Mango & Mint

Nicky Garratt

Description

Mango & Mint follows the philosophy of delicious vegan cuisine. Nicky Garratt - UK Subs guitarist and vegetarian cook - has included recipes ideal for family dining and entertaining. Recipes for familiar classics are enriched with new tips and presentation ideas, while steadfast techniques provide inspiration for new combinations. Features a section about using 'recycled' foods such as watermelon rinds. An index of fresh ingredients helps quickly find a recipe using what's already in the fridge, while a sample menu section with photos offers plenty of inspiration.

Sujets

• Cooking

Informations

• Publié par: PM Press
• Date de parution: 20 juin 2013
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781604869293
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 12 Mo

Extrait

MANGOANDTNMI

Arabian, Indian, and North African Inspired Vegan Cuisine Nicky Garratt Photography by Lena Tsakmaki

Mango and Mint: Arabian, Indian, and North African Inspired Vegan Cuisine by Nicky Garratt © 2013 Nicky Garratt

his edition copyrigHt © 2013 PM Press All RigHts Reserved

ISBN: 978-1-60486-323-9 LCCN: 2012913631

PM Press PO Box 23912 Oakland, CA 94623 www.pmpress.org

Cover design by Nicky Garratt layout by JoHn Yates/www.stealworks.com Layout by JonatHan Rowland PHotograpHy copyrigHt © 2012 Lena Tsakmaki except front cover and page 239

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed on recycled paper by tHe Employee Owners of homson-SHore in Dexter, MicHigan. www.tHomsonsHore.com

Contents

Ganging Up

Almond Syrup Masalas Sambar Powder

Breads &Pies

Bread Topped wit Za’atar Capati Flax Roti

Soups

Apple Soup Butternut Squas Soup Casew Soup

18 19 20

31 32 33

45 46 47

Starters & Side Dishes

Apple Curry 57 Baba Ganous 58 Besan Pancakes 59 Bitter Melons wit Onion 60 Breakfast Raita 61 Brussels Sprouts in Rutabaga Sauce 62 Cabbage Curry 63 Cabbage Tagine 64 Curried Watermelon 65 Fenugreek Purée 66

Main Courses

Bananas in Nut Sauce 93 Baingan Barta 94 Bitter Melons wit Coconut 95 Cabbage and Peas wit Ginger96 Cauliflower, Potato, and Meti Curry Cana Masala wit Ciles Crookneck Squas wit Yellow Split Peas 99 Eggplant and Cickpeas 100 Falafel 101 Fennel in Nut Sauce 102

97 98

Moong Dal Base Nort Indian Base Sauce Orange Flower Syrup

Moroccan Bread Pita Bread Poori

Jerusalem Articoke Soup Lentil Soup Onion Rasam

21 22 23

34 35 36

48 49 50

Flavored Moong Dals 67 Green Beans in Tomato Sauce 69 Hummus 70 Mango and Pineapple Curry 72 Muammara 73 Peanut Vada 74 Pine Nut Pâté 75 Potatoes and Fenugreek 76 Red Radises in Rutabaga Sauce 77 Sambar 78

Fried Dal 103 Fūl Mudammas 104 Instant Celery Root Sambar 105 Jackfruit in Coconut-Casew Sauce 106 Kale and Moong Bean Stew 107 Kofta Sauce 108 Lima Bean Patties 109 Lotus Root Koftas 110 Musrooms in Nut Sauce 111 Masala Dosa 112

Rutabaga Base Sauce Wite Nut Sauce

Spinac Pies Stuffed Parata Vegetable Samosas

Tomato Rasam

11

24 25

27

37 38 39

41

51

53

Savory Brussels Sprouts 79 Savory Indian Snack 80 Savory Potato Cakes 82 Spagetti Squas wit Peanuts 83 Spicy Long Beans 84 Split Pea Koftas 85 Stir-Fried Peppers and Musrooms 86 Stuffed Peppers 87 Sweet Potatoes wit Scallions 88

89

Nort African Flavored Pasta 114 Okra Nort Indian Style 115 Peas and Musrooms in Gravy 116 Persimmons and Cickpeas wit Anise 117 Potatoes and Cauliflower in Gravy 118 Red Cabbage Koftas 119 Tomato-Stuffed Eggplants 120

