Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia : from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845

Ludwig Leichhardt

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• Publié par: thowyang
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 74
• Langue: English

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia, by Ludwig Leichhardt This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia Author: Ludwig Leichhardt Release Date: September 25, 2004 [EBook #5005] Language: English Character set encoding: ASCII *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA *** Produced by Col Choat [e-mail] JOURNAL OF AN OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA: FROM MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON, A DISTANCE OF UPWARDS OF 3000 MILES, DURING THE YEARS 1844-1845 byLUDWIG LEICHHARDT (1813-1848) "Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde" GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris. * * * * * To WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol; To ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY And to THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated, By The Author Lagoon near South Alligator River PREFACE In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track. To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention with which he listened to the details of my journey. From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give. I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough to take in the success of my approaching enterprise. LUDWIG LEICHIHARDT. SYDNEY, September 29th, 1846. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION CHAPTER I LEAVE THE LAST STATION FOSSIL REMAINSDARLING DOWNS ENTER THE WILDERNESS WATERLOO PLAINS THE CONDAMINE HEAVY RAINS CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT MURPHY AND CALEB LOST KENT'S LAGOON COAL MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN. CHAPTER II PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES NATIVE TOMB THE DAWSON VERVAIN PLAINS GILBERT'S RANGE LYND'S RANGE ROBINSON'S CREEK MURPHY'S LAKE MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY EXPEDITION RANGE MOUNT NICHOLSON ALDIS'S PEAK THE BOYD. CHAPTER III RUINED CASTLE CREEK ZAMIA CREEK BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE CHRISTMAS RANGES BROWN'S LAGOONS THUNDER-STORMS ALBINIA DOWNS COMET CREEK NATIVE CAMP. CHAPTER IV SWARMS OF COCKATOOS ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED NATIVE FAMILY THE MACKENZIE COAL NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM MOUNT STEWART BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY NEUMAN'S CREEK ROPER'S PEAK CALVERT'S PEAK GILBERT'S DOME GREAT WANT OF WATER. CHAPTER V DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN HUGHS'S CREEK TOMBSTONE CREEK CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY THE ISAACS NATIVE WOMEN COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES BROWN FOLLOWS HIMBOTH RETURN PENITENT VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER SKULL OF NATIVE FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP. CHAPTER VI HEADS OF THE ISAACS THE SUTTOR FLINT-ROCK INDICATIONS OF WATER DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US EASTER SUNDAY ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN A BARTER WITH THEM MOUNT M'CONNEL. CHAPTER VII THE BURDEKIN TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS THACKER'S RANGE WILD FIGS GEOLOGICAL REMARKS THE CLARKE THE PERRY. CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL NIGHT WATCH ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY MOUNT LANG STREAMS OF LAVA A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN NATIVE TRIBE MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT WHITSUNDAY BIG ANT HILL CREEK DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS FRIENDLY NATIVES SEPARATION CREEK THE LYND PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS NATIVE CAMP SALT EXHAUSTED. CHAPTER IX THE STARRY HEAVENS SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE SAWFISH TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES THE MITCHELL MURPHY'S PONY POISONED GREEN TREE-ANT NEW BEVERAGE CROCODILE AUDACITY OF KITES NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED. CHAPTER X INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA THE STAATEN A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP THE VAN DIEMEN THE GILBERTSINGULAR NATIVE HUTS CARON RIVER FRIENDLY NATIVES THE YAPPAR MR. CALVERT RECOVERED MODE OF ENCAMPMENT SWARMS OF FLIES ABUNDANCE OF SALT NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT. CHAPTER XI SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES NATIVE CARVING AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING EMUS BEAMES'S BROOK THE NICHOLSON RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT SMITH'S CREEK THE MARLOW. CHAPTER XII HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP TURNER'S CREEK WENTWORTH'S CREEK JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN THE VAN ALPHEN IMPORTANCE OF TEA CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION CHOICE OF A DOG THE CALVERT THE ABEL TASMAN GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS SEVEN EMU RIVER CROCODILE THE ROBINSON SHOAL OF PORPOISES NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES SUCCEED IN DRESSING THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA THE MACARTHUR FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH CIRCUMCISED NATIVES STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED MEDICAL PROPERTY OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED. CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL HISTORY LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER HABITS OF WATER BIRDS NATIVE FISH TRAP THE FOUR ARCHERS THE WICKHAM THE DOG DIES IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE THE ROPER THREE HORSES DROWNED OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL COLLECTION MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES, CIRCUMCISED HODGSON'S CREEK THE WILTON ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLEAN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED BOILS BASALT AGAIN INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEEDS OF AN ACACIA. CHAPTER XIV INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE DISTRESSING HEAT A HORSE STAKED: IT DIES MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES MAGNIFICENT VALLEY FRIENDLY NATIVES SHOT EXHAUSTED INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS THEIR LANGUAGE MIRAGE. CHAPTER XV JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH THEY ARE VERY FRIENDLY ALLAMURR DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY EAST ALLIGATOR RIVER CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT NYUALL BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US MOUNT MORRIS BAY RAFFLES BAY LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND BILL WHITE ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON VOYAGE TO SYDNEY. APPENDIX LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL * * * * * LIST OF PLATES Lagoon near South Alligator River Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown" Dried-beef Creek Camp Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, etc. Peak Range Red Mountain Fletcher's Awl, etc. Campbell's Peak Mount M'Connel Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp at the Burdekin Robey's Range GrasshopperRanges from the camp at the Burdekin View near South Alligator River Victoria Square, Port Essington INTRODUCTION ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION PARTY FORMED LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE PARTY ENLARGED OUTFIT AND STORES. On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000 pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Thomas Mitchell, to accomplish this highly interesting object. Some delay was, however, caused by the necessity of communicating with the Secretary of State for the Colonies; and in the mean time it was understood that Captain Sturt was preparing to start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent. From the experience which I had gained during my two years' journeyings, both in surmounting the difficulties of travelling through a broken mountainous country, and in enduring privations of every sort, "I was inspired with the desire of attempting it," provided I could be assisted in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and could find a few companions who would be contented with animal food, and willingly and patiently submit to the privation of flour, tea, and sugar, and resign themselves to my guidance. I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and had discussed it with many of my acquaintances at Brisbane and its neighbouring district; who were generally of opinion that it was practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others, particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly meant opposition to my journey. Some, who took more than a common interest in my pursuits, regretted that I should leave so