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In Russia's Far East sits the wild Ussuri Kray, a region known for its remote highlands and rugged mountain passes where tigers and bears roam the cliffs, and salmon and lenok navigate the rivers. In this collection of travel writing by famed Russian explorer and naturalist Vladimir K. Arsenyev (1872-1930), readers are shuttled back to the turn of the 20th century when the Russian Empire was reeling from its defeat in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) and vulnerable to its Far Eastern neighbors. What began as an expedition to survey the region's infrastructure for the Russian military turned into an adventure through a territory rich in ethnic and ecological diversity. Encountering the disappearing indigenous cultures of the Nanai and Udege, engaging the help of Korean farmers and Chinese hunters, and witnessing the beginning of indomitable Russian settlement, Arsenyev documents the lives and customs of the region's inhabitants and their surroundings. Originally written as "a popular scientific description of the Kray," this unabridged edition includes photographs largely unseen for nearly a century and is annotated by Jonathan C. Slaght, a biologist working in the same forests Arsenyev explored. Across the Ussuri Kray is a classic of northeast Asian cultural and natural history.


Foreword: The Unknown Arsenyev / Ivan Yegorchev
Preface to the 1921 Edition
Translator's Acknowledgements
Translator's Introduction
Part I: The 1902 Expedition
1. The Glass Valley
2. Meeting Dersu
3. The Boar Hunt
4. The Incident at a Korean Village
5. The Lower Reaches of the Lefu
6. The Blizzard at Lake Khanka
7. Parting Ways with Dersu
Part II: The 1906 Expedition
8. The 1906 Expedition—Preparations and Equipment
9. At the Departure Site
10. Up the Ussuri
11. From Chzhumtayza to the Village Zagornaya
12. The Route across the Mountains to the Village of Koksharovka
13. The Fudzin River Valley
14. Through the Taiga
15. The Great Forest
16. Across the Sikhote-Alin to the Sea
17. The Villages of Fudin and Permskoye
18. Saint Olga Bay
19. Trip to the Sydagou River
20. Adventure on the Arzamasovka River
21. Saint Vladimir Bay
22. The Tadusha River
23. Dersu Uzala
24. Amba
25. The Li-Fudzin
26. The Path along the Noto River
27. An Accursed Place
28. Return to the Sea
29. Up the Tyutikhe River
30. The Red Deer Rut
31. The Bear Hunt
32. From the Mutukhe River to Seokhobe
33. An Encounter with the Khunkhuz
34. Fire in the Forest
35. The Winter Expedition
36. To the Iman
37. A Dangerous River Voyage
38. Plight
39. From Vagunbe to Parovoza
40. The Final Trip
Appendix I: Historical and Current Names of Landmarks and Settlements
Appendix II: Biographical Information
Bibliography
Index of Plants and Animals
Index