Grains

Apple Mustard Rice Basmati Nortern Style Couscous

125 126 127

Salads & Dressings

Ajvar Barbecue Sauce Black Olive Sauce Cucumber Salad Lebanese Salad

137 138 138 139 140

Pickles & Chutney

Cile Citrus Pickle Coconut Cutney #1 Coconut Cutney #2 Fried Onion Garnis Fruit and Nut Cutney Harissa Indian Vegetable Pickle Kiwi Cutney

Desserts

151 152 152 153 154 155 156 157

Carrot Dessert 173 Coconut Berry Surprise 174 Coconut Halva 175 Date Royal 176 Deep-Fried Batter (Jalebi) in Kewra Syrup 177

Sample Menus

Drinks

Almond Drink Angelica Tea Ayran

Recycled

Articoke Stalk “Drumsticks” Banana Peel Relis Besan Scramble Black Vegetable Medley Grilled Vegetables in Oil Leftover Pasta

209 209 210

220 221 222 223 224 225

Lime Rice Pilaf 128 Mango Rice 129 Red Pepper and Tomato Pilaf 130

Moroccan Green Pepper Salad 140 Moroccan Orange and Black Olive Salad 141 Nort African Flavored Pasta Salad 142

Lime Pickle 158 Longan and Onion Cutney 159 Lotus Root and Date Cutney 160 Mint Cutney 161 Orange and Almond Anglo- Indian Marmalade 162 Pickled Vegetables 163

Donuts in Syrup Durian Dessert Halva Kumquat Coffee Dessert Lime-Mint-Guava Dessert Nut Brittle

Cickpea Flour Drink Hibiscus Flower Tea Mango Lassi

178 179 180 180 181 182

210 211 211

Leftover Vegetable Korma 226 Lemon Peel and Onion Relis 227 Miner’s Lettuce Salad 228 Nasturtium Seed Pickle 229 Nettle Saag 230 Nettle Soup 231

Rice Pilaf Toasted Coconut Rice

121

131 132

133

Pepper Sauce 143 Roasted Red Pepper Bulgur Salad 144 Spicy Fava Bean Salad 145 Taratoor (Sesame Sauce) 146 Za’atar Dip 146

147

Pineapple and Date Cutney 164 Preserved Lemons 165 Sweet Garlic and Cile Pickle 166 Sweet Mango Cutney 167 Tamarind Dipping Sauce 168 Tomato Cutney 168

Orange Sesame Candy Orange Slices in Syrup Wite Mulberry Dessert

Mint Tea Quince Quencer Watermelon-Basil Juice

169

183 184 184

185

205

Pakoras Pepper Brot Roasted Squas/Pumpkin Seeds Vegetable Curry Dal Vegetables wit Apricots Watermelon Rind Barta

212 213 213

215

232 233

234 235 236 237

First Bite

I came to vegetarianism quite unaided, as far as I remember. Prior to 1970, te year tat my memory flags as te beginnings of my cruelty- free awakening, my diet was already quite nonconforming. I detested eggs and fis and recall being at Filbert Street in te mid-1960s watc- ing Leicester City football team play wile eating ot dogs sans sausage. Oddly, from a quite early age I also sunned cocolate along wit most oter candy. Wen Easter rolled around, bot of my broters awoke to a large cocolate egg waiting by teir beds, wile my treat was an extra-large bag of peanuts. It wasn’t until I was in my forties tat coco- late worked its carms on me. My family were, and remain, quite main- stream in teir tinking wen it comes to food, and I was certainly te outsider. he origin of my views was pilosopical, callenging injus- tice, ypocrisy, and irrationality. Our family always ad pets, and wen I was a cild Pinky te guinea pig appily occupied te guard coac of te toy train as it was pulled around te garden. Our Alsatian dog was trained to elp us off wit our socks at bedtime, and years later Sopie te Pyrenees mountain dog was like a member of te family. Yet it seems tat I alone saw te dicotomy between te elevated life of tese pets and te lamb or pig on te plate. Starting in te mid-1960s, I’d become increasingly interested in te cavy (guinea pig) world. I started tentatively breeding te Himalayan variety and expanded to oter breeds. My fater and I modified a wooden outbuilding, wic we placed in te back garden. He fabricated multiple metal utc doors for te rows of cages built like deep selves along one side. hese roomy deluxe cavy apartments were modular and a simple slide out divider doubled te size of eac unit. Along wit a sow pen, te system accommodated around 40 guinea pigs. By te ’70s I was not only going to sows, transported by my dad, but eventually be- came a judge. Maintenance was time-consuming. Most days I was out pulling grass and weekends te cages were cleaned. During te summer a giant wire enclosure, wit divisions for boars, was moved daily across our lawn for grazing. I ave to conclude tat te experience saped and was saped by my feelings about animals to some degree. Certainly I

