Matzoh Ball Gumbo

Marcie Cohen Ferris

Description

From the colonial era to the present, Marcie Cohen Ferris examines the expressive power of food throughout southern Jewish history. She demonstrates with delight and detail how southern Jews reinvented culinary traditions as they adapted to the customs, landscape, and racial codes of the American South. Richly illustrated, this culinary tour of the historic Jewish South is an evocative mixture of history and foodways, including more than thirty recipes to try at home.

Sujets

• American Cooking
• Ethnic Cooking
• Regional cooking
• Misisipi
• Nueva Orleans
• Carolina del Sur
• Luisiana
• Río Misisipi
• Harry Golden
• New South
• History of the Jews in the United States
• New Orleans
• Low Countries
• Memphis, Tennessee
• South Carolina
• Mississippi River
• Jewish holiday
• Cooking
• Montgomery
• Memphis
• Louisiana
• Georgia
• Civil War
• Leo Frank
• Natchez
• Delta
• Charleston
• Savannah
• La Nouvelle-Orléans
• Atlanta
• Tennessee
• Mississippi
• Caroline du Sud
• Arkansas
• Alabama

Informations

• Publié par: The University of North Carolina Press
• Date de parution: 01 janvier 2012
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9798890879196
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 9 Mo

Extrait

Mat  oh Ball Gumbo

     

Chapel Hill

Mat  oh Ball Gumbo Culinary ales of the ewish South   

©  Marcie Cohen Ferris All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States of America

Designed by Richard Hendel Set in Minion and Scala types by Tseng Information Systems, Inc. Title page illustration ©  by Ed Lindlof The paper in this book meets the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Committee on Production Guidelines for Book Longevity of the Council on Library Resources.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ferris, Marcie Cohen. Matzoh ball gumbo : culinary tales of the Jewish South / Marcie Cohen Ferris. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. --- (cloth : alk. paper) . Cookery, Jewish. . Cookery, American—Southern style. . Jews—Southern States. I. Title. . .'—dc 

cloth paper

         

         

Contents

Acknowledgments ix

 There’s No Place Like Home   Temple Israel Brisket  Holiday Honey Chicken with Fruit  Garfinkle Family Noodle Pudding  Sabbath Marble Cake  B’rer Rabbit Molasses Cookies 

 Colonial Roots of Southern Jewish Cuisine: Savannah and Charleston   Camp Blue Star Claremont Salad  Cold Lemon Stew Fish  Cornbread  Spoonbread  Sister Sadie’s Honey Cake  Schnecken 

 Matzoh Ball Ya Ya: The Creole and Jewish Worlds of New Orleans and Natchez   Red Soup  Baked Redfish in Creole Court Bouillon  Chicken and Sausage Gumbo  Baked Roux  Creole Matzoh Balls  ‘‘Dirty Matzoh’’ Dressing  Pesach Fried Green Tomatoes  Praline Sweet Potato Casserole  Shirley’s Cup Custard 

 ‘‘Too Jewish’’ in Atlanta: Negotiating Food and Fear in the New South   Crispy Baked Chicken  CornmealFried Fish Fillets with Sephardic Vinagre Sauce  Vinagre Sauce  Simmered BlackEyed Peas with Tomatoes  Cheese Blintzes  Apple Matzoh Pudding 





Feeding the Jewish Soul in the Delta Diaspora   Caper Sauce Fish  Company Cornbread  Thanksgiving Cornbread Oyster Dressing  Mimah’s Cheesecake  Mississippi Praline Macaroons 

What’s a Nice Jewish Boy Doing in the Barbecue Business?: Exploring Jewish Food Traditions in Memphis   Barbecued Black Pepper Beef Ribs  Mock Ridgewood Barbecue Sauce  Sweet and Sour Passover Meatballs  Mandel Bread  Sour Cream Pound Cake 

Epilogue: How Can a Potato Kugel Be Southern?   Fruit Compote  Rosh Hashanah Jam Cake  Fresh Pear Cake  Pecan Kugel 

