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Publié par | Everest Media LLC |
Date de parution | 26 mars 2022 |
Nombre de lectures | 0 |
EAN13 | 9781669365532 |
Langue | English |
Poids de l'ouvrage | 1 Mo |
Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0150€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.
Extrait
Insights on Jon Krakauer's Classic Krakauer
Contents Insights from Chapter 1 Insights from Chapter 2 Insights from Chapter 3 Insights from Chapter 4 Insights from Chapter 5 Insights from Chapter 6 Insights from Chapter 7 Insights from Chapter 8
Insights from Chapter 1
#1
On December 23, 1994, a trio of renowned big-wave surfers from the Hawaiian Islands, Brock Little, Ken Bradshaw, and Mark Foo, arrived at Pillar Point to join the local crew in the surf. The names and faces of the three Hawaiians were familiar to most of the five million surfers on the planet.
#2
The waves at Mavericks are infamous for being huge, and some even claim they are bigger than the famous waves at Hawaii’s Waimea Bay. However, the waves failed to live up to the hype in 1990.
#3
Big-wave surfing has become a serious sport, with only a few hundred people in the world being able to drop into the jaws of a 40-foot wave and emerge on their feet. The difference between riding a head-high wave and a hollow, dredging 40-footer is the difference between driving 35 mph and 200 mph.
#4
The big-wave brotherhood has always held audacity in high esteem, but a fine distinction is made between boldness and idiocy. Idiocy is termed kook behavior and is one of the worst epithets in the surfers’ lexicon.
#5
Clark was the first person to surf Mavericks when it was actually going off, and he spent the next fifteen years surfing the outside peak by himself. He never had the chance to make a living on the professional contest circuit, but he admired Foo immensely because he showed that it was possible to have a viable career riding big waves.
#6
It was not until 1990 that outsiders started to notice Mavericks. On January 22, a northwest swell of historic proportions came ashore up and down the California coast. Jeff Clark had driven into San Francisco to work on a construction project, but when he heard the buoy reports, he fled the job site and headed to nearby Ocean Beach.