Nicky Garratt | Mango and Mint

ad no intention of ever betraying my obligations to tese creatures. As I entered my teen years, te last remnants of meat faded from my diet. I can’t say tere was a specific date at- taced to it, but certainly by te time I was playing in real bands I was a full- fledged vegetarian. I suppose te coun- terculture tat eventually awaited me in 1977 was a good fit for a nonconformist but at te time, too young for te prior ippy movement, I was on my own. I stumbled into my first band in te early ’70s, meeting te bass player troug te guinea pig sows. It was a sort-lived, longaired, tree-piece, proto-prog/eavy rock band. I tink we were called Holliday. Actually te name was quite irrelevant as we fizzled out witout a debut sow. I do remember converting te drummer’s parents’ living room into a reearsal space wile tey were away on vacation. We dragged te furniture out, ten pulled off mattresses from te beds and lined te walls. he bass player, somewat older tan I, mumbled troug some arbitrary lyrics, bookends for endless riffs and solos. he band is almost forgotten, even by me, save tat I learned two tings. First, tat block reearsal trumps te once-a-week get-togeter, and second, wen you strap on a guitar girls want to kiss you. hroug tat period I was also jam- ming wit a couple of scoolmates. In due time we found a drummer and turned into a blues band called Piltdown Man. We did one or two gigs, wic we put togeter ourselves and reearsed tat standard blues repertoire wic ad launced so many ’60s Britis bands. he singer, Simon “Honeyboy” Hickling (wo later went on to play armonica wit te DTs, Steve Marriott, and Bo Diddley) was devoted to te blues. I, 2

on te oter and, was more interested in te emerging ard rock/progressive scene, particularly in tat transition pe- riod once tose bands ad left 12-bar structure beind and te compositions became more expansive.

“Roll” Model By 1974 I moved on, playing in a six- piece pick-up band a sort drive across te border in Nortamptonsire. he band was put togeter initially for a vil- lage barn dance but struggled on for a wile tereafter. he dance itself was memorable in tat we ad to aul te uprigt piano, affixed wit roller cast- ers, across te fields on te back of a flat cart pulled by a tractor. Wat could go wrong? Anyway, te project inerited a benefactor of sorts in te form of a man wo ad designed unique equip- ment for te disbanded local rock band Stonewall. David, ten age undeter- mined, was mostly retired from a ig- profile position wit Marconi Radar. (Wen we recently caugt up via e-mail, e was 96 and still an erbivore.) Using is already-existing innovative sound system, I was recruited to wire a cannel for te new mixing board. his interesting caracter’s life was filled wit extraordinary events, people, and objects—te great Britis eccentric if you will. He ad an enormous influ- ence on me and would venture to great lengts to find exotic food items and prepare tem in an exacting manner. I recall tat, I tink by virtue of contact wit one of te developers, e possessed a microwave oven, in te mid-’70s. He owned a large old brick ouse on te corner of a quiet lane surrounded by a ig brick wall. Various food items were often cooling on a kitcen table wile a dozen and-built beeives provided