Notes  Bibliography  Index 

Illustrations

The Cohen family, Thanksgiving Day, , Blytheville, Arkansas  Kream Kastle Drive-in, Blytheville, Arkansas,   Grade , Central Elementary, Blytheville, Arkansas, –  Luba Tooter Cohen, Blytheville, Arkansas, ca.   Temple Israel, Blytheville, Arkansas, Fiftieth Anniversary Reunion,   Daisy Hutzler Heller, Richmond, Virginia  Party for Carolee Rosen’s first birthday, Asheville, North Carolina,   Eileen Lobel, Savannah, Georgia,   Minis Home, Savannah, Georgia,   Lilly Zalkin Bebergal in front of Zalkin’s Meat Market, Charleston, South Carolina, ca.   Business card of Laufer’s Kosher Restaurant, Charleston, South Carolina  M. Collis Bakery, Charleston, South Carolina, ca.   City Market, Savannah, Georgia,   Isadore and Jennie Gottlieb and family, Savannah, Georgia, ca. s  Gottlieb’s Bakery, Savannah, Georgia, ca.   Elliott, Irving, Milton, and Isser Gottlieb  Laurence Gottlieb, The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Virginia,   Don’t Worry Club, Savannah, Georgia,   Herbert Kayton and friends playing football, Tybee Island, Georgia  Jewish Educational Alliance ‘‘Eppes Essen’’ Dinner, Savannah, Georgia, ca. late s 

Lakeside Inn advertisement  Jewish Community Center Day Camp, Charleston, South Carolina,   Jewish Educational Alliance Summer Camp, Savannah, Georgia,   Dana Berlin Strange and wedding photograph of her mother, Sheralee Berlin, and Jestine Matthews, Charleston, South Carolina,   Samuel Breibart’s Grocery Store, Charleston, South Carolina, ca.   Marcie Rosenburg and Earl McCallum, Jewish Community Center, Charleston, South Carolina,   Congregation Mickve Israel Jewish Food Festival, Savannah, Georgia,   Carol Towbin Greenberg and volunteer rugelach bakers, Congregation Mickve Israel, Savannah, Georgia,   Florette Geismar Neuwirth, New Orleans, Louisiana,   Lee Geismar Stamler and Art Stamler, Traveler’s Rest, South Carolina,   Jewish Widow and Orphans Home Banquet Menu, New Orleans, Louisiana,   Southern Matzos Bakery advertisement  Pressner’s Kosher Delicatessen advertisement  Mildred Lubritz Covert, New Orleans, Louisiana,   Shirley Bateman-Barra, New Orleans, Louisiana,   Kosher Cajun New York Deli and Grocery, New Orleans, Louisiana,   The Bagel Factory, New Orleans, Louisiana,   Bar mitzvah celebration of Charles Borochoff, Atlanta, Georgia,   White Swan Shortening advertisement  Dunlop Flour advertisement  ‘‘Aunt Jemima’s Latkes’’ advertisement 

Thirty-fifth anniversary dinner in honor of Mr. and Mrs. Emil Dittler, Standard Club, Atlanta, Georgia,  February   Ballyhoo, Standard Club, Atlanta, Georgia,   Louis and Esther Pazol family Passover seder, Atlanta, Georgia,   Max Feldman’s Grocery Store, Atlanta, Georgia, ca.   A. G. Reisman Groceries and Meats, Atlanta, Georgia  Dinner at the home of Shirley Berkovitz Brickman and Perry Brickman, Atlanta, Georgia,   Congregation Shearith Israel Kosher Barbecue, Atlanta, Georgia,   Coca-Cola advertisement, ‘‘Now Kosher for Passover’’  David Hazan’s Fruit Stand, Atlanta, Georgia, ca.   Stein’s Kosher Meat Market, Atlanta, Georgia,   Windsor Jordan of Mary Jordan Catering, Atlanta, Georgia,   Lamar White, Congregation Ahavath Achim, Atlanta, Georgia,   Fannie Bailey and Lisa Collis Cohen, Atlanta, Georgia,   Four generations of Tourial women, Congregation Or VeShalom, Atlanta, Georgia,   Volunteer bureka bakers, Congregation Or VeShalom, Atlanta, Georgia,   Cotton fields in the Mississippi Delta,   M. Grundfest store, Cary, Mississippi,   Betty Grundfest Lamensdorf, Cary, Mississippi,  

