The Development of Embroidery in America

Candace Wheeler

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Development of Embroidery in America, by Candace WheelerThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and withalmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away orre-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License includedwith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.orgTitle: The Development of Embroidery in AmericaAuthor: Candace WheelerRelease Date: January 4, 2008 [EBook #24165]Language: English*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBROIDERY IN AMERICA ***Produced by Constanze Hofmann and the Online DistributedProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file wasproduced from images generously made available by TheInternet Archive/American Libraries.)FrontispiecePainted by Dora Wheeler KeithCANDACE WHEELERFrom the painting by her daughter Dora Wheeler Keith.THE DEVELOPMENT OF EMBROIDERY IN AMERICAByCANDACE WHEELERIllustratedPublisher's logoHARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERSNEW YORK AND LONDONMCMXXIDevelopment of Embroidery in AmericaCopyright, 1921, by Harper & BrothersPrinted in the United States of AmericaX-VCONTENTSCHAP. PAGEIntroductory. The Story of the Needle 3I. Beginnings in the New World 10II. The Crewelwork of Our Puritan Mothers 17III. Samplers and a Word About Quilts 48IV. Moravian Work, Portraiture, French Embroidery and Lacework 62V. Berlin Woolwork 96VI. Revival of Embroidery, and the Founding of the Society of Decorative Art 102VII. American ...

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• Publié par: zoil
• Publié le: 08 décembre 2010
• Nombre de lectures: 57
• Langue: English

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Produced by Constanze Hofmann and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

Development of Embroidery in America

HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS NEW YORK AND LONDON MCMXXI

Illustrated Publisher's logo

By CANDACE WHEELER

THE DEVELOPMENT OF EMBROIDERY IN AMERICA

Frontispiece Painted by Dora Wheeler Keith CANDACE WHEELER From the painting by her daughter Dora Wheeler Keith.

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CHAP. I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII.

CONTENTS

Introductory. The Story of the Needle Beginnings in the New World The Crewelwork of Our Puritan Mothers Samplers and a Word About Quilts Moravian Work, Portraiture, French Embroidery and Lacework Berlin Woolwork Revival of Embroidery, and the Founding of the Society of Decorative Art American Tapestry The Bayeux Tapestries

PAGE 3 10 17 48 62 96 102 121 144

LILUSTRATOINS

26

CANDACE WHEELER.From the painting by her daughter Dora Wheeler Keith Frontispiece MOCCASINS OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK.Made by Sioux Indians Facing 12 PIPE BAGS OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK.Made by Sioux Indians 12 MAN'S JACKET OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK.Made by Sioux Indians 14 MAN'S JACKET OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK.Made by Plains Indians 14 CREWEL DESIGN, drawn and colored, which dates back to Colonial times 18 TESTERembroidered in crewels in shades of blue on white homespun linen. Said to have been brought to Essex, Mass., in 1640, by Madam Susanna, wife of Sylvester Eveleth 22 RAISED EMBROIDERY ON BLACK VELVET.Nineteenth century American 22 QUILTED COVERLET 26made by Ann Gurnee HOMESPUN WOOLEN BLANKETwith King George's Crown embroidered with home-dyed blue yarn in the corner. From the Burdette home at Fort Lee, N. J., where Washington was entertained CHEROKEE ROSE BLANKET, made about 1830, of homespun wool with "Indian Rose" design about nineteen inches in diameter worked in the corners in home-dyed yarns of black, red, yellow, and dark green. From the Westervelt collection BED SET, Keturah Baldwin pattern, designed, dyed, and worked by The Deerfield Society of Blue and White Needlework, Deerfield, Mass. BED COVERSworked in candle wicking SAMPLERworked by Adeline Bryant in 1826, now in the possession of Anna D. Trowbridge, Hackensack, N. J. SAMPLERembroidered in colors on écru linen, by Mary Ann Marley, aged twelve, August 30, 1820 SAMPLERembroidered in brown on écru linen, by Martha Carter Fitzhugh, of Virginia, in 1793, and left unfinished at her death SAMPLERworked by Christiana Baird. Late eighteenth century American MEMORIAL PIECEworked in silks, on white satin. Sacred to the memory of Major Anthony Morse, who died March 22, 1805 SAMPLERof Moravian embroidery, worked in 1806, by Sarah Ann Smith, of Smithtown, L. I. SAMPLERworked by Nancy Dennis, Argyle, N. Y., in 1810 SAMPLERworked by Nancy McMurray, of Salem, N. Y., in 1793

