In Morocco

Edith Wharton

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The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Morocco, by Edith WhartonThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it,give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online atwww.gutenberg.netTitle: In MoroccoAuthor: Edith WhartonRelease Date: February 15, 2004 [eBook #11104]Language: English***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN MOROCCO***E-text prepared by Linda Cantoni and Project Gutenberg Distributed ProofreadersIN MOROCCOBYEDITH WHARTONILLUSTRATED1920[Illustration: From a photograph from the Service des Beaux-Arts auMarocFez Elbah from the ramparts][Illustration]TO GENERAL LYAUTEYRESIDENT GENERAL OF FRANCE IN MOROCCO AND TO MADAME LYAUTEYTHANKS TO WHOSE KINDNESS THE JOURNEY I HAD SO LONG DREAMED OF SURPASSED WHAT I HAD DREAMEDPREFACEIHaving begun my book with the statement that Morocco still lacks a guide-book, I should have wished to take a first steptoward remedying that deficiency.But the conditions in which I travelled, though full of unexpected and picturesque opportunities, were not suited to leisurelystudy of the places visited. The time was limited by the approach of the rainy season, which puts an end to motoring overthe treacherous trails of the Spanish zone. In 1918, owing to the watchfulness of German submarines in the Straits andalong the northwest coast of Africa, the trip by sea from Marseilles to Casablanca, ...

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• Publié par: astau
• Publié le: 01 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 24
• Langue: English

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Title: In Morocco Author: Edith Wharton Release Date: February 15, 2004 [eBook #11104] Language: English

***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN MOROCCO***

IN MOROCCO BY EDITH WHARTON ILLUSTRATED 1920

TO GENERAL LYAUTEY RESIDENT GENERAL OF FRANCE IN MOROCCO AND TO MADAME LYAUTEY THANKS TO WHOSE KINDNESS THE JOURNEY I HAD SO LONG DREAMED OF SURPASSED WHAT I HAD DREAMED

[Illustration]

[Illustration: From a photograph from the Service des Beaux-Arts au Maroc Fez Elbah from the ramparts]

E-text prepared by Linda Cantoni and Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders

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PREFACE

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net

s anraitnoz I .eapS hsinofs he t tusilrahcufnlset ehw taowing ton 1918, 

thg onalhwrtnoe  theica,p by triocsase tA rf tfo  osstif ant lod  no raob .emecnOe withou to be madsiocfmro tumhcd   slyrinadior, ca ton saw ,ysae orseim Ma fro sealbnaaCast  ollse rehtrofeof ena rony boe d un abyotl na)df ros xi or eight days;  pek netfrop ni thoit(wt  e avle ut ets dht,rp aeemngerassere os we evbmrer  eht eoNer beforat Tangib eb kcadna  ot uncoy,trcr as osvale ortyrt seas s nec t wae, i wersrekrow-raw tsoms  at,milie-im t e Atlantic to Fez al,sa dnf or mhtton he tig HAth  ehtideMrretaenaorocit Mrom co fhwcii  nv si hot olyone thon mneihT .snia m tfel s est thine next b cilu.t hT oi nidff il maritpear at,nnijc s'ot gD a eversal ispomy da  tw saot,r yomims ontidion carw tub ;gninrom y eherb ee n ajDni, and even had t yrr ,em ehttlums n'rpca tetcao no sseisvideereccityipliimpr of   esicerptavresbo  hldou wdemae av rracwa yelbi ot itinane  aayef ddei pmer dedatli ese draw ssion. Th erom erew skcab tbyt seff oantho  fategvdnaeha ick y qung mmaki sepo es d rictrontia ,st dnw eh hsito use the minimmuo  feprtloo tfodto sene thn  it fo yawnoces ehsit d vih alwhicamekno e opss  sti ths  iitn he wuroh gnihcaorppa tse fad th, anritytuohnaa orep ouE n eravtrofs od mucsieiti dnamorpalities  the ban nota llornwo ep ht ;yrtn feirb e  orytois ou che f t uq eu inehh nit  at tripmenta mo  etejbusitcet noir valtu clyplomitnob teewnei stmoment of transi  lsaarevgnt psiriter Medn as soo eht fo eno tcarf  omseatr sinmat ah thtem.dN wo over, on e war is  essaregnenarp nas  isurera ticff ifuleauto ri, to nalhci pa edncsocor . M el tos  icouoiruc ob oot ,stoo much of a noevtl,yn tot  a o tt d ancharecitretuna ,ba d evo lla f thte ocesse in t ehs wa s ip .m nIsere phencre Fntoffe tnat fo str ain see Moulay Iye eiwlle ev rgaMad akrrh ec Iassirdna seF dna z dno ;"a irmst"uo of rent torreat  on ,esool tel s e i ugel datthe ncr aosda w ro kno months'ly a fewt mog ehi edrf ts ayvidi rndlwai oc eht hon yrtnuucodprw t us mestibanivenasiylv th th wipprohe a oruEnaepdab sat , tee thprimsiesnoo  fymtsre ynad remoteness whic nar hed an, ryjuni dna stra evitm th froriesdusto  fitnorrpu eoc rastontiadh nimievreeht  ot serpuments o old mon orfmo ni  foMorcc th; ree temoff aaicico napucnoitf Roman and Phen lrfse hrtcaseo wis ontieaev rllyad -ot s avacxE . er tvellit ihan  eotislbt art ehsel iv seb lraf stpail w tutt haorcc,ob tso  foMf the pa known oeb lliw erom rafs aryew fe  ainth "iWek.tT ciluraCirche "of tach  fom deaivelal fie, of a life cont gniedam t ,es ehantr sgeviurl vausccse eevd seisveriiscore bes ae dna der etadicul, ut bd,the ilwh the Sousture of ebe pxol,sw li le int arByn ntzahcraceti dna ehtgdadn Batwee, bewtee ,ebF zea dn n eetwbes ieitin srebreB dna stpoC .aytnels ylelotwa n aS hidale ,n nevthwihe tre g datmeoparyrw ti hhte crusaders, witon hcihwsteerg w toase th tedshni fot ya slapiehC  of hatead, Bagd t  astla, arlltiym eretseve ht n, will gravellerd sipaeparudlayl th edldfoe av hll is dna stnet rie onesocth autious siwtAalht eo  f