Nicky Garratt | Mango and Mint

jars of oney stacked in an outbuilding. In anoter outbuilding sat a alf-fin- ised sports car, wic e was assisting a local to build from a kit, yet anoter oused a gas-powered laser in te loft space above. his contraption, te size of a wasing macine, could fire a beam troug a trapdoor in te roof into te foggy Englis nigt sky. Besides intro- ducing me to avocados and Jerusalem articokes, e also exposed me to te music of Wagner troug is monolitic electrostatic speakers standing in te living room. Back in Leicester I was playing in a eavy rock outfit called Hole. After about one uncompromising year of reearsals, te bassist and I began earning money as te backing musicians for an older singer playing te social club circuit in a variety act called Albatross. his circuit was a mixture of mostly working men’s clubs, wit a few Liberal, Conservative, and Britis Lions clubs trown in. We played two or tree times a week at our peak, mostly on weekends. Between gigs we created a new “serious” progressive band. Of course te “real” band ad no gigs but wit te addition of J.B. on sax (later of Dexy’s Midnigt Runners—wo was not a party to our mercenary proj- ect), we eventually made te big move down to London togeter just in time for te punk explosion. Witin only a few monts I joined te embryonic UK Subs. he early punk scene in London was one of tose magical times in te istory of art wen we all felt someting special was taking place, and I dove eadlong into it. Every day tere was someting new in te scene and, altoug we didn’t give it muc tougt at te time, tose events eventually became legendary. he gigs wit te Subs escalated from local

pubs, te Marquee, te 100 Club, te Roxy, and te Vortex, to large national tours, ten to major international ex- cursions witin a couple of years. TV and press kept pace wit our carting records. By te late ’70s we were open- ing for te Police in te United States, followed by a European Ramones tour in 1980. From ten on it was eadlining only. It was an amazing wirlwind ride. One unforeseen consequence, owever, was my vegetarianism colliding wit te practicalities of touring. his logistical callenge ultimately motivated te doc- umentation of tese recipes.

Where’s the Leaf? Traveling around te world over te past 35 years, I witnessed significant improvements in te accommodations for vegetarians and even vegans. here’s no doubt tings improved but my early years as a professional guitarist were often burdened by constantly trying to track down food. In te larger upscale otels or res- taurants it seemed te kitcen staff ad no notion of a vegetarian cuisine and tose wo cose a meat-free diet were obliged to yield to a plate of steamed vegetables, maybe some sort of soy cut- let, or te dreaded tofu. At te oter ex- treme te “in-ouse” cefs for venues across Europe and te United States, wile usually understanding te meat- free concept, often served up wat could best be described as ippy food. Wen te promoter declared tat te cook made a great vegan curry, it was a good day for te diet. he “curry” was normal- ly a uge pot of stewed vegetables wit a couple of cans of coconut milk and a few tablespoons of curry powder trown in. Oter culinary mainstays of te counterculture were te catering-sized 3

Nicky Garratt | Mango and Mint

bowl of overcooked pasta laced wit mixed vegetable cubes, or te salads of sredded lettuce, cabbage, and carrots swimming in dressing. Many times I’ve been faced wit undercooked peppers stuffed wit rice and watery ratatouille wile across te road sits a falafel take- away or Indian restaurant. his wanton state of affairs was only exasperated wen traveling wit not-so-like-mind- ed colleagues. hen te reasonably ac- commodating dining opportunities, peraps Mexican or Italian, were inevi- tably rejected in favor of a steakouse or susi restaurant. Still, I was ultimate- ly quite content after te convention of stopping at a supermarket was gradu- ally introduced and, armed wit a “tuck bag” and various plastic containers, parking lots and otel rooms became my diners.

Biting Back In tis book I try, in some small way, to take on tis culinary drift by looking to traditional dises tat ave always been vegan. he two ingredients in te title represent flexibility and creativeness of two broad brances of food prepara- tion. Mango, in Indian cooking, is em- ployed in bot sweet and savory dises as well as in drinks, wile mint, similarly, in Nort Africa and te rest of te Arab world takes various roles as an erb in main dises, for sweet tea, and in salads and sauces. here are tousands of sen- sational vegan options in tese regions, wic ave been developed over un- dreds of years, refined and perfected, and fit into larger palettes of comple- mentary dises constituting real cui- sines. It seems to me tat tere is no need to make do, particularly in one’s own ome, by faking meat dises or omitting te fles to eat wat’s left.