Grundfest and Klaus, Inc., cotton gin, Cary, Mississippi,   Joe Gerache and Ann Grundfest Gerache, Vicksburg, Mississippi,   Highway , the Mississippi Delta,   Ballroom at the B.B. (B’nai B’rith) Club, Vicksburg, Mississippi,   A. A. Ehrman Meat Dealer advertisement  D. J. Shlenker Grocer advertisement  Piggly Wiggly advertisement  Bert Adler Wolff, Memphis, Tennessee,   Aileen Titche Burson, Memphis, Tennessee,   Claudia Berkins, Congregation Beth Sholom, Memphis, Tennessee,   Barry and Don Pelts, Corky’s, Memphis, Tennessee,   Melvin Katz and one of his barbecue smokers, Memphis, Tennessee,   -Kroger KosherContest and Festival logo, Memphis, Tennessee,  October   Stewart Lazaroff,-Kroger Kosher Contest chairman, Memphis, Tennessee,  October   A Memphis Sabbath dinner,   Huddy Cohen’s recipe for split pea soup  Huddy Cohen with her roasted chicken, Memphis, Tennessee,   Shelby Flowers Ferris with her chocolate ice box cake, Vicksburg, Mississippi,   Passover seder at Hyman and Edie Pearlstine’s home, Charleston, South Carolina,   Dina and Donna Ackerman with their grand- mother, Zelda Bernard, and her daughter, Rose Ackerman, Greensboro, North Carolina,   Walnut Hills Restaurant, Vicksburg, Mississippi,  

cknowledgments

I am indebted to family, colleagues, friends, and the many individuals who shared their memories of food traditions in the Jewish South with me. My oral history narrators and survey respondents are listed in the bibliogra- phy, and I am deeply grateful to each for their participation in my work. John Vlach and Pam Nadell co-chaired my doctoral committee and en- couraged me to explore the fields of American cultural studies, folklore, and American Jewish history as a way to understand southern Jewish iden- tity. I am grateful to both of them for their mentorship and to the other members of my doctoral committee at George Washington University, Jim Horton, Bernard Mergen, and Ann Romines. Joan Nathan is my mentor in the world of American Jewish foodways. She invited me to her home to test recipes, and she fed my husband Bill and me at many delicious Sabbath meals and Passover seders. Joan’s ability to share the history and culture of Jewish foodways with all Americans has inspired me. I am deeply appreciative of the friendship that various people have given me as I worked on this project. These friends include Sandy Armen- trout, Jack Bass, Dorothea Bowles, Beverly Brannan, Denise Broussard, Linda Cerniglia, Meredith Elkins, Jan Campbell Franks, Billie Gammon, Vicki Gless, Mary Hartwell and Beckett Howorth, Meg Haskell, Sharon and John Hays, Ann Hubbard, Cecelia and Bob Jolls, Marsha and Jo- seph Kelly, Lorna Kent, Robert and Elaine Lehmann, Harriet and Frank Livingston, Liz and Rafi Magnes, Sherrie Nichol, Stephen and Sandra Rich, Leonard Rogoff, Lynda Rubenstein, Bob Rudolph, Janie Weinberg, Charles Reagan Wilson, Bonny Wolf and Michael Levy, and Kenny and Shelly Zegart. Friends and colleagues Joyce Antler, Mark Bauman, Shirley Brickman, Aleisa Fishman, Mark Greenberg, Leah Hagedorn, Rachel Heimovics, Cathy Kahn, Kaye Kole, Bobbie Malone, Larry Powell, Stuart Rockoff, Dale Rosengarten, and Jonathan Sarna read my work, and I am so grateful for their wise counsel. Dale Rosengarten’s work on the Jewish South sets a mark of excellence that I can only hope to model. Dale generously shared research collections with me, as well as her in- sightful eye for historical analysis. Jenna Weissman Joselit’s writings in- spired my study of Jewish domestic culture in the southern United States. Conversations with Ruth Abusch-Magder, Sherry Blanton, Janice Roth-