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Date de parution

19 septembre 2016

Nombre de lectures

0

EAN13

9780253022196

Langue

English

ACROSS THE USSURI KRAY

ACROSS THE USSURI KRAY
TRAVELS IN THE SIKHOTE-ALIN MOUNTAINS
VLADIMIR K. ARSENYEV
Translated with annotations by JONATHAN C. SLAGHT
This book is a publication of
Indiana University Press Office of Scholarly Publishing Herman B Wells Library 350 1320 East 10th Street Bloomington, Indiana 47405 USA
iupress.indiana.edu
2016 by Jonathan C. Slaght All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. The Association of American University Presses Resolution on Permissions constitutes the only exception to this prohibition.
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information Sciences-Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1992.
Manufactured in the United States of America
Cataloging information is available from the Library of Congress.
ISBN 978-0-253-02205-9 (cloth) ISBN 978-0-253-02215-8 (paperback) ISBN 978-0-253-02219-6 (ebook)
1 2 3 4 5 21 20 19 18 17 16
For Hendrik Arseniev Slaght
CONTENTS
Foreword: The Unknown Arsenyev / Ivan Yegorchev
Preface to the 1921 Edition
Translator s Acknowledgments
Translator s Introduction
PART I: THE 1902 EXPEDITION
1 The Glass Valley
2 Meeting Dersu
3 The Boar Hunt
4 The Incident at a Korean Village
5 The Lower Reaches of the Lefu
6 The Blizzard at Lake Khanka
7 Parting Ways with Dersu
PART II: THE 1906 EXPEDITION
8 Expedition Preparations and Equipment
9 At the Departure Site
10 Up the Ussuri
11 From Chzhumtayza to the Village of Zagornaya
12 The Route across the Mountains to the Village of Koksharovka
13 The Fudzin River Valley
14 Through the Taiga
15 The Great Forest
16 Across the Sikhote-Alin to the Sea
17 The Villages of Fudin and Permskoye
18 Saint Olga Bay
19 Trip to the Sydagou River
20 Adventure on the Arzamasovka River
21 Saint Vladimir Bay
22 The Tadusha River
23 Dersu Uzala
24 Amba
25 The Li-Fudzin
26 The Path along the Noto River
27 An Accursed Place
28 Return to the Sea
29 Up the Tyutikhe River
30 The Red Deer Rut
31 The Bear Hunt
32 From the Mutukhe River to Seokhobe
33 An Encounter with the Khunkhuz
34 Fire in the Forest
35 The Winter Expedition
36 To the Iman
37 A Dangerous River Voyage
38 Plight
39 From Vagunbe to Parovoza
40 The Final Trip
Appendix 1: Historical and Current Names of Landmarks and Settlements
Appendix 2: Biographical Information of Characters
Bibliography
Index
FOREWORD
The Unknown Arsenyev
Vladimir Arsenyev (1872-1930) is a well-known figure among Russians as a scientist, explorer, and writer. He was an officer in the Russian Imperial Army and advanced to the rank of lieutenant colonel by 1913. In his thirty years in the Russian Far East, Arsenyev took part in a dozen major (and innumerable minor) expeditions to study the forested corners of the Ussuri Kray. He is probably best known outside of Russia for Akira Kurosawa s adaptation of Dersu Uzala , based on Arsenyev s book of the same name, which won an Academy Award in 1975 for Best Foreign Language Film.
Arsenyev s first offering of popular literature was Across the Ussuri Kray (Dersu Uzala): Travels in the Sikhote-Alin Mountains , published in Vladivostok in 1921 and the subject of translation here. Two years later he published Dersu Uzala: Recollections of a 1907 Expedition to the Ussuri Kray . In 1926, the text of these two books was significantly edited by Soviet censors, combined, and published as In the Wilds of the Ussuri Kray . To give an example of the extent of these redactions, the first edition of Across the Ussuri Kray had forty chapters, but Soviet censorship reduced this to only twenty-eight. Similarly, Dersu Uzala was reduced from thirty chapters to twenty-four. These abridged versions, reprinted again and again, are what generations of Russian readers have been exposed to.
It was only in 2007 that Russian audiences were given access to the original versions, when the Primorye branch of the Russian Geographical Society, called the Society for Study of the Far East, teamed up with Rubezh Publishers in Vladivostok to publish the original, unedited, and uncensored texts as part of a six-volume collection of Arsenyev s writings. It is specifically the 1921 version of Across the Ussuri Kray , free from Soviet edits and censorship, that forms the basis of translation here. For the first time, English-language audiences can read Arsenyev unabridged and in the way that he intended.
Out of all Arsenyev s works, Across the Ussuri Kray was selected for translation first because it provides readers with an excellent introduction to the world of the Ussuri taiga and allows one to experience this wilderness as Arsenyev did. Readers are given a sense of what it s like to be a wanderer there, lost in a boundless expanse of forest but moving resolutely toward a clear goal.
It is important to note that although Arsenyev wrote this book based on his field journals, it should not be considered a strict documentation of fact. This is something that many Russian readers, even specialists, have not properly understood. For example, in this text Arsenyev first meets Dersu Uzala in 1902, but according to his field notes their true first encounter was in 1906. There are other examples of departure from fact within the text, usually dates or sequences of events modified to structure the narrative. But the details of his expeditions themselves and the things he saw in those places-these are all true and supported by his journals.
Arsenyev made the most of his military expeditions by gathering vast amounts of information tangential to his charge. He went out of his way to document and collect local flora and fauna, as well as considerable ethnographical and archeological material now housed in museums all across Russia. But even more important was Arsenyev s ability to transform the scribbles of his field journals into compelling literature. He used his talents as a writer to show others how he viewed the Ussuri Kray and to create a vivid image of the woodsman Dersu Uzala, a local tracker of the Gold tribe. It s easy to forget that Arsenyev also authored multiple scientific texts on a range of topics, including Chinese in the Ussuri Kray (1914), Ethnographical Challenges in Eastern Siberia (1916), and The Pacific Walrus (1927).
Arsenyev was appointed director of the Khabarovsk Museum in 1910, a position he held until 1919. In addition to his time at the museum, he toured Moscow and Saint Petersburg giving lectures on the Far East and received medals from the Russian Museum in Saint Petersburg and the Imperial Russian Geographical Society. In 1919 he was awarded lifetime honorary membership to both the National Geographic Society (United States) and the Royal Geographic Society (United Kingdom).
Arsenyev had eclectic interests: military intelligence and the collection of statistical information, the study of flora and fauna, geology, cartography, ethnography, archeology, toponymy, and population demographics. Readers might be surprised to learn that Arsenyev s only formal education came from a military infantry school in Saint Petersburg-everything else he learned on his own, either from books or from interactions with scientists. Thus, the term self-made man is a perfect description of Arsenyev.
In the aftermath of the Russian Revolution in 1917, Arsenyev chose to accept the Soviet regime rather than flee the country as some of his colleagues did. He garnered considerable success under the Soviets: he became a well-known author, began lecturing at the Far Eastern University, had his books translated into German, and prepared a ten-volume collection of his essays for publication in Moscow. Arsenyev traveled to the Kamchatka Peninsula and the Commander Islands in the 1920s, explored the Amur River basin, helped formulate five-year economic development plans for the region, and continued to study the indigenous tribes of the Kray.
However, it is clear that his relationship with the new regime was overshadowed by political suspicions. In 1926, Vladimir Arsenyev was forced to write a letter to the secret police in the city of Khabarovsk denying an enemy propaganda charge that had been made against him. By the late 1920s he was increasingly criticized in the local press for practicing what was deemed non-Marxist science.
Arsenyev came down with a cold during his final trip, in 1930, to the lower reaches of the Amur River, where he was overseeing four simultaneous expeditions to identify future potential railroad routes. He died of a heart attack on his way home to Vladivostok on September 4th, 1930. He was fifty-eight years old.
It is sad to say, but Arsenyev s sudden death probably saved him considerable anguish. Had he survived a few more years he would almost certainly have fallen victim to the purges that ravaged the Soviet Union in the 1930s. His widow, Margarita Arsenyeva, was arrested in Vladivostok in March 1934 and charged with conspiracy against the Soviet government. She was released in January 1936, only to be arrested again in June 1937. She was subsequently sentenced to death and executed on August 21st, 1938. Natasha, Vladimir Arsenyev s eighteen-year-old daughter from his second marriage (to Margarita), was left alone, and her fate also proved tragic.

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