26 32 32 50 52 52 54 54 54 56 56

PETIT POINT PICTUREwhich belonged to President John Quincy Adams, and now in the Dwight M. Prouty collection 56 SAMPLERin drawnwork, écru linen thread, made by Anne Gower, wife of Gov. John Endicott, before 1628 60 SAMPLERembroidered in dull colors on écru canvas by Mary Holingworth, wife of Philip English, Salem merchant, married July, 1675, accused of witchcraft in 1692, but escaped to New York 60 SAMPLERworked by Hattie Goodeshall, who was born February 19, 1780, in Bristol 60 NEEDLEBOOKof Moravian embroidery made about 1850, now in the possession of Mrs. J. N. Myers, Bethlehem, Pa. 64 MORAVIAN EMBROIDERYworked by Emily E. Reynolds, Plymouth, Pa., in 1834, at the age of twelve, while at the Moravian Seminary in Bethlehem, and now owned by her granddaughter 64 MORAVIAN EMBROIDERYfrom Louisville, Ky. 66 LINEN TOWELSembroidered in cross-stitch. Pennsylvania Dutch early nineteenth century 70 "THE MEETING OF ISAAC AND REBECCA"—Moravian embroidered picture, an heirloom in the Reichel family of Bethlehem, Pa. Worked by Sarah Kummer about 1790 74 "SUFFER LITTLE CHILDREN TO COME UNTO ME"— Cross-stitch picture made about 1825, now in the possession of the Beckel family, Bethlehem, Pa. 74 ABRAHAM AND ISAAC.Kensington embroidery by Mary Winifred Hoskins, of Edenton, N. C., while attending an English finishing school in Baltimore in 1814 76 FIRE SCREEN 78embroidered in cross-stitch worsted FIRE SCREEN, design, "The Scottish Chieftain," embroidered in cross-stitch by Mrs. Mary H. Cleveland Allen 78 FIRE SCREENworked about 1850 by Miss C. A. Granger, of Canandaigua, N. Y. 78 EMBROIDERED PICTURE 80in silks, with a painted sky CORNELIA AND THE GRACCHI.Embroidered picture in silks, with velvet inlaid, worked by Mrs. Lydia Very, of Salem, at the age of sixteen while at Mrs. Peabody's school 80 CAPEof white lawn embroidered. Nineteenth century American 84 COLLARSof white muslin embroidered. Nineteenth century American 84 BABY'S CAP.White mull, with eyelet embroidery. Nineteenth century American 86 BABY'S CAP. 86Embroidered mull. 1825 COLLARof white embroidered muslin. Nineteenth century American 86 EMBROIDERED SILK WEDDING WAISTCOAT, 1829. From the Westervelt collection 88 EMBROIDERED WAIST OF A BABY DRESS, 1850. From the collection of Mrs. George Coe 88 EMBROIDERY ON NET.for the front of a cap madeBorder about 1820 90 VEIL(unfinished) hand run on machine-made net. American

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92 98 98 100 100 104 104 104 104 108 108 118 118 122 126

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HTE DEVELOPMENT OF EMBROIDERY IN AMERICA

