Seven English Cities

William Dean Howells

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Seven English Cities, by W. D. Howells #58 in our series by W. D. HowellsCopyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the copyright laws for your country before downloadingor redistributing this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook.This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do notchange or edit the header without written permission.Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of thisfile. Included is important information about your specific rights and restrictions in how the file may be used. You can alsofind out about how to make a donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved.**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts****eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971*******These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****Title: Seven English CitiesAuthor: W. D. HowellsRelease Date: December, 2004 [EBook #7187] [Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] [This file was firstposted on March 24, 2003]Edition: 10Language: English*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SEVEN ENGLISH CITIES ***Produced by Tricia Gilbert, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.SEVEN ENGLISH CITIESbyW. D. HOWELLSIllustrated[Illustration: A VIEW OF MONK BAR]* * * * *BOOKS OF TRAVEL AND COMMENT BY ...

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• Publié par: essu
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 42
• Langue: English

Extrait

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SEVEN ENGLISH CITIES ***

Produced by Tricia Gilbert, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.

**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** **eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** *****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****

Title: Seven English Cities Author: W. D. Howells Release Date: December, 2004 [EBook #7187] [Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] [This file was first posted on March 24, 2003] Edition: 10 Language: English

SEVEN ENGLISH CITIES by

W. D. HOWELLS

Illustrated

[Illustration: A VIEW OF MONK BAR]

* * * * *     

BOOKS OF TRAVEL AND COMMENT BY WILLIAM DEAN HOWELLS

ROMAN HOLIDAYS…………………………. net $3.00  Traveller's Edition…………………. net 3.00 CERTAIN DELIGHTFUL ENGLISH TOWNS, Ill'd…… net 3.00  Traveller's Edition…………………. net 3.00 LONDON FILMS. Illustrated……………….. net 2.25  Traveller's Edition…………………. net 2.25

A LITTLESWISS SOJOURN………………….. .50

MY YEAR IN A LOG CABIN. Illustrated………. .50

CRITICISM AND FICTION…………………… 1.00

HEROINES OF FICTION. Illustrated…………. net 3.75

IMPRESSIONS AND EXPERIENCES……………… 1.50

LITERARY FRIENDS AND ACQUAINTANCE. Ill'd….. 2.50 LITERATURE AND LIFE…………………….. net 2.25 MODERN ITALIAN POETS. Illustrated………… 2.00

MYLITERARYPASSIONS……………………. 1.75

STOPS OF VARIOUS QUILLS…………………. 2.50  Limited Edition……………………. 15.00

* * * * *     

CONTENTS

A MODEST LIKING FOR LIVERPOOL SOME MERITS OF MANCHESTER IN SMOKIEST SHEFFIELD NINE DAYS' WONDER IN YORK TWO YORKISH EPISODES A DAY AT DONCASTER AND AN HOUR OUT OF DURHAM THE MOTHER OF THE AMERICAN ATHENS ABERYSTWYTH, A WELSH WATERING-PLACE LLANDUDNO, ANOTHER WELSH WATERING-PLACE GLIMPSES OF ENGLISH CHARACTER

    * * * * *

ILLUSTRATIONS

A VIEW OF MONK BAR ST. GEORGE'S HALL, LIVERPOOL THE WELLINGTON MONUMENT, LIVERPOOL THE LIVERPOOL DOCKS MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL TOWN HALL, MANCHESTER THE MANCHESTER SHIP- CANAL TOWN HALL, SHEFFIELD YORK MINSTER—THE GRANDEST IN ALL ENGLAND BOOTHAM BAR AND THE MINSTER WALMGATE BAR HAS A BARBICAN ST. MARY'S ABBEY CLIFFORD'S TOWER YORK AS SEEN FROM THE RIVER DURHAM CATHEDRAL—NORTHWEST VIEW FINCHALE PRIORY DURHAM CATHEDRAL—ITS MATCHLESS SEAT ON THE BLUFFS OF THE RIVER THE "STUMP" OF ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH AGAINST THE SKY THE WORTHY ANCESTRESS OF FANEUIL HALL AND QUINCY MARKET- PLACES THE RIVER AT EVENING LIFTING ITS TOWER FROM THE BRINK OF THE WITHAM FISHING-SHIPS AT GREAT GRIMSBY THE BEACH, ABERYSTWYTH ABERYSTWYTH FROM CRAIG GLAS ROCKS LLANDUDNO—THE CITY AND HARBOR LLANDUDNO FROM GREAT ORME'S NECK THE GREAT PIER, LLANDUDNO CONWAY CASTLE PLAS MAWR A PRESENTATION AT COURT THE ENGLISH HOUSEMAID LEADS A LIFE OF GAYETY ON THE SANDS