4

Vegetarians and vegans will find te cuisines of India, Nort Africa, and te Middle East to be goldmines not only in flavor but also in color, texture, and aroma. In addition te flexible nature of teir food presentation allows for great variety of utility. Unlike a meat-based diet, in wic te kill becomes te cen- ter of a meal, a cruelty-free setting needs no suc center. One can, of course, pre- pare a main course wit side dises but a spread wit equal weigt divided buffet- style works perfectly well. his book is a manual for basic and more adventurous recipes from tese regions wit complementary recipes and additions. It is aimed at te parent wose twelve-year-old cild as gone vegetarian or te omnivore ost wo as to manage vegan dinner guests. It is also an everyday book for te veg- etarian and vegan wose diet peraps needs a boost of ideas. Wile many of tese recipes are based on autentic, traditional dises, some concession as been made for te modern kitcen and occasionally some ingredients substi- tuted to conform to a vegan diet, but only were it does not cange te na- ture of te dis. he scope witin eac cuisine is by no means exaustive; only select recipes are included. I ave, ow- ever, taken care to include sufficient examples of eac food genre to build a complete Indian, Arabian, or Moroccan menu. I am not a professional cef or even an expert on tese cultures, rater tese recipes and ideas are te result of de- cades of fending for myself. Wile te religious nuances are surely wasted on me, I ope my reconnaissance—particu- larly in Pakistan, India, Lebanon, Syria, and Morocco—may occasionally en- ance te tone of tese recipes.

Nicky Garratt | Mango and Mint

Dishealthclaimer assess vitamin or supplement needs but he reader migt come to notice tat remain, for te most part, skeptical of I ave not endorsed organic or locally te necessity to augment te diet in tat grown food. he former is politically way, altoug I’m told B12 sould be loaded and te latter a tall order for Far supplemented in a vegan diet. Naturally and Middle Eastern cuisine. I’ll leave tere are some people wo do ave real tose notions to oters, including te allergies or oter medical issues. To reader, to plug into tese recipes or not evaluate te merits of any diet I advise as te case may be. you to turn to an expert in te field, not his is not a ealt food book, nor do a pseudoscience guru or for tat matter I make any ealt claims about a vegan a guitar player! My attitude in tis re- diet. Any ealt benefits from tese rec- gard is te blunderbuss pilosopy: eat ipes are purely coincidental. You will not a broad variety of food. read te prase “supports te immune My intention is to create a ow-to system,” nor will I balance imaginary manual, not a political manifesto. I be- energy fields, attac fabricated proper- lieve I can make a strong pilosopical ties to erbs and spices, invoke ludicrous case for a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, omeopatic assertions, or any oter but tat is not my mandate ere. suc mumbo jumbo. I’m not qualified to S

Some essential ingredients in tis book are not always available in a supermar- ket. Most of te nonfres components ave a decent self life, toug te spice mixtures sould be stored in air- tigt jars, preferably out of direct sun- ligt, to retain a strong flavor. It sould also be noted tat certain ingredients can ave different names depending on te cuisine. For example, fres corian- der is more often called cilantro in te West. Accordingly, I ave tried to adopt te names most commonly used in te United States.

Besan Indian cickpea flour (also known as gram flour) is a vital meal in India, were more tan alf of te world’s cickpeas are consumed. It’s used in batter, bread, desserts, pancakes, as a tickener, and even in drinks. It is made from te darker, smaller variety of cickpea called desi

(wic is also split to make cana dal) and comes raw or roasted. As dry roasting is quite easy, I recommend te raw flour, wic gives more control and options. Besides te many recipes in tis book tat call for besan, it can ave te addi- tional use as an egg substitute in some recipes mixed one to one wit water.

Black/Brown Mustard Seeds In soutern India tese seeds are used to infuse cooking oil in a multitude of dis- es, eiter at te start or at te tempering stage at te end—sometimes bot! It is terefore important to ave an adequate supply. I do not recommend substituting yellow mustard seeds for black. he ig- er-yielding black (or brown) seeds ave a distinctive nutty taste once popped.

Coconut Oil I’ve found tat a mixture of coconut oil and canola oil is a good start for many 5