Thes otyro  fmerbio o  fdEne eh aGdrne the inh. We are  gifvaeles e dewr he tin tesetogt eh kfow rot ehe Evsincdle  neeni sedulcni yredll arytois hts i it f W .em  nehsiht he teg bniin ong nr sti ssu s e niec n all that conce srethgui evE foalf  olldae thl deegonlws ika dnors erithe kof t s ge cto aes and of t car roc drofmbeing anof well-litiei s topssbi ithwit ghoubrt i dlrow eht otniyed en-ee op camemtnpmellli s am far  as ried car udtisais munasah  as,sktag inakstsaw tra yreve dn  of the  historykro  fhtendeelow ntven ioany ind  yrr A .tiluocac d emts eodccmocia hmenplis thet of dlrow eeb dluowtois h athf  ory ixtsneeco  fam nwhich bears the  row  ,dltahtnni  serryto  tof eheeht morf ecuded an cWe. ntla pheott hg tnuilfos him  to tionrela namol s' secw foumrcanstcasicil t ehp yhm s cu hfo e recordse needl  os,seesgrr hef nem reh corp latthe own , ofagesipglno gegd iram  hof aer wrtthheht mhc ecara retWe can judge fro wohti  t n ohguth . s haenbee.omt  Iemuro tn na tsnicence asf benefi osa" oDl no ggamear gedew sasrc meht evag dna stn ," apoorthe  to  arcee nsab dnh otaefo raeb  ytuncsiSie raseav g eoth sim toeh r"a prey of needl' ,kroweno ekila id h s ot b Th" .'estiltsil csir eede phptiv—aliraseo cn eusw—li ltath sideske on bop a efreweldnemoll aee nesggtot   taphtuo tiwmlsood ameth n ofctio enod eb nac ti ersou cOf. elllraof it must have  ,ub tht eksli l tinsehoar fff-oneebrar e ,e nev  dutwhenand ies o s  f d ya ru eelsid owcrt inpat ouerusaelpon did s lls its e art teeci  nhtidffrenesmh l alntdeac elufeuts a oTrac re. s mo doeworkdeel fen ci o eartc phe tut bn,ioatzilivic lareneg skt ehd geer efointo a habit marcihwah hrg s nwostme picctrae icyro siot yod fna xistry e. A h ence era stnev riehte th ton  menefire deenowelrutp" den  othbo arkkeliB bield  eilttelon of caescriptiht fo daetsni ,nTh. alicanchmee   feptio h bat eh atioepar al pr rson oesavf laaie bletamlairub ,fo tidery tells not noylo  fht eirhcermmha he d ol gedetsaE foorbme nr storown  itsy inl nao nw.eT ugga t nos oe dchhi wtra na rof ,htwof a in ol garciamoemehc tct faefwrw teitare fee  .efi rehT h fol re e and gr practic sfoi st nerocdr ti fo eritaler sbee  wuswa amecoc not ehno siditmporve ie totanc  ecahtiwreh fles ser whe aaspet na drfmoi st tsta  and the world,  na doi nvitauctl of tionioraamelT .efil citsemodioutibtron cirhehca erl  mine w s ihs tell teft to uots  .yrriehnwo l eae theyThev r but,ry, tuna fori  netylc sahtsi che te, ausiouraulav dnceps elb land or country i son tpa toth vaa e itwrn te soritatcitsh laotsi e inf Evn, p Edefla reesamo d arctruston hor fedw diam ec dah oh corner of the gaeco  fesfli  n aol e saritauy endi iyali gnof tht r ee sedrcht ena dind  behleft is yregavas erehw tinpoe the blsivi yll tilteh dolene-nourisear Biblwenkd a  igeb  I .natizn io cofiliv  yllufer na otni tn,roapdlee nhepa e drgsea elvaewednd sm ca the dlehgot ehteyb rib f seriptrd peh e losep eicrdew ith a thorn and   hnd atsuifrf  o ot meht deit dad bre ha. Shrdennnre lam tlauohg hi Tlis ou bs.ghtag