity. Without the slightest pretensions to the character either of an architect or of an antiquarian, engaged in other avocations and employed in other studies, I am but too conscious of my inability to do justice to the subject. Yet my remarks may at least assist the future traveller, by pointing out such objects as are interesting, either on account of their antiquity or their architectural worth. This information is not to be obtained from the French, who have habitually neglected the investigation of their national monuments. I doubt, however, whether I should have ventured upon publication, if those who have always accompanied me both at home and abroad, had not produced the illustrations which constitute the principal value of my volumes. Of the merits of these illustrations I must not be allowed to speak; but it may be permitted me to observe, that the fine arts afford the only mode of exerting the talents of woman, which does not violate the spirit of the precept which the greatest historian of antiquity has ascribed to the greatest of her heroes— "Της τε γαρ ᾽υπαρχουσης φυσεως μη χειροσι γενεσϑαι, ᾽υμιν μεγαλη ᾽η δοξα, χαι δις αν επ᾽ ελαχιστον αρετης περι η ψογου εν τοις αρσεσι χλεος η." [English. Not in Original: "Great will be your glory in not falling short of your natural character; and greatest will be hers who is least talked of among the men whether for good or for bad." Thucydides' Historiae. (Book 2, Chapter 45, Paragraph 2, Verses 3-5.)] DAWSON TURNER. YARMOUTH, 13th August, 1820. CONTENTS. LETTER I. Arrival at Dieppe—Situation and Appearance of the Town—Costume of the People—Inhabitants of the Suburb of Pollet. LETTER II. Dieppe—Castle—Churches—History of the Place—Feast of the Assumption. LETTER III. Cæsars Camp—Castle of Arques. LETTER IV. Journey from Dieppe to Rouen—Priory of Longueville—Rouen-Bridge of Boats —Costume of the Inhabitants. LETTER V. Journey to Havre—Pays de Caux—St. Vallery—Fécamp—The precious Blood —The Abbey—Tombs in it—Moutivilliers—Harfleur. LETTER VI. Havre—Trade and History of the Town—Eminent Men—Bolbec—Yvetot—Ride to Rouen—French Beggars. LETTER VII. On the State of Affairs in France. LETTER VIII. Military Antiquities—Le Vieux Château—Original Palace of the Norman Dukes —Halles of Rouen—Miracle and Privilege of St. Romain—Château du Vieux Palais—Petit Château—Fort on Mont Ste. Catherine—Priory there—Chapel of St. Michael—Devotee. LETTER IX. Ancient Ecclesiastical Architecture—Churches of St. Paul and St. Gervais —Hospital of St. Julien—Churches of Léry, Pavilly, and Yainville. LETTER X. Early Pointed Architecture—Cathedral—Episcopal Palace. LETTER XI. Pointed Ecclesiastical Architecture—Churches of St. Ouen, St. Maclou, St. Patrice, and St. Godard. LETTER XII. Palais de Justice—States, Exchequer, and Parliament of Normandy—Guild of the Conards—Joan of Arc—Fountain and Bas-Relief in the Place de la Pucelle —Tour de la Grosse Horloge—Public Fountains—Rivers Aubette and Robec —Hospitals—Mint. LETTER XIII. Monastic Institutions—Library—Manuscripts—Museum—Academy—Botanic Garden—Theatre—Ancient History—Eminent Men. INDEX. LIST OF PLATES. Plate 01 Head-Dress of Women of the Pays de Caux. Plate 02 Entrance to the Castle at Dieppe. Plate 03 Font in the Church of St. Remi, at Dieppe. Plate 04 Plan of Cæsar's Camp, near Dieppe. Plate 05 General View of the Castle of Arques. Plate 06 Tower of remarkable shape in ditto. Plate 07 Church at Arques. Plate 08 View of Rouen, from the Grand Cours. Plate 09 Tower and Spire of Harfleur Church. Plate 10 Bas-Relief, representing St. Romain. Plate 11 Sculpture, supposed Roman, in the Church of St. Paul, at Rouen. Plate 12 Circular Tower, attached to the Church of St. Ouen, at Rouen. Plate 13 Interior of the Church at Pavilly. Plate 14 Monumental Figure of Rollo, in Rouen Cathedral. Plate 15 Ditto of an Archbishop, in ditto. Plate 16 Monument of ditto. Plate 17 Equestrian Figure of the Seneschal de Brezé, in Rouen Cathedral. Plate 18 Tower of the Church of St. Ouen, at Rouen. Plate 19 South Porch of ditto. Plate 20 Head of Christ, in ditto, seen in profile. Plate 21 Ditto, in ditto, seen in front. Plate 22 Stone Staircase in the Church of St. Maclou, at Rouen. Plate 23 Sculpture, representing the Feast of Fools. Plate 24 Bas-Relief, from the representations of the Champ du Drap d'or. Plate 25 Initial Letter from a MS. of the History of William of Jumieges. LETTERS FROM [Page 1] NORMANDY LETTER I. ARRIVAL AT DIEPPE—SITUATION AND APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN —COSTUME OF THE PEOPLE—INHABITANTS OF THE SUBURB OF POLLET. (Dieppe, June, 1818) MY DEAR SIR, You, who were