    * * * * *

n; this doubly stasiifdeu  ssac   oade ncenben  iartSroft no -d ovA- rtoninkeecti DetegcnevA dnh ,ya agicCht he tino  yolpme P eht fo ht eopupirhsi  nf Liverplation oavercnel rg a p tae  ash Indofe el W dns ,ea n malehs to fiedestihe tciremA detavitlu W aad hhe Ss.an  tondnif.ti  eW s eratthe  wd disan  oaflu tfoh Crosby, and it w a sredaselttiL tofh rchuru Che ttnu  eesa c  sot besool;, shides he tnt ioostatd .det tI  ew irem much asquite asih saw s,da dnt mena isy sbro ClettiL hcihw rof sossed cry ol mant eh efo dnoofnu I ht a detcejer ew, getaot cedchatet,au  sirgnfoef hougwe t ause becdne  fo tA II eht in-l we,e thamtrenecssraeherw  eounted, ily dism re e thtv reewer now not tha say a ,)foorpecca dn  tinn miawtr shedea dnt ooc toatht it too thatch euroht( hguod I tgebeo ui q tte o ken whwomaind ehk htt  eiwh mo  aerthro b aad hehs esuaceb ti tp pastry-ity of aohpstilaet dht eor mate ltfehe t.poh eW koocs s' ofn he tseerioct ni tahwrts steethe frag seemed  v lialeg emtn foa  istlot yet no, o wam tsav eht nand ty, e cif th lht dlalaemtic is eelpmien obhgoorh sd,tho  wat eas todnwa  ttis

Why should the proud stomach of American travel, much tossed in the transatlantic voyage, so instantly have itself carried from Liverpool to any point where trains will convey it? Liverpool is most worthy to be seen and known, and no one who looks up from the bacon and eggs of his first hotel breakfast after landing, and finds himself confronted by the coal- smoked Greek architecture of St. George's Hall, can deny that it is of a singularly noble presence. The city has moments of failing in the promise of this classic edifice, but every now and then it reverts to it, and reminds the traveller that he is in a great modern metropolis of commerce by many other noble edifices.

I Liverpool does not remind him of this so much as the good and true Baedeker professes, in the dockside run on the overhead railway (as the place unambitiously calls its elevated road); but then, as I noted in my account of Southampton, docks have a fancy of taking themselves in, and eluding the tourist eye, and even when they "flank the Mersey for a distance of 6-7 M." they do not respond to American curiosity so frankly as could be wished. They are like other English things in that, however, and it must be said for them that when apparent they are sometimes unimpressive. From my own note-book, indeed, I find that I pretended to think them "wonderful and almost endless," and so I dare say they are. But they formed only a very perfunctory interest of our day at Liverpool, where we had come to meet, not to take, a steamer. Our run from London, in the heart of June, was very quick and pleasant, through a neat country and many tidy towns. In the meadows the elms seemed to droop like our own rather than to hold themselves oakenly upright like the English; the cattle stood about in the yellow buttercups, knee-deep, white American daisies, and red clover, and among the sheep we had our choice of shorn and unshorn; they were equally abundant. Some of the blossomy May was left yet on the hawthorns, and over all the sky hovered, with pale-white clouds in pale-blue spaces of air like an inverted lake of bonnyclabber. We stopped the night at Chester, and the next evening, in the full daylight of 7.40, we pushed on to Liverpool, over lovely levels, with a ground swell like that of Kansas plains, under a sunset drying its tears and at last radiantly smiling.

II The hotel in Liverpool swarmed and buzzed with busy and murmurous American arrivals. One could hardly get at the office window, on account of them, to plead for a room. A dense group of our countrywomen were buying picture-postals of the rather suave office-ladies, and helplessly fawning on them in the inept confidences of American women with all persons in official or servile attendance. "Let me stay here," one of them entreated, "because there's such a draught at the other window. May I?" She was a gentle child of forty-five or fifty; and I do not know whether she was allowed to stay in the sheltered nook or not, tender creature. As she was in every one else's way there, possibly she was harshly driven into the flaw at the other window. [Illustration: ST. GEORGE'S HALL, LIVERPOOL] The place was a little America which swelled into a larger with the arrivals of the successive steamers, though the soft swift English trains bore our co-nationals away as rapidly as they could. Many familiar accents remained till the morning, and the breakfast-room was full of a nasal resonance which would have made one at home anywhere in our East or West. I, who was then vainly trying to be English, escaped to the congenial top of the farthest bound tram, and flew, at the rate of four miles an hour, to the uttermost suburbs of Liverpool, whither no rumor of my native speech could penetrate. It was some balm to my wounded pride of country to note how pale and small the average type of the local people was. The poorer classes swarmed along a great part of the tram-line in side streets of a hard, stony look, and what characterized itself to me as a sort of iron squalor seemed to prevail. You cannot anywhere have great prosperity without great adversity, just as you cannot have day without night, and the more Liverpool evidently flourished the more it plainly languished. I found no pleasure in the paradox, and I was not overjoyed by the inevitable ugliness of the brick villas of the suburbs into which these obdurate streets decayed. But then, after divers tram changes, came the consolation of beautiful riverside beaches, thronged with people who looked gay at that distance, and beyond the Mersey rose the Welsh hills, blue, blue.

EVIL ROFLOOPRDESTA MOING  LIK

al estriies nergr uoaregeh mdnt 

IV

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