erehelttevE  e palings the fenc eha ppelu dnret  one ot bsih s.de fo d tits" hckila s and fascinatinI "  tsia  nneldse oresuein mewof  yrots gl eht foumstcircs, wancella nia na deg s o ylht ftsimbaka easp un ksid s" es re,ya c  rtstihc of theie method ,sdaerht derolo cofh tcti-sssroteohylm  eno whtn no eveh iswhic ersaruseo  fht eworld—were devot .deeroMaht ht n, iss ittiintemacoaia ssw tiitnoe grh th andowtheb-llew f fo gniliy ilam s kema fe n her owritten i itgno  fh n nawdirg inedneinpaaksta dnse nowela kr artf ante otimadl , hoghwcit  oecprd an, erlvsi t eht—senots suoi needles, what varep ya sotm ka e itoivnduaidspl  eullliwtta  hca n th whenufae maruc foo er,nihdl iatthd  nglo not s rerutcnif llah no sfos ocllceit in the shops orar fitirdraoo reeise hnge omr-fa  oebylt  enow rethey If ens!ecim  carb-à-cirb lanosicaocn  indou f latea ,sm dn edaednes led g an e avhtmet  oih sohsuehold." He is th B eht ,oler elbiwa, esat fhe"ts  rfotaehs cua ll worh asin mked  oush elde thy daon ,l ,t revemocpe, in oet us horot ah trut mi e  mdyan"ht rsfie ni denoitnem "nast b—bletory his I !  f omyr sem eih sere phee,im tnt  morf ,e t ot nedEughty daf Ever oss ,orecverena dmele fnt tor pheivor desemospmi she probably impwedef gil aeev s hw nam eht knahtt us mwe isthr Fotr .dna yta  dude an lovf inrselo noeh frpxeisset enr foime empltal tiltdet  ohtn indebt has bee iaetdnw  rht dofll oe cae Lof th dih fleht rednue plape  ahsugbo .sH re ehs ena dher audience of s morfnol ts-gemmepld taan linveea nven's i mant of evs  eh E n.sW itnoee bvehao  tits srif eht gnoma ne wants le to thdnp orevfom naikg onnimi . T rd  lhe ehtdeenyrts fo  hed titcda satilhcM w ihiwhtso equon Che tamliilW fo sseworp ehtven flax. hs of wo orbaetdreroi tn ee ne dl aayserieht m erssoPylbircso nim cxeociprts expe upowho,cifitneiw ,tset ioatinamscd ann cemine t s  oopisit ill refer all sp railnuf oitca ,n dvee atd ancupe ivitpac fo syad ghau dhe tor, tyroorehs fot et rntoiie A Marwful  ded eht tten nem e ontiofs ladidapifilua dnt ehp tiDauphin; ragged  ee"N r: o f  oesdlnoitoveDdleiw ",y caed bzed noninuacna dez donininsa itsann oud fo tnun iren ;seor: "Needles of Hsiotyr",l ki eht mseund uretuus mi dnuf neb luof them wilions of c loeltcP ! reahsp  wernd u,"ontilaosnoC fo seldeeN as: " uch s, sdingh aeertnfiefred  diamrw shguoht ttu St ard anr hehtso ehwci haMyrhich might come   gnirud gnol ehtemf  otsrydeoibrp taniot cibehit dismeir oursal h  enieterrrta eht might at st which  dluo eb  ,sew titot ve offdiulic dro eragd sigilahe mnd tes af agoH .meht ot hcatodpre thm ro fw,ge, one after anohtre ,erocever d teysesrif  oe thtsapow , dlureme  anddgedssif clana dei dgnderaarenimecspbeo  ts,enimaxe uj dna d u gnurgdnilg.y

INTRODUCTORY THE STORY OF THE NEEDLE

iuetesq crah rupthei in ulge indot su wolla ot danem t d encifiuf s eey tniweni gral hand sor actualdeef selippn ,yor fha, ext t,is doehicht yes noc nonoa now iditecsp toe  upe atul I .stibaldi si tnt customs and hilhg tpunoa cnei ietfln dsoof  ob dnos yiod l gn