Dress as Social Relations

Vibeke Maria Viestad

Description

Indexed in Clarivate Analytics Book Citation Index (Web of Science Core Collection)
Part I  To Dress: Background and Perspectives

Chapter 1 The Myth of the Naked Bushman

Chapter 2 How to Study Bushman Dress

Part II  Dressed in Social Structure: The Bushman Dress of Dorothea Bleek

Chapter 3 Field Notes and Diaries, 1911 and 1913

Chapter 4 The South West Africa Expeditions, 1920–1921 and 1921–1922

Part III Dressed in Group Relations: The Bushman Dress of Louis Fourie

Chapter 5 Bushman Groups Materialised

Chapter 6 Dress Noted

Part IV Dressed as Told: Interpreting Dress Practices from /Xam Bushman Narratives

Chapter 7 Body Modifications: How to Live Life in a Sometimes-Unpredictable World

Chapter 8 The Embedded Properties of Clothing: Human and Animal Relations

Chapter 9 Identities in the Making: Being Dressed

Conclusion: A World of Dress

Epilogue

Appendix 1 Note on Nomenclature

Appendix 2 Map of southern Africa

Bibliography

Unpublished sources

Online collections

Online publications and sites

Literature

Index

Sujets

• Social Science
• Sociologie, société et politique
• Material culture
• General officer
• Anthropology
• General
• Social
• Culture

Informations

• Publié par: WITS University Press
• Date de parution: 01 août 2018
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781776141937
• Langue: English
• Poids de l'ouvrage: 1 Mo

