Training in the Spanish textile and clothing industry

Cedefop — European Centre For The Development Of Vocational Training

Description

The situation in Catalonia and the autonomous community of Valencia
Vocational training
Labour market - free movement of workers

Sujets

• Textile industry
• Vocational education
• Cataluña
• Valencian Community
• Innovation

Informations

• Publié par: CEDEFOP-EUROPEAN-CENTRE-FOR-THE-DEVELOPMENT-OF-VOCATIONAL-TRAINING
• Nombre de lectures: 14
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 3 Mo

Extrait

2 Training in the Spanish
s textile and clothing industry
o — the situation in Catalonia
û and the autonomous
community of Valencia
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European Centre for the Development of Vocational Training O +rf Training in the Spanish textile and clothing industry — the situa­
t e tion in Catalonia and the autonomous community of Valencia
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Oriol Horns
J. Antoni Salmurri ε
Xènia Viladàs 3 Barcelona, December 1986 O
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O First edition, Berlin 1988
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U J Published by:
■ H CEDEFOP — European Centre for the Development of
LLJ Vocational Training
(\ Bundesallee 22, D-1000 Berlin 15
Tel. [phone], Telex 184 163 eucen d,
Telefax (030) 88 41 22 22
The Centre was established by Regulation (EEC) No 337/75
of the Council of the European Communities This publication is also available in the following languages:
ES ISBN 92-825-7043-6
FR ISBN 92-825-7045-2
Cataloguing data can be found at the end of this publication
Luxembourg: Office for Official Publications of the European Communities, 1988
ISBN 92-825-7044-4
Catalogue number: HX-48-87-355-EN-C
Reproduction is authorized, except for commercial purposes, provided the source is acknowledged.
Printed in Belgium Training in the Textile and Clothing Spanish Industry -
the Situation in Catalonia and the Autonomous Community of
Valencia
Preface
This document fits into the framework of the project in
the CEDEFOP work programme concerned with vocational
training in relation to the labour market. Its purpose is
the analysis of the role of vocational training in a
declining sector and of its comparative importance in the
European Community's three youngest member states.
Though focusing on these three countries the project in
fact concerns the entire Community: its aim is the
exchange of experiences among relevant institutions, and
in particular of information on development and training
strategies which have proved themselves in individual
member states, thus helping to resolve similar problems.
The textile and clothing sector, currently undergoing
restructuring, was chosen as the first area for analysis.
The first phase of the analysis comprises three
documentary studies of the development of the sector and
of training problems in Spain, Greece and Portugal. The
compilation of comprehensive and comparable information,
at both national and regional level, will allow detailed
examination of the issue in a second phase. This document forms part of the Spanish study and focuses
on the regional level. It may be consulted in its own
right or as a complement to the other part of the Spanish
study which is concerned with skills and qualifications in
the textile and clothing sector at the national level.
Cedefop, December 1986
Responsible.· T. Bertzeletou
Assistant director: C. Politi Contents
I Introduction 4
II The economic structure of the textile sector 9
2.1. The textile sector in Catalonia and the
Autonomous Community of Valencia
2.2. Output trends 12
2.3. Employment patterns in the subsectors and regions 14
2.4. Investment 25
2.5. Foreign trade9
III The impact of restructuring 34
3.1. Textile Industry Restructuring Programme 3
3.2. The Programme's results7
3.3. Design and Fashion Promotione 4
3.4. Implications of Spain's membership of the
European Community 51
3.5. The restructuring of the sector
IV New technologies and skills 60
4.1. Research and technological development 6
4.2. Technological innovations in the sector5
4.3. Changing skill and qualification profiles 76
V Training and employment 83
5.1. Training provision
5.2. Employers' training policies 9
5.3. Employment policy in the sector 106
VI Conclusions 11
VII Appendix 121 I Introduction
The purpose of this study is to analyse the situation as
regards training in the Spanish textile and clothing
industry through the study of two regions which are
representative of the sector's heterogeneity. Training
is here defined very broadly, including both that provided
within the education system under the auspices of the
governments of the Autonomous Communities within Spain and
the job training provided by the National Institute of
Employment (INEM) of the Ministry of Labour and Social
Security, together with a range of initiatives developed
by private bodies, trade associations etc. and the
training which firms in the sector choose to provide for
their own employees.
We have considered not only structure and organization and
the main training activities but also the training needs
which have been generated by the radical restructuring
process which the sector is undergoing.
It must be stressed that the study was carried out at a
time of major change in the textile and clothing industry,
so that it is difficult to draw definitive conclusions on
future prospects. Even though the Textile Industry
Restructuring Programme (Plan de Reconversion Textil, PRT)
is virtually complete (December 1986) its effects are
still making themselves felt. It is nevertheless the case
that the main directions which the restructuring process
is taking are now becoming clear. To help understand these trends and place them in their
context we have analysed the sector's economic structure
and the impact of the restructuring process, looking
particularly at technical and organizational changes and
at changes in job-qualification requirements.
The study has concerned itself solely with two of Spain's
autonomous regions, Catalonia and the Autonomous Community
of Valencia, selected because typical examples of textile
and clothing activities are carried on in both. Reference
has been made to data for Spain as a whole only where
necessary.
The approach adopted has been primarily qualitative, based
on direct contacts with the people concerned in each
region. All available quantitative data have been used,
but the stress has been on direct observation and on
summarizing the views of those involved. While in some
cases these may seem subjective and incomplete, overall
they provide a much more lively and realistic picture of
the situation, as well as remedying certain gaps and
shortcomings in the statistical data which on some points
were critical. The level of disaggregation with which the
study was concerned, by sector and region, was on many
occasions difficult to obtain.
It is important to realize the importance of the hidden
economy in this sector, notably in the areas of knitted
goods and dressmaking and tailoring, on which no
statistical data are available. Its extent has had to be studied indirectly, through contacts within the sector.
Following the qualitative approach an extensive programme
of contacts, interviews and observation was carried out
with individuals and firms representative of the sector as
a whole, to whom we are most grateful for their help in
the preparation of this report.
The main source for chapter 2 was the information held by
the Chambers of Commerce, Industry and Shipping of
Catalonia and the Autonomous Community of Valencia,
together with the official statistics of the National
Statistical Institute (INE), the Ministry of Industry and
the Ministry of Labour.
For chapter 3 use was made particularly of the recent
reports produced under the Textile Industry Restructuring
Programme and other existing reports on the impact of
Spain's membership of the European Community.
The information for chapter 4 was collected in the course
of visits to all the research centres located in the two
regions: the Institute of Chemical and Textile Technology
of the Higher Council of Scientific Research (CSIC ), the
Barcelona Polytechnic University (UPC) Institute of
Textile Research and the Department of Applied Textile
Research of the University College of Industrial Technical
Engineering in Terrassa. Use was also made of data from
the Census of Textile Machinery.