Authoritative utterances on Morocco are not wanting for those who can read them in French, but they are to be found mainly in large and often inaccessible books, like M. Doutté's "En Tribu," the Marquis de Segonzac's remarkable explorations in the Atlas, or Foucauld's classic (but unobtainable) "Reconnaissance au Maroc", and few, if any, have been translated into English. M. Louis Châtelain has dealt with the Roman ruins of Volubilis and M. Tranchant de Lunel, M. Raymond Koechlin, M. Gaillard, M. Ricard, and many other French scholars, have written of Moslem architecture and art in articles published either in "France-Maroc," as introductions to catalogues of exhibitions, or in the reviews and daily papers. Pierre Loti and M. André Chevrillon have reflected, with the intensest visual sensibility, the romantic and ruinous Morocco of yesterday, and in the volumes of the "Conférences Marocaines," published by the French government, the experts gathered about the Resident-General have examined the industrial and agricultural Morocco of tomorrow. Lastly, one striking book sums up, with the clearness and consecutiveness of which French scholarship alone possesses the art, the chief things to be said on all these subjects, save that of art and archaeology. This is M. Augustin Bernard's volume, "Le Maroc," the one portable and compact yet full and informing book since Leo Africanus described the bazaars of Fez. But M. Augustin Bernard deals only with the ethnology, the social, religious and political history, and the physical properties, of the country; and this, though "a large order," leaves out the visual and picturesque side, except in so far as the book touches on the always picturesque life of the people. For the use, therefore, of the happy wanderers who may be planning a Moroccan journey, I have added to the record of my personal impressions a slight sketch of the history and art of the country. In extenuation of the attempt I must add that the chief merit of this sketch will be its absence of originality. Its facts will be chiefly drawn from the pages of M. Augustin Bernard, M. H. Saladin, and M. Gaston Migeon, and the rich sources of the "Conférences Marocaines" and the articles of "France-Maroc." It will also be deeply indebted to information given on the spot by the brilliant specialists of the French administration, to the Marquis de Segonzac, with whom I had the good luck to travel from Rabat to Marrakech and back; to M. Alfred de Tarde, editor of "France-Maroc"; to M. Tranchant de Lunel, director of the French School of Fine Arts in Morocco; to M. Goulven, the historian of Portuguese Mazagan, to M. Louis Châtelain, and to the many other cultivated and cordial French officials, military and civilian, who, at each stage of my journey, did their amiable best to answer my questions and open my eyes.

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