Extrait

DRESS AS SOCIAL RELATIONS
DRESS AS SOCIAL RELATIONS
An Interpretation of Bushman Dress
by Vibeke Maria Viestad
Published in South Africa by:
Wits University Press
1 Jan Smuts Avenue
Johannesburg, 2001
www.witspress.co.za
Copyright Vibeke Maria Viestad 2018
Published edition Wits University Press 2018
Photographs © Copyright holders 2018 Cover image: Decorated U-shaped bag SAMAE1545c, Iziko Social History Collection. Photograph supplied by Iziko Museums of South Africa.
First published 2018
http://dx.doi.org.10.18772/12018081913
978-1-77614-191-3 (Print)
978-1-77614-192-0 (Web PDF)
978-1-77614-193-7 (EPUB)
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher, except in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright Act, Act 98 of 1978.
All images remain the property of the copyright holders. The publishers gratefully acknowledge the publishers, institutions and individuals referenced in the captions for the use of images. Every effort has been made to locate the original copyright holders of the images reproduced here; please contact Wits University Press in case of any omissions or errors.
Project manager: Hazel Cuthbertson
Copy editor: Lee Smith
Proofreader: Alison Lockhart
Indexer: Marlene Burger
Design and layout: Fire and Lion
Typesetter: MPS
Typeset in 9 point Gotham Narrow
Contents
List of Figures
Acknowledgements
PART I TO DRESS: BACKGROUND AND PERSPECTIVES
The problem
Scope of the approach
The questions
The outline
Chapter 1 The Myth of the Naked Bushman
Scientific racism and the exhibition of Bushmen
Early Bushman ethnography
Modern Bushman ethnography
Chapter 2 How to Study Bushman Dress
A definition of dress
The significance of dress
Pieces of dress: Lost and found
Mix and match: A theoretical bricolage
Research material
A museal paradox
PART II DRESSED IN SOCIAL STRUCTURE: THE BUSHMAN DRESS OF DOROTHEA BLEEK
Reconstructing the /auni dress
Reconstructing the Basarwa dress
Reconstructing the Naron dress
Dressing ‘the naked Bushman’
Chapter 3 Field Notes and Diaries, 1911 and 1913
Words and sentences
Kyky, Gordonia, 10 October to 21 November 1911
Kakia, Bechuanaland Protectorate, 23 June to 1 August 1913
Dressing ‘the Bushman’
Chapter 4 The South West Africa Expeditions, 1920–1921 and 1921–1922
OES beads and beadwork
Skin-work
Tattoos and cut marks
‘Fragrant’ necklaces and tortoiseshell containers
Dress as social structure
PART III DRESSED IN GROUP RELATIONS: THE BUSHMAN DRESS OF LOUIS FOURIE
The artefact collection
The paper archive
The photographs
Chapter 5 Bushman Groups Materialised
The ≠Ao-//ein
The Naron
The Nu-//ein
The Hei-//om
Photographing objects
Photographing people
Chapter 6 Dress Noted
OES beads and beadwork
Skin-work
Tattoos and cut marks
Necklaces/medicines
Dress as group relations
PART IV DRESSED AS TOLD: INTERPRETING DRESS PRACTICES FROM /XAM BUSHMAN NARRATIVES
People of the archive
The archive: Context and scholarly tradition
Signifiers of dress
Analytical concepts
The narratives
Chapter 7 Body Modifications: How to Live Life in a Sometimes-Unpredictable World
‘Acting nicely’ towards the Rain
Dressed in Ssho /oa
Chapter 8 The Embedded Properties of Clothing: Human and Animal Relations
Becoming human, becoming animal
Springbok sorcerers
Chapter 9 Identities in the Making: Being Dressed
The narratives
/Xam dress as social relations
Conclusion A World of Dress
The questions
The results
Some implications
Epilogue
Appendix 1 Note on Nomenclature
Bushmen, San, Basarwa and Khoisan
Different names for the same group of people
Appendix 2 Map of Southern Africa
Bibliography
Unpublished sources
Online sources
Literature
Index
List of Figures Figure I.1 List of people measured and photographed by Dorothea Bleek at Lake Chrissie in present-day Mpumalanga (Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure I.2 A !Kung mother and elderly woman as drawn by Barbara Tyrrell in Tribal Peoples of Southern Africa (Tyrrell 1968, 7). Reprinted by permission of the Campbell Collections of the University of KwaZulu-Natal. Figure II.1 Large aprons made from the entire skin of a whole animal (SAMAE1547 x 2, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.2 U-shaped bags from Gordonia (SAMAE1545 d, e and h, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.3 Animal bag from Gordonia (SAMAE1546 a, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.4 Bangles made of tail hair and glass beads (SAMAE1670, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.5 Tobacco pouch (SAMAE1692, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.6 OES and leather bead string (SAMAE1694, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.7 Neck ornament of an antelope s horn (SAMAE1701, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.8 Two OES bead oblong pendants and two oblong tab ornaments (SAMAE4006 x 2, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.9 Leather tassel apron (SAMAE4005, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.10 U-shaped bag (SAMAE3782, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.11 Animal bag (SAMAE4002, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.12 Table of dress-related words in different languages (BC151.A3.005, 382, Bleek Lloyd Collection). Figure II.13 One of two tortoiseshell containers from Gordonia (SAMAE1707, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.14 Aunis dancing plumes. Kyky Gordonia (MMK 1878, McGregor Museum, Kimberley). Figure II.15 1 Kattia 3 /auni Bushmen, Kyky, Nossop (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection, dbleek132). Figure II.16 Decorated U-shaped bag with flowers (?) and a fringe (SAMAE1545 c, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.17 Sanna? //z Bushwoman Leuslandspan in Motapo, Gordonia (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection, dbleek094). Figure II.18 Abraham? //z man Leuslandspan Motapo (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection, dbleek095). Figure II.19 Abraham? //z Bushman Leuslandspan in Motapo, Gordonia (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection, dbleek098). Figure II.20 Museum catalogue card for item MMK2097, Bushman pendant donated by Miss D Bleek (McGregor Museum, Kimberley). Figure II.21 Ma K ye (?) Masarwa, Kakia Kakia, B.P. (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection, dbleek225). Figure II.22 T retshi (?) Ethnology Bushmen Masarwa (SAM Ethnographic Photograph Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.23 Mok tla (?) Ethnology Bushmen Masarwa (SAM Ethnographic Photograph Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.24 Two little bags probably purchased 8 July 1913, Kakia, Bechuanaland Protectorate (SAMAE1691 a and SAMAE1691 b, Iziko Social History Collection, Iziko Museums of South Africa). Figure II.25 Distribution map of Bushman languages, as drawn by Dorothea Bleek (BC151 Bleek Lloyd Collection E5.1.3). Figure II.26 Dancing Naron women in the former permanent exhibition of the Iziko SAM in Cape Town. Two of the OES bead pendants probably derive from Dorothea Bleek s field trips to SWA between 1920 and 1922. The exhibition was taken down in 2013 (Postcard [probably from the 1980s] provided by the Iziko Museums of South Africa.) Figure II.27 Page from Dorothea Bleek s notebook 11 (BC151.A3.11, 9, Bleek Lloyd Collection). Figure II.28 Page from Dorothea Bleek s notebook 10 (BC151.A3.10, 51, Bleek Lloyd Collection). Figure III.1 Long tassel apron with OES beads (F1292, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.2 Short tassel apron with OES and tsamma seed beads (F1280, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.3 Bangles made of spider s web and glass beads (F1219, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.4 OES bead headband (F1129, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.5 Group of three OES bead tab oblongs (F2636, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.6 Composite necklace with a tortoiseshell container and various medicines (F977, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.7 Tortoiseshell container decorated with hide and glass beads (F2679, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.8 Tortoiseshell container decorated with glass beads (F2680, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.9 Bent wood necklace decorated with incised triangles (F901, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.10 Charm; 2 thick 3 thin, gi-!g ia (A) ki-!nomaba (N), for young men (F1356, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.11 OES bead headband (F1136, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.12 U-shaped apron with OES bead decorations (F959, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.13 U-shaped apron with OES bead border and tassels (F1290, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.14 Group of OES bead head ornaments (F1277, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.15 A broad pear-shaped bag for food gathering (F2387, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.16 A narrow pear-shaped bag for food gathering (F2378, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.17 A leather headband decorated with cowrie shells (F1246, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.18 Tassel ornaments with cowrie and wood beads (F1248, F1247 and F1239, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.19 Head ornament of glass beads and a bird s beak (F1245, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.20 Tortoiseshell containers with beaded leather fringe (F1514 and F1516, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.21 A back apron made of two pieces of skin (F2351, Museum Africa, Johannesburg). Figure III.22 An undecorated front apron (F2407, Museum Afr